J.S. Sooner, SASS #73526
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Posts posted by J.S. Sooner, SASS #73526
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A LGS near me has two for sale, great prices. I didn't look at them for condition.
Marlin 39A 22lr 1961 $599
Marlin 39A 22lr 1987 $629
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I like “Hey y’all, watch this!”
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25 minutes ago, Sedalia Dave said:
Still no idea what this part is
Could be an older primer drop to be. MEC did have priming systems that worked wire tubes instead of the tray type. Prior user may have changed it to a tray system. The tubes may fit if they are large enough for 209 primers.
A friend had the tube style and said he used a longer proper size curtain rod that would hold more primers. I sold a MEC 650 with tube feed. Turned a piece of aluminum tubing to fit.-
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16 hours ago, Rance - SASS # 54090 said:
Ok.. I finished running a shell through station 4-5&6
I have 2 concerns..
#1..Is it normal when handle (lever?) is in the down position.. stage #5 doing the crimp has about an 1/8” play up and down.. is this normal??
#2.. the cam on my down stroke never touch’s the roller?
(By about 1/16th. of an inch adjusted to the lowest position)
But the finished product might be ok??
May need adjustment.
https://www.mecoutdoors.com/Images/document/grabber.pdf
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You need a pusher like this. I have different types and shapes. Sell them at local matches. Some attach to a bullet bag/ block others hang it on their knife or in an extra ammo loop on their belt.
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On 6/6/2025 at 9:56 AM, Sheriff Dill said:
I watched several videos on them yesterday they seem like really nice presses that are easy to use once you know how they work and adjust them.
$50 is the asking price. Not sure what’s the going price range for one with everything included all ready to reload. Here’s a photo of what is included.
Great price for that package. Well worth 4x the price.
I bought 2 Mec 600 jr's at a yard sale a couple years ago, found a couple missing parts and flipped them, more than doubled my investment. The primary parts missing on these presses are the priming cup, anvil and spring. Primer catch trays are usually gone but any small plastic works.
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6 hours ago, Rance - SASS # 54090 said:
I think J.S. Might have hit the nail on the head..
I have had a few primers hard to punch out and that is what probably caused the bent lever..
I have removed it and straightened it to my best ability..I put it back together and have a problem with station #5..
Does the locknut on the adjustment go above or below
the upper red bracket (don’t know actual name of it)?
Thanks J.S. And the rest of you guys..Above on station 6, final crimp, my Grabber. Below on station 5.
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A corroded, stuck primer and really mess up your day on a progressive loader. That is the only time I ran into much resistance pulling the handle on my 8567N Grabber. Now I run the hulls through a collet sizer - de primer on my Size master before loading on the progressive.
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Smokeless, just wipe them off before sizing and de-priming on my Size master. I like to find problem hulls prior to loading on my Grabber.
I will wash black powder shells if I want to reuse the hulls. Wash them in a bucket of soapy water outside. I did them in the kitchen sink one time many years ago. Thought I could get it done before my wife and daughter returned home from shopping. Didn't work, I got the stinky eye from both of them as the kitchen smelled like the fireside circle on Blazing Saddles with all the cowboys eating them beans.
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Bucket of water, shot sinks, powder floats. Dump water with powder on flower bed, dry shot on a clean rag. After drying, add some powered graphite to the shot.
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I have an ArmaLaser green TR39GS for Ruger LCP Max if the buyer or others are interested in adding it to their setup. I like iron sights, this came on a gun purchase, less than a year old. PM me if interested.
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Stirring this pot will not produce anything positive for our sport. Vote was taken, rules and regulations were established.
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You need more room if the stage has doorways, windows or props to work around.
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19 minutes ago, Yul Lose said:
I don’t get emails from SASS, what’s the vote about?
Message sent with content provided in email.
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6 minutes ago, Sheriff Dill said:
The Taylor is off of Gun Broker and the seller says it’s not but not sure if it’s truly the case. Option 2 is straight from the gunsmith here in New England
Sounds like you may be looking at a Jimmy Spurs rifle. They are smooth, I handled one but never shot one. I have a set of Ruger's, they are smooth.
The 24" barrel can always be cut down later if you decide to.
