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Everything posted by Stopsign32v

  1. AH! I got it figured out. So the screw with the spring is actually a button. Pressing it in is the only way to release the forend. By me trying to force it off I guess I backed out the screw. I screwed the lose screw back in with the button pressed and now the gun functions fine. Locks up tighter than a bank vault too! Just fired off some bird shot in the back yard. Works perfect!
  2. Firing pin moves freely and easily. Just checked by holding down the triggers and pushing the ears, then pushing the firing pins back in.
  3. And I remember now, this IS the forend that was originally on the shotgun when he shot it. I remember because of the 4 dots. Also the seller sent me pictures and I just looked. This is the original forend that he had on it.
  4. Ok I tapped tapped tapped gently and got it to open all the way and removed the shells. Then removed the forend and this is what I got. A screw backed out all the way which no doubt didn't help anything. And the front thing does thread and there is a spring.
  5. Its been so long there is no telling. I don't believe so though. But you guys seem to be right. All Stevens 235s I can see do not have this forend.
  6. Yes, it does open with it off. This is when the barrels would open further than they should (not sure if this is normal or not.) How do you fit it correctly? I'm not new to double barrels and how they go together. I just don't want to force something when it shouldn't be. The knob on the front really has me wondering. Does it do anything?
  7. I don't remember what model it is. Maybe a 225 or 235? Anyways I got it and put it together a while back and have never shot it. I put two empty brass casings in it and I cannot get them out. From what I remember it would at first open all the way, as in hinge too far sometimes. Then it stopped doing that and now it seems to not open quite far enough to take the shells out. The lip of them hits the receiver. I put it away for months and just pulled it out to look at and would like to finally get it operational. I've tried to open it and can't get it to open easily and don't want to damage it. So I wanted to come here and ask you guys how it actually works. In particular, what is that knob at the front of the forearm and how does it work? As well, it is missing the rear screw to the trigger guard, does anyone know where I can find a replacement? I know it shot by the owner because I saw it. Only when it was taken apart I apparently can't put it back together correctly.
  8. Thanks for the reply. I can get a Rossi with the old bolt in it for $400. I could swap the bolts and probably still break even. Would it be worth the hassle in your mind? Would it cause smoothness issues in the action and would the headspace issue be something you could do? 



    1. Nate Kiowa Jones #6765

      Nate Kiowa Jones #6765

      It could cause all the above. You gotta keep in mind, Rossi has been making these guns since the 60's so the parts will vary from gun to gun year to year. Also, the bolts are caliber specific.

      As for the headspace if it ends up excessive that will require removing the barrel setting the shoulder back by one thread thickness, trimming the chamber face to the correct headspace then reaming the chamber back to spec. That job alone is $300.

    2. Stopsign32v


      I see, I would probably pass on it then. Thank you for the advice. 


      I plan to get your DVD and tune kit. The issue I'm running into with my Rossi is it is messing up the rims of my brass. I took one coil off the extractor spring and it made it much better but there is still a small mark on all of them. Would the DVD show how to get rid of this or will I have to live with it? Brass falls a foot behind me when cycling. 

    3. Nate Kiowa Jones #6765

      Nate Kiowa Jones #6765

      you mean the ejector. That's the plunger part in the face of the breech bolt. If the marks are on the rim you will want to reduce the extractor, the bar on top of the bolt. The DVD shows all of this. Use my ejector spring, too.

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