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Captain Curly Strait

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Everything posted by Captain Curly Strait

  1. Are you cleaning for smokeless, or BP? Or are you wanting a rust preventative? All answers to your question must delineate between the these in order to be effective. What are you trying to clean? Barrels, chambers, or the face of the cylinder/breech-face? This answer applies more to technique than cleaning agent. Break-Free CLP, by definition, can’t do anything perfectly. It cannot clean, then also lubricate. Or protect. There are many cleaning agents available, for both smokeless and black powder. Also, there are many lubricants for firearms. And rated as such. Or are you merely wanting to prevent rust? If I better understood what you’re trying to clean/prevent, I could offer better advice after 23 years of working for firearms manufacturers. The simplest advice is “use a product rated for cleaning firearms”. cleaning them of what you need to remove. Then lubricate with an oil “rated for firearms“. Not WD-40 or 3-1 oil or Froglube or MPro-7. And the lubricants designed specifically for firearms also work well at rust prevention for long-term storage. PM me if you want to learn more. I’m happy to help. Curly
  2. Well OLG, No offense intended, but here’s what Loctite has to say, confirming what I already knew from years of experience in this industry. But don’t take my word for it. Dear Curly, Thank you for e-mailing Henkel Corporation. We appreciate your interest in our products.Acetone will not soften Loctite 271. Soaking in methylene chloride is required along with mechanical abrasion once adhesive is softened.For questions, comments or suggestions, please feel free to call us at (800) 624-7767, Monday through Friday, between the hours of 9:00 a.m.and 4:00 p.m. Eastern Time; or visit us on the Web at www.loctiteproducts.com, www.ositough.com or www.lepageproducts.com.Thank you for your inquiry. I hope you find this information helpful.Sincerely,Consumer Relations RepresentativeHenkel Corporation
  3. Acetone WILL NOT remove/soften/weaken Loctite 271. Please don’t trust my 23 years of working for manufacturer’s in the firearms industry. Including for Marlin. Ask LocTite. Don’t take anyone’s word for it. Ask Marlin. The proper “home-solution” is either “peening” the dovetail, or replacing the part which may be undersized. It’s also possible the dovetail cut is oversized, as these parts are friction fit. Min/Max specifications being what they are include the possibility that the dovetail is Max, and the part is Min. Yes it goes together and appears to pass QC, and it might work just fine. But since it’s your issue and you’re the only one who needs this resolved, Loctite 271 will not solve the problem, nor is it removed/softened/or weakened by acetone. Just trying to help you. Don’t take my word for it. Look it up. Contact Loctite. Or Marlin. Bottom line is it can be remedied to your satisfaction. It’s a great gun. Best Wishes, Captain Curly Strait.
  4. Got into this thread a bit late. Sorry if I repeat others wiser than me who’ve already posted. Red Loctite is a wonderful thing. For screws. Threaded parts. As long as they are not subjected to high heat. Heat is what you use to defeat most Loctite. Like several others here, I’d suggest the “peening” method of tightening up the dovetail. And just to be clear on the use of Red Loctite, here’s the story from Loctite: Loctite Threadlocker Red 271 is designed for the permanent locking and sealing of threaded fasteners. The product cures when confined in the absence of air between close fitting metal surfaces. It protects threads from rust and corrosion and prevents loosening from shock and vibration. It is only removable once cured by heating up parts to 500°F (260°C). Hope this works out for you! Curly Strait
  5. First, condition is everything when it comes to establishing a fair-market value. Assuming it’s in 80%-90% NRA condition, it’s worth between $375 and $425 respectively, unless it’s a carbine manufactured between 1979 and 1984 without the manual hammer-block safety, according to Blue Book. However, the pre-Remington Marlins are experiencing higher than normal values in the open market. Pictures would certainly help in establishing fair-market value, as would the date of manufacture, but comparing what you have, against what has been recently sold online, would give you a better idea of its true FMV. Blue Book doesn’t reflect these aforementioned conditions. And value is both subjective to geography, and can only truly be measured by how much someone else is willing to pay. Advertised “Buy It Now” prices are often egregiously inflated.
  6. Not a clue. But I’ll dig through my reference materials. Could you post a picture?
  7. A quick online search shows similar models from the aforementioned companies, but only one with the MFCa logo on the grips. Here’s the link: http://meridenfirearms.com/pistol.html Looks like PaleWolf Brunelle beat me to it!
  8. It looks like an Iver Johnson, which means it may also be a US Revolver company product as IJ made both. But it could also be one of the similar variants made by H&R, Hopkins and Allen, or Meriden Firearms, and/or a Spanish company who’s name I’ve forgotten. If it’s the Spanish version, it should have a Spanish proof mark on the frame somewhere, possibly under the grips. Are there any other markings you can see?
  9. Very Sorry to hear. Our prayers and condolences to his family and all who's lives his touched.
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