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Tequila Shooter

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Posts posted by Tequila Shooter

  1. I’m growing weary of the “out of stock” for ½ inch fiber wads for shot shell reloading.  I’ve been thinking of making my own (un-lubed) wads but I’m coming up empty on finding the fiber that’s used, anyone know what/where it can be found?  Also if anyone has done this at home any thoughts or recommendations?

  2. 10 hours ago, Rex M Rugers #6621 said:

    ?? Ya got me wondering.  What spring do you mean ?? The hammer spring was already a coil spring.   I'm Curious .

    Rex :D

     

    That’s what I meant, I guess I should’ve been clearer.  NMV which is supposed to be their take on the SAA has coil instead of flat springs.  The Marlin already has coil spring, I wonder if they’ll change that to a flat spring.  Sorry it was a bad joke.

    • Haha 1
  3. I read an article or maybe it was a video that said using a felt wad between the powder and ball was better.  They reasoned it like this when you put lube over the ball the first round will blow the lube in the other chambers out, I don’t think that’s true.  The other thing was that it was messy and the lube was temperature sensitive, with bore butter I see how runny it is when it’s hot out and how stiff it is in the cold.  Now the thinking for using a lubed felt wad was that first if there was any powder sticking to the side of the chamber the wad would push it down so it didn’t get between the ball and the chamber wall.  And of course the wad is less messy on the hands and cylinder.  

    I’m pretty sure everyone does what they feel works best for them and who’s to say what’s right and what’s wrong.

  4. 54 minutes ago, Marshall Matt Dillon said:

    The only shotshell reloader i have is a ponsness warren for my old trapshooting addiction i had for a few years. It is a monster made for pure fast production,,,useless for anything else. 

     

    Ok.  There’s another way to prime them, the way the old timers did.  Get a wooden dowel that’s bigger than the primer pocket but no bigger than ½ inch and a small block of either wood or if you have it some smooth steel.  Place the primer on the block, put the shell on top of the primer then put the dowel in the shell.  Then tap the dowel  down until the primer is seated.  Not the fasted way but it works.  If you decide to get another reloader try to find a MEC JR, there’s a kit that MEC sells (you’ll have to call them because they don’t advertise it) to de-prime, and prime LPP, then you can use the ram to stuff the shells and load the shot.  With the correct bushing you might even be able to load the powder.

  5. 10 hours ago, Marshall Matt Dillon said:

    Got my 2. It has taken me three different places to get 100 hulls. 

     

    I need a better way to put primers in. Will be looking for one of those antique priming tools at gun shows next two weekends. The clamp type. 

     

    If you have a MEC loader you can prime brass shells, I do it all the time.

    • Like 1
  6. Marshall, with brass shells don’t worry about how much of the shell is above the overshot card.  With a star crimp on a plastic hull the column height is very important to get a good crimp, since there’s no star crimp on brass it’s not important.  As others have said I’ve got shells that are different lengths, some with a straight end some with a rolled end and none of it matters.  The only difference with each of them is how they feel when you load them in the barrels, they all shoot the same.

  7. 3 hours ago, Captain Bill Burt said:

    Are they working well for you?

     

    GREAT!  I typically shoot 5 stage local matches and they never give me a problem.  Depending on the weather I may have to spray a little Ballistol on the cylinder ½ way through.  The picture was the first time I opened it up to clean the inside, and to be honest it really didn’t need it, I was just being overly cautious.  I shot last month’s DD twins and they didn’t have a hitch, next month will be Ides.  Love the Frontiersman shooting.

    • Like 3
  8. Given that it seems most prefer a written copy and having read that the cost to run the glossy magazine style is too high for monthly publishing here’s an idea.  If I’m correct years ago the Chronicle was in newspaper form.  I wonder if that cost is considerably less and if SASS would consider that form for the months that are only electronic.  I almost hate to say this but maybe it would be an added cost as a subscription for just the newspaper copy to pards that want it that way.  If you don’t want to pay for the paper copy than it would still be available free online. 

  9. +1 to Goody. Mike specializes in C&B and does excellent work.  Don’t be in a rush though, he’s a one man shop and depending on his workload it may take some time, but well worth the wait.  I use 2 Pietta ‘58 NMA’s that he worked on and can run a whole season with only cleaning the cylinder and barrel.  

    • Like 1
  10. On 12/18/2020 at 6:13 PM, Clueless Bob said:

    By far, the "Easiest" to clean, Marlin.  One bolt, lever comes out, bolt slides to the rear.  Start cleaning.  

     

    I'm using a rounded 1.0cc scoop of 3F black below a 135gr bullet.  If there was a way to remove the lifter in my 73 without taking it completely apart, I wouldn't have to clean the parts under the side plates.  They stay that clean.  The lifter is another story but blow by has never been so bad that it affected operation during a match.

     

    How to remove the carrier without disassembly. 

     

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=v7OVeAkgxiY

     

     

     

     

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