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Nostrum Damus SASS #110702

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Everything posted by Nostrum Damus SASS #110702

  1. Pardon me for asking: what is a P38 Enfield bayonet? I've never heard of it.
  2. Update. I removed the grips. Decided to start the experiment with new mineral spirits. Wiping did nothing. Rubbing hard with spirits-soaked clean shop rags did the trick though, albeit with substantial elbow grease added. I had to disassemble the ejector as well to get at all the nooks and crannies. The entire outer metal surfaces of all parts of both guns had the microscopically thin yet amazingly stubborn yellowed whatever-it-was on it. I then LIGHTLY oiled a silicone rag and wiped all surfaces again before reassembling both guns. They are both bright shiny white high polish stainless again. OLG, I'll never know if acetone would have worked better or faster. I had the time and elbow grease to spare, so I spent it.
  3. Good idea. I haven't really thought about which solvents on my shop's chemicals shelf I might try. Paint thinner (mineral spirits), acetone, carburetor cleaner (primarily methyl chloride), brake cleaner (primarily tetrachloroethylene), or something else.
  4. I have one exactly as shown -- awesome machine at a great price. Someone should snap it up.
  5. I recently picked up a boxed consecutive SASS-numbered set of extremely lightly used polished stainless steel .357 Mag NMVs made in 2014. There are areas of steel on both guns that have a slight yellow tint, while other areas are bright white stainless in appearance. To my eye, it looks like yellowed lacquer. Has anyone seen this on Ruger NMVs? My 2008 high polish stainless NMVs do not show anything similar. Is it in fact some yellowed varnish or coating? What is the best way to remove it without damaging the polished stainless finish? Thanks in advance. Nostrum Damus
  6. Oh, I almost forgot, I have an AG m/42b too. Brain is foggy today. The Swedish gun is much more pleasant to shoot.
  7. I have its cousin, a Hakim, which was made by Egypt after it acquired the production line from Sweden after WWII. A few differences including the longer upper handguard, as well as chambering it for the millions of 7.92x57 cartridges left behind by the Germans. Really fun to shoot. If you're not careful when charging the magazine from a stripper clip, the bite of the bolt makes Garand Thumb look like a tiny nibble! And that's a good price!
  8. The Stoeger doesn't have the same reputation for "stiff" that a new CZ Sharp Tail does. The CZ is built like a tank and once you do what you need to do to make it a useful SASS SxS, it is a joy to shoot and durable -- at least I've not heard of anyone breaking one in use.
  9. I STOLE one of the Boss's lingerie washing/drying fine mesh bags and I hang the knotted bag inside the door of the clothes dryer set to hot dry. I shake off the excess water in a towel before putting it into her delicates bag, give the bag a shake once or twice while drying and it is bone dry in a half hour to 45 minutes.
  10. You ... told her? What is wrong with you, man?? She may be the Boss but there are some things a man needs to keep to himself.
  11. Just to be clearer, you first use the abrasive pad I showed a picture of, like you would any sand paper. Start with 240 or 320 grit, go carefully, and work your way up to 800 or 1200 grit. Then, use a soft cotton polishing tip with jeweler's polish for the finishing touch. You will be amazed at how much you've reduced the friction of the gun hinge breaking open and closing. Best part, this takes only a few minutes to do.
  12. Take a look at the mating surfaces of the barrel hinge mechanism -- there will already be lots of wear marks if your gun is like mine was when new. It is a very tight fit and absolutely needs to be polished. Use a buffing tip on your Dremel and go slow, and start with very fine grit if you are afraid of taking off too much metal.
  13. Have you polished all of the mating metal surfaces? Particularly nasty and in need of polishing are the two shafts of the extractor and their channels, and the cocking rods and their channels. AND all mating surfaces of the barrel hinge mechanism.
  14. Nice improv. OLG is right about the other springs, but the lever spring and plunger are super easy to replace. I don't have the opened action in front of me, so forgive me for doing this purely by memory. On the right side of the receiver, you will see the end of a solid pin that goes in at an angle. That pin captures the plunger and lever spring in their channel. You push out the pin and, if you are not paying attention, the lever spring goes flying into Never Never Found Again Land. The plunger is under the spring, as it is the plunger that makes contact with the lever's vertical shaft, not the spring itself. The plunger may or may not fall out with the spring, but if not it is easy to get out with a light rap on the receiver. When you reassemble it, you just need to get the spring past the passageway for the pin, and push the pin back in to prevent the spring from flying away again. I REALLY APOLOGIZE if I am not remembering this correctly, but I'm not taking my gun apart to check!! The sear springs are easy to swap, too, if a bit fiddly and fidgety. You just need to have patience. A small pick with a curved end helps too. Good luck.
  15. WD-40 is not a penetrating oil; it is a corrosion inhibitor that works by eliminating water molecules (though kerosene works better). Soaking with PB Blaster, KROIL, etc. is recommended before trying to get that last screw out.
  16. Like J.D. Daily, my go-to source for magazines. Recently they were the ONLY seller in the country with new 15-round magazines for FN's new Reflex 9mm pistol in stock.
  17. Everyone talks about availability of powders, more particularly, the lack thereof. But I'm finding lots of different powders in stock right now from a number of reputable retailers, but of course they are all rather pricey and you have to pay the HAZMAT shipping charge.
  18. Carefully pry the front end of each hammer spring pin from its seat in the hammer. Remove each spring/pin assembly. There's no need to remove the rear spring support bracket from the action. Securely grab the flange at the front of the assembly; remove the threaded cylindrical nut from the rear of the pin. (It may be quite difficult to remove the first time.) Swap out the original hammer spring for the new lighter one. All of the removal and reinstallation of that threaded cylindrical nut is easier if you take off the spring tension. I did it by drilling a hole in a small block of hardwood, large enough for the cylindrical nut to pass through, but small enough so that the rear spring collar does not. By putting the spring assembly rear end up in the vise, I can easily compress the spring and hold it in that position while I spin off the nut. I hope that helps.
  19. Hmmm. Of course you are correct. In any event, there's no real reason to take it off to see and work on the action.
  20. I use RCBS die set 21451 and it works just fine to roll crimp enough to take the bell out of the case mouth and sufficiently grab the bullet. I haven't seen any bullet movement within the case when firing other rounds chambered in my H&R or IJ pocket pistols.
  21. The hammered version is a whole different ball of wax, obviously, and much easier to fix the issue.
  22. The trigger guard is not removable from the action -- it is part of the action.
  23. MD -- re-read Step 1 of my step-by-step above. They are false side plates. So, both the side plates AND the buttstock must be removed to gain access to the action.
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