Nostrum Damus SASS #110702
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Posts posted by Nostrum Damus SASS #110702
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No one has mentioned my actual reasons for wet tumbling. Making prettier shiny brass isn't one of them. Maybe I'm being OCD about it, and if so, that's fine. That dark stuff when I look inside dry-tumbled brass is not as smooth as bare brass, and it has some thickness, even if only a little. Do I want more friction between the plug of my expanding die and brass? No. Do I want burnt powder residue build-up on the plug of my expanding die? No. Do I want any increased risk of having a case getting stuck on an expanding die? No. Do I want my expanding die to expand the case diameter any more than than happens with steel-on-clean-brass contact? No. Is there a way to prevent any of these things, even if the risks are very small? Yes -- wet tumbling.
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37 minutes ago, Rye Miles #13621 said:
I don't and never will use wet tumbling. An hour or so with corn cob media and Brasso or Dillon case cleaner or others work just fine! I'm not obsessed with brand new looking brass. As long as it's clean it's fine!
Not obsessed either. But I had trouble with the "As long as it's clean it's fine!" part when I did dry tumbling, especially on the insides of the cases. And the mess that dry tumbling itself made while separating the media from the brass, while wet tumbling makes none whatsoever. To each his own!
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If you use a progressive press with a case feeder, it is so simple and so fast to deprime dirty brass before wet tumbling that you really need to have a good reason to NOT deprime before wet tumbling. You get cleaned primer pockets, which can't be a bad thing, plus it easily cuts the drying time of the pile of cleaned brass by more than half, more like by two-thirds -- no matter how you do your drying. Just have a tool head that has only a single decapping die of your choice -- I use a Lee Universal Decapper -- in the first position. Then go at it as fast as you can cycle your press! You'll deprime 300 cases in about five minutes. Five well-spent minutes.
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I used some before my reloading bench was set up and before I found a very generous bullet-casting club member who obviously likes the smell of molten lead. Very good quality and customer service too. (Both Choice Ammunition and my bullet molder.)
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They don't mean much but it is a fun conversation piece on the wall -- especially for our non-shooting friends -- complete with Old West Action Figurines!!
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OK, for my light cowboy action loads, I am using charge bar 502-34 in my 9000GN press to drop 3/4 oz of #8 lead shot, with powder bushing #20 which drops about 14.4 gr of Titewad under Claybuster CB0175-12 pink wads. I use Federal 209A primers, not 209 as previously mentioned, though I doubt that matters at all. Great cowboy action shell.
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I've used Titewad for years as well and it works great. I load light recoiling 3/4 oz loads in Win AA hulls with 209 primers and Claybuster CB0175-12 pink wads. I love shooting the shells and so does 110-lb Bullion Rose and they are more than adequate for every KD we've shot at. I'll check the MEC bushing in my 9000GN tomorrow for you.
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Also on Richmond in Houston and I've gotten some great bargains there: https://www.houstoncameraexchange.com/
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We don't go down range without calling a cease fire across all stages, so it is not practical to go reset the KDs and plate racks by hand because at least one and usually two other posses would have to stop whatever they are doing.
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6 hours ago, Flinthills Dawg said:
I use yellow nylon rope with clips on each end. I have learned over the years that at my club we do not leave the ropes out to weather. Use to leave ropes out all year and constantly had to replace rope. Have not had to replace any ropes in about 10 years now.
FD -- Are you sure the yellow stuff is nylon? That is a very unusual color for nylon rope. The most common yellow stuff is polypropylene and it indeed weathers, while good quality nylon lasts a very long time without significant weathering damage.
I tip my hat to all the pards who really like having to bring in ropes after every match, and then having to set them out again before every next match! Me, personally -- I'd rather use some ropes that are designed to live for years outside in full hot sun and all other conditions Mother Nature has to offer. Marine grade braided nylon rope works great but that "mule tape" stuff sounds great, too!
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I'm currently in charge of maintaining our club's KD and plate rack reset ropes. My goal is to set things up so they last a very long time between required maintenance or replacement.
Don't waste your time on cheap rope, the kind you can get at Home Depot in 100-foot rolls for $5 each -- it is false economy because the cheap stuff actually breaks down in UV (that is, sunlight). At least here in in the Texas sun and heat, that stuff lasts less then two months before it disintegrates. Get 3/8" or, better still, 1/2" solid braid marine grade rope that is designed to protect expensive floating toys for years under the worst outdoor conditions -- salt, sun, heat, wet. Multi-strand wire rope works at first but as soon as it kinks or twists or loops, or if any single one of the strands breaks, wire rope becomes a problem. Still, short lengths of wire rope are used at the targets because lead splatter will damage unprotected nylon rope. Make a loop at both mating ends of the wire rope and the nylon rope and connect the loops with carabiners.
