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John Boy

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Posts posted by John Boy

  1. Those are Starline cases and my new ones are 1.296 - they chamber perfectly and fire with no marks on the brass in my 1887 JM Marlin Ballard rifle.

    OK, now measure from the front of your cases back 0.390". That is the distance where the shoulder on the brass starts. Looking at the picture of your reloads, it looks like the shoulder starts farther back from the mouth of the case = the shoulder set back is too long.

  2. Pit Bull - I seriously believe all the issue relate to the shoulders on the reloads set back too far. And possibly, the cases are too long. Get out your calipers and do some measurements:

    * SAMMI Case length length is... 1.313

    * The shoulder ends at 0.3046" back from the end of the case - 1.313

    * The leade (throat) in the chamber is 0.1624". If the cases are too long, a good probability the 3rd case with the 2 dents results from the cases being too long - jamming into the throat

    * The scratches on the case bodies in picture 1 and 2 are results of the shoulders set too far back

    In this whole thread, the issue is being blamed on the chamber. But NADA has been determined whether or not the cases for the reloads are the correct length and the shoulder dimensions are correct. Let's go back to the basics - the cases and be sure the cases are full length sized before any measurement

  3. I can send to phone or email.I still can't post here.

    Pit Bull, without pictures posted on the Wire, it's like a cat chasing it's tail. So it's not a function of you can't post pictures, it's a function that you don't want to learn how to that is fully explained here ... http://www.sassnet.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=219914

    Then post the pictures to show the details asked below

    BTW, the how to thread has been read 12,337 times - Join the Club! :D

     

    I do not think it had been shot when I bought it.I bought it off the wire.

    You had best be in touch with the seller and get an honest answer whether or not the rifle you bought from him has a ringed chamber

     

    Since you sent pictures to Steve, he'll need some detail answers from you, so let's start:

    * Take a bore light from the muzzle and tell us when you see in the chamber, especially if you see a side wall shadow when looking into the chamber

    * Cases - full length sized or not ... diameter of web after FL sizing

    * Case length

    * COL of loaded round

    * Diameter of loaded case at the mouth down to the depth of the seated bullet

    * Any land engraving on the nose of the bullet with a seated loaded round

     

     

    Gritz ,the top and bottom are pushed in a little and a small spot on the bottom is push out.

    Hand chamber a loaded round - not from the magazine with the magic marker lines and tell us if there are any differences from your statement to Grits. Then do the same with an empty case

  4. ...when you fire a round or just put a empty case on and close the action.It is really messing up the cases.

    Since you failed to explain 'messing up the cases' - a SWAG.

    * Take a wire brush and thoroughly clean the chamber

    * 1st WAG - the cases are being scraped when the are chambered

    * So, take a magic marker and run 4 lines down the case - let the ink dry

    * Chamber the case or the round - extract it and see where the ink is scraped off

    * Your issue is probably the cases are not full length sized or the diameter of the bullet is too large - the case scraping at the mouth

  5. Luger - you do what you want to but don't say you want to breech seat a PP bullet for reloads when your not going to do it correctly. Breech seating is specific as explained and just shoving a PP bullet as far as you can without a seater ... is not Breech Seating. And BTW a patched bullet shoved down the bore and tamped harder with the wooden stick is not breech seating. Why?

    The Gibbs rifle has no breech!

  6. Anyway, I better have some help with the breech seating idea before I learn an expensive lesson on my own

    Lunger, in the history of shooting a true breech seated PP bullet, you would be the 1st!

    * Step One - Find a non groove tapered 38-55 bullet. There are several excellent tapered GG bullets (Doc Hudson designed Ideal 319273) but not having the smaller diameters for PP

    319273_185g.gifIdeal 319273 - 185gr. Accurate Molds cloned this bullet for me from the original

    * Wrap the non GG bullet

    * Buy a breech seater ($250) but with an H&R there is no way to hing the seater to the action or make a plugged case that won't work the majority of the time to accurately fully breech the bullet accurately because of the paper

    *Insert the bullet into the leade so only 1/16" of an inch of the base is not fully engraved in the bore. Key is there are no fins on the base of the bullet

    * Charge the case and leave enough bell so the case mouth surrounds the breech seated bullet. This can be an issue because of the paper rap around the bullet base

    * Pull the trigger

    * Only real advantage is a PP bullet leaves less foul in the bore shooting black powder

    Fully believe you will have more issues getting the round to shoot accurately than if you just used a fixed cartridge

    Edit: Lunger forgot to add ... to shoot breech seated reloads the leade of the rifle has to be re-throated to accept the tapered bullet

  7. The only 'factory' ammo I buy is .22 Long Rifle.

    Grits, just finished hand loading yesterday - 150 rounds of 22LR with BP to the existing stash using a new Old West 3X 40gr mold that casts like a dream! Believe I'm going to load a 100 or so with smokeless just for S&G's. I've got it down 35 minutes per a box of 50

     

    For the other 21 calibers - all reloads including shotshells

  8. Damage: The NRA policies even covers scopes! I had $1,400 worth of Unertl & Fecker scopes under the salt water that was paid to have these 2 scopes repaired. Two Bushnell's were total loss and they paid replacement value for both

  9. Have the $2500 and additional $10,000 insurance through Lockton. Salt water from Super Storm Sandy got into my safes. For each firearm damaged, provided Lockton with repair estimates from my gunsmith that amounted to a tad over the $12,500 coverage. Received an immediate check less $200 of my coverage. I still carry the NRA insurance and the additional insurance from Lockton. Zero complaints and did do a cost comparative with other insurance providers including USAA that I have my other personal property insurance with

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