Larsen E. Pettifogger, SASS #32933
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Posts posted by Larsen E. Pettifogger, SASS #32933
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VTI, Taylors, EMF, Cimarron. Of just skip the factory springs and get a Lee or Wolff.
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Larson, there are parts for the lightning rifles. Eldon Penner sells them and as of my last conversation he is still making parts. I know for a fact that in addition to original Lighting rifles he makes parts for the AWA as I have purchased some from him. Before he retired from gunsmith work, and went into parts only, he was an excellent, and probably the best Lightning gunsmith in the business.
So if anyone needs parts, contact him. You can find his alais here in the web site, it is El Rod.
I haven't seen him for several years. The last time I talked to him he refused to just sell parts. Running "El Rod" here yields no results. Googling Eldon Penner does not show a website or address. So, for all practical purposes the parts are basically non-existent. If you have contact infomation it would be useful to print it.
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I spoke to them late last week. Yes!! Open for business
Good. The only American I have left is an old M-7 lightweight.
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Wow, that price list is from 2008. I wonder if they are even still in business? I haven't seen a new one on a dealer's shelf in a long time.
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Bought one a year or so ago in .45 Colt. Functions pretty smooth,has the nice wood. I just might have to shoot it this summer..............
You bought a Winchester by Miroku 66 a year ago? They only had a couple of engraved prototypes at the shot show a year ago. If you have a standard "production" model where did you get it?
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Some worked. Some did not. The early ones were marked "AWA International" and had functioning problems. The later ones were marked "AWA USA." Some of those ran fairlly well. There are no spare parts. I always tell people if you are going to shoot a Lightning it is going to become your second hobby. What's funny about Lightnings is they might cycle dummy rounds all day but as soon as you go to the range for some live fire they start to have problems. If you aren't a decent gun mechanic you might want to pass as sending them out to get worked on can be expensive and there are only one or two people that really know how to tune them.
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Hey Larson. I asked for Senior Classic Cowboy. If enough of us ask for that, will that be a recognized category? Ghost and I are long in the tooth, and I suspect we can scare up 4 or 10 others.
You'll have to ask the SASS front office what they are doing this year.
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All the distributors sell "competion" ready revolvers as well. Just helps to be clear what you are talking about when asking tech questions.
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Silngle shots aren't legal main match rifles either. Are you talking about a side match? Four guys standing in line for a side match ailn't the same as 400 guys waiting behind some one in the main match. In any event the 80's are long gone.
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The past couple of years you have to figure out the application form and check the appropriate boxes.
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Might be useful to specify whether you are talking about a rifle or a revolver. "1873" can be either.
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I do not encourage the use of non-SASS legal guns or equipment. It can lead to problems for shooters when they travel to a big match. Was at a Regional match once, lady shooter had a '93-'07 shotgun. Posse marshal told her she could not use that shotgun. She got upset, saying "I use it at home all the time, for three years now, why not here"? We showed here the rules, and she calmed down when I gave her my backup '97 to use.
In my opinion we do a severe disservice to shooters when we let hem get by with something that is not allowed at the State or above level matches.
+100%. I was at a very large match one time where they let a shooter use a muzzle loading rifle. Ten shots on the clock took a while. That shooter may have been having "fun" but for the other 289 people backed up in hour+ long delays on the other stages they were NOT having fun.
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Twelve inches out of a rest at two feet! Who'd a thunk it. At any rate you said you like the American Derringer. Americans do not have a rebounding hammer so one way to "select" the barrel is to look at the breech face when the barrels are open. If the firing pin is sticking out of the top hole the bottom barrel will fire first. If it is sticking out of the bottom hole the top barrel will fire first. After the first two shots it will continue to fire in the same order. (Unless you slip hammer or somthing else causes the hammer not to come fully back and the pins get out of sequence.) Another way is to look at the pivot in the hammer face. If you look carefully you can see what postion it is in and after a while you can tell what pin it is going to hit. One thing with American Derringers is that since they do not have rebounding hammers you have to make absolutely sure the hammer is placed on half-cock before closing the barrels with rounds loaded in them. Otherwise you could get a nice surprise.
Bottom firing pin protruding so the top barrel will be the next to fire.
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I know what stippling is. It is usually done on metal with a prick punch. I just wanted to make sure what the OP was talking about. The photo in number four was done by laser and either Drifter or Taz can do it.
