Reverend P. Babcock Chase

Howdy Texas, I noticed a similar problem while loading my .45 Colt mixed brass. I seat and taper crimp separately. I measured my mixed cases and found that, having set up my crimp station with some of the shorter cases, the longer cases were being over crimped. Trimmed all the cases that were long and the problem went away. By the way, I use a Lyman two step "M" expanding die adjusted to just let the bullet fit the case mouth with almost no "belling". Then with the taper crimp, the case mouth is worked as little as possible. With Cowboy level loads my case life is almost infinite. I can't remember more that a few split cases in 20 years. This is using light, but not gamer, level loads. Rev. Chase

Howdy Myron, Study Red Rider Rudy's photo. It should be perfect for you. It even has snow. Rev. Chase

Howdy Wild Bunch, A club I've shot with restricted shooters to "guns prior to 1912". This made for much more fun. We only used 2 - 5 shot loaded magazines. That let me use a Luger as my reload for the 1911. Further, since it was introduced in 1911, I used a Rem. Model 11 (copy of a Humpback Browning). Since I was never a contender, nobody complained that I was a gamer with the auto shotgun. For me it was just more fun to have a collection of weird guns on the firing line. I dearly wish I had a broom handle Mauser for the game, but can't afford the cost of them these days. Same goes for those early Win. self loader rifles. By the way, I use speed loaders for my Schofields at the loading table during regular CAS matches. Just because I can. They also work for Rem. Conversions. Rev. Chase

Howdy H.K., Does sound like fun, but I kind of agree with Watab. On the other hand, for many of us it would be a good excuse to comb the used gun racks to fill out our arsenal. Rev. Chase

Howdy Fallon, If you're going to mix brass like that you have to expect these illicit pairings. I suggest that you throw a couple of shot shells in with the brass. That way you can be sure that they get to the alter. Rev. Chase Not approved to perform weddings in Connecticut

Howdy Rooster, I'm a terrible note taker/keeper. The only thing that I have found that works for me is to record all the appropriate info on the target I've shot and keep it in a target file in my reloading area. Rev. Chase

I believe that the original pair of chinks was made for Danny Devito's first role in a western. Rev. Chase

Howdy H.K. it's very generous of you to risk a middle third result for this worthwhile experiment. Based on posts here over time, I'm pretty sure we know what the betting is. This is you chance to add to the SASS knowledge base. We await your results and now and forever must consider you a scientist. Rev. Chase

Howdy Quiet, Google "John Wayne Knot". I takes some practice and I too have to relearn it from time to time. When I can, I leave it tied and slip over my head. Hey if it was good enough for the Duke that's all I need to know. Rev. Chase

Wow, You guys are terrific. The above should get me started. Thanks. Rev. Chase

Thanks Fellas, It's sounding like Titewad is what I'm looking for. That and a new MEC bushing or two. Rev. Chase

Howdy Fellas, That's real helpful. I think it gets me close to where I need to be. Hey OLG, don't have any Unique, In fact, all I have is American Select (for .45 Colt & .38), dwindling Clays (Shotshell) and 4198 (45/70 & 30/30 plus others. Never used Unique, but I know that it's popular. Rev. Chase

Fancy! Rev. Chase

Howdy Fellers, Since we all are still having to make do with powders that we can find, I was wondering if any of our cowpokes are using Hodgdon's Titewad for their 12 ga. loads? Specifically in Rem.STS or Win. AA hulls? If you're willing to get really finite, what MEC powder bushing are you using for 7/8th loads? Rev. Chase

Howdy Sarcasm, To be period correct, shotgun chaps would be proper I believe. I would choose the zipper versions (not really correct) If the zipper is hidden. The step in kind are a pain if you have to take your boots off to put them on. Batwings and big hats are from a later period. you'll see them in '30s and '40s westerns. They look cool and nobody will complain if you like that look. I have a set of chinks and that may be a good compromise. I don't wear them when it's hot. Rev. Chase

Howdy Copper, It all depends on how hard you pull the trigger. Rev. Chase

Howdy Snake, Just a thought. My main match hammer double is an old Rossi. I'm very happy with it now that I down load my 12 ga. shells. It's very light and it can really kick with even fairly light factory loads. My point (finally) is don't get carried away with getting a really light shotgun unless you plan on down loading your own shells. My back up hammer gun is Turkish Liberty two. It's much heavier and much more pleasant to shoot with factory loads. You may ask why it is not my main gun. Simply put the hammer springs have never been addressed (yet) so it's harder to cock, but otherwise it seems to be a well made gun. For what it's worth, Rev. Chase

