Griff

↑↑↑↑ THESE!!!

Yes, but, I'm not sure it applies when the information is there... It just seems to lacking a couple of "if...then..." directives.

I only wish my '97 would feed one 2-3/4" shell from the magazine to the chamber. It don't... so it don't matter whether it'll hold six or only five! I'll continue to use my TTN '97 Riot gun, which, knocking on wood, hasn't failed yet!

The only "filter" I ever use is the State. If I'm headed to MI, I don't really need to see clubs listed in WI or PA... I always leave it "All" for match types, I'm mainly interested in cowboy clubs... and if a club is listed as "Both", they don't show up in either listing for a single type of match hosted. Computers can do all types of amazing things... faster'n humans at nearly every turn... but... they're only as good as the programmer thinks they need to be.

Fixed it!

Give him a copy of the Material Safety Data Sheet. I essentially failed my HS Chemistry class, and after reading it, learning more from Mike V. many, many years ago... I tossed all I had, and any I've been given since. Pyrodex MSDS

If I waited for an invitation to attend a match... I would still be waiting since the 1st match I attended. As a SASS member in good standing, I just assume, I'll be welcome at any match unless it's stated: "for club members only". Which frankly, I've never seen. I will admit, except for local (within 2+/- hours) Texas clubs, I'll generally email or phone to confirm times and dates. As of yet, I haven't been turned away! I've entered matches which I've never attended due to changes in my schedule... a couple of times I even got a refund. Or, got an invite to attend the following year. I intend to shoot at LSFSC as often as I'm able this year... (If I can, I might even take my guns with me to some out of state matches). Won't be any in CA or NY tho'! CA sez my truck is too old to drive on their highways unless I invest thousands, and NY wants to put an ugly sticker on my bumper - clashes with my paint job)!

Ours doesn't either, but like El Sobrante Kid's, they have some drawers in the fastener section with quite a few specialty gun screws.

↑↑↑↑↑↑↑ THIS! (...unless it's some silly local rule).

Commemoratives are like children, to be seen, not heard!

Fixed that for ya.

Yes, the .30-30 is popular in both Winchester & Marlin guns... the .38-55 is probably just as popular, but I suspect the most popular is the .45-70. Most folks believe the .30-30 ain't much use beyond 100 yards, and in most folks hands, that might be correct. A .38-55 will good well beyond that, if one is a good rifleman, but the .45-70 will exceed that easily. One you don't see as much, but a great compromise is either the .40-65 or the .45-60... but most any platform you'll find them in will be a might more spendy. Both Lyman & Marbles tang sights are popular with the Marbles probably being a tad more so... It having click repeatable settings. They look a bit odd to my eye, but I've also seen Soule & Venier rear tang sights on leverguns also...

I like my Colt SAA grips... I don't like bird's head or Thunderer or other grips... But I still wouldn't shoot them.😁

The follower should just come out the receiver end of the magazine when removed from the receiver. The "step" to keep the follower from entering the carrier mortise is forged into the receiver.

I've bought custom hats from D Bar J, an outfit up in Colorado that will remain nameless (because I can't remember it & the hat has been re-blocked with new sweat band and liner in the intervening 35 years...), and factory made hats from Stetson & Resistol. My 2 Stetsons are 52, 34 years old, the Resistol only 17. My Colorado hat, and 2 Stetsons have been cleaned and re-blocked by Manny down at Texas Hatters when he was still around Buda, TX... he's now located in Lockhart. That original Stetson was a 4X hat... barely in the budget for a recently separated squid going to college on the GI Bill. The other Stetson & the sole Resistol were bought as part of my Sheriff's uniform and are 15X and only due to their generous LE discount were in my budget. All have stood the test of time, rain, unplanned meet-ups with dirt, some soft landings due to wind and others quite hard with me inside! (Well, except the Resistol & the D-J, as they've only been worn for uniform wear & cowboy shoots respectively. But, learning to care & clean will extend the life of any hat. Any hat is only as good as the blank it is made from. More beaver content will make for a more durable hat. Forget "X" count, each manufacturer has their own rating system. Stetsons I trust, their 4X from 50 years ago is the same as their 4X today. I"m not exactly sure what % that represents, but it's a noticeably less then the 15X. And even that has a better "feel" than an all wool or partial rabbit fur felt. Good luck with your search, it can be fun... frustrating & rewarding when you get a hat you like and feel good about.

Ah the problems of the suppository shooter... LOL! My loading block:

I generally use #7-½ - 9, whichever I find cheaply enough.

