Zeak Posted December 10, 2010 Share Posted December 10, 2010 Slicking up a 20 gauge stoeger! I have the cylinders polished and the hulls are "falling" out now. The trigger switch will be next and I have that figured out. That last thing that I want to do to the stoeger is take the firing pins out to inspect, clean or replace. Having not done this operation I thought I had better summon someone who has. I see where I have to make the "special pin wrench" No problem there. Is that the first and only step to removing the pins or do you have to remove any of the gear behind? Hammers etc. I get the occasional missfire and I am leaning more towards crud in there as opposed to the action opening a little. It seems to happen much more often afer a box or two of shells. It has had a black powder past as well. Appriecate any help! Zeke Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Deadeye Dallas, SASS #60249 Posted December 10, 2010 Share Posted December 10, 2010 here you go http://www.longhunt.com/gunparts/stoeger.htm Dallas Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zeak Posted December 10, 2010 Author Share Posted December 10, 2010 here you go http://www.longhunt.com/gunparts/stoeger.htm Dallas I have that link Dallas. Those were the ones that I will get if needed. What I am looking for now is a little info on getting old ones out. Thanks, Zeke Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Deadeye Dallas, SASS #60249 Posted December 10, 2010 Share Posted December 10, 2010 I have that link Dallas. Those were the ones that I will get if needed. What I am looking for now is a little info on getting old ones out. Thanks, Zeke Did you see the tool on the link I sent you? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tequila Jim #14501 Posted December 10, 2010 Share Posted December 10, 2010 Shure would like that tool mounted on a screwdriver handle. I may do exactly that. Regards, TJ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Church Key, SASS # 33713 Posted December 11, 2010 Share Posted December 11, 2010 Use two 5/64" drill bits reversed in the holes held tight with a rag and turned with a screwdriver. The poor mans fix. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ranger Sgt. Jake McCandless #3368 Posted December 11, 2010 Share Posted December 11, 2010 Slicking up a 20 gauge stoeger! I have the cylinders polished and the hulls are "falling" out now. The trigger switch will be next and I have that figured out. That last thing that I want to do to the stoeger is take the firing pins out to inspect, clean or replace. Having not done this operation I thought I had better summon someone who has. I see where I have to make the "special pin wrench" No problem there. Is that the first and only step to removing the pins or do you have to remove any of the gear behind? Hammers etc. I get the occasional missfire and I am leaning more towards crud in there as opposed to the action opening a little. It seems to happen much more often afer a box or two of shells. It has had a black powder past as well. Appriecate any help! Zeke I take my pins out yearly to clean them. I loosen the bushings in side of the bushing is firing pin and return spring,nothing else to come flying out at one. The FP springs are a small light weight coil spring. I replaced the firing pins with those from Longhunter,when I clean them and lube with Ezzox and haven't had any rust. The first time I took them out ,their was quite a bit of metal debris not to mention some gooey grease in them and the recess in the firing pin bushings. Good Luck Adios Sgt. Jake Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gold Canyon Kid #43974 Posted December 11, 2010 Share Posted December 11, 2010 I have always just used a couple of the butt ends of small drill bits taped together at the ends. Use a screw driver in lever mode between them. Put the pins in the holes outside the firing pin hole. Make sure you also smooth up the firing pin holes by running a drill bit through the firing pin holes by HAND (one that barely fits). As the original pins get a bit fatter through use, they won't hang up so easy. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rio Brazos Kid Posted December 11, 2010 Share Posted December 11, 2010 Like Sgt. Jake stated. Just unscrew the firing pin collars and the pins and retracting springs come right out the front. No other disassenbly necessary. Quick and easy. When ordering the wrench, also order new pins, as the originals are soft and tend to mushroom and cause Failure to Fire problems. The new pins are a very hard alloy of Stainless Steel, and won't mushroom like the originals. RBK Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marauder SASS #13056 Posted December 11, 2010 Share Posted December 11, 2010 Tuning a Stoeger SxS By Black Hills Blacky with a few others input. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jack Houston # 35508 Posted December 11, 2010 Share Posted December 11, 2010 snap ring pliers will work Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snakebite Dust SASS 75484 Posted December 11, 2010 Share Posted December 11, 2010 snap ring pliers will work ditto Thats what I have always used. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Malpais Mike Posted December 11, 2010 Share Posted December 11, 2010 Hello the camp! I have snap ring pliers, drill bits and the usual suspects. However, I have found enough difference in hole spacing to make custom tools advisable. I take a screwdriver and make several passes, as reqd, with a Dremel cutoff wheel across the tip to form the tines. Takes less time to do than it does to talk about it. Since I have half a gigabyte in screwdrivers--well, maybe not, but way too many--tool source is not a problem. A Sharpy will mark the handle to ID the tool. My .02. mm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zeak Posted December 11, 2010 Author Share Posted December 11, 2010 I take my pins out yearly to clean them. I loosen the bushings in side of the bushing is firing pin and return spring,nothing else to come flying out at one. The FP springs are a small light weight coil spring. I replaced the firing pins with those from Longhunter,when I clean them and lube with Ezzox and haven't had any rust. The first time I took them out ,their was quite a bit of metal debris not to mention some gooey grease in them and the recess in the firing pin bushings. Good Luck Adios Sgt. Jake That was the info that I was looking for. It's that "flying out" stuff that one comes to fear. I see no problems now. That will be next weeks job / project. We're going to trudge through a little snow to the range this morning to try a Rossi '357 that we put Nate's kit in. Thanks Jake and all others that jumped in, Zeke SASS 89367 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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