Tulsey, SASS#11236

The plastic in the old Winchester AA wads seems to have more often snap off pedals than other old wads

The red wad someone recommended to you is the old AA wad or copy. it was for heavy loads even though the pedals would only go up about 1/18 ounce worth and was sometimes used with old hulls years ago that high base wads. The Winchester version was discontinued a few years ago. People often recommended them for black powder loads when people were still loading full strength amounts of powder and 1 1/8 ounce of shot. The recommendations you have received are much more current for what people are loading. If you happened to have a lot of those red wads, you could use them up by putting a filler wad to get them to the right height for the load you want. I have seen a lot of black powder shotgun shooters trying to find them so you might be able to trade them for just what you want

I received an e-mail from Midway on some ammo on sale.. Nothing really cowboy oriented, but caught my eye with some prices. 5 pack 12 ga fed slugs $4.99 or a buck a pop. Heavy shot dead coyote $78.18 for 10 3 inch which their match says $7.82 per round . Got me thinking with 9mm 40 45 at some places a buck a round a buck a round for 12 ga slugs is not too bad. Flip side, I could never see me shooting a $8 a round at a coyote. Just caught my attention

If I were looking to shoot a 10 ga double just for SASS and had the set up to load 12 ga, I would search the internet for the best deal for some 10-to 12 ga converters like Little Skeeter or others. Buy a half-dozen or so and use your 12 ga cowboy loads in the 10 ga. I have used the 12 to 4.10 and 20 to 28 converters and they worked just fine for light loads. A whole lot cheaper than assembling loading equipment and components. You might want to try two of them and see if it would work for you.

I will take it. I need a 45 colt / 45 acp revolver send me a private message and we can see how to make this happen

Years ago some guy gave me some brass that he had dyed purple. I loaded it, but never shot it and don't know how it would work, but it sure looked different,

My guess is this revolver was made at the time Colt was marking their 38 S&W guns as 38 NP or .38 New Police so that the marking 38 S&W would mean 38 S&W Special. The 38 Colt NP rounds were made for a long time and the only difference between them and .38 S&W was the 38 Colt NP had a flat point

Some if the old Speer manuals show their 148 gr hbwc bullet seated out to about regular length The hollow base 358 bullet sealed well and accuracy was as good as factory Missouri bullet has a S&W bullet I never found it made much difference. never saw much accuracy difference in shooting 355 9mm and 358 38 or 357 in the appropriate ruger blackhawk cylinders either

Academy and Atwoods around here often have good prices on new Heritage and Ruger Wranglers. The only bad thing I could say about Heritage is you have to remember to check the safety is off before your time to shoot

It seems my Browning 92 will go longer between cleaning than my Marlin 94 shooting black powder and subs, I started using a Marlin because it is so easy to tear down and clean between matches. When either starts to have problems, a little lubricant will get them through the day then it is time to do a good cleaning., In usual times the rifle would have 60 rounds shot through in a day compared to only 30 for each pistol. The rifle chamber would have 60 rounds put though it and each revolver cylinder would probably have five or six so the revolvers have fewer rounds and less buildup. Over a period of time if you don't do a good cleaning you can have some light hammer hits with any firearm having a moving firing pin if you don't keep it clean

I found some balloon 44 Special and 44 Russian cases in a can I had sorted out years ago. Could I safely use them for black powder reloading