I have a Colt copy made in 1985, (AN date code), the barrel is marked on top with "Jager Italy mdl 1873. 357 M". Along with a "Cat 1466" and a couple of Italian proof marks. It has a makers mark I can't quite make out, nor have I seen anything like it in any reference materials I have access to. It was imported by EMF where I bought it as my wife's CAS gun. It was tuned by Bob Munden in 1986, shortly after I bought it at EOT that year. In the early '90s when I got her a Colt SAA, it was then used by my son as his first CAS gun. The cartouche for the maker (I think), looks like: or with less glare but a little blurry:

And continue rusting after a cleaning that would be sufficient with any other powder. Took three times the amount of effort to stop the rusting in my Colts. I think someone once said, "...don't even use it as fertilizer, as it'll rust your roses!"

Or you do the Ruger handspring conversion, and never worry about a broken handspring again. I've done both my Colt SAAs, & four 2nd Gen 1951s.

Shotgun recipe's are usually very specific, especially wad selection & powder along with hull and shot weight. If you start off using someone's specific formula, and all of a sudden you can't find one component, you can't just substitute another similar component, for you might very well choose unwisely. Generally speaking, powder charge, wad height & shot column should add up to allow a firm, tight crimp, that isn't convex or concave, both of which can leak shot. Once again, I recommend getting a Shotshell reloading manual and learning the basics of what is entailed. Lyman's 6th edition Shotshell Reloading Manual is out & on store shelves as well as on-line retailers.

If your rifle is a 45 Colt, you might just save that brass for the rifle... Your pistols (and pocket book), will love the savings you'll realize by using less powder with the Cowboy45Special brass. All it takes is the addition of a roll crimp/seater die designed for the 45Auto/Gap/AutoRim. Whereas folks are using 5 grains of TiteGroup for the 45 Colt, I'm only using 3.4 for theC45S. From a 4-¾" bbl, 5 grains from a 45 Colt with a 160 RFN yields about 696 fps @ 5,400 psi. Whereas my C45S with the same bullets and 3.4 grains of Titegroup yields 619 fps @ 4715psi. A tad slower, and less felt recoil. That 3.4 is running as close to the edge as I want to... Upping that charge to 3.9 grains give nearly identical performance to 5 grains the larger 45 Colt case. 1.1 grains may not seem like a bunch, but the difference over a pound of powder is 1,400 rounds of 45 Colt, vs. 1,794 @3.9 grains and 2,058 @3.4 grains in the C45S. I'd STRONGLY suggest the Lyman 4th Edition of their Cast Bullet Handbook. But you can find the 3rd Edition on line @: https://archive.org/details/366588877-lyman-cast-bullet-handbook-3rd-edition-1980/page/284/mode/2up?q=.45+Colt

Whatever you settle on, don't be a skinflint and simply buy a pound at a time. If the 21st century has taught us anything, it should be to recognize that the reloading market is highly volatile, subject to supply shortages of various lengths. I haven't looked at APP specifically, but BP or almost every smokeless powder can be stored almost indefinitely if kept in original containers, so a reasonable supply should be at least 16 lbs. Check your local laws and ordinances. I don't shoot as often as a lot of folks, but... so far that's worked for me. Oh, well ignore that 1st sentence... I keep my "working" inventory in a 1 lb jug... that way I only have a maximum of 1 pound of powder out of my storage cabinet at a time, and it's properly marked by maer & product, (if not lot #, which can be affixed with a post-it if you're so inclined, (I'm not, I can just look at the opened 8 lb jug in the cabinet). When I finish off the 1st 8 lb jug I immediately start shopping for its replacement. One last tidbit... the hazmat shipping surcharge is the same whether you buy 1 lb (or 9 oz for you TB fans), or buy 24 lbs. (3 8 lb jugs), hint... hint... All of the above also works as a hedge against future price increases... IIRC recall correctly my two jugs of RedDot have an almost $40 price differential... Lastly, since my early reloading mentor thought it important enough to stress, I'll reiterate it here... You should always work up to your favorite loads whenever you change lots of powder. Buying in bigger quantities will cut down the number of times you verify the performance of you new lot number.

All this fuss over dropping BP... for nigh on 50 years I've used my RCBS Uniflow measure directly into the brass "tray" for the RCBS 10-10 scale. Trickle in a few extra grains to being it up to desired weight for rifle cartridges, or just dump it into pistol cases. After ten drops thru the scale, i skip the scale. No modifications to powder measure necessary, just as assembled at the factory. Since I got my 1st 550B, it runs fine thru the Dillon measure. But, the 1st 10 drops get measured for every tube of primers... seldom are any adjustments needed. I can't hit the chickens @ 200 meters offhand whether the loads are precisely weighed or not, but seated behind crossed sticks, hits on the pigs @ 300 meters are much more consistent w/weighed charges than just dropping volume measured charges, even more important on the turkeys @ 400 meters. Beyond 500 meters you are doing yourself a disservice if you don't weigh individual charges.

I don't use a compression die... but then, I'm loading a bottle-neced cartridge, compression is not your friend.