Missouri Ruffian Posted September 18, 2022 Posted September 18, 2022 I wouldn’t recommend a tubing cutter either. Much too small for the job. I used a pipe cutter on both my 97 and Model 12, worked a peach. Did leave a ridge on the end and a slight curl inside. All it took was a small amount of work with a half-round file on the inside and a flat file on the end. Never been able to cut a pipe straight with a hacksaw. I decide on 22 inches to start since you can take more off, but can’t put it back on. Turns out I like the balance so I stayed with that length.
watab kid Posted September 18, 2022 Posted September 18, 2022 i once used a pipe cutter - worked great and only drawback was a really sharp edge , easy enough to fix tho , and yes start with less that you think till you get where you want to go but 22" is not a bad length
Nostrum Damus SASS #110702 Posted September 18, 2022 Posted September 18, 2022 10 hours ago, Missouri Ruffian said: I wouldn’t recommend a tubing cutter either. Much too small for the job. I used a pipe cutter on both my 97 and Model 12, worked a peach. Did leave a ridge on the end and a slight curl inside. All it took was a small amount of work with a half-round file on the inside and a flat file on the end. Never been able to cut a pipe straight with a hacksaw. I decide on 22 inches to start since you can take more off, but can’t put it back on. Turns out I like the balance so I stayed with that length. The hacksaw is not supposed to make a straight cut, though it's nice if it does. There are ways to use a blade guide if you are really concerned about it. After cutting the barrel to desired length (and make sure you understand how BATFE measures shotgun barrel length) with the fine tooth hacksaw blade, the final finished end is cut with a muzzle crown facing cutter, which produces a perfectly flat and perfectly square crown face. A small very fine half round file can be used to break both the inside and outside sharp edges. Finally, the muzzle is then polished with increasingly fine grades of grit paper until perfectly smooth, and then the newly exposed steel is cold-blued and then oiled. If the muzzle crown face is not perfectly square to the axis of the bore, the gun will never shoot straight again because expanding gas will not leave the barrel uniformly at the same time all the way around the barrel. Think about what would happen if you cut the barrel at a 45-degree angle; that's what will happen with a muzzle face that isn't perfectly square to the barrel, even if only to a very small degree.
Dubious Don #56333 Posted September 18, 2022 Posted September 18, 2022 The tool to which Nostrum refers is what I consider the best way to square a cut barrel. It helps if the cut is already as square as can be but not necessary. Just takes longer and runs the risk of impatience driving a desire to use power tools that will work harden the face. Then you have to skin the "humps" off with a file or lathe and start again. Don't ask me how I know that LOL. My preferred technique is use tape to mark the barrel and make that line as square as I can. Hacksaw, leave the line. Just a slice. Thinner is better, close to the line as you can manage. File from at least six sides to square it then finish with the tool. Yes, they make a hand tool for that, don't need power tools.
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