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Wade Butcher

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    Greenville, SC

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  1. That's an interesting thought. I purchased a new 2020 Colt Python earlier this year, and I sent it to Heffron Precision for a really good action job. (Mike Heffron has been the authority on Colt Pythons, old and new, for decades now. In fact, as I understand it after speaking with him at length, the older Colt Pythons that come back to the Colt factory for work are sent to Heffron Precisio, because no one at the Colt factory is as knowledgeable about these particular handguns as ol' Mike.) Anyway... Mike has posted several places online about the proprietary new steel that Colt has been using for the past couple years on their Pythons, Anacondas, etc. (And I imagine they might use the same steel on their SAAs too.) Mike says the new steel is HARD! Like, harder than hard. Ridiculously strong. Their tolerances (again, on the new Colt Pythons, Anacondas, etc) are extremely tight, and everything works like clockwork. I've heard deeply mixed reviews on 3rd Gen Colts. However, if Colt's new wonder steel has found its way into their SAAs, then I'd be very interested in giving Colt a good consideration. Until then, I'd rather stick with Standard or USFA. W.B.
  2. Thanks for the advice, Pettifogger. I just bought a matching set of NOS Taurus Gauchos on GB, and I got them for a steal! Only $1000 for the pair! =) W.B.
  3. I was thinking of one of the matte nickel Rodeo II models. (I've read they were 100% USA-made.) LOL That's good to know. Now I just need to worry about parts availability. W.B.
  4. Hello, everyone. I'd like to add a high-end SAA to the stable, and I'm torn between a late model USFA (100% USA made) and a brand new model from Standard Manufacturing. (I'm skipping the Colts for now.) I've read that the USFA may be a little better quality, but that's arguable since Standard now employs all the old USFA CNC machines, programs, master gunsmiths, etc. Regardless, I'm willing to splurge a bit on an old stock / NIB USFA pistol, since that seems to double as an investment piece. My main concern with buying the USFA is the lack of warranty. Honestly, I don't really mind paying for repairs and maintenance, but I do worry that high quality, USFA-worthy parts won't be available if/when needed. Is the lack of warranty (the replacement of genuine NOS USFA parts or the same quality aftermarket) anything to worry about, or am I just being paranoid? Thanks in advance for helping me make this decision. W.B.
  5. Thanks, Coffinmaker! That's just the kind of answer I was hoping for. One follow-up question, if you don't mind: Is all that work (from pulling the barrel to clocking) something that could be done by a good cowboy gunsmith (hopefully, for under $2,000)? Thanks again! W.B.
  6. Oh, my gosh. Thank you for bringing that to my attention. Edited and email removed. W.B.
  7. Once upon a time, I had a sweet little El Patron Competition in stainless steel, but I sold it like a fool. I'd love to replace it with either the standard El Patron model or the upgraded Competition model with the lower hammer, made in stainless steel, and chambered in the same 45 Colt. (I'd slightly prefer the 5.5" barrel, but the 4.75" barrel would be great too.) Thanks in advance for your help. W.B.
  8. All good solutions. Unfortunately, I think the Uberti Trapper only holds 8+1, and I'd prefer 10+1. Also, I'd prefer the 45 Colt cartridge over the 44s to match my 45 Colt revolvers. That said, you've all given me a lot to think about, and I appreciate it. Thanks again. W.B.
  9. Wow. Thanks for all the advice, everyone. Including the annealing idea. And just to clarify, would a good cowboy gunsmith be able to shorten the barrel of a Henry 1860? Thanks again! W.B.
  10. The HRA Original 1860 Henry comes in a much shorter carbine barrel, but it's only available in 44-40. I'd much prefer 45 Colt. I emailed Henry, but they don't do custom work. I'm curious how difficult the job might be for a good cowboy gunsmith. (I'm not worried about the expense, but I'd rather not have to build a completely new rifle from scratch, either.) The 1860 has that iconic rotating loading tube at the muzzle, so I'm thinking that a middle section of the barrel would have to be removed, then the rotating muzzle welded back onto the remaining shorter barrel. (Or something like that.) I don't have an 1860 Henry to personally inspect (yet), so I'm relying on other Henry owners / enthusiasts to tell me what they think. W.B.
  11. Title says it all. Thanks in advance. W.B.
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