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Johnny Knight

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Posts posted by Johnny Knight

  1. Thanks all for the recommendations.  I'm working around her schedule, since she works at least a couple of weekends each month.  Ideally, she'll get to try out a variety to see which one fits best for her.  I can load down to whatever power works best for her.  Looks like I'll direct her to the local lady shooters, since I've haven't seen any posting here yet.

    Johnny

    • Like 2
  2. Kid Rich,

    My understanding is that finding one of the Marlins in the 32 H&R is a pretty tough challenge, but I'll keep looking.

    Deacon, I'll see if I can get her to try out a Rossi as well.

    Hi Nostrum, thanks for the suggestion,

    Unfortunately, I didn't get a chance to watch Bullion shoot.  The presumption atm is that my wife will be shooting two handed, but In handling my 45 NMV's the gun is heavier than is comfortable for her.  IIRC, the .357 NMV is actually an ounce or two heavier than the 45 (though with the different ammo weight it will be a smaller difference).  Part of that is that she hasn't shot much, so isn't as used to it, but the plan is to have her try a couple of different options and see which one works best for her.   As she works several weekends a month, it will be catch as catch can at the practices to let her get the chance to try a few, so it will be a process...

    Regards

    • Like 2
  3. Greetings all,

    Looking for suggestions for guns for my wife  She made it out to her first match yesterday and had a good time.  Even floated out the idea of giving the shooting a try, so of course, I'll take the chance to pick up a new gun or two, anything to help her out. :).

    The challenge is she is on the dainty side with little wrist or arm strength, so my Vaqueros are a bit heavy for her.  I've seen where some folks have looked at the Ruger single six chambered in .32 H&R, but haven't had a chance to handle those to see how much lighter/smaller they are than a regular Vaquero.  I reload, so I have the option to load down to a comfortable level for her, so a bit of flexibility there.

    So any suggestions for accommodating a lighter build shooter would be appreciated.  Thanks in advance.

    Johnny

  4. Just a followup, after having put 100 rounds through, then another 50 or so at Thunder River, it's looking like I'm getting nice clean strikes on the primers with the 15# Wolff springs currently in the gun.  So, for better or worse, I can't blame the pistol for my performance yesterday :).  All things considered, the guns ran well, just need more time with throwing lead down range.  Thanks again everyone for the helpful suggestions as I learn my way around the vaqueros.

    Regards,

    Johnny

     

    p.s.  Here is a pict of some of the random cases from the 100 test rounds.

    primers after work on transfer bar 12-1-21.jpg

    • Like 1
  5. 271223169_Rugershortenedtransferbar.thumb.jpg.7dc8c468b681fda15efb8910af469f71.jpg1790745926_VaqueroTransferbarpict.thumb.jpg.a1fcf133c1b8abae6d7d74005861fdcc.jpgJust a followup note to those who might be interested.  It appears the culprit wasn't the spring changes I've been doing.  In a separate thread I was asking about transfer bar heights because I noticed that one transfer bar was about 3/32" longer on one pistol than the other.  I noticed a couple of witness marks on the top of the transfer bar where it appeared the SBH hammer I had swapped out would occasionally clip the top of the longer transfer bar before striking the firing pin.  It appears that was resulting in an inconsistent strike on the firing pin accounting for the occasional soft hit on the primer.  After taking off about a 1/16th of an inch to bring it closer to length of my other pistol, (and a bit more polishing while I had it out), I haven't had any more FTF's with either Federal or CCI primers.  Attached is a photo of some random cases from the last 100 rounds I put through the pistol showing nice clean strikes with the 15# springs currently in the gun.

    Thanks again for all the suggestions as I learn about the vaqueros!

    Regards,

    Johnny

     

    primers after work on transfer bar 12-1-21.jpg

    • Thanks 1
  6. Hi Blast,

    Sorry for the delay in responding, just back from a road trip without much internet.  The ammo shoots fine in the rifle and the second pistol.  Kid, thanks for responding, I'll pick up a couple of washers to add to my kit.  At the moment, it looks like the last round of polishing has resolved the issue, but I'll put some more rounds through this week as a warm up to the match this weekend out at Thunder River.

