The Polish Pistolero

One thing I'd like to find is a 10 gauge shell holder! However, I have my 10 gauge Sizemaster that perhaps MEC has the depriming kit for one of those!

It blows out a bit! I crimp them a lot more then stated in an above post, but I use a pair of needle nose pliers and give the hull a few twists around the closed pliers! Not enough to make a flair just to straighten out the mouth! I have to admit, my pattern is the same with the 1/2" fiber wad, as with the BP10 wad! However, like in my video way back on page one or two, I drop 60 grains of APP through my Size-Master MEC, nitro card, wad and 1 1/8oz of shot! So, it leaves about a 1/2" void above the overshot card and glue it down with DUCO or now Super Seal! Its twice as much glue for the same price as DUCO! My UMC brass is a bit longer, so when I crimp it, I have to stop short or it will choke the shell down to an extra full turkey choke size! I did see a neat modification to the shells! I haven't done it, but might. Fill a de-primed shell with a 1/4" of lead (molten) and after its cooled, drill out the flash hole and primer pocket, thus adding an extra bit of weight to chuck spent hulls from the barrels! It may be a time to drill out the pocket to accept 209's and increase the flash from the primer!

You will be fine! I've done a 2 day 10 stage match without doing a thing till after I goy home! My '51 Navy's get a bit stiff after 5 stages in the rotation, but just a dry wipe on the cylinder face, and all good again! Another thing, Black MZ, is FFFg but nowhere on the bottle says that! I use APP or Shocky Gold which is a premium APP in FFFg for cartridges, and FFg in the brass shotshells. However I've used FFFg in the shotshells, and couldn't tell the difference! The only reason I don't use Black MZ, is price! Normally its a couple bucks more then APP! Have a good shoot this weekend! And keep yer powder dry!

Black MZ is made by APP for Alliant! If you were to talk to either of their tech lines, mopping and using lube is discouraged! When I have used the 10 gauge wads, I get a real goo in the barrels. When I get home, I spray all the guns down with Simple Green or Windex with out ammonia in the formula. (I did use ammonia once, and it took spots of bluing off my Ruger's!) Afterwards I spray everything down with WD-40 (for what WD-40 is designed for) to disperse any water in the Simple Green or Windex! Then swab out with Hoppe's, and wipe down. Everything comes out like new! Oh, by the way, after you shoot, and you retrieve your brass, drop it in a container of vinegar and water! Then tumble like normal!

I have used the 10 gauge plastic wads also, my only complaint was the residue in the barrel afterwards! Perhaps since I use APP, with a very light charge load, is why I don't blow a hole in my pattern! Another thing about Magtec brass, is I have found a few with the flash hole off center and have broke the de-priming pin on the RCBS die tool! Now, all my brass are opened up and aligned! As for the other pards comment about the "C" clips slipping and not keeping the de-priming held securely, I used some collet rings that have a set screw on the shaft! Problem solved! Found them at True Value for about .50 cents each, so not a big investment!

I only do 12 ga. brass! I started with the Magtec from BPI, and came across a ammo can of UMC brass once fired! Takes a bit longer to load then smokeless, but its routine now! I use a MEC press to drop, and insert wads by hand, then a RCBS die set to slightly roll crimp then a bead od Duco glue to secure the overshot card! Here's a video link of me: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YFdAHWvyR98 Oh, and its a literal blast to shoot them!