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Brooklyn Slim

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About Brooklyn Slim

  • Birthday 01/25/1943

Previous Fields

  • SASS #
    95085
  • SASS Affiliated Club
    West Shore Posse

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    South Central PA
  • Interests
    Family, Garden Railroad, Antique Post Cards, CAS

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  1. Went to the local range this PM. Loaded 5 C&B cylinders with 2F BP, Cabelas lubed felt wad on the powder, seated a ball, then a wax wad to close the cylinder. Loaded 6 chambers. Liberally lubed the cylinder pin with Bore Butter, lubed the cylinder hole, lubed the front and rear of the cylinder, ran a wad with Bore Butter Down the barrel, several times. My goal was to shoot 5 cylinders (30 shots total) in a row. Was 10 yards from a 3 gun style cardboard target with a 6 inch "shoot n see" pasted. First cylinder was OK, all 6 shots in the black with 2 near the center. By the time I shot the 5th cylinder, I had no idea where the balls went. Completely missed the 3 gun target, which is a good size piece of cardboard. No binding noticed, but the cylinder pin was very hot, almost too hot to touch. Bore Butter worked for the binding problem, but not so for barrel fouling. When I finished everything, including me, was covered with fouled bore butter. What a mess, but what fun! Anything else I could do to maintain accuracy?
  2. This is what I would like to be able to do. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3kqEgijuCu4 Local range does falling steel shoots, with as many as 30 knockdown steel targets. I don't compete any more, but it is a fun way to shoot with Remington revolvers, if I can love the fouling problem. Will try Bore Butter before attempting to modify the cylinder pin.
  3. I do use Mobil 1 grease on the 1858 revolver. Didn't seem to help much compared to other lubes.
  4. Thanks for taking the time to share your experience. Sounds like the modification works well. If I can get through 6 cylinders w/o cleaning, I'll be very happy. Good advice on getting a backup cylinder pin, will order one tomorrow.
  5. Love the 1858 Remmy, and have a SS Pietta, with a few extra C&B cylinders. When I swap cylinders usually can't finish shooting the second cylinder because the cylinder binds up from fouling. Frustrating! I lube well with various lubes without much success. Then I watched a youtube where a gent fired off 5 or six cylinders in a row with no apparent problems. After a few searches I came across a gent who filed grooves around the cylinder pin similar to the grooves on the 1860 Colt C&B. Claimed the grooves allowed the lube migrate around the cylinder pin, keeping the fowling from binding the cylinder. Was wondering if anyone here tried this and whether they had improved function and longer shooting times. Appreciate any advice and sharing of experiences. Brooklyn Slim
  6. Many thanks for the tip. I'll be contacting them. B Slim
  7. Need help. Looking for Period Corr (OOPS! I mean historically accurate) front and rear sights. Do not intend for serious long range competition, mostly 200 yards or less but don't want to rule out longer distance if opportunity arises. Need something useful and easy to use. Looking at one of the following. http://www.brownells.com/rifle-parts/sights/rear-sights/goodwin-style-creedmoor-sight-sku100010691-23126-105878.aspx Don't understand the difference between the Soule and Creedmore sights, and understand these sights must be removed to clean the barrel. The Goodwin type, according to the reviews, allows clearance to clean the barrel with the sight on the rifle. When these sights are folded down, is it still possible to use the original sight that came with the gun? Suggestions for front sight? Appreciate advice. B Slim
  8. Ramming the patched ball down a rifled musket requires considerable effort. If the firearm came with a wooden ram rod, I suggest getting a brass or fiber rod. The wood will bend, and break if not supported. Cleaning between shots is necessary to be able to ram subsequent patched balls down. B Slim
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