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Sedalia Dave

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Posts posted by Sedalia Dave

  1. 1 hour ago, Tequila Shooter said:

    I load APP on a XL650 with never a problem.  Two things I do use a large charge bar no matter how much the charge, pour the powder into the hopper through a funnel (it keeps any clumps out of the hopper).


    I made a coarse screen for the funnel I use when filling the powder hopper. Catches any clumps and those little desiccant bags.

  2. 10 hours ago, Pat Riot, SASS #13748 said:

    Yep, single  target 48" away...sounds about right. :P


    It'll also be 3 feet wide and 5 feet tall. :o :P



    And several people will still miss it. :lol::D

    • Haha 2

  3. 18 minutes ago, Chas B. Wolfson, SASS #11104 said:

    :FlagAm:  I would like to replicate what the Port A John truck uses at places like EOT to connect to a RV waste valve to pump out the tanks.  Getting ready for our trip to TN and this would be useful for the two weeks parked.  Truck comes in to pump the Port A Johns at the range.  Maybe this is just an adapter to the waste valve that has a coupler attached that would connect to the truck wand.  

    Thanks for any info.


    Chas BB)



    Your best bet is to contact the Port A John people.

  4. 17 minutes ago, Garrison Joe, SASS #60708 said:

    It's not static electricity that blows up black powder (or even substitutes).  It's some sort of hot spark, usually.   (Let's exclude the random and vaporized smoker who drops an ash in the powder.)  


    What has been used in the way of a spark to set off BP for almost a thousand years?    Flint striking hardened steel, shaving off a real hot fragment of the steel, which burns in the oxygen of the air.   That heat and fragment of burning metal is the source to ignite in the flash pan and then the barrel.


    What common source of flint or quartz containing material could fall into our black powder and get itself into a spot where steel could be shaved off?  Easy to think of two!   A chunk of silicate rock that was in the wood of the tree that was burned to charcoal that was added to the BP mix.   Or, sand, dirt, floor sweepings that got added to the BP at the loader's bench.    And then where's the steel?   In the moving parts of SOME powder measures.    So, although it may not be ALL the precautions needed to load BP/subs safely in a progressive loader, one big rule (even published by Lyman) is: use a brass or other non-steel part powder measure for measuring your powder.   


    Revolutionary War soldiers even knew not to use steel measures - they used horn, leather or copper powder flasks and a dispensing measure, commonly brass.   Not iron and steel.   Besides, iron and steel will rust quickly from the nitrates (or in subs, other oxidizing compounds) in the powder residue coating the measure after use.


    So, yes, I have loaded thousands of .45 Colt rounds, real BP,  on a Dillon progressive.   Using a Lyman BP measure that has brass parts, and aluminum hopper.   BP is not left in the measure after the loading session.   Handle thrown manually with the belled case up under the powder-thru-belling tube at the expansion/powder charge station.   Never a problem.   Don't do that if you have operational problems with primer tubes exploding, however!


    No static grounding is needed.  Clean up powder measure and bench after loading to remove the corrosive nitrate particles that may have escaped.  


    Good luck, GJ


    ^^^^ THIS ^^^^



    The reason for the metal hopper also has nothing to do with static electricity it has to do with redirecting the blast should the powder be ignited. Rather that it being directed outwards into your face it is directed up and away from the operator.


    If you want buy an aluminum sleeve with an ID just slightly larger than the OD of the hopper on your machine. Slide it down and let it rest on the metallic part of the unit where the clear hopper meets the rest of the unit. If it is too big add some support screws.


    One bit of advice when loading APP or 777. after you have completed loading take your powder measure apart and thoroughly clean it with soap and water. Otherwise it will corrode.  If you are going to load over several days you don't need to clean every day but once you are done for a week or more thoroughly clean with soap and water. 



    • Like 1

  5. As a good rule of thumb a telescope mount should be rated to carry at least 3 times of the weight of the telescope. Manufacturers are notorious for selling mounts in package deals that are no where near stable enough for the tubes installed on them. They can balance the weight but are unstable and will frustrate the user in short order.


    At a bare minimum a mount needs to have the ability to support a  North Celestial Pole (NCP) alignment. 


    All reflector style ( Neutonian ) scopes will require the main mirror to be realigned periodically. Not a difficult task but it does require some patience and practice.


    Refractor style scopes  ( think rifle scope) are easier to use but their viewing quality is highly dependent on the quality of the glass used.  They also cost significantly more than reflectors for the same light gathering ability. They require very expensive mounts because all that glass is heavy.

    • Like 1

  6. 9 hours ago, ShadowCatcher said:

    This is what I use and I'm just starting to get into night photography.






    Very nice setup


    When you get some funds, upgrade your mount to something like the SkyView Pro Equatorial Mount or an equivalent German equatorial mount. Be sure it has a polar scope as it is significantly easier to get a good North Celestial Pole (NCP) alignment. With a good NCP you will only need to use the Right Ascension slow motion knob to track objects and keep them centered in the field of view.  


    The bigger mount will be orders of magnitude more stable and will make photography a lot more enjoyable

    • Like 2

  7. 39 minutes ago, Blackwater 53393 said:

    I’m doing a little landscaping!!  They COULD be used in place of some fill dirt, I suppose.  Only problem is that the ground wants to sink !!


    That's why a backhoe or trackhoe is better than a shovel. With the backhoe/trackhoe you can use the bucket to tamp them down and then pack the dirt over them. 


    Just remember the three "S" of dealing with antifa.




    Shut up


    • Like 1
    • Haha 1
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