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Clyde Henry 7046

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About Clyde Henry 7046

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    7046
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    Rattlesnake Gulch Rangers

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    Eastern Washington State

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  1. That is exactly what I did, talked with MVA. They set me up with the correct base (and screws) and Soule sight. No problems with anything hitting anything That Soule sight made the gun into a target rifle for sure.
  2. I'll second that advise on getting yourself a copy of " Cartridges of the World" book. There are several more cartridges listed in that book that should be included on your list.
  3. It depends on what you call “long range”. At some matches “long range” is not more than 300 yards (which is really the short end of mid-range). And, at others, its more like 500 to 1000 yards. The more accomplished shooters will go with a larger diameter and heavier bullet for the longer distances. The reason, WIND! It is easier for the wind to push a smaller, lighter, faster bullet than a big slower heavier bullet. Also study up on the effects of spin drift and how will the wind interacts with the spin of the bullet. The 45-70 is a great round to start out with. It works well with both black powder and smokeless. Lots of easy to get components and bullet molds. Lots of folks will recommend smaller rounds for shorter distances, but, just remember, the 45-70 also works great at the shorter distances. And it has the added benefit of working well at the longer distances. I have both a 40-65 and a 45-70. If the wind is blowing and/or the distances are more than 500 yards, I shoot my 45-70 every time. The 40-65 begins to wonder around some by the time it gets to the 600 yard mark and it just gets worse from there on out. While the 40-65 will travel great distances, it can not be relied upon to be a consistent hitter at very far targets. If you are target shooting, then buy a target weight rifle. Combo rifles for both hunting and target shooting do a poor job at either task. The next thing you need to think about is sighting. DON’T buy cheap sights. I would rather have a lower quality rifle and very high-quality Soule sight than the other way around. MVA, Balwin, Kelley all make great Soule sights. Get a globe front sight (with level). There is no substitute for trigger time. These long range rifles are just like any other rifle, they have their likes and dislikes for powder and bullets. Shoot it with different loads, it will tell you what it likes. Don’t relay 100 yard target results. Test the rifle at a minimum of 300 yards. Variances in bullet speed are easier to spot when shooting at far targets. If have a chronograph, clock the bullets speed and look for a load that is very speed consistent from shot to shot. Once you have found a consistent load, shoot the rifle a lot in different weather conditions and RECORD the conditions for each distance in a record book, along with sight settings. Then, using the recorded data as guide, all you have to do is dial in the sight setting and impress a lot of other shooters when you hit the target with your first shot.
  4. Dusty:. The shooter goes immediately to the tie breaker target. The goal here to not have to call shooters back to the long range for shoot offs and not use time. Tie breaker shots\hits are only counted to break ties. The are not counted on the main course of fire. The small targets reinforce the emphasis on precision.
  5. I don't like to use time to break ties. Using times just makes the match into a speed match. SSAS long range rules state that the emphasis is on precision. Speed and precision have very little to do with each other. As for breaking ties, I set out very small tie breaker targets that are shot after the main course of fire is shot. A shooter keeps shooting at the tie breaker target until a miss is recorded.
  6. How far is long range for you?
  7. This is just a test and only a test. Had this been a real - - - - - - - -
  8. If your setting up a rifle for long range, then set it up with target sights. I use the Soule sight from my other long range rifles. I bought another base and mounted on my rifle. I record my sight setting for each range I shoot at. While both calibers will work, my preference would be the 357 with heavy bullets (180 to 200 grains). What ever you do, be sure the rifling twist will support the weight of bullet you shoot. All of my long range rifles tend to work better (ie hit the target more times) when I shoot heavy bullets at moderate speeds.
  9. +4 MVA Soule sites. Most of the sights came with the rifles I have bought along the way. I also started out with MVA's tallest, and the one the has the most windage (real handy when shooting 1000 yards). All my rifles wear the MVA sight bases except one. Its a Baldwin, its a really nice sight. But the Baldwin screws turn opposite direction than the MVA. Nothing wrong with that, except but my habit is to think its an MVA and that can be confusing at times. As for front sights, all my rifles have globes with the inserts and bubble level. The level comes into play at the longer ranges. It keeps canting errors to a minimum. While I started out with an MVA front sight, it didn't take long to figure out that was a mistake. That little tab on top of the sight that holds the inserts in the sight snags on everything and it isn't long before it breaks off and you lose the insert. You have to send the sight back to MVA for repair. I now use globe sites have screw in caps to keep the insert in place, much better. I install mine so the screw cap faces the muzzle. A lot easier to use that way, just stand the rifle up on it's butt and work the screw. I have used Baldwin front sights for years now, and have found had no reason to change.
  10. If you’re only going to buy one rifle, the best is the 45-70, brass and bullet are easily to come by. I have several calibers which include the 38-55, 40-50 SBN, 40-60, 40-65, 40-80, 45-70 and the 45-90). I have shot 50 yards to 1200 yards matches. The most versatile is the 45-70. I only shoot Swiss BP in mine. I have found that with the right BP loads, I can hit the target more times than using smokeless. When you go looking for the rifle, buy a target rifle with a heavy weight barrel. Hunting weight rifles make for poor performing target rifles. Get a rifle with a pistol grip and one with shotgun type butt. Get a high quality Soule type rear sight (the ones with windage adjustments). Forget about the Lyman and Marble tang sights. Get a globe front sight with the bubble level. There are lots of high wall rifles on the market, but the one where you get the most bang for your buck, is the Browning BPCR, which comes from the factory with a Badger Barrel (sort of the gold standard for single shot rifles) and the correct target type sights. If you go looking for a Browning BPCR, don’t buy any other Browning 1885 single shot, they are not the same as the BPCR. One other thing, when I first started out, I bought a military rolling block action thinking I could save a few bucks by assembling it myself with barrel, socks, etc . Wrong!!! By the time I bought everything and then paid the gunsmith to put it together, I spent more money (and more than a year waiting) than if I had just went out and bought a nice new long range rifle.
  11. The shooters over at the American Single Shot Rifle Assoc. Forum talk about breech seating bullets a lot. ( http://www.assra.com/cgi-bin/yabb/YaBB.pl?board=reload) You might ask them.
  12. There are several makes tang mounted sites that work well. If long range means several hundred yards, rather than all the way back to end of the pistol pits, then you need a high quality soule type sight, like an MVA, or Baldwin, or Shaver. Don't go cheap on a sight, especially if you want to walk up front and claim 1st place. Once you learn how to use them, high quality soule sights a fast to set up and quick to change setting for different yardages. They flat out work every-time. I have use mine for 20 years and no problems.
  13. Well said!! Only one trouble with your suggestion, it would'n favor the local shooters.
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