levi littleton Posted April 22, 2015 Share Posted April 22, 2015 We have a 20 gauge, double trigger Stoeger Coach gun that my wife has used in SASS off and on for 25 years. She is shooting again and loves the gun. But it don't eject like anyone else's worked over 20 gauge. Had a local guy mess the gun up "fixing it". Still won't extract without serious help. Gun is marked 3" chambers. At least for loading the chambers have been beveled, and the gun generally opens easier. I've bought a 20 gauge flex hone and oil. Polished the chambers again and ran a dremel polishing wheel in after, to no avail. Mirror bright chambers now but the gun still sucks getting the empties out. Anyone got a secret? Do I just need to search out better ammo? If so what is the current choice for a 20 gauge? Or is there someone that will take in a used Stoeger and slick it up proper. No gun plumbers need apply. It is painful to watch her suffer through every shotgun stage. I gotta do some thing to make right. thanks for the help! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Doc Fill 'Em 67797 Posted April 22, 2015 Share Posted April 22, 2015 Have you tried several different brands of shells? My wife shoots a 20 gauge Baikal and it's picky about which shells extract easily. The Winchester Low Noise Low Recoil work great. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
StirrupTrouble Posted April 22, 2015 Share Posted April 22, 2015 Is it hard to break open? One thing I saw one one Stoeger that I unfortunately let one work over that wasn't a pro, but "knew what he was doing," I found out later from another gunsmith that when he honed the chambers, he took too much off and the shells were actually swelling when fired, compounding the problem. His solution to fix it was rather expensive, so I ended up selling it to a friend that wanted it as a wall hanger and picked up the one I had my eye on before I bought the old used one. I hope that isn't what happened with hers, but is the second pair of shells on a stage harder to extract than the first? Then, when the barrel cools before the next stage, is it better again, then harder on the second pair on the stage? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
levi littleton Posted April 22, 2015 Author Share Posted April 22, 2015 I try the Winchester ammo. My 12 is picky that way. Might be on the chambers as you mention ST. Seems stickier now on reloads that when we started and fumble bubba got hold of the gun. I seldom play with it because the stock was cut down for her use. Guess I need to spend some time sorting it and ammo out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
StirrupTrouble Posted April 22, 2015 Share Posted April 22, 2015 I try the Winchester ammo. My 12 is picky that way. Might be on the chambers as you mention ST. Seems stickier now on reloads that when we started and fumble bubba got hold of the gun. I seldom play with it because the stock was cut down for her use. Guess I need to spend some time sorting it and ammo out. I was afraid of that. As a test, on a non-match day, take it to the range and just fire shells through it over and over, and see if it sticks more the warmer it gets. If it does, I would suggest taking it to a SxS smith for an evaluation Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nate Kiowa Jones #6765 Posted April 22, 2015 Share Posted April 22, 2015 If you are not using the right ammo no amount of honing will help. Those dingle berry and brake hones can be too aggressive. I have had shotguns sent to me that were honed so much they would split hulls. Some chambers were honed so big the extractor would slip off the rims. These guns were ruined. Now, if the chamber has some rough spots it will help to smooth them out, just go easy. You can do that with nothing more than a wooden dowel split on the end for some 400 grit wet or dry paper rolled up tight and a hand drill, but try the gun with the right ammo first.Slick vs rippled is the what most folks think is the difference between the ammo that shucks easy and the ammo that doesn't.That's really not what makes the difference. What makes the difference is how thick/stiff the plastic is. When fired the thin/soft plastic like most of the cheap SG ammo expands or swells to the chamber but unlike the thick/stiff plastic ammo, it does not contract or shrink causing it to hang in the chamber. This is easy to verify. Next time you are at a shoot check the trash can for some of the empty hulls and squeeze them. You will see that the Win AA's or the Rem STS's are stiffer that the cheap stuff. If you've done all this and the hulls still stick you may well have a small chamber. But you don't just start honing on it. If you don't have the proper calipers to measure the inside of the chamber the first step is to pour a chamber cast using Cerro Safe metal. Then you measure the casting with normal precision measuring tool. If it's tight sure you can open it up some but if you plan to remove more than .010" it really should be reamed. To remove something less than .010" the dingle berry hone is not a good choice for this. It follows every irregularity in the chamber. The Brake hone with its 2 or 3 fixed stones is a better choice. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
levi littleton Posted April 25, 2015 Author Share Posted April 25, 2015 Thanks Nate. We've found the extra light Winchester AA loads, with a smooth hull would drop spent hulls. The normal light AA loads with the same smooth hulls from Winchester would not. Every thing else (6 brands) simply stuck on extraction and have to be dug out. Hopefully we are on the right track. At least one of ammo will work. 7/8 oz of #8 @ 1200fps work. Ordered the 7/8oz doing 980 which I hope will be even better. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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