Chief Rick
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Posts posted by Chief Rick
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Did Ruger make any Vaquero's (New or Old) in 44-40.
Either regular or Bisley grips?
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For monthly matches, the starting line I write in the shooter package I email out and post online is "State when ready".
For an annual, sometimes a movie/TV line, sometimes something I make up. But, for an annual, I post the starting line at all starting positions.
Oh, and keep the starting lines short/simple.
The longer the starting line, the more likely I am going to say "let 'er buck".
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Animated today is not what a lot of us grew up with.
It can be done tastefully for adults.
Animation will also allow voice actors to take on roles of characters if the series is successful beyond the desires of the current actors.
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16 minutes ago, Alpo said:
I never saw it on television, but my understanding is they did not show them in the order they were shot. They did not show them in the order they were supposed to be shown.
That is correct.
Not only not in the correct order but they would cancel a showing (preempt) for other shows at the last minute.
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54 minutes ago, Stump Water said:
Yeah, I'm a bit puzzled too. Of course I don't shoot PRS either.
I'd like to see the finished result when you get 'er done. 🙂
I'm putting this project on hold for now.
I'm working on a trade for a chassis that already has a bag rider. Gentleman is willing to trade straight for a scope that I happen to have that I just took off another rifle.
I prefer the look of a traditional stock over a chassis and the feel of fiberglass over aluminum, but...
This is what's currently on the rifle (only in green):
This is what I'm now planning to put on the rifle:
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54 minutes ago, Stump Water said:
Likewise.
So you build your PRS gun with one of the chassis style "stocks". Then you have to get this bag rider so the butt of it will "interface" with the rear bag like a regular ol' rifle stock.Ok.Well, I'm not shooting PRS and never have. I read the quote above but I don't see how a bag rider will aid positional shooting in PRS. In my limited experience, these work best from a bench or prone.
For me, this is for a bench gun - specifically for 22LR Long Gong matches.
It's been driving me crazy that almost all fiberglass stocks come with a cut out under the stock these days (hand-grab/butt hook - I don't know what it's called). And on top of that, most of these don't have an easy way of attaching pic rail or a bag rider directly.
34 minutes ago, PowderRiverCowboy said:How much torque do you need?
If not Much a simple Helicoil kit and epoxy or Fiberglass epoxy if you have it
I would not think much. The rifle is heavy but it's going to to be shot from a bench and is chambered in 22LR.
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I've read a little and watched a couple of videos.
It quite frankly just doesn't interest me, but I'm not a techy person.
That said, I am interested in WinLink for EmCom in case we have another Katrina level event down here along the coast.
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36 minutes ago, Sedalia Dave said:
Use AcraGlass. It's specifically made for gunstocks.
Brownells carries it.
You mean instead of 2-part epoxy?
I had a though of cutting the ends off a couple of older arrows I have and epoxying them into the stock. I believe the inserts on the arrows are threaded 8-32. Thoughts?
Or should I use a 1/2" long, 10-24 threaded insert?
I don't think I trust a rivnut. I don't know how thick or strong the fiberglass is.
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I have a fiberglass stock (Graeboe Ridgeback) that I want to put a bag rider on.
Problem is, there's no picatinny rail on the bottom of the buttstock.
Was thinking of drilling a hole and using epoxy for a nutsert or similar in order to attach a short piece of picatinny..
Looking for recommendations on accomplishing this.
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33 minutes ago, Subdeacon Joe said:
Actually, no. Pretty solid person.
But how was my initial impression...just drawn, hands hadn't fully mated up yet?
The scene looks familiar, I may have seen the video it's from. A relaxed grip, but when it was time to pull the trigger, his actual shooting grip was pretty close to textbook.
Sorry, but a "pretty solid person" doesn't critique based on one frame of video.
I'm not an expert, but there's no way I would critique this officer's grip based on a single picture. There's not enough to base a critique on.
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26 minutes ago, Subdeacon Joe said:
i pointed out that it was real life, not the range, and that the officer had probably just drawn. Got back that it didn't matter, it should still be perfect.
This from a keyboard commando being a Monday morning quarterback. A person that's never been in a compromising situation in their life, unless you include running out of soy milk for their latte.
You can't educate people like that.
I try to stay away from them.
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@Widder, SASS #59054 what is the thread pitch on the barrel? I can't find that info.
