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Larsen E. Pettifogger, SASS #32933

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Posts posted by Larsen E. Pettifogger, SASS #32933

  1. 39 minutes ago, Major E A Sterner #12916 said:

    The 66 style loading gate for the 73 does not need to be re enforced.It's the much smaller tab on the 66 loading gate that breaks and jams the action up.


    Let's not get into that confusion again.  The gate in question is NOT a 66 gate it is for a 73.  Nothing to do with a 66 gate or reinforcement.

  2. Those are modern frames that use the wire trigger return spring.  You can see the spring retaining pin hole and the hooks the legs hook over.  Guys the OP is looking for THREE SCREW frames.  These are the old pre-transfer bar models that had a hole behind the trigger and used a coil spring and plunger to push the trigger forward.  Those have not been made for almost 50 years and are getting hard to find.  I use to pick them up on EBay but have not seen any on there for a while.  OP, good luck.

  3. The descriptions says "66 style Uberti 1873 loading gate."  Sligthly confusing but the description and text below it say it is for a 73.  The "style" means it is not dished like a factory 73 it is troughed like a 66.  Supposedly makes loaded rounds easier.

    • Like 1
  4. Top, old style 66 loading gate with solid welded tab.  They quit making these years ago.  Next, bent tab gate with the tab broken off. This is what current Uberti and most replacements are.  Bottom, bent tab gate with metal bar soldered behind the tab.  This is usually a permanent fix.


    Someone sent you the wrong gate.  As noted the one in the photo is for a 73.



    • Like 2
  5. 2 hours ago, Ozark Okie said:

    Been thinking about Warden's last post..."buy another gun and transfer parts.....", especially since I know of another Model 1893...its a 38-55 in decent shape


    Does anyone know what parts from the 38 55  might be usable in a 32 40......would the bolt and lever work?  Doubt if the bolt could because of the difference in diameter, but Marlin bolts do seem to be something of a mystery. . Of course, I recognize that the 38 55 might be more desirable/valuable then the 32 40.....but just



    Thanks again for all the interesting feedback. 



    I guess I am missing something.  Why would you take a .38-55 in decent shape and transfer the parts to a junker gun?  Then you wind up with two beaters.

  6. If you spend two or three years and several thousand dollars in parts and labor fitting the parts and wood you will wind up with a good solid $500.00 gun.  The original configuration looks like a half-round/half-octagon barrel with a button magazine.  That would be a good find if the gun were whole.  If it got hot enough to warp the barrel you have a nice wall hanger.  Make up a story to go with it.

  7. TO "Shooter ready?"


    Shooter "What?"


    TO moves timer closer -


    TO "Shooter Ready?"


    Shooter "What!?"


    TO, "I'll touch your shoulder when the beep goes off."


    Shooter "Just move the timer closer to my left ear."


    TO "Shooter Ready?"


    Shooter "What?"



    • Haha 5
  8. For example, here is a snippet of guideance from ATF -


    May a nonlicensee ship a firearm through the U.S. Postal Service?

    A nonlicensee may not transfer a firearm to a non-licensed resident of another state. A nonlicensee may mail a shotgun or rifle to a resident of their own state or to a licensee in any state.

    The U.S. Postal Service recommends that long guns be sent by registered mail and that no marking of any kind which would indicate the nature of the contents be placed on the outside of any parcel containing firearms.




    I added the bold italics in the last sentence.  The P.O. does not want markings on the box indicating there is a firearm inside.  The clerks don't need to know what is inside either.  That is an invitation to theft.  If there is another P.O. in your area I would just go to a different P.O.


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