Shane Not Sean

Thank you for the explanation on shooting glasses/prescription and where you want the focus to be (and reiteration of the importance of a consistent cheek weld - a good reminder for me to practice that more outside of shooting). Wish I'd seen these shooting glasses posts before I went to the eye doc. Maybe she can give me the frequent flyer rate if I go back in to get a sports prescription.

So far, the pistol and rifle targets have been mostly painted white, and getting my rifle and revolver sites on those have not been a problem. Just went to the eye doc and my RX has changed a little. We'll see if that helps. The instructions at our events for the number of shotgun rounds are usually just "...and shotgun as needed" (i.e., as few or as many as it takes you).

Thank you for playing gentlemen. Had a feeling this would be the way my thread would go, but figured I’d give it a try anyway. My issues are numerous but are easily remedied by reloading and shooting again, but thought I’d see if there might be a way to get my shot placement a little more accurate so as to avoid that extra reload (or two). Here’s the background for my original question. I just attended my second CAS event and had a blast (even in the pacific NW rain). Two of the stages had 3 shotgun knock downs lined up right behind each other. Most everyone was taking the entire row down with one shot. I asked my mentor where to aim to get’em all in one shot. He told me, I tried that. I’m partly colored blind, it was raining, I was wearing my distance glasses (as I always do) for eye protection and that has the adverse effect of making the front bead blurry. Long story short, I still could not discern the first target from the second target from the third target, and could not tell if I was aiming “just above the head of the first target” because it was blending in with the other ones behind it I may try some stages in the future with only non-Rx safety glasses, though that might have an adverse effect on my rifle accuracy. We’ll see. Thanks anyway.

If they're banned in the rulebook, I missed it. Has anyone put these on? Any idea what type of rear sights were in use back then, other than the standard elevator style that came with my 1873? Considering something for my 1897 (if legal).

And he does have a good manual (that he's written) that he sells for $5. Much more helpful than the factory manual.

Problem solved, and a big thanks to Jim Cunningham at Jim's Eye & Ear. It really was a simple/stupid fix. The set screw in back of the index pad housing base had come loose and was allowing the index pad housing to rotate. Back in business (or hobbyness, rather)!

The index pad housing has a spring, and the index pin has a spring, but I don't see an index shaft listed in the exploded parts diagram. Are you referring to one of those? If so, which?

I've loaded many shells on my 800B/C that I picked up at an estate sale. I’m not sure what I did, but now the cylinder is rotating backwards (counterclockwise). Last thing I did was a powder bushing swap. I’ve looked through the original manual (which isn’t very helpful), and I still can’t figure it out. Seems to have something to do with the positioning of the INDEX PAD, so I’ve tried putting that in various positions but I just can’t get the cylinder to rotate clockwise again. Gotta be a really simple (stupid) alignment fix. Anyone got any ideas? Has anyone come across a better manual than P/W's? Not to detract from my question/problem but I gotta say, while this is an incredible contraption, it is definitely not ADD friendly. So many things going on at once.

Thx for the correction/education, Joe - firing pin extension it is.

that makes sense

This is for those who have modified or replaced their main spring (hammer spring). I just replaced mine with a light strike spring and it barely pushes the firing pin extension. Screwing the tension screw in all the way gets the FP extension pushed all the way in (upon hammer strike) but that seems like defeating the purpose of the light strike spring. I won't get the chance to try it out and see how my primer strikes are for another week or so, so I figured I'd ask - How far does your FP extension get pushed in with your modified main spring or replacement main spring?

Thanks all! My setup landed me around 1.49 OAL (in crimp groove, CheyCast coated), which seems well within the norm described by everyone. Much appreciated.

My manuals say 1.59". Has anyone found a more optimum length for CAS (I'm loading for new vaqueros & uberti 1873).