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Garrison Joe, SASS #60708

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Everything posted by Garrison Joe, SASS #60708

  1. If you can't find copper scouring pads, go to a full-line hardware store and buy some 00 (or so) bronze wool. It will look about like steel wool, but it is yellow/brown in color. Perfectly safe in for scrubbing any steel - even removing rust from a blued gun when used with a good rust-breaking oil like Kroil or PB Blaster. good luck, GJ
  2. All my '73 rifles have the rear sight "buckhorn ears" filed down to be a flat open sight. Better view when moving to next target in a sweep. Most have a replacement bead that is slightly larger than factory. The huge ones are not any faster for me, and when I need to take a 60+ yard shot, the huge beads cover up a lot of a standard target. The rage 10 or 15 years ago was a tang mounted peep sight. Those have fallen into much less favor now. good luck, GJ
  3. Nope. Seemed like a great product. I like mine a lot. Maybe not a lot of folks reloading revolver cartridges any more? Bean counters do strange things to a company's product line sometimes. good luck, GJ
  4. On a straight-wall cartridge, you have to lower the powder-thru-expander die, not the sizer, to make a larger mouth bell for easier seating. The minimal amount I find works well is if I can just set the base of the slug into the mouth enough to cover the bottom band on the bullet. Too much overworks the brass, too little leads to shaving lead fingernails off the bullets as you seat them. good luck, GJ
  5. You can usually extend the decapping stem quite a bit, and probably can decap with the sizer body only coming 1/3 of the way down the case. But I've not tried to do that with a Dillon die. I bought the 2-sizer CARBIDE-rings Redding die when they were making them 8 years ago or so and use that to neck size the top third and "body" size the lower 2/3 while decapping at the same time. Works a charm. good luck, GJ
  6. 1 - the "centering" movement of the bolt as it approaches the chamber is quite normal. Usually with a round being fed, the round helps with that centering. With no round feeding, the nose of the extractor sliding into the extractor cut in the barrel face makes the bolt center up. It's both normal and necessary, since there is very little guidance of the nose of the bolt provided by the rather floppy support of either the FPE or the the fit of the rear of bolt into the frame. 2- the machining cuts showing in the top of the frame are also very normal. They would not interfere with a good firing pin strike. 3 - although a picture taken of rear of the frame can be deceiving, there appears to be a lot of wear on the frame, with a burr being raised at the bottom and wear at the top actually coming all the way out to the outside surface of the frame. Compare this to your 357 frame..... I'll second LEP's conclusion. This gun will need a serious repair to the frame or FP assembly that would be best handled by a gunsmith with good tooling and measurement skills. good luck, GJ
  7. Nice fix! One I have recommended to folks as well! GJ
  8. Yeah, I make sporting clays loads with Perfect Pattern, using about 16.4 grains (range is on the powder bottle) with 1 ounce of shot. In a Remington Gun Club or STS design hull with a Nobel Sport 688 or a Win 209 primer, that makes an nice 1200 FPS clay target load. Breaks birds well enough I use it in registered matches. "A little less fluffy than Clays" --- well, that is because Perfect Pattern is just about the densest, flattened ball shotgun powder made! Comparing it to any of the flake powders it will always be be a lot less fluffy. And due to the 30-40% nitroglycerin content of Perfect Pattern (or TiteGroup as well), leaving that powder in a polystyrene powder hopper for several days will eat up the hopper. I had one soften so badly it collapsed like a tired sock that lost it's elastic. Polystyrene has a faint smell of vomit to my nose, RCBS and Hornady use it in their loaders. MEC uses a polyethylene bottle and not a problem there if you don't empty the powder hopper. For cowboy loads I am currently using Clay Dot, as I stocked up WELL on that at the beginning of the panic. good luck, GJ
  9. Another thing that happens with a 73 is that folks do not keep a little grease on the firing pin extension, and the soft metal of the frame egg-shapes a little from the impact of the hammer on the (usually never square to the hammer) end of the FPE. Can take 20,000 rounds to get damage, but if the end of the FPE has much up and down play with the action nearly closed, could be a problem there. That egg-shaping allows the FPE to absorb too much of the hammer strike, and sends it into the frame instead of the FP. Usually that is a consistent FTF kind of problem, though. good luck, GJ
