40Chev Posted October 14, 2011 Share Posted October 14, 2011 Bought a new 73 (Uberti)- box stock and no mods, ran some dummy rounds through it. Feeds in fine but levering them out of the chamber requires a lot of force. Cartridge will slide into the chamber easily by hand, tip the stock down and barrel up and it falls right out of the chamber. Took an empty case and when it is locked to the bolt by the extractor hook - it appears to be about an 1/8" too high and maybe a little off to the left of the chamber when trying to close the bolt. I'm guessing the taper of the bullet on the dummy allows the cartridge to enter the chamber while the empty case hits the edge of end of the barrel. I'm a ways away from the gun store or would have gone right back with it - owner said bring it in so he could look at it and I will do so. Anyone face this problem and can educate me so I will have a clue what might be the case? Gun is brand new - never fired and I haven't fired it. Dealer brought it out to show me and it was in the box and still tightly wrapped in the plastic bag when he brought it out so I am pretty sure it has never been monkeyed with. No finger prints on the metal - no hatched up screw heads. Price was good - only one he had and I would just as soon keep it if this is something minor. Hope description I gave is good enough for a diagnosis of what is wrong with it. Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Garrison Joe, SASS #60708 Posted October 14, 2011 Share Posted October 14, 2011 Well, no, not enough of a real description, I'm afraid. 73s usually don't have problems with hard extraction. The extractor on a 73 should not be snapping over the case rim until the case is fully in the chamber. This is not a controlled-feed gun, in other words. So, your worry about the fact the the extractor holds the case a little off of the chamber centerline is, I believe, not all that important. The extractor should be able to move easily enough to snap over the rim as the bolt closes, and the extractor should hold the rim snugly enough that it does not "fall off" the bolt on it's own weight. Some 73 extractors are too stiff and need to be thinned and polished to work smoothly. How does the action work with no rounds in it? Is the lever still hard to open? If so, problem is with the bolt, toggle links, lever, or carrier fit. Or a really heavy hammer spring (or the firing pin extension binding up as it cocks the hammer)! On a new gun, factory should be willing to have their service gunsmith correct the problems at no charge, but sometimes a long wait. I know you'd like to "go to town" shooting this, but with your particular situation, not knowing how the 73 should function real well, and being a distance from your gun shop, you would probably be best advised to tell them - make it right, or I need my money back. Alternatively, fastest way to solve this is to ship the gun off to a good Cowboy rifle smith and have them troubleshoot it, tune the action to be smooth, and they will certainly stand behind their work. Pioneer GunWorks in Oregon, Coyote Cap and Drifter at Coyote Cap's shop in Morristown, Minn., Jim Bowie at Cowboys and Indian store (CA), LongHunter (TX), Cody Conager, etc, etc. Good luck, GJ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
August West, SASS #45079 Posted October 14, 2011 Share Posted October 14, 2011 Who imported it? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
40Chev Posted October 14, 2011 Author Share Posted October 14, 2011 Who imported it? Don't have rifle with me at the moment - but I believe that Accocreek was stamped on the barrel - thought that I had a pistol but it was stamped I thought Stoeger - Accocreek MD? Rifle did not have the "Stoeger" part Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
40Chev Posted October 14, 2011 Author Share Posted October 14, 2011 Well, no, not enough of a real description, I'm afraid. 73s usually don't have problems with hard extraction. The extractor on a 73 should not be snapping over the case rim until the case is fully in the chamber. This is not a controlled-feed gun, in other words. So, your worry about the fact the the extractor holds the case a little off of the chamber centerline is, I believe, not all that important. The extractor should be able to move easily enough to snap over the rim as the bolt closes, and the extractor should hold the rim snugly enough that it does not "fall off" the bolt on it's own weight. Some 73 extractors are too stiff and need to be thinned and polished to work smoothly. How does the action work with no rounds in it? Is the lever still hard to open? If so, problem is with the bolt, toggle links, lever, or carrier fit. On a new gun, factory should be willing to have their service gunsmith correct the problems at no charge, but sometimes a long wait. I know you'd like to "go to town" shooting this, but with your particular situation, not knowing how the 73 should function real well, and being a distance from your gun shop, you would probably be best advised to tell them - make it right, or I need my money back. Alternatively, fastest way to solve this is to ship the gun off to a good Cowboy rifle smith and have them troubleshoot it, tune the action to be smooth, and they will certainly stand behind their work. Pioneer GunWorks in Oregon, Coyote Cap and Drifter at Coyote Cap's shop in Morristown, Minn., Jim Bowie at Cowboys and Indian store (CA), LongHunter (TX), Cody Conager, etc, etc. Good luck, GJ It is stiff without rounds - but then it is a new gun. It is when cycling a round that it becomes necessary to use force to eject the cartridge from the chamber - so much force that you would not be able to keep it on your shoulder and