Go West
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Posts posted by Go West
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My wife has an AWA Lightning Special Edition in .38 that has recently locked up on occasion. This is after a fired round and the forearm doesn't want to unlock action. Is there something worn that might be causing this? The gun was purchased at the first SASS convention and has many rounds through it. It has been worked on several times over the years by someone who is "the guy."
It happened again yesterday. I disassembled and reassembled and it seemed to work ok again. I know they like to be clean and lubed. No one wants to eat multiple rounds on a stage or question whether their gun will work or not. Whaddayasay?
PS- My wife loves this gun and while she can use a lever gun, she prefers this.
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I don't like "best" questions as they are so personal, but I do like Bear Creek bullets for WB & CAS. They offer free shipping over $160.
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Start the dude when he has his hat on or he puts his hands on head/ears if no hat.
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I have an older RG cart I would give to someone locally if they want it. It has no-flat tires. I prefer my baby jogger cart.
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Best wishes on your continued recovery.
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Factory new Ubertis have been creeping up in price, so if little used and it works, that is a very good price.
I recently picked up a carbine for under $700 that was little used. If I had the cash, I would have bought the other short rifle that was available.
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My .38 brass supply is mixed head stamp which likely contributed to unequal crimps. The FCD solved that issue and there are no bulges or loose crimps anymore. I haven't checked the expander diameter and if it works, I don't see the need. I do .32, 9mm, Schofield, and .45 Colt but not all have a separate crimp die if they work without. Those are typically Starline.
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I got the LFCD for .38 Special after noticing crimps varied too much, some bullets actually spun by hand while most didn't. It didn't matter which headstamp was used and worked with groove or no groove bullets. I picked up another 650 which had Dillon .38 Special dies that seems to work just fine except for the decapper which I swapped in a Lee decapper. Backed out primers have been due to very light loads for me.
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Get a box of rubber/latex gloves from Harbor Freight, Costco, Amazon, etc. One piece cleaning rod (non-steel) suitable for shotgun and rifle and shorter rod for revolvers. Get brass and nylon brushes and brass jags for your calibers. I like the tornado brushes for shotgun. Nylon, brass and stainless toothbrush style brushes are handy. Solvent and oil of your choice. Retail patches for those who don't wear t shirts.
PS- Most miracle products are advertising hype. Most "kits" have jointed rods and pieces you won't use.
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Do you have any laying around?
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The majority of my .38 Special brass is in excess of 20 years old and will be going strong after I'm gone. .38 nickel brass with a cannelure is the worst for a rifle as it may split at the cannelure leaving an annoying piece in the chamber when it happens. I toss every piece I find. I get more Schofield splits than anything I would presume to be from oversize chambers in my revolvers. Still, the majority are still chugging along.
Some folks actually keep track of how many times they reload, my brother the engineer would likely have them recorded in a spreadsheet. 😁
I wouldn't worry about it................yet.
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The wife's favorite '97 is not ejecting shells and has gotten progressively worse. The shells come out of the chamber but do not eject out of the port. I'm wondering if the extractor(s) are not holding shell firmly enough for the ejector spring to knock them out. If that is so, can the extractors be filed a bit to grab the shells better? The gun is an original that was gone through about a year ago. Thanks in advance.
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If you're patient, you have the opportunity to save a bunch.
I've had Schofields and while fun to shoot, they are not as fast as a Colt, Ruger or clone. I have big hands and long thumbs so they worked for me shooting duelist. My favorite pistols are made by Pietta which are reported to be close to a Colt SAA second generation. I have Rugers, but they don't speak to me as well as those Piettas. .38s will be the least expensive to shoot and are easy to reload. I recommend the '73 as a carbine or short rifle. I've been shooting a 92 of late due to surgery and injury because it's lighter than a '73 or '66. A Stoeger double is a budget candidate, but stay away from the single trigger models.
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I built two guns 20 years ago and still shoot one. Both were C&I kits, but the Pioneer parts should be similar to install and adjust. One gun was a bear and the other remarkably easy, so I'm wanting an outcome like the latter. Time will tell.
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I'm wanting to buy a short stroke kit for a carbine I picked up. Should I measure the pin distance on the standard links prior to ordering a kit? In other words, how likely would I need a shorter or longer link for proper headspace? I've done two guns about 20 years ago (C&I) without issue, but I've seen people reporting needing longer and shorter links for their particular gun. I would prefer a standard kit, not a super ss kit if it matters. Thanks in advance.
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@ $35/1K, I jumped on them like a chimp on a doughnut. When prices are high, I pass unless despairate.
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I bought their White River pistol primers which I'm happy with. I should have been more specific. They offer quite a few brands and types.
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It was the post office in the "if it fits, it ships boxes." Weight has to be under 75 lbs. I think. That one occasion was the only time the PO put bullets in the mail box. Most have been dropped at the entry security door or further down the entryway.
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My mailbox took a dive after having two boxes of bullets stuffed in it. Termites must have done the initial work and the boxes did the rest. I replaced the post with a steel tube (4x4) and they now deliver inside the front gate.
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I bought 2K once fired .38 over 20 years ago to start reloading and am still using the majority of them.
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Don't forget that buying in bulk will save a bunch, too. 8 lb. powder kegs, primers in quantity ( I do 5K at a time), and bullets enough to get free shipping.
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I use walnut with paint thinner, NuFinish and dryer sheets and leave the primers in. I ran a bunch of .38's yesterday and noticed they weren't as shiny after 2 hrs. as usual, so it's time to change the media. Clean media will do a nice job in 1.5 hrs.
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I've only had case separations with .38 Special cannelured nickel brass. If you want to cut them down it's up to you.
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You need the spacer washer for .45 Colt cases, but not Schofield cases. The parts kit appears spendy but when you have the replacement part nearby when you have breakage, it's well worth it. Being new, you could put that off for a while. I like the roller handle which makes producing quantities much easier. I have mixed feelings on the strong mount. I have one with and one without.
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AWA Lightning lock up seeking answers/solutions
in SASS Wire
Posted
I've not tried any of the shorter rounds, it seems to prefer longer ones. Way back I had a crack fixed, I'll look a bit closer. Thanks.