  10. That crack and divot on the bolt face is not normal. You might try to find out if that allows the lower section of the bolt to move slightly - depending on how deep and where the crack runs to inside the bolt, there could be some binding the FP travel. That bolt would probably be replaced if a good gunsmith had it in their hands. A toggle gun has a pretty small bolt, and it takes close to chamber pressure every shot. You indeed have a very light firing pin indent on that round in the picture. Is the lever safety still operational within the action? Are you running the gun "podium position" fast? The picture of the closed lever does not show whether the front boss of the lever loop is touching the lower tang, due to shadows cast onto the background rag. Check that the lever is able to close far enough to ALWAYS disengage the lever/trigger safety when you close the action. You could have a slight bend in the lever that would let you get good FP strikes with lever really pulled up hard, but not if the lever is being run at speed. Or you could be tripping the trigger before getting action closed or right when you are beginning to open it. If the FTF only occurs when running at match speed, and you have been trying to shoot faster recently, lots of pards have that particular problem and have to learn to keep a hundred milliseconds between trigger pulls and the action motions. good luck, GJ
  11. Well, then, let's see what the MAXIMUM headspace for the .45 Colt is in the SAAMI manufacturer's specs for a new gun. https://saami.org/wp-content/uploads/2023/02/SAAMI-Z299.3-2022-Centerfire-Pistol-Revolver-Approved-12-13-2022.pdf Looking on page 50 of the latest. Oh, the max headspace allowed in a new gun to meet standards is 0.074" measured by including the rim. So, a 0.060" rim taken away from the headspace of 0.074" leaves a permissible bolt face to case gap of 0.014". Seems that gun you are so worried about, after several years of use, is still within the standards for a new firearm. Why are you attempting to scare people with your posts? But, back to the OPs real concerns, it would take a pretty large headspace problem to be the root cause of Failure to Fire, with the fairly large firing pin protrusion that is common on the Uberti rifles. He probably needs to look more at the light strikes and what is causing them. good luck, GJ
  12. For shooting our 4K-8K psi loads from a very tough .45 Colt case, there's "no show, nothing to see here." There's a lot of safe room in that cartridge specification. good luck, GJ
  13. Trail Boss may or may not be made in the future. It was made by ADI (or whatever that company is now) in Australia. Rather a difficult powder to make, and expensive, and other than Cowboy and 300 Blackout shooters, there is not a lot of demand to restart production after both manufacturing and environmental law problems came up. V V could not sell enough Tin Star to make it worthwhile. Another Cowboy niche powder. Forget it. Trying to find an elusive Swiss made smokeless right now? Fugget-about-it. If you want a European made powder, contact Scarlet and ask about her line of imported powders, There are 20 or so powders made that make a nice Cowboy load. Some (as explained above) can still be bought. With possible supply shortages continuing into the future, I'd advise picking one of the common "fast pistol" or even a "12 gauge shotgun" powder and buying to build a stockpile to carry you forward for a while. This is not the time to "try to be different." good luck, GJ
  14. Also use an eyeball and feel test to compare how fast the hammer falls on your .357 rifle and your .45 Colt. If the 45 is a lot slower, then you don't have enough spring force (or have too much drag on the hammer) to get a good hammer fall. Even after putting a new spring in. GJ
  15. The little chunk missing from the barrel at the extractor cut is not causing you failure-to-fire problems. That breaks out sometimes because the extractor cut is made so the very back edge is paper thin, and any hard contact of the extractor nose and the ramp cut can cause that chip. It could be polished with a small dremel cutter or polishing tip to take the rough edge off if it bothers you. You do NOT need a new barrel because of that. Can you take a picture of the rear of a couple of cases showing the primer on those FTF rounds. That will give a sense of how much firing pin hit you are getting. Was the firing pin broken into two pieces or is the tip broken off and missing? (Sounds like you replaced the FP, but was it "solid" and appeared undamaged when you replaced it?) Have you cleaned the FP channel in the bolt really well with a solvent and a pipe cleaner? Crud builds