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Marauder SASS #13056

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Posts posted by Marauder SASS #13056


  1. Cliff Hanger identified the main problem.  To keep costs down, that area is not properly finished. 

    The sliding lock needs to engage most of the lock.  Since the steel isn't TOO hard, it will wear under the pressures.  Then the angle is such that the lock will open.

     

    Stoeger's solution is to use a stronger spring on the lever, but it would not be needed if the parts fit properly.  So it is a "fix" but not the best solution.

     

    A smith can adjust the "timing" to make the lock advance further - and it can be done in a reasonable amount of time..  It is best to do that when new.  Then a larger surface drastically reduces the wear.

    • Like 1

  2. Fortunately, most firearms needs for lubrication are not too tough, so we can get buy with rather limited ability lubricants - such as mineral oil (Ballistal). But they are not the best lubes available.

     

    As others have said, grease is a much superior lubricant, but not applicable where too much crud can accumulate.   But they work great for internal, especially where ever higher pressure is involved.

    I like the synthetic oils (and grease).  For the money Mobil 1 is very good.  Lucas stuff and others is also very good.  Eezox is fine, but I prefer Frog Lube or Seal 1 for a general lubricant and especially rust preventative (one of the very best).  I was surprised to see how good Frog Lube and Seal 1 are  - excellent rust prevention and some of the top for reducing friction.

     

    Research lubrication for bicycles as they require top quality lubrication.


  3. For those who have experienced a wide variety of ranges, Palo Verde brings up a good point about what is behind the targets.  If it is a mix of grass, weeds and branches, it is much more difficult to see where the bullet went if it missed.  You will not be able to go by any dirt flying.  Then add being in the shade and spotting is much more difficult to do properly.

     

    As many have mentioned, having a nice dusty back stop is a great aid for spotting (except when you have an edger). 

     

    So some extra guidance may be helpful for those shaded targets with a nice green leafy background.

     


  4. Just remember you are there to have fun!

     

    So enjoy chatting with the other spotters as much as you can. 

     

    Talk things over with the other spectators as you watch and critique the shooter. 

     

    If you do miss something, be sure to look at the other spotters to see what they scored.

     

    If it is sunny, be sure to wear dark glasses and keep your hat down to block the sun as much as possible.

     

    If possible, be close to the timer operator, since he or she is a buddy and you can bump into them sometimes.

     

    Make sure you are on the firing line to get the best place to see everything.

     

    Be sure to watch the T.O to ensure they are doing things correctly.

     

     

    :huh::o:blink:

     

     

     

    • Haha 4

  5. It was once fairly common to out run our guns, especially rifles.  That was before gunsmiths figured out how to best tune them.  Win 92's and Marlins were notorious for this.  If you got split times below 0.4, you would often see problems.  I got a little lower by loading longer bullets - that was with both 92's and Marlin 94's..  The tuned 73's were much better.  Then they figured out how to make the Marlins keep up with the 73's again.

     

    Now only a few normally outrun the guns as Junky and Smokestack mentioned.

    • Thanks 2

  6. I don't think we need to require stages to be written for just one categories (BW & GF). 

     

    The book clarifies that saying first and second pistol  that for GF style, it means first 5 shots and second 5 shots.

     

    And yes,m I've experimented with GF long before it was an allowed category.  And have worked with and shot with several top gunfighters included world champions.  And I encourage and support that style as it is a fun challenge.


  7. And to chamber lengths.  The standard was for roll-crimped cartridges as he mentioned in the video. 

    All 1897 shotguns use that slightly shorter chamber even though they are marked as 2 3/4 inch

    They mean 2 3/4 inch with a roll crimp so they are all at least 1/8 inch or more shorter than modern chambers.

     

    England and Europe have experimented and even cut  barrels (longitudinally) to see the impact.  With the forcing cone, there IS enough room for the shell to fully open.  But you have now effectively shortened the standard forcing cone from 1/2 inch to about 1/4 inch.  So the pressures are still probably safe, but more than you would like.

