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Garrison Joe, SASS #60708

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Everything posted by Garrison Joe, SASS #60708

  1. Yes you did. And, consider that on a posse of 15 folks, 14 are spending their time watching (waiting for) one person to repair something. Remember your manners, and put others on as important a basis as your own interests. If they had to pick up 14 times as much brass for you as for other shooters throwing down only 10+4, because you shot a gatling gun, they would not really want to do that, either. We have already covered that the RULES allow repair on the line done safely, if done with tools you brought with you. Now it's up to the shooter to execute their shooting well and gracefully. good luck, GJ
  2. The REAL effective way to get a clean match is to maintain your guns with serious intent and knowledge, and load (or buy) top quality ammo. No one should be holding up their posse tinkering with a firearm more than about twice as long as the total times most folks are shooting, if they want to stay on the good side of the rest of the posse. Do the rules allow a lengthy on-the-line delay? Yes. But common courtesy does not. Folks come to shoot, not so much to see someone repair a gun. good luck, GJ
  3. Just about the most commonly covered powder for handgun reloading. Must be looking at the wrong manuals or under cartridges not well suited to a medium burn rate handgun powder. Unique is distributed by Alliant. If you are looking at the Hodgdon's loading data site or pamphlets, good luck. GJ
  4. "Patent drawings of revolver innovations ordered by date of patent granting, from 1769 to 1918" Not as useful for shooters as full exploded isometric drawings of complete firearms, but at least most of the new technology of each innovation can be seen. Cool.
  5. Most cast bullet loads are going to be low enough pressure to still work fine even in a low serial number Springfield. 13 grains of Red Dot and a 150 to 180 grain cast bullet will be a very low pressure load, and pretty accurate for at least a 100 yard target, and if the barrel is in good shape, 200 yards. I have a 1918 made 1903 model, which is in the serial numbers above the "brittle heat treat" problem, that I shoot with much warmer cast bullet loads than that 13 grain load. I'd bet that an email to the CMP organization down in Anniston AL would get you a lot of information about the limits of your particular gun. Provide them the serial number and and the numbers and markings off the receiver and barrel. The info cited just above from the CMP is the best case recommendation for the 1903 receivers that are not in the brittle receiver heat treat group. There are lower pressure limits for the "possibly brittle" guns. good luck, GJ
  6. Yes, those are all characteristics of a BP Iver Johnson top break. I've got two....and if they get shot, it's only with BP. They both are slightly loose from previous owners doing just what your previous owner did - shot them with light smokeless loads. Smokeless has a much different pressure curve than does BP - spikes up high and fast. good luck, GJ
  7. They certainly are less "adventuresome" than they used to be, when half the pistols they sold were single actions. You will have to call them. They have some Policies on cylinder dimensions, and they may just say, "What you were sold is within specs" GJ
  8. You need to find FIRST if the top break is modern enough to handle smokeless. Many were built in the BP era and they quickly shoot loose even with light smokeless. Tell us what you have for an iron. Be aware, we might just have to recommend BP or APP if the gun is old. GJ
  9. You will be able to start out using typical trap shotshells - say 1 1/8 ounce loads at 1145 FPS or so. After a short while, you will find that hardly no one shoots that heavy a load in SASS. A Winchester Low Noise Low Recoil load is plenty as a light commercial load. Most folks in SASS reload shells and cartridges. If you think of SASS games as R&D for really light loads with either smokeless or black powder, you won't be far off. welcome, and good luck, GJ
  10. PLEASE do not use ANY .45 auto load data at higher pressure levels in .45 auto OR Cowboy 45 Special cases that are going to be shot in single action revolvers! Many of those guns cannot handle 20,000 PSI safely. Neither Hodgdon nor Alliant have published cowboy match level loads for the .45 Auto Rim, AFAIK. Nor for the Cowboy .45 Special, or for .45 auto cases used in a few single action revolvers that have a rimless cylinder. Now, from several years of cowboy load "wildcatting" with the Cowboy 45 Special, I can tell you about 3.9 to 4.2 grains of either Red Dot or Clays with 200 grain cast bullets will give you a pretty safe load in the Cowboy 45 Special case such that it makes about 800 FPS. I do not load 45 Auto Rim, but that probably could use the same range to make consistent loads - but that is all up to you. GJ
  11. Bullseye, Red Dot, Clay Dot, WST, 700-X, many others. Depends upon what you can find to buy, more important than "one powder would be perfect for everything". But TiteGroup is commonly available (more than most) and as you know, will work for all of them. And somewhat cheaper since it uses so much nitroglycerin in it (cheaper than all nitrocellulose content). Don't change unless you have a REAL GOOD reason. good luck, GJ
  12. Yeah, I dislike it strongly when shooters leave that non-standard small pocket brass on a range. GJ
  13. I run the S&B cases through a Dillon primer pocket swager, and they load forever after that without problems. good luck, GJ
  14. Or order a Ruger Bearcat mainspring seat from one of the parts supply houses....I found some in stock today at Numrich. Advantage of the Bearcat seat is it has a divot cut into the top surface to allow inserting a compressed-spring retention pin when you disassemble. GJ