Howdy Slow, I hope this helps. First, there is a lot of misunderstanding about how double set triggers are supposed to work. They are a separate spring loaded system that trips the lock's sear to drop the hammer. Most double set triggers have two adjustment screws. One that is the most accessible (I think it's between the two triggers. Too lazy to go down and open the safe.) is for adjusting the engagement of the set trigger sear of the front trigger. This is often mistaken for a weight adjustment. It is not! I controls how much the rear trigger sear engages the front trigger. It can often be adjusted to the point where the there triggers won't "set" if turned in too much. Now look closely behind the rear trigger. There should be another screw there. It tensions the rear trigger spring. That spring powers the rear trigger to kick up and release the sear that drops the hammer. rotating this screw clockwise should reduce the tension on the rear trigger spring. You want the tension to just be enough to trip the sear in the lock when the front trigger is pressed. The tension on the rear trigger spring is often excessive on many guns from the factory. Once the tension on the rear trigger spring is set (reduced) to the lightest it can be and still reliably trip the hammer sear and drop the hammer, the front screw can be used to adjust the trigger sear engagement. Care should be taken to allow a light let off, but not truly "hair" trigger. Adjust to a crisp release, be be sure that some pressure is required. The above is my understanding of how these things work. I can't try your rifle and don't have direct experience with an IAB rifle so proceed at your own risk or seek a qualified gunsmith. I have no responsibility for you situation. This message will self destruct in 10 seconds. Rev. Chase

Howdy Quiet, I would recommend against brass plated steel tacks. I have not put tacks one any of my guns, but I have noticed where the brass plating has worn away on furniture and other decorative situations. If this were to happen ;you would be faced with the shame of steel tacks or would be forced to remove them and then fill the holes with real brass tacks anyway. If it were me, I'd hold off until I could fine a source for the real thing. Plus one for pre drilling the holes and gluing rather than hammering, especially with real brass tacks. That's just my opinion, but it's your rifle. Rev. Chase

Howdy H.K., A single barrel SG sounds like too much fun for me. When I want to have "fun" (a slow motion train wreck) I drag out my '87. One or two stages are about all of the "fun" I can stand. Then I have to revert back to my "high speed" hammer double. On the other hand, I've never tried a hammerless single with an ejector. I enjoy terrorizing the TO when my .38 Handi Rifle spits the empties at him so that might be fun. Rev. Chase

Howdy Quiet, I too was trepidatious to take apart my 66's until I had a typical loading gate tab break. I just, carefully, pulled the one side plate to put the new one on, but also got a look inside. Since then, have seen a couple of videos and now have no fear. I still am careful to put the parts on the bench in the position and order in which they were removed. Good luck, Rev. Chase

Howdy Fellers, (highjacking alert) Not sure if it applies here, but I have often wondered about some of the "flickered" SXS chambers that are so funneled that the step in the chamber for the shell's rim seems to have disappeared. Could overdoing the funneling create something akin to an "off the face" condition? Rev. Chase

Plus 1 for Marauder, I saw this video a while ago (couldn't remember where) and used what I learned to tighten up an older Belgian double hammer gun that was my first CAS sxs. It worked well. Just take it easy and try a little at a time. Rev. Chase

Howdy Make, A couple of things. First, when you wiggle the barrels is the play up and down or side to side or both. If it's mostly up and down, you make be able to have it tightened by having a good smith beat on the locking lug. If it's side to side or both, take a hard look at the locking lug on the barrel. I heard that some Stoegers can develop a crack in the lug. I don't know what the fix for that is, but I would sideline the gun if you see a crack there until a smith can look at it. I'm sure some of our more experienced posters here may have more (better?) advise. Rev. Chase

Howdy Eyesa, My experience with the cocking levers is the same, right down to using the edge of the bench. There is one other solution which I employ most of the time. It's quite simple. Shoot Classic Cowboy and then let the shotgun's external hammers down with you thumb before you put the gun away. Rev. Chase