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What do you mean by laser "stipling?" There are a couple of people that routinely show up at major matches to do laser engraving on wood. Drifter from (I believe) the Mid-West and Taz from New England attend many matches and both do great work. Taz is already parked at Ben Avery getting ready for Winter Range.
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Unless the target was the berm I doubt I could hit the target whether I shot the bottom or upper barrel first at 25 yards.
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Only on longer range shots. Close range it does not matter.
I have manned the derringer/pocket pistol side match at EOT for years and cannot recall anyone selecting the barrel. The target is only two feet away so the winner is determined by who can retrieve the gun off the table the fastest and who can then also manipulate the hammer the quickest. I like Smokestack's theory and he is experienced. But 99.99% of derringer shooters I see at side matches don't have the expertise for shooting a derringer where firing the lower barrel first would make any difference. The OP says he has never fired a derringer and knows nothing about them. I was more interested in why he perceives selecting a barrel to be relevant.
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Fun shoot but as noted the RV parking is strictly dry camping. Last year a bunch of us stayed at the Willow Wind RV park in downtown Hurricane. We reserved the party room and had a couple of very nice get togethers. There are a couple of nice places to eat in Hurricane and they are only a very short distance from the RV park.
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Every time you cock the hammer the firing pin moves from one barrel to the other. You could theoretically look at which firing pin is exposed and manipulate the hammer until you got it set to fire a particular barrel. It is not an over/under shotgun. One barrel isn't full and the other modified. It does not have a barrel selector switch. Out of curiosity what possible difference would it make which barrel fires first?
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They are putting pictures on the sole of boots now.
CLEARLY visible when ever you take a step.
I wonder what the ruling will be on this?
If it's your picture MDQ.
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You want a great side match gun - BOND!
You want a great concealed carry pocket piece? Smith Detective Special. No derringer fits the bill.
Good luck, GJ
+1. The question was about competition. If you want to compete the Bond is the choice. For self-defense a two shot die cast zamac derringer would not be high on my list.
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Nothing you can paint on will be permanent. What works well for many people is flat back modeler's paint in the rear sight notch. Then go to Home Deport and get a little bottle of applicance touch-up paint for the rear surface of the front sight. White shows up surprisingly well and the applicance paint is fairly durable.
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If you want to compete you want a Bond. As far as caliber you do NOT want a .45. The object is two quick shots. The winners normally get both shots off in less than a second. No matter how you load a .45 the recoil is not conducive to getting off two QUICK shots.
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Don't you have to worry about setting off a cap by pushing on it with something hard? Saw a pic once of an exploded thumb from pushing on a cap with it. Just curious.
There's hard and then there is HARD. No one in their right mind is going to use a steel rod to push on a cap. Most people use deer antler, a piece of wooden dowel or plastic. One of the purposes is so you don't wind up with an exploded thumb. Remember the word "pushing." The object is not to hammer, smash, use a hydralic press, etc., the object is to "push" the cap on until it seats. Many posts are made about center fire rounds not going off on the first hit. The first question usually asked is are the primers seated to the bottom of the primer pocket? Same with a C&B. You want the top of the nipple cone to be in contact with the priming compound inside the cap. You also want a friction fit between the nipple and cap otherwise the cap will fall off when the gun fires. So with proper fitting nipples AND caps they are a sliding fit and merely need to be "pushed" onto the nipple. Anything other than that and the shooter needs to work on their nipple/cap fit.
Uberti parts
in SASS Wire
Posted · Edited by Larsen E. Pettifogger, SASS #32933
Numrich frequently just gets generic parts. You just need a spring for a SAA. Some springs do need a little fitting if they bump on the back of the hammer when it is cocked.
Either of these should work fine.
http://www.brownells.com/handgun-parts/trigger-group-parts/performance-enhancing-kits/gunslinger-handgun-spring-kits-prod1577.aspx
http://www.brownells.com/handgun-parts/frame-parts/mainspring-parts/mainsprings/saa-cowboy-action-springs-prod16557.aspx
Or for a stock spring scroll down to #36. Although I can't imagine why anyone would want a stock spring when the aftermarket tuned springs are about the same price.
http://www.brownells.com/schematics/Uberti-/1873-Cattleman-S-A--sid325.aspx