Juan Solo

Surprised no one mentioned this, but with the pick-n-pluck foam (or any foam really) a popular durability upgrade is to use plasti-dip on the foam after you pluck it. Its very common in the 3-gun and PRS cases and it really does make it substantially more durable. You dont need to soak the foam, just give it like 2-3 light coats so that it doesnt collapse/seperate. Plus it helps keep the foam from absorbing oil and moisture.

If this is for pistols just make one yourself out of a 357 case, just slightly expand the mouth to match the chamber, notch the back to fit a screw driver and stuff 'er in while turning.

Probably more offers on snipers hide or arf. My 1873 isn't drilled for a scope base =)

Did you try SASS I seem to remember it being all caps but I could be mistaken

Whats wrong with the dark series? Its not intended for CAS but to folks who would rather have a lever gun over an AR or Mini 14 (or perhaps they live somewhere where an AR isnt allowed). Different strokes for different folks is all.

I often do the same thing (also left eye -- rigght handed). Usually its a combination of feeling in the "zone" and shooting as fast as I can cock instead of as fast as I can point/aim, and the fact that as i get going on a string i tend to shoot a little higher each shot after recoving from recoil.

If number 4 is still available after EOT let me know

Still available?

I'd be fine with that as it's in the right era

By the time it came around the heyday was sunset. I think the current year cut off they have is just about perfect for what I think of as a "classic" cowboy

I use media and a rotary separator, makes it painless and super quick. Even with that I like my loaded rounds to look like white gold shiny so I borrow a trick from the factories and actually toss the completed rounds in walnut impregnated with a healthy dose of turtle wax polishing compound for 20 minutes or so.

4.5 under a 250 should be fine. I shoot 4.6 under a 200gr and find it to be extremely accurate and very light recoil. I do use Magnum primers though for a complete burn. It is dirty though, no getting around that.

Quite a few mechanical differences actually. The lever cams where the springs ride and the lever/lifter springs are very different. The carrier and the lever arm, the arm has a ball on the end and the channel it rides in is different as well as a slight change to the carrier to eject brass forward more. The firing pin extension has the drop safety in it. The main spring and the way it fits on the hammer is more like a SAA. The miroku seems more like a refinement of the 73 more than an attempt at a clone.

Don't forget the rebate

Thank you!