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Garrison Joe, SASS #60708

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Everything posted by Garrison Joe, SASS #60708

  1. And what was accuracy after 50 rounds fired without cleaning? And how did that compare to beginning of test? See, I care only about the effects on getting lead onto targets. I care much less how the bore condition ends up. And little to none about any burning off the plastic coating on the base. good luck, GJ
  2. This problem HAS to be FIXED at the time you are loading ammo. You never want to have this happen in a match you are trying to do well in. Examine all cases when loading to remove any with splits. The split weakens the ability of the case to hold the bullet at it's intended position, then the magazine spring pressure and recoil and momentum of rounds moving within magazine and when popping onto carrier shove the bullet farther down into the case. In your picture, the bullet was so weakly held it collapsed back flush with the case mouth. Cases with bigger splits (more than 1/8" long) will usually ring with a distinctive tinny bell sound if you shake then in a handful of other cases. Just have to find the one or two that are split, then. Check your crimp tightness, which is what prevents bullet collapsing into case. My test is to hold a loaded round in my strong hand, bullet nose sticking out between thumb and forefinger. Find a solid wood frame or piece of loading bench to press against. Push bullet tip hard against the wood. If bullet does not collapse into case by any amount, you have a solid crimp. Normally, you do not want to find that you can easily twist (rotate) the bullet in the case mouth, either. Check your crimp to make sure it is not bulging the case. Although a bulge at crimp is not going to cause a collapsed-bullet-in-case, it can cause a jam when chambering. Watch out for these too while loading. A loaded round gauge (aka a chamber checker, more correctly a round-will-chamber checker) will tell you if any crimping has pushed the case mouth into the band above the crimp location, and thus bulged the case right below the crimp. Watch for shortened cases that the crimp ring on your seater/crimper die does not reach. Some pards trim back cases when they get a small mouth crack. If you end up with that shortened case, your dies will not put a proper crimp on the bullet. And, you can see a collapsed-bullet-in-case jam. Load properly, so that rounds are suitable to feed in a tubular magazine. then you won't have this problem on the line. There are times, though, that carrying a screw knife or a small screwdriver, will save your bacon. I've not removed a collapsed-bullet fault from my guns in 20+ years of shooting lever guns, though. good luck, GJ
  3. Leather wraps made by Palo Verde and Kirkpatrick. Satisfied with both. The Palo Verde wrap fills more of the lever and looks more finished. The Kirkpatrick is less expensive and quite easy to install. good luck, GJ
  4. Nope, wrong assumption. Use the Win 97 instructions. good luck, GJ
  5. And a smooth smith, too, I would imagine. When the gun was plated, it most likely had some buffing done, so the plate would be as shiny as possible. Hope most of the markings survived that. Deplating by electrolysis is going to be the best approach to get back to steel that will take future finish well. Most likely there is a base coat of copper next to the steel. Since there seem to be few platers among the browns and salmon, you probably are headed for shipping that piece to the lower 48, so it might as well go to a good shop. good luck, GJ
  6. Fords Custom Gun Refinishing is a very good shop, handling all sorts of plating. I'm sure they would be able to strip the gun cleanly, and even put a nice blue back on. https://fordsguns.com/ good luck, GJ
  7. That's still a mighty big assumption. Seeing as how you will be using this in light pressure, no-accuracy-required cowboy loads, you may never notice the difference and MAY never have a problem. However, I find you have given no proof that you do indeed know exactly what powders are mixed together in that can. You weren't there to see it, you didn't get word from the person who mixed them. Nothing. It does LOOK in the picture provided like it COULD be old and new version Clays. But it could be several other gray flake shotgun powders just as easily. The version made in Canada has a different density and slightly different power levels at the same weight of powder, from most folks experience. Just the density differences between old and new means you will not get a uniform weight thrown from a powder measure. That is enough to make me uncomfortable using the mix. And, yes, I'm pretty sure Smokin D passed back in the summer. good luck, GJ
  8. I don't like how buckhorn sights snag things, and how the horns block my vision when acquiring the next target in a horizontal row. OFF the horns come, making a flat sight. The only precise way to shoot the buckhorn is to put bead down in the bottom of V. Anything else is SO dependent upon getting a consistent picture. For a 10 yard cowboy match shot, it really doesn't matter, though. good luck, GJ
  9. If the primer was live, and case was empty of a primer, that case has a very loose primer pocket. Only high percentage cause of this problem. Could have been caused by a high-pressure discharge in the case the last time it was fired - as in, a double charge. I've seen a double charge open the primer pocket so far that a primer could rattle around in the pocket. good luck, GJ
  10. For sure. The calculator will tell you that would be about 20 Brinnell or harder. At cowboy ammo pressures, I'd expect some heavy leading even if the bullet fits the grooves (from gas cutting)
  11. That's the reason for getting and using an Art Pencil set to get a rough hardness of the lead you scrounge. I agree, cores from jacketed bullets are normally pretty soft, about 6 Brinnell. As bullet makers move in current times toward a more tough hi-performance jacketed bullet, though, the core alloy can be harder. When a mix of ammo types has been used in a bay, you don't know until you test it how hard that scrap lead is. But, it's better to find out by testing when you melt 50 pounds down in a clean-up step, than to just dump range scrap into your casting pot and try to make it cast good bullets by estimating how much hardening it needs. Now, if you can afford a Cabine Tree hardness tester or even a Lee model, that would be even better. But, then again, making cowboy match bullets is not a very demanding process. In fact, you could get away with casting a bullet or two from straight range pickup, then add in enough linotype to get to the point where you can't scratch the surface with a thumbnail (which is about 10 Brinnel). good luck, GJ
  12. The rebated cylinder shows me it has to be a .44 gun. (It's Wales, BTW.) good luck, GJ
  13. Trying to figure if you have just a mixture of two versions of Clays, and not anything else in there, would be a Fools Errand. Hodgdons, I am willing to bet, will not extend their blessing to such a thing. Don't risk damaging a gun over a mistake by another shooter that costs you maybe $10 to throw out. Maybe you have figured out what happened. Maybe you haven't. good luck, GJ PS - I had two bottles of powder on a loading bench just a few weeks ago. Poured half a coffee cup of one powder, after scooping 10 accuracy test loads out of it, back into the closest container, when I realized that was the wrong one of the two. That third of a pound in the contaminated bottle was PROMPTLY poured out on the lawn. Where a mixed powder will do me no harm. No more multiple bottles on the bench. Even if I am making 10 types of test loads.
