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Captain Curly Strait

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    Western history, cowboy guns, all types of shooting, old friends and older guns.

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  1. Well, how about this? I’m curious as to the source, and potential solution(s), of the OP’s question. There’s been good, consistent advice from experience here so far. I didn’t post a response because I’m not sure my remedy solves the problem. But I suffered the same issue with one, out of two, identical Stevens 235’s. One crushes my Chicago, NY, LA-Driving Indicator finger, and one does not. They are identical except for this: one has an LOP of 14-1/2”, the other has an LOP of 13”. When I added a slip-on pad to the 13”, no more damage to my driving finger. So, my question is: “Could it be the stock is too short, instead of the gripping style”? Just curious.
  2. Never actually made it to Captain and it’s been a Major issue, but I’ll keep it Private. Sell the Henry. Happy Trails, Big Boy!
  3. 1886 from 1887 re-chambered to 45-70. Haven’t been able to shoot it in a match yet, but hope to soon. Besides a new chamber and rifling, it just got new wood. The old stocks were “shot”.
  4. First and foremost, “Thank You Very Much” to all who responded!!! Much appreciated! Secondly, I have four Colt SAA’s as new, and four Ruger New Vaqueros, one SASS pair as new, plus the ones in the photos. But I also have a few old Winchester rifles who are showing their age, an 1886 from ‘87, an 1886 from ‘88, and a 1873 from ‘91. They appear to have been “ridden hard and put up wet” more than once in their lifetime. When I take these wonderful oldies to shoot alongside my new New Vaqueros, my OCD kicks in and I want my whole outfit to match. Don’t want to look like a tinhorn toting new pistols with notches cut in them for show. Just some honest wear and tear, indicative of the time and lifestyle. Hence my question. J-Bar, thanks for the tip! I’ll give it a try. Doc Roy, thanks for the kind words. That was four hours of tedious and cautious polishing using Flitz and a paper towel. Just left them a bit shiny in spots that “might shouldn’t be” shiny otherwise. Warden Callaway, thanks for sharing! I’ve followed some of your recent posts and you appear to have an exquisite collection of fine firearms. If I had your money, I’d burn mine. Very nice restoration on the Colts! It is a shame to intentionally damage those beautiful SAA’s! So, I’m doing it to Rugers. Mud Marine, excellent break-in strategy! If I only had the time and money. Again Pards, Many Thanks to Y’all! Hope to meet you some day down the trail. I’ll be the bald guy who misses faster than everyone else. Most Sincerely, Curly
  5. Not certain if the pictures will post, but I’d like to “age” my newest Vaqueros. If the pictures post, the first image should be of one new and one with some of the bluing polished off, both with bone grips. Second image should be both polished with walnut grips. As I’ve removed 60-70% of the original finish, they appear “shiny”. I’ve experimented with Birchwood Casey Plum Brown, but not happy with the results. Any suggestions on how to brown them up aside from burying them in the yard? I’d like them to look 100-years old but won’t live that long for time to do it naturally. Thanks in advance for your input! Capt. Curly Strait
  6. What a lovely rifle! Keep the wife!!! I have the same in .45 Colt. Mine also had discoloring, but on the receiver. I used Flitz metal polish and a paper towel to remove. It cleaned up nicely and has not returned. After that, I left it to patina naturally as I shoot it as my main match gun. To me, it’s a tool. It might not remain pretty, but it always has to work. Might not be the same for you since it’s such a wonderful gift. Enjoy it and welcome to our fold!
  7. Congratulations Roy! What an accomplishment!!!!
  8. Kid, welcome to the fold! We all got “hooked” the same way. Though there may have been good or even great shooters to start, or slow shooters to start, or, like me, the fastest misser you ever saw; it’s the people of CAS, and the spirit of the game (aka the love of the Cowboy way) which keeps us coming back for more. Thanks for your post. It reminds me of my first match and I finished last. That was almost 20 years ago and I can still finish in the bottom third if I try hard!
