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Posts posted by Larsen E. Pettifogger, SASS #32933
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There are few aftermarket parts because there are few Winchester Miroku 73s in circulation. Not worth tooling up parts if you are only going to sell a handful. The Miroku is designed differently than an original or the Uberti 73. What are you trying to accomplish? I have found that due to the lack of aftermarket parts and the scarcity of factory replacement parts a few little cautious tweaks to the Miroku make a big difference. For example, the lifter and lever springs on the Miroku (top) are basically flat and quite flexible. When installed they have very little bend in them. The Uberti and Winchester and quite arched and very stiff and as you tighten them they straighten out quite a lot.
What I have found that works quite well is to simply put a washer between the spring and the seat. This makes a noticeable difference since as previously noted there is very little bend in the springs when they are installed.
The mainspring has the same characteristics. It is relatively flat and does not flex near as much as the Uberti or Winchester. EXTREME caution needs to be excercised if you are going to attempt to modify the factory spring unless you have a replacement in hand. It can go from plenty of pressure to almost none with just a few thousands of an inch of material removed from it.
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1 hour ago, Texas Maverick said:
Scarlett Darling sent this to me a few years back.
· AA or STS
· Cleanshot Powder
· #18 MEC Bushing
· 7/8 Oz shot
TM
Not really useful information. There is no wad given and more importantly there is no charge weight. MEC bushing charge weights are STARTING points. The chances that the charge will weigh what the chart says is virtually zero. Powder density varies between batches. Charge weight can vary immensely depending on the loader's loading technique. Charge weights vary between, for example, a MEC 600 single stage press and a MEC 9000 progressive press. Without a charge weight loading data is not data. It is useless.
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When I was in the Army I was in a plain clothes MI unit. MOS 9666. Our unit, the 701st MID (Military Intelligence Detachment), had the Spy as our logo/mascot. When I left the army in 1971 the unit was closing down so I took the mascot with me. Somewhere over the years during a move it turned up missing. All I have left is one of the key chains we had made up.
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Your interpretation is simply wrong and not how the Fed or the courts intrepret the language. Several states have passed or are considering legislation to require retailers to take cash. A retailer is not a creditor. For example here is the provision being considered by Arizona.
https://www.azleg.gov/press/house/56LEG/1R/230223CHAPLIKHB2555.pdf
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5 minutes ago, sassnetguy50 said:
They don't have to accept cash unless they have already provided the service or goods, causing you to be in debt to them. They must accept cash as a method to settle the debt.
WRONG!
This is the section right after the language I quoted above.
Section 31 U.S.C. 5103, entitled "Legal tender," states: "United States coins and currency [including Federal Reserve notes and circulating notes of Federal Reserve Banks and national banks] are legal tender for all debts, public charges, taxes, and dues." This statute means that all U.S. money as identified above is a valid and legal offer of payment for debts when tendered to a creditor.
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More and more store will not even accept cash. I got into a "discussion" with one retailer and then checked when I got home. This is off the Federal Reserve website. Apparently the policy changed in 2020. Stores do not have to accept cash.
Is it legal for a business in the United States to refuse cash as a form of payment?
There is no federal statute mandating that a private business, a person, or an organization must accept currency or coins as payment for goods or services. Private businesses are free to develop their own policies on whether to accept cash unless there is a state law that says otherwise.
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Should be a standard 5/32" (.156) ball bearing you can get at ACE. If that is too big for your rifle get a 9/64 (.140).
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1 hour ago, Idaho Gunslinger said:
Typically that results in them going off the 2nd time though doesn't it? The first hit finishes seating the primer and the 2nd hit detonates it.
Sometimes is a better word than typically. Sometimes they do sometimes they do not. Sometimes the priming pellet cracks on the first strike and it will never go off after that.
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I had a similar thing happen. Both pair of revolvers I have been using started misfiring. I tried cleaning the guns, stronger mainsprings, voodoo, etc. Could not figure out how four pistols would all start misfiring at the same time. Finally I cleaned my press and checked the priming rod. I don't know what kind of press you have but on mine the rod is adjustable. I raised the rod so it seated the primers about .003" deeper and the problem went away.
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Brand new Cimarron 73. Barrel screwed in too far so they just filed a bigger cut on the top for the extractor. The groove for the tab at the bottom was not at 6 o'clock so the tab banged on the back of the barrel when closing the lever. A good size knot fell out of the stock and left a hole. They just finished over it.
