Shane Not Sean

And he does have a good manual (that he's written) that he sells for $5. Much more helpful than the factory manual.

Problem solved, and a big thanks to Jim Cunningham at Jim's Eye & Ear. It really was a simple/stupid fix. The set screw in back of the index pad housing base had come loose and was allowing the index pad housing to rotate. Back in business (or hobbyness, rather)!

The index pad housing has a spring, and the index pin has a spring, but I don't see an index shaft listed in the exploded parts diagram. Are you referring to one of those? If so, which?

I've loaded many shells on my 800B/C that I picked up at an estate sale. I’m not sure what I did, but now the cylinder is rotating backwards (counterclockwise). Last thing I did was a powder bushing swap. I’ve looked through the original manual (which isn’t very helpful), and I still can’t figure it out. Seems to have something to do with the positioning of the INDEX PAD, so I’ve tried putting that in various positions but I just can’t get the cylinder to rotate clockwise again. Gotta be a really simple (stupid) alignment fix. Anyone got any ideas? Has anyone come across a better manual than P/W's? Not to detract from my question/problem but I gotta say, while this is an incredible contraption, it is definitely not ADD friendly. So many things going on at once.

Thx for the correction/education, Joe - firing pin extension it is.

that makes sense

This is for those who have modified or replaced their main spring (hammer spring). I just replaced mine with a light strike spring and it barely pushes the firing pin extension. Screwing the tension screw in all the way gets the FP extension pushed all the way in (upon hammer strike) but that seems like defeating the purpose of the light strike spring. I won't get the chance to try it out and see how my primer strikes are for another week or so, so I figured I'd ask - How far does your FP extension get pushed in with your modified main spring or replacement main spring?

Thanks to all the help on my other thread regarding a Red Dot .357 recipe, I got settled on 3.4 grains (with the help of Mudflat Mike today and his chrono). But I had way too much Red Dot in my shot shells, which are pushing 1 1/8 oz of shot. So now if you all wouldn’t mind chiming in on your Red Dot shot shell recipes, I’d appreciate it. If anyone is interested in what I’m reloading with, I’m using a P/W 800B with C upgrade. If you use a P/W and don’t know how many grains you’re throwing, just tell me the powder bushing letter. Thanks again!

Thanks all! My setup landed me around 1.49 OAL (in crimp groove, CheyCast coated), which seems well within the norm described by everyone. Much appreciated.

My manuals say 1.59". Has anyone found a more optimum length for CAS (I'm loading for new vaqueros & uberti 1873).

For the New Vaqueros and Uberti 1873. I want to use Red Dot for my shot shell and metallic hand loading, and I've about got my shot shell dialed in. Now I need to work up my .357. Does anybody have a good .357 Red Dot recipe with 125gr bullets? Not looking for a .38 recipe. Thank you.