Fireball #7709 Life

I'll take 'em. Sending PM.

Sending PM

PM sent on Olights

22 long rifle or 22 mag?

Sent an email to the address you provided, did you get it?

That says it all. If you have one and don't need it any longer, PM me a price. Thanks!

I'm still laughing!

BTT

BTT.

There are at least three types of firing pins. The very early(a couple thousand) guns used a different firing pin than the majority. That screw retains it. There is no cross pin like later guns/ repro's. 1901's used a firing pin retraction lever, so those firing pins are different. That is also a feature that didn't make it into any repro's.

This illustrates the difference in magazine mounting and 1 screw versus 2 forends. Also the 4th carrier sized screw on the left of some originals. Right, in use main match, 4 digit early gun. Left, Lassiter modified, IAC setup as a match gun. I still use my originals as the wood is less blocky, the butt stock has a better rise for the high receiver on all of them and I think the action "feel" is better.

The 10 gauge guns, both original 1887 and all 1901s were 1/4" longer. The Chiappa is based on the 10 gauge 1901. All Chinese guns and the original 12 gauge guns were 1/4" shorter. In the pics, top, original 1901 10 gauge, 2nd from top, one of my match guns, a very early, original 12 gauge(with early style firing pin), 3rd from top, IAC Chinese 12 gauge, bottom, original 10 gauge 1887 10 gauge(converted to 12). Dual extractors were introduced to deal with paper shells swelling. All reproductions have dual extractors(not an advantage for how we use the guns). Dual forend screws came about with the "2nd gen" originals and the change in magazine mounting. There are at least, 4 different hammers and 5 different triggers in the originals. There are other trivial differences. Number of carrier screws, additional screws for extractor function. IAC's have a combination of metric and SAE screw threads(probably based on a repaired original they copied). The list goes on. A properly functioning original, that has had the chambered lengthened, will function modern plastic 2 3/4" shells fine. The longer ones may barely rub on the way out, but it is not a problem. The amount of incorrect information quoted on the internet can be dizzying. I've lived with, worked on and competed with these guns since the early 90's. It's a passion.

Only a copy of the 1901 in regards to the 3rd locking point(hinged lever), all the "china ones" are based on the 12 gauge frame of the 1887, whereas the original 1901 was ONLY ever available in 10 gauge. The Chiappa is a copy of the original 1901 in size(1/4" difference in receiver and bolt length vs. the 1887), but is chambered in 12 gauge and has the hinged lever locking point.

No mention by the OP what 87 he's starting with. I don't recommend Chiappa's, they're built on the 10 gauge frame and are very bulky and heavy compared to an IAC or original. IAC's are the best bet for a gun that will should need minimal to no repairs, originals will need the chambers lengthened and have a host of other relatively common, but fixable, things that might be wrong. I'll mention the PW87 long enough to say, don't bother, they were the IAC rejects that someone decided to "repair" and sell, they reflect the less than $300 price tag for which they sold at the time. The Mod's. The Drop 2 was engineered by myself and Texas John Critter back in the 90's. It requires specific ammunition no longer commonly available and such, no one is doing it. Coyote Cap pioneered the Load 2 about the same time and Lassiters version (2 Shot maybe? The names only matter when talking about this stuff) I'm unsure of when it came about, but I believe he was messing with them around the same time, possibly a little later. I mention all this, because it matters. They all achieve a similar result, but in vastly different ways. The vast majority of IAC's with the what folks refer to as "coyote caps", are basically a little touchy for consistent, hard work, it WILL allow you to also load and use the mag tube, the same as the Drop 2 did. The "CAP special's"(carrier pictured above) had a different system and did not allow the use of the mag tube(or at least all I've handled wouldn't). Not a big deal for how we use them, but details matter. Lassiters version uses a different system, that also doesn't allow use of the mag tube, but is a much more consistent mod(of those still available) for the way we use the guns. For what he charges, I don't see it making sense to try it yourself and possibly muck up parts that are unavailable easily. There's welding and milling involved, on more than the carrier, he does work to the bolt and the chamber mouth that I know of. The IAC's can need other little things to run right and he may do some or all of those things as well. I suggest you talk to him. As I am no expert on his mod, still running my original version, I don't feel qualified to try to explain all he does.

As mentioned in the above posts. You have to do some due diligence.

That's probably an administrative cost SASS HQ doesn't want to absorb, for something that doesn't bring them any profit.(I wouldn't) They'd have to pay someone to either setup additional electronic means for some current membership database to do it automatically, or one of the girls in the office is doing more clerical inputs manually forever. Either way, cost with no return. Additionally, and more importantly, just being a SASS member in good standing with the founding organization is no guarantee they're good to do business with. Most are, but just because you paid dues to an organizing body doesn't make you anything other than a customer/member. If you were honest before, you still are, if you weren't, paying $35(or whatever it is) didn't magically buy you a dose of integrity. Further, some guests are genuine folks looking to get into the sport. We're almost constantly working with new shooters in this area. I send all of them to the Wire at some point. Limiting the availability to trade with like minded fellows in the same sport is key to the continued health of the game. The struggle to get new shooters outfitted is real and when there are folks hanging up their spurs, it's an opportunity for their legacy to continue on, while helping someone else.

Buyers and sellers have their minimum threshold for a deal. I've had some deals that went on for weeks, phone calls, emails, more pics, silence, more emails and then we consummated it and everyone was happy. I just did one with another long time member here this week: 2 pics and we're both shipping money and merchandise same day. Only you can decide your comfort level with a deal. IT COSTS NOTHING TO WALK AWAY.

So, when the money shows up, send him the brass. Selling is a lot safer(you hold the item until you have the money).

The larger portion of scam beginnings(or attempts) come from WTB posts. I'm always looking for something it seems. The "my friend has just what you're looking for" is a bright red flag, 99.9% of those will NOT be legit. As is most anything that seems to good to be true, that new vaquero for $500, just go ahead forget it. Check the sellers profile for some longevity here, profile created today? Yesterday? MAYBE last week? only posts are in response to WTB? Walk away. Get a pic with todays date or your name hand written on a piece of paper with the item. If the seller is genuine, they'll understand in this day and age. Don't buy the "I'm lucky to be able to PM" For buyer and seller, is it a pain to do some of this? Yup. Tracking down a scammer and getting your money back is a bigger pain. Trust me, I've done it.(and was lucky) If all that passes muster and the hair on yer neck still ain't happy, speak to the seller on the phone. Most of us aren't big on that these days, but you can tell a lot from the tone of a conversation. If any or all of that isn't according to Hoyle, walk away. There isn't a thing you're gonna buy or sell here that won't or can't be found somewhere else...eventually.LOL

My main match shotgun for the last 25+ years!

That feature is part of the barrel "takedown extension" that this barrel threads into...

This is correct. The thread diameter is also smaller on the takedown version. The extractor cuts are the only easy way to tell, unless you know the dimensions. The listed barrel is for a takedown model.(unfortunately for me) And is still available!

I'd love to venture into FA's again, unfortunately I think you have them all

I had a couple 81's years ago in 300. Even managed to find one with the detachable mag. Very unique. These days I only keep a little ammo on hand for my Great grandfathers 99 and my grandfathers 99, both in 300. Anyway, took me a minute to find the brass. You'll have to reload, I'll send ya 20 new cases and a few once fired(for dummy rounds or whatever). Apparently I sold the bulk of the used ones, I assume your address hasn't changed from last week?

I can spare some, I know I saved a small amount. May not be a lot, I just sold a bunch, let me see how much I have left.