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Email received 9/1/2024 -
"Thank you for your continued trust and support of American Pioneer Powder. Given the current global situation, particularly with events in Russia and China, we've already faced some shortages and delays in raw materials this year. We anticipate that these issues will extend further, potentially leading to longer shipping delays, possible shortages, and price increases in the near future.
To ensure availability of American Pioneer Powder and at the lowest prices, if you are going to need powder anytime within the next 6 months, we recommend placing your order soon. Please feel free to reach out to me directly at 954-415-8229, if you have any questions or need assistance.
Best regards,
Brett"
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Marlin has not existed for over ten years. The name was bought by Remington and when they went bust by Ruger. I would call Ruger and ask if the new barrels are compatible with the old guns.
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11 minutes ago, Cypress Sun said:
There is a video game, Red Dead Redemption. I've talked to quite a few "newbies" that became interested in CAS due to playing the game. Too bad that SASS didn't attempt to capitalize on the 'Red Dead' mania that followed the release of the game...but they didn't even try.
Actually they did. The went to the Red Dead festival or convention or whatever they called it down in Tombstone and had a booth there.
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Have been in various shooting sports my whole life. I started SASS in 95 but did not join until 2000. Was a fanatic for years and was on the Winter Range board for a good many of those years. Now if it is too hot, too cold, it starts to rain, I don't like some Ahole on my posse, etc., I just go home. With increasing age and aches and pains going to matches is no longer a joy it is work.
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Palerider is not a category. It is another made up thing some clubs shoot and the rules are whatever that club says they are. That is why I asked Onery Oaf what he considered a Palerider load.
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Here are some more. They are not rare and most are in decent condition.
https://www.merzantiques.com/product-category/winchester/1873winchester/1873muskets/
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Most were sold to foreign governments and most were manufactured after 1900. Thus, they were obsolete when purchased and a lot were never issued. So they tend to be in pretty good condition. Leroy Mertz has several right now. Here is one that is typical.
https://www.merzantiques.com/product/8713-winchester-model-1873-musket/
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26 minutes ago, ORNERY OAF said:
Is it true, they don't handle heavy loads, like palerider loads? Cause I like em too but dont know alot about them
You need to explain what YOU mean by this. What do YOU consider to be a heavy load and what do YOU consider to be a Palerider load? The Schofield is a top break revolver. Keep that in mind when thinking if it is appropriate for heavy loads.
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All sorts of considerations to your question(s). The design is older and more complicated than a Colt. It functions differently than a Colt. The biggest difference? The S&W bolt is retracted by the trigger so you cannot touch the trigger while cocking it. The Colt bolt is retracted by a cam on the hammer. So you can even slip hammer it. Shootability? Most people find them ackward to hold and the hammer is harder to reach than a Colt which can be a big difference for duelist shooters. So you have a design that is more complex and, therefore, more expensive to produce. And you have a design that sells only a tiny fraction as many guns as the Colt clones. So more expensive to make and selling far fewer copies = higher price. If you want to play you have to pay.
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In need of MEC bushing info
in SASS Wire
Posted
Not to be argumenative and not directing anything at you, you did not say what the bushing is supposed to drop. You just said here is a load you got from Scarlett. If it is supposed to drop the charge the OP was asking about a clear answer would have been "a #18 bushing should drop X grains". We all need to be careful when providing loading data. SASS use to not allow loading data because of typos and people providing untested data. There use to be a member that frequented the wire with the alias of Birdshot that worked for Hodgden. Many times he had to post warnings that suggested data was unsafe. His testing is why SASS does not allow "tapering" shotshells.
"Shotgun shells shall not be sized down (necked) by the use of any die not
manufactured for the specific gauge."
Several years ago several shooters would run their 12 gauge shells into a 20 gauge sizer and squash the end of the 12 gauge down. This was supposed to facilitate loading double barrel shotguns. Birdshot tested the practice and found this raised pressures well above the max allowed for a 12 guage shotgun.
One thing that is a PITA is that MEC numbers do not tell you the hole size. Hornady, RCBS, Spolar etc use the actual bushing ID as the bushing number. I.e., a #456 Hornady bushing is .456 ID. MEC conversion tables are hard to find but here is a chart showing MEC ID sizes just as an FYI for the wire.