Hawkeye Kid

Back at the range again today. 100 rounds without a problem firing slow and as fast as I could go. Next project is to install a short stroke kit. Thanks for all the suggestions.

No factory ammo. Only light cowboy loads all at 1.58 LOA.

Took two trips to the range. Working about 95% of the time still get an occasional jam. Little jiggle of lever, jam round will cycle. Little more filing and polishing should be good to go. Was a lot more than expected to getting this rifle to work.

Took a lot of metal off to make the ramp. Seems to work with a few test rounds. Off to the range to really test.

There’s no clearance between the back of the gate and lifter arm to add a shim to make the loading spoon longer. Maybe something could be fabricated to fit inside the spoon, but not on back side

Some new photos of the issue. First is a 73, note how the loading gate tab fills the space between the frame. Second photo is the 1860 without loading gate. The jam is when round bounces over the right side of frame. Third photo is with loading gate. The void on the left is not filled compared to the 73, Fourth photo is the loading gate.

Not going to work, when cycling the carrier hit the extension.

Loading gate installed. Not sure how well JB Weld and plastic will hold up, will give it a try tomorrow at the range.

Not that I can determine. Rifle was sold as new never fired. Iam trying out Jack Slade’s suggest on adding some material to extend loading ramp. J B weld a piece of plastic that may stop round from bouncing over frame stop.

Need so good advice on fixing a cartridge jam when cycling the rifle. This jam does not occur on the first round it happens intermittently on the second or third or …. The first photo with loading gate removed for clarity, shows how the cartridge should feed from magazine tube to the carrier. Second & third photo is the jam where the rim of the cartridge pops up over the frame (part circled in black in first photo) and jams when cycling lever. Tried filling a ramp on the mortise, only willing to go so far removing metal.

Btt

BTT

One more time BTT

BTT

BTT

38/357 caliber Limited Series Winchester (Miroku)1873 Trapper. 16” barrel, 35” overall length, 13” length of pull. Perfect for a youth/ sa all frame shooter. Will hold 10 rounds of 38 special loaded to 1.515”. Only test fired, never used in a match. Comes with original factory box and paperwork. $1,500 plus shipping from my FFL to yours.

38/357 caliber Winchester 1873 (Miroku) imported by Navy Arms. This is the deluxe version that Capt. Baylor reviewed in the October 2016 Chronicle. 20” barrel, case hardening and bluing by Turnbull Restorations. Deluxe walnut stock and forearm with full checkering. Checkered steel butt plate. Extras include action job by Cody Conagher, Surehit front sight, lever wrap, leather butt cover, solid firing pin extension. Shot in a few local matches, minor cart ding. Comes with original factory box and paperwork. $2,800 plus shipping from my FFL to yours.

Flanagan, Tip - next practice when drawing pistols, have free hand on other pistol. If pistols are last, don’t wait to holster first pistol before drawing second. Hold first pistol out (don’t break 170) and shoot second pistol.

None at all. The Henry is short stroked, all I did was modify the carrier with a stop ( set screw) to compensate for the cartridge length. The front end of the bolt also needed a little filing to clear the set screw.

I do sometimes. A Uberti Henry with a 18.5 “ barrel. I use the 160gr or 170gr RNFP bullets. Same 3.6 gr of TB load. Also have used 3.8gr of WST with good success.

There is a knob on one of the links that retracts the firing pin. On many originals the knob is worn down. Firing pin will still retract by inertia.

Send your bolt to Shotgun Boogie and have him install one of this spring loaded extractor. There are also some after market extractors available that are much better than factory. Try Online Outpost.

I use 3.6gr TB for 130gr to 160gr. Same load for rifle or pistol.

Just take a pair of pliers and bend the level. You don’t even have to remove it from the gun. Don’t forget to tape plier jaws.

Would like to see pictures of the internal parts. The short strokes on the Pietta Eliminators are very unreliable. Pietta thinned the end of the trigger to where it easier broke. The Eliminators also had timing issues, can see why Pietta extended the cylinder notches. If the new revolvers are reliable, and work as described, $900 is not an unreasonable price for a firearm that is competition ready out of the box.