Griff

Me too, still wish I could wear moccasins with my buckskins! Guess I was just thinking there was an 1890 cutoff...

My truck gun is a Winchester 94 Trapper in .30-30... more range, greater power, and still able to hold on the 16" gongs @ 300yards... Ok, so it only holds six... if'n I need more... I shoulda went with Capt Burt's plan. And exactly what's wrong with a pretty "truck gun"?

It'd be an interesting added rifle for the Classic crowd! (If 38WCF OR 44WCF).

APP will work in brass shotshells. I loaded my first ones with Goex... but didn't get enough compression and they sorta went "poof" instead of "pow". I can't think of an advantage to using nickel cases, except for identification. I keep my ammo in GI cans and simply put a label on the can to identify what's inside.

+1!

I bought a couple of Colt SAA cams from Peacemaker Specialties & had Boomstick Arms install one of my Colt 2nd Gen 1851s.

Congratulations!

Keep your off hand away from the cylinder face or anywhere forward.

Again, #55 is the extractor. Nomenclature is important, it forms the basis understanding the "what" is under discussion. I wouldn't give up on all Rossi's just yet, they have been a well-known "project rifle" from the mid 1980's when I bought my first one, as I was warned ahead of time. Luckily, mine was only rough. It doesn't matter what you buy, some examples are going to have been built on a Friday or a Monday... I've seen folks try using a brand-new Marlin and face similar issues... and the dreaded Marlin-jam is not uncommon. Stick around and you'll soon read of someone complaining about their new Uberti. (Cimarron, Taylor's & others are only importers). And while I detest Henry's, they, at least, seem to do a better job than most at quality control... but there's still an odd one that'll slip thru. And, even when well-fitted, are not quite the equal of a good Marlin or actual Winchester. Another thing you can do to test the extractor is the feed a round thru the top, but instead of just pushing it into the chamber, actually attempt to hook the rim onto the claw of the extractor, then push it down to retract the ejector and feed it into the chamber. 1st, if the ejector doesn't hook the rim, don't push it into the chamber, you've just proved the extractor hook will need to be filed to fit the rim. Lastly, once you get the rifle operational, and if you follow the tuning tips in Steve's DVD, you're going to love the smooth light action.

Measure your new, unfired pistol brass, trim those that need it & you'll more'n likely never need to trim again. Although I load them up in the trimmer, very seldom do they actually need a trim. The only cases (new) I don't bother with are the C45S... since they're going into a 45 Colt chamber, no length worries... and what I've found over the 1K or so cases I've used is that they're fairly consistent from Starline.

No... you can do wet tumbling solo! Definitely less fun than co-ed Jell-O wrestling,

Hoss, it's been some 30 years since I dealt with our club's management, but... I seem to recall that we filed under 501(c)7, Sporting/Recreational clubs. I believe that we still had to file with the State of Texas as a non-profit corporation, and only had to update that one an as-needed basis for notifications of change of officers & Bylaws... but, as I said, it's been 30 years. Memory fades... please don't shoot me if I got this wrong. For some reason, I seem to recall that it also aided in getting our insurance thru the NRA. Which at the time was certainly the best rates we could find. The only complexity there was that a certain percentage of your membership had to be NRA members.

I bought a pair of Competition Electronics Pro-Timer IIIs to put on the first cowboy shoots in North Texas back in 1990. Still works... now if only I had the ambition to practice! Plus, I need to fix one of 'em! My son has the PACT Club Timer III... if only he'd practice! Neither are a inexpensive investment, but... except for the broken wire in one of mine, they seemingly last a long time!

It could also be the extractor slot in the breech. It might not be cut deep enough to allow the extractor claw to fall forward of the rim. With a case fully inserted in the chamber you should be able to see the front edge of the rim in the slot: As you can see the entire extractor relief forward of the rim with the cartridge fully chambered is quite visible.

The ejector is the part at the bottom front of the bolt with the two little "tails" at the bottom. #59 in this schematic, #55 is the extractor (small box in the upper left). Although this schematic is of the Winchester, the Rossi is close in nearly all details.

But, since you know to what I refer, the same inference can be made, no?

Wouldn't "old school" be a bunch of guys sitting around with ink, pens and paper?

45 Colt sizer, and a 45ACP Roll Crimp seater/crimp die on my 550C.

I'd see if a local pard already had a collet puller and would be willing to lend it. If not, I'd consider buying one. I've pulled down around 500 .30-06 rounds (milsurp) that was from WWII and suffered from improper storage. Divided among the 3 of us that purchased the 3 GI cans of ammo from a garage sale, it wasn't too onerous... but we neither reused the bullets nor the powder, I used my kinetic puller. Since then, I've pulled around 50 max... But, it was far quicker to use a collet puller. Wished I had the collet puller for the 500! I've never had a primer go off depriming using either a universal decapping die or regular decap/sizing die.

I wouldn't have given you the "beep"... TO shouldn't start a shooter in a faulted position. But, should the starting line read: "Ma'am, if you just..." then the position should be: "Hat in hands."

You forgot wads... and that estimate is pretty close to my experience, unless you get them on sale, (especially for LNLR Winchesters with their rebate). If ever given again...

Kinda rude to laugh at your misfortune... but, I could relate! My wife's greatest complaint was the lack of a garage, due to my tools and projects! It'd probably be okay if I could keep it to one project at a time! She'd have really hated it now... tough to even walk thru!

It belongs with your .22 collection. Or... your lever collection that consists of any lever action ever made. So you have many more to collect! Start with a Volcanic... end up with the S&W 1854... and everything in between!

Two things not mentioned... 1: The lower the # the faster the burn rate. 2: The numbers (or position) of a powder on the chart bears no relationship as the difference in burn rates. IOW, the difference in burn rate between each powder is neither consistent, nor can be predicted without more precise information. Regardless of their position on the chart, two powders next to each cannot be depended on to provide any confidence in their suitability to use. Lastly, reloading manuals are your friends... The Hodgdon site is quite convenient, but it isn't the "be all or end all" of reloading data. Their new version lacks quite a number of cast specific load data. I'm much more reliant on Lyman's Cast Bullet Reloading Handbooks; IME, you simply CANNOT have too many reloading manuals.

Sad to hear this Billy. Goody was of the very few shooters still out at Lone Star when I returned from my brief foray into mounted shooting. His humor, fellowship and knowledge of cowboy action shooting, guns thereof and willingness to share that will be sorely missed. RIP.