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Which one feels better to you?
Looking at Taylor's web site. Taylor tuned models are short stroked. I have 2 Taylor Comanchero's, they are short stroked. About the same a my Cody cut and weld short stroke rifles.
I prefer the 20" over a 24" rifle for reasons stated above. Plus you can always add a C&I short stroke package.
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1 hour ago, Creeker, SASS #43022 said:
First.
The transition TO and FROM the shotgun is a huge part of our game - this is benefited by a shorter LOP (avoids clothing snags and the need to push the shotgun away from your body before pulling it inward).
I generally go about 1 - 1.5 inches shorter than the LOP suggested by the "standard" system.
Also this brings the chamber(s) closer to the shooters eyes for the purpose of reloading speed.
What double do you shoot? I have Stoeger, Bakail, CZ and just picked up an SKB, looking to trim the stocks on some. My daughters Bakail is too short for me, my thumb will punch my nose if I shoulder it like my Stoeger.
The SKB, single trigger, seem to be longer from the trigger to the release lever and breech. Do you keep the distance from your thumb to your nose as others posted?
I remember a post years ago from Longshot Logan on cutting a 97 stock. He recommended the negative angle cut for the same reasons.
Thank you,
JSS
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18 minutes ago, Shooting Bull said:
I still disagree. If shooter skips that shooting position they save time by not having to stop, load shotgun, fire shotgun, unload shotgun, move to final position. That all adds up to a ton of time saved. Also, a P early in a stage does not negate the requirement to follow the instructions for the rest of the stage. For instance, just because you got a P early in the stage doesn’t mean you can simply do a ten round dump with the next gun thus ignoring stage instructions on target sequence engagement.
SHB Pg 12:
I agree that some shooters may be able to save time and gain an advantage with taking both SG knockdowns on first pass but picking up a ten second penalty. The only ones that may save time would be in the slowest 10-15% of shooters. None of the top shooters I shoot with could make up the entire 10 seconds by not shooting as written.
If I were the RO for this shooter, I would not give a SOG for his actions.
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8 minutes ago, Branchwater Jack SASS #88854 said:
So, @Eyesa Horg...What would your call have been if he engaged the second one, but left it up standing after the second shot?
I would give a pass to the shooter: no call. Lucky miss for the shooter or assume they just dumped the round into the berm.
I primarily shoot a double barrel and would load 2 for this stage. If the required KD went down I would have two options. Open shotgun, shuck spent and loaded shell, (that would be my choice) or could dump the last round into the berm, then shuck both empties prior to moving onto the rifle.
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39 minutes ago, El Sobrante Kid said:
My understanding is that if the stage instructions call for a target to be engaged, and that target is not "up" do to some type of failure, the shooter is supposed to shoot over, or in the general direction, of the target that is supposed to be engaged.
In this case the SG target had already been accidentally knocked down, but the stage instructions specifically said, "Move back to center target and knock down the other shotgun target,".
Do the words "shoot", "engage", and "knock down" have different meanings in this circumstance? Shouldn't the shooter have fired one round at/over the (second) SG target? Not trying to be argumentative, just trying to learn. Thx
If the shooter took one shot and both SG targets were knocked down, shucked shells, moved onto the rifle position engaging all rifle targets then move back to the shotgun position, they would be required to place one shot above the down shotgun target into the berm. Then move onto the last pistol.
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This system works well, I have one on my Rugged Gear cart. http://ryderumbrellamount.com/
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3 hours ago, Assassin said:
Place the Derringer on the ground, start standing facing up range. At the signal bend over, shooting thru your legs, and shoot the target behind you.
Bonus for black powder? What’s the penalty for falling over?
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We have used a derringer or pocket pistol on stages before. Always load off the clock, started with gun in hand, two handed firing allowed. Just had to hit the cardboard target (very close) and place the derringer on the prop when finished.
I wouldn't run a stage with reloads and movement with a derringer. IMO it would be unsafe and present many opportunities to sweep others. Not a good thing to do on the clock.
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Marlin Carrier 44mag
in SASS Wire
Posted
Are you running specials instead of loaded down mag brass? We used 44 mag brass for loads in Boomer's Marlin to maintain longer OAL.