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Is it possible


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Possible?  Yes

Affordable?  Subjective answer.

 

I would recommend calling Turnbull Restorations or maybe even Long Hunter for a quote and see what you think.  There are a lot of companies that can strip the nickel plating and then apply Cerakote for less than color case hardening.  Unfortunately there are not a lot of choices to go to for true CCH.

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I thought you were planning on having the receiver of your new pistol case hardened, and leaving the cylinder and the barrel nickel.

 

You're looking to make refinished Smiths look correct? Strip the nickel that the morons put on hammers and triggers off, and have them recolor case hardened like they were originally?

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14 hours ago, Forty Rod SASS 3935 said:

to remove nickel plating and have the part color case hardened?  If so, is it practical and affordable?

Here are two possible places: https://fordsguns.com/pricing  and https://apwcogan.com/

 

A very quick internet search says removing the nickel or chrome is a relatively straightforward process.   You would have to ask them about color case hardening and you might be better off going to Turnbull Restorations for the CCH.  

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6 hours ago, Alpo said:

I thought you were planning on having the receiver of your new pistol case hardened, and leaving the cylinder and the barrel nickel.

 

You're looking to make refinished Smiths look correct? Strip the nickel that the morons put on hammers and triggers off, and have them recolor case hardened like they were originally?

Yep, and the trigger guard, too, because a lot of them were CCH as well.

 

Well, not exactly.  I don't have an original.  I have a Uberti / Cimarron #3 first Model American (Which is really a lot closer to the "transitional model" with some changes the Russians asked for....and it's a .45 Colt, a caliber that not even one of the American / Russian guns had available.

 

But what the hey!  I love it except for those few parts that need to be CCH.

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And it shoots.

 

Over 30 years since I fired a handgun with a barrel that long.  The gun is already  approximately 30% heavier than a SAA, so I have lo-o-o-o-o-o-ong learning curve with little ammo to waste practicing.  I had 50 rounds of some old reloads and went to the local range this morning

 

First of al they were all on the paper  at 20 yards save one which didn't go off at all.  First five were all on the paper but all over the place.  Second five was the one with the bad round, but the other four were still everywhere.  

 

By the time I got to #40 to-45 out of fifty I had a decent six inch group, and the last five were four in the center with a four inch group and a wandering star up in the top left corner.

 

Notes:

1. This is a very fine gun, a bit stiff still, but not bad for a new piece.

2. Nickel plate shows every fingerprint and a lot of gray from the gun smoke.

3. The hammer is shorter than the SAA and in an unfamiliar place.  Also, the barrel latch blocks the hammer a bit, so you're not going to find it as smooth to operate.  Maybe with some practice I'll get faster, but I doubt I'll ever get as fast as  was with the SAA, and that it will take a lot of practice.

4.  I can't figure out how to remove the cylinder for cleaning.  Any help here will be appreciated.

 

It's not perfect, but would I sell it?  HELL, NO!

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