Reloading Station Design Review

[John Kloehr]

On 1/22/2025 at 5:45 PM, Chancy Shot, SASS #67163 said:

If it was me, I would use 3/4 plywood under the stair tread instead of poplar.  I would move the press to the right.  When I am loading, all the stuff seems to be on the left.  The only thing on the fight is the bin to catch the completed round.

 

(No matter what you do, after a 1000 rounds you will figure out how you should have made it. 🤠 )

 

Chancy

I would also use plywood if the stuff around here was not crap full of voids. Or I would have to buy a full sheet of marine-grade for a lot of $$$.

 

My poplar is flat, and stored inside for over 20 years. It is not the stuff available at the store today which warps as soon as the bands on a unit are cut.

[John Kloehr]

When glueing up panels, always use clamps to secure the work until the glue cures. Having some weights can also help:

 

 

I'll just let this sit and cook for a couple days.

Edited January 26 by John Kloehr

[Longfoot]

4 hours ago, John Kloehr said:

When glueing up panels, always use clamps to secure the work until the glue cures. Having some weights can also help:.

9mm Luger and .22 lr are NOT CAS approved weights!

 

.45 Colt, is, of course, as decreed by God, the preferred weight.  Or, at least a historically correct 19th century cartridge, such as .38 special or .44-40, would be adequate, in a pinch.

[watab kid]

i agree with the weight , i often use ammo cans of 45acp , 9mm , as well as 45co;ly and 38 spcl , 

[Ya Big Tree]

I did this for a couple years. I used press mounted to a formica sink cutout clamped to the kitchen table. Of course it wasn't the volume of reloading I do now.

[John Kloehr]

On 1/26/2025 at 8:41 PM, Longfoot said:

9mm Luger and .22 lr are NOT CAS approved weights!

 

.45 Colt, is, of course, as decreed by God, the preferred weight.  Or, at least a historically correct 19th century cartridge, such as .38 special or .44-40, would be adequate, in a pinch.

That is why I am finally doing all this, I'm nearly out of .44-40 and .44 Russian.

[John Kloehr]

Next question... For the Oak stair tread... Would you use?

• Leave it natural, just let it get dents and stains
• Birchwood Casey Tru Oil, easily renewed and should be fine with lubricants and such
• Watco Danish Oil, looks pretty good
• MinWax polyurethane floor finish, pretty durable, really fills the pores and seals the wood

Thoughts? I'm leaving Tung oil out of the list as the stuff I find today is no longer the true product.

 

On edit:  Specific callout for the opinion of @Yul Lose

Edited January 28 by John Kloehr

[watab kid]

use the minwax it will stand up better , 

 

FWIW the deck on my B&D workmate is an inch and a half thick , i think you will need a bit more beef to yours but im sure you will let us know ....down the road ,