    Regards,

    Johnny

  7. Thanks for the suggestion Cheyenne.  Last night took a bit off the top of the transfer bar to match the profile of my other gun.  Polished up the transfer bar a bit more while it was out, so now everything seems to be working smoothly.  I'll still need to put a few rounds through it before the Last Stand at Thunder River on the 3rd.  See you there.

    Regards,

    Johnny

    Ruger adjustment 11-19-21.jpg

  8. Thanks Cliff,

    I think on at least one occasion the cylinder pin needed a good cleaning, that seemed to help.  But, I've occasionally had the issue when the pin looked to be clean.  Just to clarify, this isn't an issue I have often, pretty rare actually, but just trying to learn as much as I can about the quirks of the vaqueros and knowing what to look for.

    J

     

  9. Thanks OLG, easy enough to swap out to see if that makes a difference.  German, yes, they are factory guns, NIB when I ordered them in April.  The springs have been changed trying out different weights, but all the hard parts are original except for swapping in SBH hammers for the easier reach (shooting Duelist).  Went through and did a basic deburring and polishing on the guns after I got them, but no other parts swaps.  As mentioned above, the only difference I could tell in the hard parts is the longer transfer bar on the one gun.

    Johnny

  10. Thanks.  The transfer bar is free, I've already done round one of deburring it and polishing it a bit, while checking it's movement in the slot to make sure it moves freely.  Normally, no issues at all, just the occasional hang up mentioned above.  The cylinder pin spring provides the requisite springiness and I've already installed the upgraded wolff extra power base pin spring to keep it in place.

    J

  11. Hi all,

    Thought I would bounce a question off of the collected experience here.  I've been working to dial in a newer pair of vaqueros (maybe 1000 rounds through by now) and think I have discovered the source of an occasional issue.  Every once in awhile when cocking one of the guns it hangs up just a touch before reaching full cock.  In trying to diagnose the issue, I've noticed that one transfer bar is decidedly longer than the other.  At full cock, one gun has the firing pin about half covered by the transfer bar.  The second gun, the one that occasionally hangs has the transfer bar completely covering the firing pin.  Since the transfer bar rises as the trigger is pulled, I am guessing that the longer transfer bar is occasionally catching on the firing pin as it rises.  The plan is to shorten it to the same length as the one that I'm not having any issues with, unless there is something else that I am missing? Any input would be appreciated.

    Thanks in advance,

    Johnny

     

    p.s. I saw the other posts on transfer bar pinch and that doesn't seem to be the issue as each transfer bar drops cleanly.  It might also explain why I get an occasional FTF on the same gun if the hammer is catching and skipping off the top of the longer transfer bar instead of one clean strike where it is supposed to hit  ......just pondering...

    Vaquero Transfer bar pict.jpg

  12. I've been having some luck with the local Bass Pro shops, found both large pistol primers last week (Federal Large Pistol Magnum), picked up 2 bricks since I had a friend with me, then another brick of CCI small pistol primers this week.  So, doesn't hurt to pop in every once in awhile since the inventory won't show up online.

    Johnny

    • Like 1
  13. Latest update, ran 100 rounds through the pair of pistols using 15# springs in each with no failure to fire issues.  As a side note, won the timing lottery and scored 2 bricks of federal magnum large pistol primers at the local bass pro!  More opportunity to experiment....