up in there and keeps the FP (even a new one) from going full forward.. Have you had an Out Of Battery firing about the time you noted the beginning of FTF problems? That could indicate a bent lever happened due to the OOB - that is very common, and it usually opens up headspace a little. Take a picture of the wrist of the action where the lever fits up against the lower tang to show us how much if any gap remains when you hold the action closed. Since you have a 357 lever, can you take that out and lay it over the lever of your problem gun and see if the noses (where link pin installs) of the levers and the hand loop of the levers line up between the two? Ideally, the lever should be closing tightly against the lower tang. You wrote: That description is not very meaningful. Do you mean there is some forward and rearward movement of the bolt when action is closed, or do you mean side to side movement? Slight side to side movement is pretty common. Forward and back could be a sign of some wear in links or lever or pins. Several parts makers offer an extended length firing pin. That would be probably the cheapest replacement part which you might try to see if you have too short a FP protrusion. The SLIXsprings firing pin is one of those that come "a little longer" than factory spec. Long Hunter Supply as them in stock. Some comparisons with one of my Uberti 73s that run .45 Colt without ANY FTF problems. The headspace between a chambered case head and the bolt face, with action closed, measures 0.014". Feeler gauge method. Firing just a primer in a case also sets the primer back about 0.012" as another rough way to check headspace. It's a few years old and has typical wear and no OOB occurrences. That amount of headspace is no where near enough to cause FTF due to light strikes even with the factory firing pin. David Chicone's reference book, Gunsmithing Guns of the Old West, calls out a head space of 0.006" for a new (Winchester-made) gun or when rebuilding a bolt. Ubertis I would expect to be about the same. The firing pin protrusion can be checked roughly without taking the gun apart, too. Open the action half way. Keep the bolt from moving forward with a pin punch or similar tool held against the bolt face. Push firmly on the firing pin extension, and the FP will travel it's full stroke forward. Comparing that protrusion to the cartridge support tab (which should be about 0.065" forward of the bolt face), should let you see if you have 10, 20 30, or 40 thousandths. 30 thousandths works real well in my guns. For the most part, it sounds like you have been throwing parts at the gun before finding out what the problem is. I'd suggest more inspection, measuring, checking before you buy any more parts. If you can't do that, then letting an experienced smith take it over is going to be the fastest way to make this right. good luck, GJ
  16. Yes, as EOT matured at FR, we evolved to having our Boy Scouts hustling after every shooter's turn. Took more work with the boys keeping them moving quickly, but more shooters were satisfied by getting their own brass back. Only a really slow posse would be warned about "being slow" and perhaps not have brass picked immediately. And that freed the award ceremony from having to do a brass auction, too. Just so many things to recommend getting the brass back immediately. That does take partitioning the bays with berms to allow travel forward of the firing line, of course. good luck, GJ
  17. EOT was "lost brass" when held at Founders Ranch too. At least for the cowboy match part. Collected between posses by Boy Scouts and 4H too. good luck, GJ
  18. Take off the forearm and look on the barrel where the forearm covers it up. That's a common place for Uberti's. Never seen any marked on the receiver. good luck, GJ
  19. The main trick for shooting cast bullets in a 6.5 Swede with good accuracy is to keep the muzzle velocity close to 1600 FPS. It's got a very fast twist rate designed for long-for-caliber jacketed bullets. I accuracy load to 1600 FPS with a White Label XLOX lube applied with a Lyman 450, and yes, gas checks applied while sizing. Bullets often give poor results down at 1400 FPS or so. And get to stripping out of the rifling at much faster than 1700 FPS unless really hard cast. I've not gotten good accuracy even with careful loading, when using Unique. Can't find much load data with Unique, but I'd guess 11.5 grains would get you 1600 FPS. That checks with my QuickLoad interior ballistics calculator. QuickLoad says to get 1400 FPS would take 9 grains of Unique, but you may not like it's accuracy. My practical experience is to use AA 5744 or SR 4759 (of course, that powder has not been made for 15 years). 