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Charlie MacNeil, SASS #48580

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Everything posted by Charlie MacNeil, SASS #48580

  1. The inlet pipe is about 100' feet of 1 1/4" black plastic attached to ten feet of 1 1/14" galvanized pipe. The pump itself is made out of 1 1/4" plumbing fittings. The valves are brass flapper valves with no springs. All it takes to start pumping water when the pump stops is to flip the clacker down and it takes off. There's about 6 feet, maybe 8 feet, of drop between the inlet and the pump. I'm lifting the water, at most, about 20 to 25 feet.
  2. + however many for a tank and 12 volt pump. I have a 100 gallon tank sitting on the bank behind my cabin plumbed into a 12 volt RV pump and solar power system. Does a nice job of pressurizing the lines in the cabin and turns itself on and off depending on water demand.
  3. Okay, yesterday's test was a fail. I was gone all day so I don't know when it quit but it definitely didn't run all day. On the other hand, it's running longer now than it did before, so that's at least a partial win. I will continue to research...
  4. Thanks for your replies, folks. The water intake is well-submerged and well-screened. The clacker was sticking in the closed position when it stopped working. After I posted this thread I did some more research and found a paper from some university or other outlining drive pipe slope, etc. and went out and re-examined my setup. At that point it dawned on me that the pump itself was actually higher than the lower end of the black poly drive pipe; the ten feet of galvanized pipe attaching the pump to the poly pipe sloped up from the poly instead of continuing the slope of the poly. I moved the
  5. 7/8 ounce of shot in the CB0178-12 wad. Which doesn't do a good job of sealing the hull giving poor combustion.
  6. I know that this is a long ways from being CAS related, but I also know that there are folks here who have a lot of different interests. One of mine is off grid stuff. I built a water ram pump to use for watering my 'maters and stuff. I used 100 feet of 1 1/4" black poly pipe (because that's what I had) laying in the creek that runs alongside of my yard for an intake and 1 1/4" valves going to a 3" by 3' pvc pressure tank for the pump. I've got approximately 6 feet, maybe 8 feet, of drop over the course of the 100 feet. The problem I have is keeping the pump going. It will run for anywhere fro
  7. Once you do, will you please explain them to me? Good video!
  8. Yeah, I should have done a better job of describing it. Mostly the crimp caves in with the current load of Titewad and the 12SO wad. Gaping hole between the petals of the crimp. I did some research in my Lyman shotgun manual and saw that a one ounce load of shot with 15.5 grains of 700-x is in the book for Federal Gold Medal hulls. If I don't have the right charge bar and bushing I have an adjustable charge bar. I may put it in my press and adjust it to the above dimensions and give that a try. It's starting to get personal now...
  9. Thanks, Joe. I did some experimenting this afternoon, not very successfully. I have some Federal 12SO wads and the crimp is even worse with those than they are with my Claybuster wads. I may try cutting some of the hulls and roll crimping them and see how that goes. It's more of a hassle but if it'll let me use up the hulls it might be worth it.
  10. I recently acquired a whole gob of once fired Federal Top Gun hulls. I normally load 13 grains of Titewad and a Claybuster 7/8 ounce wad in Remington Gun Club and Winchester AA hulls. Since I have a boatload of these Federal hulls it would be nice to find a load to use in them. My Lyman shotgun manual doesn't list Top Gun hulls, and I'm cheap enough that I really don't want to buy another book just for one hull, so I'm appealing to the fine folks on this forum for information: which wad would work the best with my newly acquired Federal hulls? I'm thinking best crimp, etc. Thanks
  11. I don't care what somebody shoots at a match. That's their prerogative. I just hate to see someone struggling to get one of the Big Boys to work on the firing line. There was a guy on our warm-up posse at Winter Range in 2016 who shot four stages with a Big Boy and was so totally frustrated with it by the end of the fourth stage that I thought he might bash it on the unloading table. And they're ugly besides...
  12. My first spurs were a set of Crockett and Kelly's that I bought when I went to work on a ranch just up the valley from where I live now when I was just out of college. A couple of years later I ended up with the Crockett and Kelly spurs that my great grandad had worn when he was doing ranch work back in the day. I still have both of those sets. My shooting spurs are a set of inexpensive decorated ones with big round rowels and jinglebobs that my talented daughter in law made the straps for. I also have another set that a relative gave me because he was too chicken ( ) to try to wear them for
  13. Pinto Annie and Shalako Tucker make ours. For the last several years they've made us metal plates with category, etc. laser engraved on them then powder coated. First place is biggest, etc. We cut off the registration early enough that we can let them know how many we need for each category, which saves on unissued awards.
  14. This. It works along the same lines as making 6x45 brass for an AR out of .223. Lube well and resize.
  15. Evan is my go-to bourbon, although I'm kind of partial to Bulleit as well. The problem with Evan is that it went up $2/half gallon. I used to be able to get it for $15.95 at WalMarts in Nevada when I was driving through and now it's $17.95...
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