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Cemetery

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Posts posted by Cemetery

  1. What do you recommend I get to make the 1861 Navy sing?

     

    I've got a brace of Uberti 1860's, and followed these instructions, even though they're for Pietta, Larsen Pettifogger wrote them up about eight years ago;

     

    http://www.theopenrange.net/forum/index.php?topic=5659.0

     

    There's also the video Bottom Dealing Mike has on his YouTube page discussing smoothing out the hammer to prevent 'cap sucking'......easy alternative to 'cap posts' or other modifications such as what Long Hunter Shooting Supply is offering.

  2. What? That's almost unAmerican. Go get and watch it.

     

    Are you still sitting there? Go get it NOW!!!

    Hey Robert Mitchum is in El Dorado!!!!

     

    You shoulda told me Forty Rod!

     

    1440734911321818_animate.gif

  3. +1 for Northern tool. However they wouldn't hold air for more than a couple weeks. Put Green Slime in 'em and that clogged the valves making re-filling impossible. Discovered the valve was the source of the leak even with a new stem insert. Resolved by using metal caps with a small "O" ring inside---haven't added air in over a year. I got the 16" ones and they roll nice over bumpy terrain.

     

    This is my problem, where did you source your metal caps with the O rings?

  4. Howdy

     

    I own three of them, and I can tell you from experience that they were not 'ahead of their time'. They were simply an alternative design for a cartridge revolver because S&W had all the patents sewn up for Top Breaks. Not so incredibly precise to machine either, as many seem to think.

     

    My hat will be off to any company that can produce them, for they were a truly unique design. But I gotta tell ya, it is quicker to reload a Top Break than it is to reload a Merwin.

     

    A few years ago I was able to get a hold of an original in 44.40 for an affordable price, for what they are, with found money I had.......turns out it had mismatching numbers (whatever, I don't care), and from what I've read, this is most likely assembled in the 1890s from parts left overs (again I don't care)..........

     

    That being said, comparing it to the Colt Peacemaker, and the S&W Schofield, it does seem over engineered for what it is, and it's time. On the surface, Colt seems minimalisc in design, S&W has more bulk, but a quick top break to dump spent shells, and the MH has sliding loading gates, frame twisting for dumping spent shells, all kinds of nook and crannies for fouling to get into......ugh.

     

    Unique design? Hells yeah! .....but seemingly over engineered.

     

    I'm not a firearm historian specialist, but how it all seems to me.

  5. Wasn't Bruce Dern the only guy to shoot John Wayne in the back?

     

    I'm not a John Wayne or the highway fan of his, but after that, I wanted to punch Bruce Dern in the face, even if it was 40 years after the movie!

  6. Hey Lead Ringer- I'll twist Brimstone Bill's post and say gear up next year in time for a "Limited Edition" red and green Christmas bullet Collectors Set! It would be all the rage! :lol:

     

     

     

     

    You'll need some pink ones before October for Breast Cancer month.

     

    Randy

     

    Now these are good ideas!!

  7. Quick question for my fellow Darksiders.......anybody have experience using Poly Coated (Hi-Tek) boolits with real black?

     

    Just recently started reading about these, and wondered how they'd work, I'm thinking you'd still be swabbin' the bore after each stage. Maybe the work good with APP....I dunno.

  8. From what I'm hearing you can use them with real BP without having to use big lube lead anymore? That's gotta be good...

     

     

    First I'm hearing this.....if I have an alternative to big loobs, that would be nice.

  9. Window shopping for guns one day, when I noticed some cowboy guns in the display, man behind the counter noticed the sparkle in my eye, and started to show me all the different ones they owned. Walked out with my first Ruger New Vaquero, on the way out, shop keep told me he was gonna put in an order for some new Rugers, and that he'll see me in a few months when I get my 2nd one. Few months later, went back an purchased a 2nd Ruger, and the same shop keep told me about SASS, and gave me info for a local club.....where I met Johnny Swan, and Tinker Joe, after a few matches, I ended up joining SASS in summer of '06.

     

    Tinker Joe doesn't get out much if at all to shoot anymore.

     

    Still working on bringing Johnny Swan to the darkside.....

  10. My pair of 1860s used to bind up real bad, even during a stage with clean cylinder faces, and fresh loob on the arbor.

     

    Not sure what you use, but I found synthetic grease on the arbor, and a drop or two of Triflow in the cylinder/arbor gap when the gun is reassembled keeps 'em running for five stages without any problem. Maybe this combo might work on your Remmie's.....

  11. I will give this a try .

    Thank you.

     

    To clarify, cause I can't type, I always thought the TOP shell would be staggered forward. I fixed my post.

     

    I watch some tube of you videos of Lassister, and it looks like he has his top shell staggered forward.

  12. Stagger your shells when you drop them in. Bottom shell forward of the bottom shell.

     

    Like this.

     

    87%20loading.jpg

     

    I thought the top shell should be staggered forward.....

     

    .....anyway, I've got 4 months to practice.

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