16 grains of 5744 and the Lyman 140 grain 266469 bullet cast to about 16 Brinnell hardness has given me a load that shoots under 1 1/2 inches at 100 yards. Yes, neck sizing only will work very well with low pressure cast bullet loads! Stripper clips were VERY available 5-10 years ago when the large dump of Swedish Mausers into the US occurred. Here's one vendor on Amazon that has clips I have used successfully: https://www.amazon.com/STRIPPER-SWEDISH-MAUSER-Northridge-International/dp/B01J6SIKMG 30-06 clips just don't seem to be a nice fit on the 6.5 Swede case rim. So, the Swede is a great rifle, but not a gun that is easy to shoot as a low speed plinker. Keep speeds up around 1600 FPS and you can get great results with some work. Of course, accuracy when shooting cast bullets varies between rifles, lubes, loading techniques, etc. Take all these suggestions with a "grain of flux". good luck, GJ
  20. OP is trying to find handgun loads. Not shotshell. There's lots of data now available for that. good luck, GJ
  21. You wanting to make cowboy (gallery) loads, or full-power factory type loads? It's made of about the same ingredients and technology and plant as TiteGroup, so it will PROBABLY make good cowboy loads with a little less charge weight than TiteGroup. Since it may be years before Hodgdon decides to publish more cowboy level load data, like most powders used for our sport, you are kind of on your own. Start what you think is low level, take a squib rod and go out to the range and do the testing. If you are thinking about full-power loads, I would CERTAINLY call the Hodgdon tech support line and ask for any data they may already have. They will either help you work something up, or they may "take notes" that you would like to see some data in the future and perhaps put it on the "to be tested" list. My guess - They will be somewhat reluctant to test it as a handgun powder when they designed it to be a shotgun powder, but they have done the "expansion of suitability" testing the other way with TiteGroup in the last year (from handgun to shotgun). They will probably NEVER test a Cowboy 45 Special loading. But you probably realize that. I have used it in tons of sporting clays shotshell loads (12 gauge 1 ounce) for the last 2 years where it does perform very well - about a match to Red Dot or slightly faster. If all this sounds like too much hassle, then buy some TiteGroup. It's widely available, and lots of us have shot TiteGroup in cowboy loads for years. good luck, GJ
  22. From the pictures Willie took, I would think he installed TWO spring pins, one to help hold the top half in place, and one to act as a guide rod in the lower half. I see two spring pins in his. I think the way the Russians built them was with just the extractor rod (bottom) and one guide rod at the top. good luck, GJ
  23. Mine is a Spartan variation of the mp-220. It only has the top and bottom (large) extractor rods. Not two small and the large bottom rod. So, perhaps that will make a difference in how the work gets done. good luck, GJ
  24. Yes, that model responds well to the modification. I can't guarantee that a single rod supports the remainder without it twisting, not having done one of those jobs. So Lefty should take a close look at the main extractor rod to see how it resists rotation as it opens. A brief inspection of mine shows the extractor rod is round and not keyed in any manner. So it may be necessary to move the upper thin rod down to a convenient spot closer to the main rod. My gun was modified by a smith years ago and all that he did was to whittle away the upper ears of the extractor so that the shell is only touched by extractor from mid point (between the barrels) down and around to straight down. 90 degrees of contact. Has worked wonderfully for me and a previous shooter too. good luck, GJ
  25. The chemistry of the process more correctly is that cotton (or wood pulp) fibers are nitrated to make nitrocellulose. The old name of NC was gun cotton, which is where someone may have confused the two. That nitration is done in China (major manufacturer), Russia and India, in large part. None of which are really wanting to ship the nitrocellulose to us currently. It's the powder maker who then buys bulk nitrocellulose to manufacture smokeless powder by adding extra ingredients then shaping and drying and packing. So, it's not really a shortage of cotton. It's due to lack of the US having nitration facilities anymore - except for the Radford Army Ordinance plant. Which is being modernized and expanded by BAE Systems. You can read a brief on it here: https://www.baesystems.com/en-us/feature/radford-moves-to-commissioning-phase-of-a-new-nitrocellulose-facility And the markets not wanting/able to ship us bulk nitrocellulose. good luck, GJ
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