Uberti Schofield question

[The Polish Pistolero]

Just got a pair of Schofields from another shooter. Was able to shoot one of them since I dropped the other at a holster maker to be patterned. I have no idea how the other shoots, or if it even shoots!

 

The question is since I have no experience with one; Is the primer strike acceptable to be off center? I know the suggestion is to use Federal primers, since I use Winchesters! But, I had a few misfires. They would go off after the second hit. I only had maybe 3 misfires out of 50 rounds. I removed the grips and side plate, and it was quite dirty inside. I cleaned it all up, and lubed the moving parts. I haven't shot it yet to see if that improved it or not!

 

Another thing is the barrel hinge bolt/screw will not loosen. It will just turn, and the back up nut will not remain locked down, so I figure the tab has been twisted off. Any suggestions on holding the head while in-screwing the screw?

 

And one more thing! Under the grip at the main spring tensioner screw, there is a piece of plastic pinched between the screw, and the spring! Is this a modification to make the main spring stiffer?

 

Thanks in advance for any insights! Pp

[SOUTH-PACIFIC,SASS #59402]

IN MY TRAINING THE PLASTIC SHOULD NOT BE THERE IT IE A NOVICE MOD. YOU NEED TO GET A NEW STRAIN SCREW AND GET KNOWABLE HELP TO SET THE HAMMER SPRING TENSION. IT SOUNDS LIKE SOMEONE OVER CUT THE SCREW AND ATTEMPTED TO CORRECT.THE PLASTIC JUST WEARS OUT AFTER TIME. I HAVE FOUND THIS MOD IN NON CASS GUNS BEFORE. WAIT FOR THE OTHER GUN THEN CONPARE THE SAME IS PROBLY IN BOTH GUNS . ANY WAYS DO THE SAME REPAIR TO EACH GUN TO MAKE THEM THE SAME.

[The Polish Pistolero]

Did a bore alignment inspection, and see the cylinder is a bit out of time! Who is a good Schofield smith to time it correctly? This is a Navy Arms Uberti, my other is a Stoeger Uberti.

[Seldom Seen #16162]

Now you know why you got such a good deal from another shooter.

 

Sorry to hear about the problems but it sounds like your gun needs the services of a gunsmith.

[Injun Ryder, SASS #36201L]

Don't know about Uberti's but on the S&W Performance Center Schofields, the barrel joint pivot and joint pivot screw (hinge pin and hinge pin screw - Uberti) do not have a locking tab. If tightened too tight or if lok tite is used, it may be difficult to impossible to loosen. You might try penetrating oil then clean the flat head of the joint pivot (hinge pin) with alcohol to remove the oil. Then press against the clean head of the joint pivot with a rubber pad or something similar as hard as you can and try to remove the screw. (Learned this the hard way - I used lok tite - ONCE!)

 

Also, regarding the misfires, again this applies to the S&W (looks the same on the Uberti schematic I have), but I had a similar problem with off center primer strikes / misfires. After investigating what was happening over a couple of years, I found that the cylinder stop pin (bolt pin - Uberti) was bent and prevented the cylinder stop from engaging, though sporadically. I noticed that, while rapidly cocking the hammer, the cylinder would sometimes over rotate. When I pulled the cylinder stop pin and placed it on a flat surface, I could tell that it was slightly bent. I straightened the pin and have not had an issue since.

[The Polish Pistolero]

Don't know about Uberti's but on the S&W Performance Center Schofields, the barrel joint pivot and joint pivot screw (hinge pin and hinge pin screw - Uberti) do not have a locking tab. If tightened too tight or if lok tite is used, it may be difficult to impossible to loosen. You might try penetrating oil then clean the flat head of the joint pivot (hinge pin) with alcohol to remove the oil. Then press against the clean head of the joint pivot with a rubber pad or something similar as hard as you can and try to remove the screw. (Learned this the hard way - I used lok tite - ONCE!)

 

Also, regarding the misfires, again this applies to the S&W (looks the same on the Uberti schematic I have), but I had a similar problem with off center primer strikes / misfires. After investigating what was happening over a couple of years, I found that the cylinder stop pin (bolt pin - Uberti) was bent and prevented the cylinder stop from engaging, though sporadically. I noticed that, while rapidly cocking the hammer, the cylinder would sometimes over rotate. When I pulled the cylinder stop pin and placed it on a flat surface, I could tell that it was slightly bent. I straightened the pin and have not had an issue since.

Thanks! I removed the bolt, and sure as s#*t, it was slightly bent! I went ahead and ordered a new one, incase I weakened the one from the gun. I did use a bit of heat, and quenched in oil to harden it back. Did that before with a chisel and it made it too brittle, and shattered when I hit it!

 

Still working on the pivot, but I don't want to heat it much so it ruins the bluing! Going to try a heat gun when I get it from storage. If he used red Loctite, I'll need the heat! Might try the wifes hair dryer tonight, and see if it gets it! I did the de-greasing, and have a rubber grip pad for jars. So, with any luck! From a gunsmith video I watched on assembly/dis-assembly of one of these, it was emphasized to align the tab on the head of the receiving side of the pivot bolt with notch in barrel! I figure either the other feller broke the tab, or it never had one like you are thinking and he glued it in! I'll see, when I get it apart.

[Injun Ryder, SASS #36201L]

Thanks! I removed the bolt, and sure as s#*t, it was slightly bent! I went ahead and ordered a new one, incase I weakened the one from the gun. I did use a bit of heat, and quenched in oil to harden it back. Did that before with a chisel and it made it too brittle, and shattered when I hit it!

 

Still working on the pivot, but I don't want to heat it much so it ruins the bluing! Going to try a heat gun when I get it from storage. If he used red Loctite, I'll need the heat! Might try the wifes hair dryer tonight, and see if it gets it! I did the de-greasing, and have a rubber grip pad for jars. So, with any luck! From a gunsmith video I watched on assembly/dis-assembly of one of these, it was emphasized to align the tab on the head of the receiving side of the pivot bolt with notch in barrel! I figure either the other feller broke the tab, or it never had one like you are thinking and he glued it in! I'll see, when I get it apart.

 

Glad that you found the bent pin. I just straightened mine, no heat or quench. The S&W pin might be a smaller diameter though.

 

I also used the rubber grip for jars. It took some effort on the blue loktite but I finally got it. Might be a way to use a small C clamp to get a better grip if needed.

[Blackey Cole]

I had lassiter smooth my uberti no2s last year they came back so much better than they left felt like sandpaper when you worker the action now they're smooth as glass. I had bob mernickle build me a pair of holster I tried Kirkpatrick but they messed up twice. Now bobs making me a rig for my usfa saas and ruger Omg. Hopefully I'll have them by eot.