    Most 97's have thick enough barrels they may readily have the chamber slightly lengthened and forcing cone cut to the modern 1 1/2 inch.  But some solid frame 97's do have lighter barrels that probably should not have the cone lengthened that much.  Just not enough metal left.

    • Thanks 2

  8.  

    Much has been argued about this gun.   The various safety issues do require caution, but I do believe they can be addressed.   Assuming that the issues are properly addressed.  Assuming that the gun is in proper working order, and that you are using either short black powder shells, or have lengthened the chamber to allow for the use of modern length ones, but still loaded with black powder, it should be safe to fire.   Just like  an original 87, a Spencer, a Burgess, or even, gasp, a 93.  That being said, yes, there is a lot more to consider than just the length of the chamber.  I did see one once at a localgun shop once, and it failed all the safety checks, so I passed on it.  I saw another one at a nearby Cabelas, a "newer" one that was in riot gun configuration.  It looked to be in pretty good shape, but the store would not take off the trigger guard to allow me to do the safety checks.  Nor would the clerks take it out back and perform the checks themselves.   Needless to say, I passed on it.   I regretted letting that one go as it looked really neat, but there was no way I was gonna get it without checking to see if it was in proper working order.

     

    As to the properness of this, and other early pump guns being not allowed in our game, well, with the very real concerns over the Marlin, I get it.  I don't understand the others being banned, or the 93/97 while we are at it, as I know of no real safety issues with them beyond the exact same ones that exist with original 87s, that is to say short chambers and black powder, and that gun is allowed, so why not the early pumps.   All of that said, I think that ultimately, safety is up to the shooter, not to the organization.   I would be willing to admit that not allowing the Marlin is a wise safety precaution, but not the others.

    As far as "Marlin" saying don't shoot the gun, it has been stated here that the company that made that announcement was technically not the same one that made the guns, but I am unclear on that detail, so I'll let it go.

     

    One final caveat, I have no idea if later production guns have proper length chambers and if they were made for smokeless or not.  That is why I universally assume short and black only.

     

    A great video!!

     

    Yes, I got the information for the web page from Rusty Marlin.

     

    I used to agree with you about the Marlins.  I had one, a later version. (They made various version up to model 42 built into the 1920's).  Another SASS pard had I believe the 1919 version.

    We ran all the tests and the gun worked just fine.

     

    We were shooting it at the range.  A sliver of metal broke off the frame broke and shot into the shooters face, right below his right eye and stuck in his face.  A bit bloody, rather painful and definitely scary!

     

    So after all our checking and testing, the gun still failed and injured the shooter.  That was enough for me.

     

    The metal is not consistently good in these and many other  guns (especially prior to 1918).  Plus, as shown in the video, the safety features are often small metal pieces.  They are prone to wear and fail unpredictably.

     

    As a follow-up, I was talking with my brother about it and he remembered that in the 1950's my uncle had one fail while duck hunter.  He came home with a bloody, beaten face.  Fortunately he kept his eye and my Dad's first aid saved most of his face, except for a few scars.

     

    So, what is it worth?

    • Thanks 2

  9. Also, did you check the ejector spring?  That is normally the first wear point.

    http://marauder.homestead.com/files/97parts.htm

     

    Then as you mention, the left and right extractors are possible problems.  The tail spring failing on the left and the coil spring wearing on the right. 

     

    Plus wear causing the shape to deteriorate.

    The mod to convert from the tail (leaf) spring) to coil is good, but you do not need a very strong coil spring or it can accelerate wear and make the action a little harder to work.  A new left extractor as shown above can last many years.

     

     


  10. To check the flag, open the action.  Then watch that thin flag as you slowly close the action.  The flag should pop up as you begin to move the bolt forward. 

     

    As Mark mentioned, the purpose is to ensure the shell does not escape.

    A problem with the 1893 model was sometimes the shell could partially escape and the right cartridge guide/extractor would hit the primer and make a very bad boom.  The flag was designed to avoid that problem, so it needs to work properly.

     

    http://marauder.homestead.com/Shotgun.html

     

    And youtube is your friend.

    • Thanks 2
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