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Who has owned a Rogers and spencer repro


grey ghost

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Looking for people who have owned one and looking for some specific info.

My son was digging around my safe and came up with my unfired in the box repro from 1993. It was a gift for a friend who passed away before I could give it to him. 

My son now owns it and I see it is no longer made. 

On to the questions,

Is there anything holster wise that it would interchange with do I need to have him one made

Does anybody have the conversion cylinder and how does it shoot with it

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I have 3 that I have shot many years in cas competition.

There are few things that can be done to make the as reliable as cartridge revolvers.

As far as holsters...the barrels on the R7S is long and has a post front sight.

If the holster does not down down far enough to cover the front sight, I can assure you that the sight will hang up on the bottom of the holster during a rushed draw. Every time.

 

If you want to use them in competition, I suggest rounding off the front of the cylinder.

It is so sharp from the factory, it will cut the holster when you put the gun in.(sp)

Had the rear sight opened up just a little so I could see the width of the front post.

Changed the nipples to Treso.

A little chamfering on the chamber open is makes seating the ball much easier.

 

Basically, the R&S has a lot of very sharp edges that could use a little attention in smooth.

 

One thing I found hard to get use to was the grip.

Most revolvers require you to hold down on the grip, with some even having your little finger off the grip and under it.

The Roger & Spence requires you to cram your hand up against the trigger guard and get all your fingers on the grip.

 

I bought them because of all the c&b revolvers I held and pointed at targets did not point without me adjusting my hand.

The Roger & Spencer points right on target for me.

 

 

 

 

 

 

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Forgot..conversion cylinders.

 

I do not have any conversion cylinders.

But I shot with Old Scout for years.

I think he built the first Rogers and Spencer revolvers.

I know he competed with 2 originals and he used 2 Euroarms with conversion cylinders.

 

http://www.taylorsfirearms.com/hand-guns/cartridge-conversions/rogers-spencer-conversion-cylinders.html

https://www.buffaloarms.com/howell-old-west-cartridge-conversion-cylinder-for-rogers-spencer-45-colt-rdrs45

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The cylinder axle keeper screw, (opposing screws) tighten to each other and not to the frame.

To release the cylinder I can release the cylinder axle, I pinch the screw between my thumb and first finger and just turn it, one half turn to rotate the notch in the screw to match the cylinder pin.

The ram rod assembly with cylinder axle slide right out.

 

NO tools required. (except if the two screws come loose from each other.

 

One of the screws has a punch mark on it so you know where the notch in the screw is located.

When getting read to shoot, I look at teh screws to make sure the punch mark is where it needs to be.

Nothing more embarrassing than trying to set the ball and the ram assembly lifts out of the frame.  (Yes, more than once)

 

The conversion cylinder is removed exactly like the C&B cylinder.

The cylinder is a two piece assembly.

Chambers and back plate with firing pins installed for each chamber.

The back of the cylinder is lifted off to insert cartridges and remove spent cases.

There is a small pin on the back of the back plate to keep it from rotating out of sink with the chambers.

A short rod or pencil helps push out the spent cases.

 ================

Basically, with the conversion cylinder out of the frame, you remove the back plate.

Insert cartridges and place backing place on the cylinder.

Then place the complete assembly in the frame just as you would the standard cylinder.

PUsh the cylinder axle and ram rod assembly in to the frame and turn the screw, 1/2 turn.

 

 

 

 

 

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