  15. Be aware of the internal lock in grips. Ruger has quit providing parts for the hammer assembly for those, no keys for the lock available any more, so if you want to remove and tune the guns, you are in for some work. Take off the grips to make sure neither gun contains the discontinued and unsupported locks! GJ
  16. Shooter could have reloaded 2 new rounds and shot them at the still standing KD target in the hopes of reducing his miss-count to zero. GJ
  17. I'd probably use a hard stone and just lightly polish the bolt nose sides and corners at the A position in diagram above. Just enough to make sure you have any minute burr removed, and enough to just remove the blueing or any manufacturing defect in the surface. If no stone, get some 600 grit sandpaper and hold it tightly over a small piece of flat hardwood (oak or walnut are fine), and polish the surface with that. good luck, GJ
  18. As a lube - no. Cleaner - pretty good stuff. Like some others, I do not use liquid lubes on firearms. Too easy to flow off, or penetrate into wood and soften it. Mobil 1 syn grease or even better (clear) Battle Borne syn grease, which is thicker yet and runs fine on 1911, 97, single action cylinder base pins, even M1 and M1A rifles. The Battle Borne is about all I use except a little Rem Oil for fire control parts inside of actions. good luck, GJ
  19. Well, trade for a mold that is close to 500 grains. You cannot alloy enough to change the weight by more than about 10 grains lighter, and the tin will cost you a bunch! Some mold mechanics are able to mill the thickness of a base-pour mold to cut the mold down to a lighter weight. If you are going to leave it as a plain base bullet, then milling to remove the current base and the lowest grease groove would take quite a bit of weight off. Not a job for a home hobbyist in most cases, as the sprue plate mounting screw hole has to be deepened. And make sure that does not cut into the block's handle mounting slots. good luck, GJ
  20. Oh, well that's a different horse than the OP rode in on. Let's check what moly CAN do. It is a fine molybdenium sulfide powder that has natural lubricating capability. It does work well om smokeless powder loads to prevent lead alloy "leading" in the barrel with cast bullets, and prevent copper fouling with jacketed bullets. Is lead fouling what is in the barrel when shooting Black Powder? Nope. That fouling is the residue from the black powder combustion/explosion in the barrel. The charcoal, sulfur, potassium nitrate mixture only gets to a partially completed state, leaving leftover lube, unburnt carbon, sulfur, carbonates, nitrates and sulfates in the barrel. The combustion has a high temperature, so very little lead is left in the barrel, just the (mostly) water soluble fouling. Black Powder lube works to keep that inorganic salts mixture (fouling) soft enough that the 10 or 20% of the powder charge which makes up the fouling does not clog up the barrel for the next shot, or accuracy suffers. So, moly really can do nothing to help with BP shooting. It doesn't need to be there to prevent lead deposits - a good BP load never leaves lead in the barrel. It does not soften the inorganic salts in the barrel. So, either the moly has no contribution in BP loads, or it just adds a non-water-soluble component to fouling, making things harder to clean up. AFAIK. So, bottom line - the moly coating on a bullet used with real black powder is "wasted" and costs the shooter a little more for the slugs. good luck, GJ
  21. I used a Lyman moly-content, smokeless lube made about 2000 one time with a BP .45-70 loading. Never again. The very hard fouling took a lot of scrubbing to remove. I have never seen a moly-content BP lube. If you need a guarantee of success use a conventional BP lube. GJ
  22. That difference in lengths is to allow a firing or two (each stretching the length a little) on bottleneck RIFLE cases, otherwise rifle shooters would have to trim every time they fire their cases. Lots of work. So, trimming is done a little short of the "critical" too-long dimension. Trimming pistol cases is RARELY needed, the pressures are lower and there is no bottleneck shoulder to help stretch the case lengthwise. .45 Auto cases even SHORTEN with 20 or so firings. good luck, GJ
  23. This usually IS a problem with the opening lever spring having been lightened or replaced. Longhunter used to have some good V springs for the lever, IIRC. I would first check that the sliding bolt has correct engagement. The slot it slides is not fouled with crud preventing bolt from engaging. Lugs on barrel not damaged preventing engagement. If the bolt is not wide enough to reach into the barrel lug, then I'd weld up to add more material to that bolt - "just a chunk of steel." But I've never heard of an 1878 wearing out it's locking bolt. good luck, GJ
  24. IMHO, I don't. I have run the same powder for SASS cartridge loading for years now. It doesn't clump or attack the plastic in Dillon loaders. I check the first couple drops every new session, and sometimes I have an extra 0.2 grains on the very first charge on my 550. That either gets adjusted or recycled back into the hopper. Some loaders make it very tedious to dump out all the powder. Like a 550 running Dillon powder measure. So, I'm loading a lot more from experience than from opinion anyway. GJ
  25. When I loaded for a fast shooter, I threw 2.6 to 2.8 grains of Clays and that worked really well for cowboy shooting. If you are within the published tested charges, you should be getting very safe pressures. Regardless of reports of spiky pressures when above the tested loads. Throw out the first (startup) charge you drop on any progressive press, as you can never be sure how much packing of powder has occurred since the last loading session. Carry on, sounds very normal. GJ
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