  9. Seems to me, dies all use the same thread pitch and size. Might be some proprietary dies out there, but it appears to be a standardized item. I’m fond of RCBS and Lyman. Have a set of Hornady 45-70 dies also. Have used Lee’s in the past. And you know what, they all fit in my Dillon press. So, I guess I’m just not “brand-loyal“, but “results-loyal”. So much of what we do with reloading is focused around patience and consistency, resulting in performance. Picking a “brand” doesn’t appear to be as important as how we use it since they are all basically the same when it comes to design and thread pitch. I do like factory crimp dies for my pistol rounds, but I’m just one old reloader. I’m confident there are many here wiser than me. However, I do know you don’t have to use ONLY Dillon dies in a Dillon press.
  10. Great News! Very happy to hear that some of y’all are back to enjoying our sport. I’m jealous, as all my local matches have been canceled for the near term. But ecstatic to hear somewhere in free America life is going forward. I’d love to come shoot with y’all. And for those that don’t know me, I can miss as fast as anyone! Thanks for posting some good news! “Mask-less” Capt. Curly Strait. Good guys don’t wear masks.
  11. Great looking rig! Nice work!!!
  12. Are you cleaning for smokeless, or BP? Or are you wanting a rust preventative? All answers to your question must delineate between the these in order to be effective. What are you trying to clean? Barrels, chambers, or the face of the cylinder/breech-face? This answer applies more to technique than cleaning agent. Break-Free CLP, by definition, can’t do anything perfectly. It cannot clean, then also lubricate. Or protect. There are many cleaning agents available, for both smokeless and black powder. Also, there are many lubricants for firearms. And rated as such. Or are you merely wanting to prevent rust? If I better understood what you’re trying to clean/prevent, I could offer better advice after 23 years of working for firearms manufacturers. The simplest advice is “use a product rated for cleaning firearms”. cleaning them of what you need to remove. Then lubricate with an oil “rated for firearms“. Not WD-40 or 3-1 oil or Froglube or MPro-7. And the lubricants designed specifically for firearms also work well at rust prevention for long-term storage. PM me if you want to learn more. I’m happy to help. Curly
  13. Well OLG, No offense intended, but here’s what Loctite has to say, confirming what I already knew from years of experience in this industry. But don’t take my word for it. Dear Curly, Thank you for e-mailing Henkel Corporation. We appreciate your interest in our products.Acetone will not soften Loctite 271. Soaking in methylene chloride is required along with mechanical abrasion once adhesive is softened.For questions, comments or suggestions, please feel free to call us at (800) 624-7767, Monday through Friday, between the hours of 9:00 a.m.and 4:00 p.m. Eastern Time; or visit us on the Web at www.loctiteproducts.com, www.ositough.com or www.lepageproducts.com.Thank you for your inquiry. I hope you find this information helpful.Sincerely,Consumer Relations RepresentativeHenkel Corporation
  14. Acetone WILL NOT remove/soften/weaken Loctite 271. Please don’t trust my 23 years of working for manufacturer’s in the firearms industry. Including for Marlin. Ask LocTite. Don’t take anyone’s word for it. Ask Marlin. The proper “home-solution” is either “peening” the dovetail, or replacing the part which may be undersized. It’s also possible the dovetail cut is oversized, as these parts are friction fit. Min/Max specifications being what they are include the possibility that the dovetail is Max, and the part is Min. Yes it goes together and appears to pass QC, and it might work just fine. But since it’s your issue and you’re the only one who needs this resolved, Loctite 271 will not solve the problem, nor is it removed/softened/or weakened by acetone. Just trying to help you. Don’t take my word for it. Look it up. Contact Loctite. Or Marlin. Bottom line is it can be remedied to your satisfaction. It’s a great gun. Best Wishes, Captain Curly Strait.
  15. Got into this thread a bit late. Sorry if I repeat others wiser than me who’ve already posted. Red Loctite is a wonderful thing. For screws. Threaded parts. As long as they are not subjected to high heat. Heat is what you use to defeat most Loctite. Like several others here, I’d suggest the “peening” method of tightening up the dovetail. And just to be clear on the use of Red Loctite, here’s the story from Loctite: Loctite Threadlocker Red 271 is designed for the permanent locking and sealing of threaded fasteners. The product cures when confined in the absence of air between close fitting metal surfaces. It protects threads from rust and corrosion and prevents loosening from shock and vibration. It is only removable once cured by heating up parts to 500°F (260°C). Hope this works out for you! Curly Strait
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