Question for pocket watch experts

[Horace Patootie, SASS #35798]

My Mother gave me an old pocket watch that belonged to my great grandfather. Two inches across. Says "CLIFTON" on the dial. Has hour and minute hand with second hand at the six o'clock position. Gold colored. Any info appreciated. It doesn't run so maybe I can get it fixed.

Thanks,

Horace

 

 

http://s289.photobucket.com/user/wmathewsw/library/Vaqueros/Pocketwatch

[Cat Brules]

Just a little heads up:

I would research the watch and find out if it has any value aside from being a keepsake (i.e. is it solid gold?) before you just hand it over to someone for repair. If it is valuable, make sure the repair shop knows that you know it's value. Even then, try to get recommendations on the shop as to their reliability and integrity.

 

I don't think I ever knew specifically about Clifton watches, but something is ringing a bell about them being around in the 20's through the mid 50's or so. Don't know why I think that, but maybe sometime and somewhere in the past I had reason to know.

 

Let us know what you find out and maybe let us see a picture of the watch(?).

 

Cat Brules

[Guest jeweler jim]

Pictures, need pictures. On the case or inside it you will find either gold KT (10=417, 14=583or585, 18=750)or the fact that it is a "20, or 30 etc. year case." The year thing means that it was plated and guaranteed not to wear through for that period of time.

 

On any of these pieces you have either the "scrap value of the gold or "what someone is willing to pay for it."

 

Thinking you would have someone local, Jeweler/Horologist that should be able to tell you what you have.

 

Have my grand father's old pocket watch that is basically a cheap "Elgin" that has no great value, but would never sell it or even trade for a solid gold one.

[Horace Patootie, SASS #35798]

Added a link to pics

[Willy B.SASS#26902]

I tried to look up Clifton in my Complete guide to pocket watches with no luck, Chances are it's a hardware store brand if you can look at the back of the movement you "MIGHT" get a better idea of who made it.

Good luck with it.

Willy B'

[Horace Patootie, SASS #35798]

I'll try to find more identifying marks.

[Guest jeweler jim]

First I ain't a horologist, but without a decent resolution photo of the guts/inside (serial numbers, bridging, etc.) can't date it or determine value. Having said that I believe you have a plated watch that doesn't carry a great value so you would be safe in letting someone local and knowledgeable look at it and perhaps keep it for repairs. The serial numbers and bridging will date and help you get value. It's nice to have someone you know or have confidence in but when there isn't great value the stranger is less inclined to take advantage of you. "If you can't steal big don't bother."

 

 

 

If it ain't working the cost to refurbish could exceed the value of the watch, but the face looks good and if it is a simple clean without needing parts it might not be a bad way to go for you. Remember that when you carry it you should carry it face side in to prevent breaking the crystal. After getting it running you need to wind it every few months to keep the parts lubricated and prevent the oil from drying and solidifying to lock things up inside. Have had a number of clocks and watches refurbished to exceed the value because of sentiment and still carry my Grampa's watch when wearing a vest at shoots or when I still had three piece suits.

[Horace Patootie, SASS #35798]

I was able to unscrew the front with crystal but couldn't see anything not already visible. Don't want to attempt to disassemble so I will have it looked at.

Thanks to all for help and advice. I will update if I can resolve this.

Horace

[Silver Sam, SASS #34718L]

Horace,

The case looks like a screw-back, if so the back of the case will unscrew just like you did the crystal.

If I could get a good look at the movement I could identify the watch for you.

To my knowledge there was no such watchmaker as Clifton,

most likely the watch was made by one of the many American makers for a jeweler or store named "Clifton"

Or it's a Swiss Fake.

Either way it's most likely not worth a heck of a lot, other than sentimental value.

 

If you cant get it apart, bring it along to CVV on the 4th sat this month,

I'll be there at the WB match & I'll show you how to take it apart

[Horace Patootie, SASS #35798]

Thanks, Sam !

[wes]

Horace,

The case looks like a screw-back, if so the back of the case will unscrew just like you did the crystal.

If I could get a good look at the movement I could identify the watch for you.

To my knowledge there was no such watchmaker as Clifton,

most likely the watch was made by one of the many American makers for a jeweler or store named "Clifton"

Or it's a Swiss Fake.

Either way it's most likely not worth a heck of a lot, other than sentimental value.

 

If you cant get it apart, bring it along to CVV on the 4th sat this month,

I'll be there at the WB match & I'll show you how to take it apart

That is exactly it. Without seeing the movement, there is no way to know if it has a Swiss movement, or a more desirable (for the most part) American made movement. If it's a private label American made pocket watch, it should not be incredibly difficult to find someone to service it. If it has a Swiss movement, it is most likely better served as a paper weight - or for costuming - at this point.

From what I can tell from the photos, it certainly appears it is in a gold filled case at most - as there appears to be brass showing (gold worn off).

As others have said, if you unscrew (most likely) the back cover and snap a clear photo, it should be fairly easy to ID if American.

 

Here are some very thorough instructions on how to open antique and vintage pocket watch cases:

http://www.pocketwatchsite.com/opencase_singer.txt

[Anthracite Andy]

Just to get it cleaned by a reputable watchsmith is going to be $100. Sure, some guy will dunk it in a vat of solvent in an ultrasonic cleaner for $50 give it a shot of spray-on lube. As others mentioned, the plating is wearing off of the brass case, so it isn't solid gold.

 

Pocket watches are cool, and I have a few, but they really aren't the most practical timepieces. The watch cases aren't waterproof or dustproof, they don't keep all that great of time (unless it is one of the more expensive ones, which this isn't), and to keep the pivots oiled means the watch should be used almost daily, and not just sit in a drawer for two months and then worn for 5 hours.

 

When I used to do Civil War reenacting, most of the guys would just buy the cheapest quartz pocket watch they could find at WalMart, they kept good time and if a horse stepped on it you weren't out $200. I used to carry a real pocket watch from around 1890, and after a few events I realized it was more a pain in the butt than anything so quit using it. I actually have a Civil War Waltham, and there is no way I'd wear that reenacting or to a cowboy match.

 

Anthracite Andy