Juan Solo

I just got an '87 back from Lassiter this week. Stand up guy and its like a whole new gun. Not sure what he does, but the drop 2 and action work make it a whole lot easier to run as the lever just leaps forward to toss the spent hulls out. Its so damn good, it basically runs itself.

Quick and easy DIY is to get 2 3/16" leather strips about 6 feet long, cross them at the center then do a cobra knot around the lever. Thick, soft, and about 6 bucks at michael's or hobby lobby.

Clean Shot by Shooter's World is a SMOKELESS powder now so dont order it thinking you're getting the old stuff.

Ruskin hangs it up in the summer, only 1 or 2 more matches left i believe before they start again in sept/october time frame

1 Miss imo, he put 4 shotgun shells down range

Russel's Western Wear i know carries Stetson and Resistol as well as a few cheaper brands and has a few stores in the area. I picked up a nice Stetson from them at a decent price

I refinish mine similar to the above. I use citristrip, and a plastic scraper to get the poly off, and then stain it with a couple of the different walnuts mixed together to get the color i like. I also use tru-oil to finish although i sand the first 2 coats with 600 grit to fill the grain and then finish as usual.

The firing pin on the mirokus is a complete non-issue. The hammer can be set so light that it wont even stay pushed against the firing pin extension when the rifle is held vertically. There is not much to gain via a 1 piece pin in the new winchesters to make it worth the investment.

You resize the hulls base, then load. Super sizer is quick and easy and is the only stand alone hull base sizer I know of.

I load in a garage in Florida. Powder and primer storage isn't a big deal. Keep the powder in the original containers, and put that in an air tight container which you can buy at Target for 20 bucks or less. I also store primers the same way although they aren't really climate sensitive. The big issue you will have is rusting dies and steel. You can try keeping everything oiled or waxed with a micro-crystaline wax or paste wax. Or you can do what I do and bring dies and powder measure inside for storage. The rest of my equipment like the press, my digital scale, wrenches etc all have been fine over the last 3 years on account of them being aluminum. The few steel parts I liberally oil, wax, or grease depending on function. As for the heat, I put in a portable AC in the garage that I run when I'm going to get a session in...and a fan.

To add to that, this was really only an issue in 40, not in 9mm.

I've reloaded a lot of these for other competitive sports. 147 is actually the prefered weight in those as you can get less of a snap and more of a push for the same power factor. Win 231 is also a favorite powder of a lot of the folks shooting as its economical to load and clean. You can basically just load it anywhere in the range of 3gr min to 3.4 max and get soft shooting rounds compared to factory. I also used to load the 115s at 4.4 grains and once again was extremely soft and consistent

Another common spot when swapping hammers is that the divot in the frame doesnt allow for the proper travel. check if loosening the grip frame a touch fixes it, if it does thats often the indication that the tail of the pawls are getting stuck on the frame and not moving away enough

Can you ship FFl to ffl? if so, and its 357/38 i'll take it!

if you take some kind of electronic payment i'll take the pad