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I am specifically looking at the Bambu Labs H2S.
I want the larger bed to build cosplay stuff for my daughters and maybe even for me (I've wanted a set Mandalorian armor for many years).
If not for wanting to print the larger items, I would definitely order the P2S and save a lot of money.
The P2S has a 10" x 10" x 10" print area.
The H2S has a 13.38" W x 12.59" D x 13.38" H print area.
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6 minutes ago, DeaconKC said:
I'm on my 3rd #D FDM printer, this one is a Anycubic Kobra and I am very pleased with it. FDM printed stuff is a bit more rugged than resin. Also, odors can be a problem, especially with the resin printers. I printed this up for a game the other day, the base is 30mm so you can get an idea of the detail possible with FDM, resin will turn out even better detail.
Not familiar with that printer.
The Bambu Labs have a couple of different nozzle sizes; .2mm, .4mm, .6mm, and .8mm.
Are you using a smaller nozzle for that detail?
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36 minutes ago, Shawnee Hills said:
Been running a Bambu P1S printer since last September and added another in December. Both of them are set up with a pair of AMS 2 Pros and a single HT. They've both been running almost nonstop since setup printing things for the wife, grandson, shop, reloaders, or range. Although you can find a ton of things on line that are ready to print, there will be times that you'll need to design a part yourself. A lot of folks will recommend using TinkerCAD but I found it frustrating. I'm currently learning Fusion 360 and it makes much more sense to me.
Fair warning about 3D printing . . . it can be a bottomless rabbit hole. My intention when getting the first machine was to simply use it to print a few things that were needed around the house. That all changed once I discovered how useful they can be, especially if you can create your own designs.
Do you find yourself using the same type of filament for most projects? Any filaments that you find particularly useful for a specific project?
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24 minutes ago, Larsen E. Pettifogger, SASS #32933 said:
Do you have to use 3D glasses when using the machine?
Only if you're special.
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23 minutes ago, Shawnee Hills said:
Been shooting a Ravin R10 for the past 4 years and love it. It's incredibly accurate out to 100 yards but I limit all shots to 50 or less. It's high-quality built and was bought for less than $1k.
Traditionalists like to bang on those that use xbows but their legalization has resulting in more hunters out harvesting deer, and that's a good thing. The numbers of hunters in the Midwest have been dropping steadily for a while and whitetail populations have grown as a result. Hunting is the best way to keep those populations in check so state agencies are often exploring more ways to get hunters back in the field.
Traditionalists? No - otherwise they'd still be using a traditional string bow or a spear...
Just cantankerous people.
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Since you didn't ask for my opinion on using a crossbow I'll try to give you information that may benefit you.
I hunted with a Barnett crossbow for a couple of seasons.
I found it very accurate out to 50 yards.
When looking at crossbows, two things I look for are weight and noise.
The really powerful crossbows can be really loud. How loud a crossbow is isn't something that is generally either measured or easily found. I'd try to find a pro shop to shoot one if possible.
The weight on most crossbows, especially conventionally designed ones, are carried out forward. This can make getting through the woods more cumbersome than when hunting with a rifle or a bow.
When I was last researching crossbows, I kept gravitating to the Excalibur recurve crossbows.
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Anybody running one?
What are you making?
I'm looking at one of the new Bambu Labs enclosed units to make stuff for myself and my grand baby.
I've never used one before.
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@Widder, SASS #59054 based on your sample of one, would you recommend this rifle? While I detest the big loop lever, I've been wanting a 454 Casull lever action rifle for a long time. And the ability to put a red dot on it makes it even more desirable to my blind eyes.
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2 hours ago, Buckshot Bear said:
Professional Grade - It's the one that your middle finger doesn't tear through
In my experience - it's the exact opposite!
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That right there is single-ply sand paper!
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How about posting some pics of your annual, state, regional or national match name badges?
I'm interested in seeing what's been worn. Maybe give some ideas for others going forward.
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Not as much for CAS but very popular in the long range shooting world where brass is typically better taken care of.
Getting your fire formed brass back and being able to differentiate how many firings makes a big difference to some shooters/reloaders.
If you don't get it - don't worry about it and move along.
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44-40 Rugers
in SASS Wire
Posted
You could always PM me if you thought they needed a new home...
Just sayin'.😁
Seriously.