  14. What target did he have a so-called "clear miss" on? If it was on a standing target, then it would still be standing, wouldn't it?. If it was to engage the fallen target which was down when the string began or even from wind or "collateral hits" on neighboring targets, then he does not have to even come close to the target to engage it. And thus earn the hit because target is down. The rules for Knockdowns ARE A LITTLE DIFFERENT than for stationary targets. A stationary target never gets a hit called when it is missed. A knockdown that falls gets a hit with any sort of engagement (attempt to fire). good luck, GJ
  15. A shotgun target being down when the shooter starts the shotgun string means it just has to have a shot safely fired to "engage" the target. Whether the shooter fired EXACTLY where it was before it fell, or off to the side by an inch, or off to the side by a mile, it doesn't matter. If it was a safe shot, it's OK, otherwise apply the penalty that declared it unsafe. 6 rounds fired, 6 targets down. Like Hoss said, No Call. good luck, GJ
  16. Use that calculator - it's pretty accurate and easy after you try a couple of alloy mixes. Umm, there's a lot of variance in what is dug out of ranges, and it depends upon what type of ammo has been shot there. Range lead that is mostly cast bullets will have significant antimony content. I use 97% lead, 2.5%% antimony, and 0.5% tin in the calculator for "cowboy" scrap bullets. The antimony comes from folks shooting wheel weight scrap, or commercial bullets, almost exclusively. A .22 range will be about 99.5% lead, 0.5% tin. Or about that same composition on a range that is all jacketed bullet use. I agree with your monotype composition, though. True monotype will be 19% antimony, 9% tin and rest lead. Monotype and cowboy range lead mix, using the calculator, will be: 0.25 pounds monotype (4 ounces) 9.75 pounds range lead from cowboy ranges. Which makes a total of 10 pounds Calculates to 12.6 Brinnell hardness, which is the hardness of good old-fashioned wheel weights. I'd suggest you learn to use the calculator, as you always find your scrap lead never quite matches the "average" of what is in the calculator to start with. So, I leave the "linotype" recipe for you to calculate. It will take a lot more of monotype than making 12 Brinnell wheel weight alloy. And, my "target" for good cowboy bullets (to be shot at 1000 FPS or less) is to make them at 9 Brinnell hardness. Which is very close to what comes off the cowboy ranges, with perhaps a little (0.5%) tin added to make the bullets cast better. Practically speaking, I've not found a need for monotype. I have to add only a little linotype to range scrap or wheel weights even to make high speed rifle bullets (16 brinnell, heat treatable to 30 brinnell) good luck, GJ PS - get a set of "ART PENCILS" (drawing pencils) and learn how to use them for testing alloy hardness. $20 well spent. The 10 different hardness levels in the pencil set can be read as the hardness of the lead alloy that a particular pencil just barely will scratch.
  17. Raises chamber pressure and powder burns cleaner. Makes only a little difference overall, though. Mainly a few more stages can go by before fellow shooters start asking "How often do you CLEAN that rifle?"
  18. I get about 15 reloads from .45 Colt brass (Starline or Winchester) with cowboy match loads, and never annealing the mouth. Brass will be a small expense when cowboy shooting, unless you never get to pick it up. good luck, GJ
  19. Uberti has been making only "standard" groove diameter barrels for .45 Colt rifles at 0.452" for YEARS. Won't have to slug this unless it's 20 years or more old. A 250 grain bullet usually starts to show more stability and accuracy past 100 yards. Within 100 yards, any weight works well. I shoot a 200 grain .452 bullet in mine, and can keep a 2" group at 100 yards with good quality reloads, and easily on SASS targets at 200-250 yards. good luck, GJ
  20. Hollywood seemed to be able to get lots of 25 pound wooden kegs of powder in the 50s and 60s. Always marked XXX, too.
  21. There'll be more steel in the OP's 32-20 barrel than in your .38-40 barrel..... good luck, GJ
  22. Randy Redman of Omak Washington both makes and installs 32-20 liners in Marlins. Find his pricing here: https://redmansrifling.com/gun-barrel-relining/ Highly renowned, by the way. GJ
  23. Yep. Clean the firing pin channel where you are in there! It's almost that bad, most likely. good luck, GJ
  24. Yep, some folks have, in the past and even now, cast target bullets from zinc. That kind of mystery metal needs to be fished out, exactly as you are doing. good luck, GJ
  25. I prefer a crimp into the BAND just above that lube groove, as it holds the bullet more securely and allows tight crimps. A soft alloy for the bullet assists with turning the mouth into the band without bulging out the case just below the crimp. But, some bullets just are not designed with the crimp groove where you want them. Molds I have designed intentionally omit a crimp groove, so that I can make the cartridge length what I want more easily. And since I keep hardness down to about 8 or 9 Brinnell to prevent leading and keep cost low, making a slug that soft and that flexible in it's crimp location is under my control. good luck, GJ
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