    Johnny

    • Like 3
    • Thanks 1
  14. OLG, Thanks for the suggestion on using factory ammo, but the reality is that I'll never shoot factory ammo with the guns.  It might be more accurate to say that I'm not just testing different springs in the guns, what I'm really doing is finding the springs that I like shooting that will reliably shoot the ammo I reload.  While I could grab a few boxes of factory ammo, shoot it to make sure that it works well in the gun and set some aside for matches, the reality is that I have about 1500 cases that I keep recycling as often as I can find primers, in order to get practice in.  I'm also reloading for a friend who is also just getting started with SASS, so he also is wanting to throw lead down range to get practice in.  So, ultimately I need to make sure I am reloading as consistently as possible to account for things like proper primer seating as Cliff pointed out above, then continue smoothing the action and trying different spring options until I get reliability with the ammo I'm loading.  Otherwise if I went with just factory ammo it would drive the cost up at least double, if not a good deal more, which would just lead to less practice.  Maybe I'm not catching what you are recommending?

    Regards,

    Johnny

  15. Thanks Larsen!

    Any idea on how many washers equate to adding the extra pound?  Been way too long since my mechanical engineering class to try to recall Hooke's law.  I guess alternatively, I just keep experimenting with one washer at a time....more practice.

    Johnny

  16. Thanks Cliff, I'll freely admit I don't claim any great expertise in reloading.  Although I've reloaded for years and haven't had any problems before now, it was almost exclusively loading for factory guns (mostly Glocks in .40 and .45).  So, figuring out how all the factors interrelate once you start going with a modified gun is where I'm trying to learn as much as I can.  I was paying attention to the thumb issue, since it has been mentioned several times in this discussion, and I'm not seeing any incidental contact.  Shooting duelist, my thumb has rolled off and away from the hammer by the time I fire (still slow on getting back to the hammer, since I'm still pretty new at this).  Based on what you've commented on, I am guessing the issue was most likely not setting the primers all the way down.  This last batch of reloads, I had gone lighter on the primer setting (still flush with back of case), thinking it would allow the firing pin to contact sooner, but I hadn't accounted sufficiently for the fact that would result in the force being absorbed seating the primer in deeper.  I'll be firmer on seating the next round of primers and see if that cures the problem. 

    Regards,

    Johnny

  17. Well, an update on the ongoing experiment.  Put 100 rounds through the pair of pistols, for this iteration, both guns had 15# Wolff springs.  Shooting Large Pistol CCI primers in mixed head, well used brass.  The primers look like they were old stock (lighter blue box).  97 rounds went out fine, 3 did not on the first trigger pull, but each fired on a second go around.  Seeing as how I can get springs for the same cost as a hamburger these days, I'm tempted to swap in 16# just to see the difference.  Not the most scientific process I know, but it's just a chance for more practice. 

    Three Foot, I'm not sure on the measurement, but as noted above, there is definitely a different 'feel' between different manufacturers' 17# springs.

    Regards,

    Johnny

  18. Just going to say thanks again for the input.  I'm a long ways away from worrying about lock time (lucky to shoot a 36 second stage atm), but I'm enjoying tinkering with the guns to see how spring changes are affecting the feel of the guns.  Swapped out the remaining 13# spring for a second 15# spring (since that was the gun I was still having the failures to fire on).  The plan is to put some more rounds through the guns today to see how they shoot.  One gun is feeling very smooth, the other still has just a slight hitch on it that I haven't been able to identify yet.  Also, in checking the action, I noticed that when the trigger is pulled, if it is held all the way back that seems to limit the amount the hammer can fall forward just a tid bit.  Upon pulling the trigger, the hammer falls striking the transfer bar, then as the trigger is released forward, it seems the hammer is able to go forward a bit more.  That would seem to explain why some of the primer strikes were noticeably lighter than others (if I was continuing to hold the trigger all the way back).  I would think that the hammer should have full forward travel whether the trigger is held all the way back or not.  Is this something specific to Rugers, or just my individual gun?  If so, it would suggest I need to train myself to a crisper trigger pull and get off the trigger so that I'm not limiting that extra forward travel.

    To Doc and the others, the plan is to shoot with the  15's a bit just to see if I can get them to reliably ignite the CCI primers, then swap out to a bit heavier spring to find the sweet spot that works for me.  It does seem that the 17# wolff spring does have a softer feel than the original ruger spring that is also supposed to be a 17# spring.  Maybe its all in my head though...

    Johnny

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