Making a Ruger like a Colt

[45 Dragoon]

9 hours ago, Redwood Kid said:

If you tune them properly they should last a very long time. Could possibly be a difference in shooting one handed versus two? Less strain on the parts maybe? 

 

  This is actually true.  The springs in a Colt and especially the copies are usually very over tensioned!  Main springs delivering a 7-8-9 lb hammer draw, bolt springs with 5-7 lb pressure .  .  .

 Tuned mains can be reliable at 4 lbs hammer draw (cap guns) or 3 lbs (cartridge)!  A bolt spring should be no more than 3 lbs.  The hand spring should be light enough to not allow "throw-by"  ( over rotation of the cylinder).  

  Reducing the tension the spring exerts is how you extend the life of the flat. Keep bending the "oak" and it will break, turn it into a "sapling" and you're good to go! How long? Who knows!! Possibly 100 yrs, 10 yrs,  breaks tomorrow!! (More likely next stage!!! Lol).  It really depends on the material used for the spring, number of cycles and keeping the "tin worm" away!!  The other and possibly even more valid reason for tuning the springs (even the coils in factory guns) is the life/wear of the parts they act on.  For instance, the bolt spring tension is directly related to bolt arm wear, hammer cam wear even early bolt drop of ill fitted bolts as well as how aggressive the bolt head well scar the cylinder!! Every action has a reaction. 

 Of course, a much lightened action allows for a much faster handling revolver which results in less parts fatigue as well as user fatigue!!  Not to mention, "tuning" isn't just about lightening the action, it's also about parts life, how they fit together, work together, setting up wear patterns for looong life/less friction .  .  .  .  it's involved .  .  .  . 

 

I admit though that coils are the better setup and converting flats to coils is a huge change for the better .  .  .  .  done right! (Oh, by the way, wire springs break too, coils are waaay better!!) 

 

Ok, I'll give it a rest now,

 

Mike