Also, there are some stages where using all nylon rope make more sense; wire rope simply won't smoothly ride the pulleys of our swinging target. On that stage, the several feet of nylon rope that is exposed to lead splatter is protected with rope chafe guards (Kevlar or Dyneema sleeves sold by the foot, secured on the rope with nylon zip-ties).
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Happy Appy -- that's the Amazon link for YOU to buy them on Amazon. I bought what I need and you can too! They come in different colors, to boot!
ND
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Purly, delete the photo with your personal information showing.
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That's a good deal and your daughter, Ustas, will really like the shorter stock and it will totally change (for the better) how she handles the scattergun. All of us who have put short stocks on our petite ladies' 97s will vouch for that.
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https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07Y5PZ3R7/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&th=1
two wraps for $18. includes four lengths of synthetic sinew, two needles. I have put these on all my lever guns, they are fantastic. You watch the company's YouTube and do what the guy does along with him, and they turn out perfect every time.
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Pardon me for asking: what is a P38 Enfield bayonet? I've never heard of it.
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Update. I removed the grips. Decided to start the experiment with new mineral spirits. Wiping did nothing. Rubbing hard with spirits-soaked clean shop rags did the trick though, albeit with substantial elbow grease added. I had to disassemble the ejector as well to get at all the nooks and crannies. The entire outer metal surfaces of all parts of both guns had the microscopically thin yet amazingly stubborn yellowed whatever-it-was on it. I then LIGHTLY oiled a silicone rag and wiped all surfaces again before reassembling both guns. They are both bright shiny white high polish stainless again.
OLG, I'll never know if acetone would have worked better or faster. I had the time and elbow grease to spare, so I spent it.
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Good idea. I haven't really thought about which solvents on my shop's chemicals shelf I might try. Paint thinner (mineral spirits), acetone, carburetor cleaner (primarily methyl chloride), brake cleaner (primarily tetrachloroethylene), or something else.
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I have one exactly as shown -- awesome machine at a great price. Someone should snap it up.
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I recently picked up a boxed consecutive SASS-numbered set of extremely lightly used polished stainless steel .357 Mag NMVs made in 2014. There are areas of steel on both guns that have a slight yellow tint, while other areas are bright white stainless in appearance. To my eye, it looks like yellowed lacquer. Has anyone seen this on Ruger NMVs? My 2008 high polish stainless NMVs do not show anything similar. Is it in fact some yellowed varnish or coating? What is the best way to remove it without damaging the polished stainless finish? Thanks in advance.
Nostrum Damus
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Oh, I almost forgot, I have an AG m/42b too. Brain is foggy today. The Swedish gun is much more pleasant to shoot.
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I have its cousin, a Hakim, which was made by Egypt after it acquired the production line from Sweden after WWII. A few differences including the longer upper handguard, as well as chambering it for the millions of 7.92x57 cartridges left behind by the Germans. Really fun to shoot. If you're not careful when charging the magazine from a stripper clip, the bite of the bolt makes Garand Thumb look like a tiny nibble! And that's a good price!
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On 2/12/2024 at 10:10 AM, bgavin said:
My brand new Stoeger was also difficult to break open.
I took it to the range, and it broke the barrel hinge lug which destroyed my gun.
IMO, if it is difficult to open, then something is too tight and subject to a lot of stress and potential breakage.The Stoeger doesn't have the same reputation for "stiff" that a new CZ Sharp Tail does. The CZ is built like a tank and once you do what you need to do to make it a useful SASS SxS, it is a joy to shoot and durable -- at least I've not heard of anyone breaking one in use.
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I STOLE one of the Boss's lingerie washing/drying fine mesh bags and I hang the knotted bag inside the door of the clothes dryer set to hot dry. I shake off the excess water in a towel before putting it into her delicates bag, give the bag a shake once or twice while drying and it is bone dry in a half hour to 45 minutes.
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Primers not going BOOM turns out to be operator error.
in SASS Wire
Posted
The airborne dust cloud raised when transferring dry media from the storage bucket to the tumbler, and then in the media separator, and when separating dry media from brass, and everywhere that dust settled on, was more problematic for me than the dust on the brass itself.