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Tequila Shooter

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Posts posted by Tequila Shooter

  1. There’s one more thing that I do that may help you.  I never pour from the bottle into powder reservoir directly, I use a plastic funnel, if there’s any clumps it can’t get through.  Take your powder through tube and make sure that it’s clean, if you’re thinking that it’s galled them just get some fine sandpaper wrapped on a dowel and lightly sand it.  Shooter’s World is made by APP (just as Black MZ was), I was given a bottle when it first came out to try.  It works ok the only thing that I found was the granulation was not as consistent as APP label.  BTW your powder reservoir is too clean :P

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  2. What caliber are you loading?  Have you tried using the large powder die, this usually works better (for APP) than the small.  I know you said that you cleaned it, but I’d make sure that you clean from the powder hopper on down and dry well (use compressed air and allow to dry overnight) before putting any powder in.  In 2 years I haven’t had a problem measuring using this method with 3F APP.  Oh and as far as the fast vs. slow pull I’m partial to slow, it’s probably me but I think it gives the powder a chance move where it needs to.

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  3. 53 minutes ago, Pat Riot, SASS #13748 said:

    Actually, I did not...I don’t regret it. My retirements are spread across 3 different accounts plus social security. 

     

    Remember military retirement is taxable but VA benefits are not.

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  4. 4 hours ago, Badger Mountain Charlie SASS #43172 said:

    Stand by folks. You heard it here, big smackdown in Tennessee coming up.

    We ain't right sure when, but some time in the near future. 

    From what I gather, we have 'nanner splits vs. a '97 smoothbore. 

    Not quite sure what that means. 

    Hard to understand those Tennessee boys when they get all lathered up over trifles. 

    I expect the speculators (bookies) will be coming out of the woodwork soon, so bring your poke. 

     

     

    Don’t forget the secret chunky lube. :ph34r:

  5. 1 hour ago, Widder, SASS #59054 said:

     

    Red Knee says the Re-Match is scheduled for October 2022.  

    I'll be nearly 72 years old by then and he thinks that might help give him the edge he needs.

    This could be his 'Last Stand at Fort Wartrace'.

     

    Time will tell. 

     

    ..........Widder

     

     

    Too bad!  I’m going to TN this year and was hoping to hear some smack talk and see a good ‘ole azz kickin’ 

  6. 53 minutes ago, Diamond Jake said:

     

    I'm confused by this too. Am I missing something?

     

    I understand why people might want to use plastic wads in plastic hulls, but you certainly don't have to.  I've only reloaded and shot a couple hundred shells since i started this a few months ago, but every one has been with fiber wads.  I patterned several and didn't have the issues with donut holes.

     

    The main reason I use fiber wads is simplicity; I was confused over all the recommendations of which wads go with which hulls.  I reload several different brands of hulls, mostly from my own factory shells, and I shoot whatever cheap factory loads I can find.  Fiber wads work just as well in Federal, Winchester, Remington, Estate, Herters...

     

    Fiber wads are also easily adjustable by cutting them thinner or adding another wad, depending on how much powder or shot I want in that load.

     

    I'm also not keen on leaving all the plastic wads on the ground where I practice, and they are a pain to find and pick up.

     

    You’re probably not the first, but you are the first that I’ve heard of to use fiber wads in plastic hulls.  If it works for you then keep doing it.  Personally I’m using fiber wads, but it’s in brass hulls, and I use them because of the way I clean my gun. 

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  7. 3 hours ago, Marshall Dillon said:

    The plastic hulls will be the problem so far. After i trim the crimp from the fired hull, it is 2.187 long. Then after roll crimping, it is about 2.06 long. The lever shotgun did not really feed them good. On one i managed to get trimmed to about 2.36 and roll crimped,,,cycled considerably better. Trimming half of the 8 point star crimp and getting it to roll crimp does not look very hopeful to me so far. I threw away about 20 cases this morning trying. 

     

    Brand new hulls 2.50 long are expensive i see, if they were available. 

     

    The price of brass hulls have gone up they were $25 a box.

  8. @Marshall Dillon  Here are a couple things to keep in mind.  When you make up your SG rounds (whatever load you decide on) before you make a bunch take a few of the shells out and pattern them.  Shot shells are not like cartridges, change the amount of charge, change the amount of shot, change the column height and you’ll get different results.  When you pattern them you’re looking for a spread that is consistent, you don’t want to make a doughnut with a hole in the middle.  Using what’s considered a square load (for the distance we shoot) is usually good enough.  

     

    Wads - two schools of thought here.  When loading brassies you can use either plastic or fiber wads.  The plastic wads are faster to load than fiber, but cleaning plastic out of the barrels takes longer than fiber.  Others will argue that cleaning after plastic is easy enough, you’ll have to see for yourself.  If you use plastic hulls you won’t have a choice you’ll have to use plastic wads.

     

    BP in Plastic Hulls - BP and BP Subs are burn hotter than that heathen smokeless so you’re only going to get one maybe two reloads with plastic hulls before they become too brittle.  If you load brassies, as long as no one steps on them they’ll last a lifetime.

     

    Thin wall vs. thick wall hulls - most brass hulls, like Magtech, are thin wall, you can still buy thick wall hulls but they are a lot more money.  The thin wall use a LPP while the thick wall use a 209 primer.  Also, the size of wad and overshot card will be different between thick and thin wall.

     

    Roll crimping - if you’re using a SxS SG then brassies don’t need to be rolled, I can’t speak for the 97’s.  Roll crimps make putting in wads and cards a PIA not impossible but a little more challenging.  The roll crimp on brass shells won’t come out after shooting.  With plastic hulls roll crimping takes more time than star crimping but with the roll crimp you can get a better seal over the shot.  

     

    I hope this helps, maybe a little to basic for your knowledge level, so please don’t be insulted.

  9. 20 hours ago, The Dynamite Kid said:

    Thanks guys, great info.  I decided I better not pass up the $550 Stoeger 12.  Picked it up today.  Time to slick that sucker up!

     

    Dynamite

     

    Here’s a link to Marauder’s page on how to slick up a Stoeger.  Marauder.  He’s got a lot of useful information for a lot of different guns.  Hope it helps.  Here’s another link to Manny CA’s YouTube video for a Stoeger  Manny CA

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