cycle it - Carrier does not seem to "bind". Have an original 73 - but that gun is 100 plus years old - and it is smoother. Also have a Uberti 73 in 32-20 - that gun is smoother - but I bought it as a "used" gun although it appeared to not have been fired - I have no idea how much "handling" had been done to it. So - I attributed the roughness to just being a new gun - I pulled the side plates - I do not see wear marks on the toggles, bolt or carrier that would indicate something binding internally Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adirondack Jack, SASS #53440 Posted October 14, 2011 Share Posted October 14, 2011 It is stiff without rounds - but then it is a new gun. It is when cycling a round that it becomes necessary to use force to eject the cartridge from the chamber - so much force that you would not be able to keep it on your shoulder and cycle it - Carrier does not seem to "bind". Have an original 73 - but that gun is 100 plus years old - and it is smoother. Also have a Uberti 73 in 32-20 - that gun is smoother - but I bought it as a "used" gun although it appeared to not have been fired - I have no idea how much "handling" had been done to it. So - I attributed the roughness to just being a new gun - I pulled the side plates - I do not see wear marks on the toggles, bolt or carrier that would indicate something binding internally It shouldn't be any different to lever open with or without a round in the chamber. IF it is, perhaps the gun really is messed up. I'm thinking the worst case scenario is the bolt is not in line with the bore (frame drilled wrong or bad barrel). If the ACTION is just stiff, try backing off the tension on the two front springs a LITTLE, or better yet get it to a real cowboy gunsmith before ya ruin the cams by cycling it if it is so stiff it's eating itself up.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Garrison Joe, SASS #60708 Posted October 14, 2011 Share Posted October 14, 2011 I'd suggest, if you want to find this yourself, that you "divide and conquer" to troubleshoot it. A 73, where each part does usually just one function, is easy to do this with. First, pull the lever pin out that engages the toggle links. Run the lever and carrier - you are looking for what is stiff and almost binding. If that is ok, then move on to: reinstall one toggle link install the other toggle link - at this point you will be testing the links and the bolt/firing pin extension as well as the lever pull the carrier lifter arm out and just cycle the bolt and firing pin extension cock and drop the hammer - just use your thumb to see how much effort it takes Testing each of these assemblies individually will almost always show you where the binding is coming from. A new rifle will not be "well-oiled clock" easy, but parts should move easily enough that you can run the lever with the gun on your shoulder. Good luck, GJ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Thoreau Leadbetter Posted October 14, 2011 Share Posted October 14, 2011 Don't have rifle with me at the moment - but I believe that Accocreek was stamped on the barrel - thought that I had a pistol but it was stamped I thought Stoeger - Accocreek MD? Rifle did not have the "Stoeger" part FYI, Stoger is an importer of A. Uberti firearms and it is Accokeek, MD. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lefty Dude, SASS # 51223 Posted October 14, 2011 Share Posted October 14, 2011 What dummy rounds are you using ? If they are A-Zoom, they may be your problem. I have a 73 Carbine in 44-40. I also have 12 A-zoom dummys. Two groups of six each bought at different times. Six will feed and eject, six will not. The six that will not eject have a thicker rim than the six that will eject. They stick on the top extractor and I must remove them manually. Also it is my opinion, that by using the A-zoom's with a consistant dry fire program you may be damaging the top extractor with excessive wear. The a-zoom alluminum alloy is harder than brass, thus the damage might occur. Just my opine, you understand. BTW; my 73 runs 44-40's like Corn thru a Goose. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
40Chev Posted October 14, 2011 Author Share Posted October 14, 2011 What dummy rounds are you using ? If they are A-Zoom, they may be your problem. I have a 73 Carbine in 44-40. I also have 12 A-zoom dummys. Two groups of six each bought at different times. Six will feed and eject, six will not. The six that will not eject have a thicker rim than the six that will eject. They stick on the top extractor and I must remove them manually. Also it is my opinion, that by using the A-zoom's with a consistant dry fire program you may be damaging the top extractor with excessive wear. The a-zoom alluminum alloy is harder than brass, thus the damage might occur. Just my opine, you understand. BTW; my 73 runs 44-40's like Corn thru a Goose. Just a regular brass case, no powder or primer, silicon in the primer hole and a seated bullet I think AJ has it - I think either the bolt or chamber is not right. With no cartridges it cycles like you would expect a nonslicked new gun to do Chambering the round is ok - when you try to extract it drags badly Thanks for the tips - looks to me like the gun has problems - not going to mess with anymore so I won't be accused of fouling it up myself Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lone Dog, SASS #20401 Posted November 12, 2011 Share Posted November 12, 2011 Any updates? FYI Accocreek is also the long time home of Beretta USA. Uberti and Stoeger are part of the Beretta/Benelli/Franchi empire. Is it a Renegade? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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