Widder, SASS #59054
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Posts posted by Widder, SASS #59054
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5 hours ago, Eyesa Horg said:
Is this just a stock 10/22 hammer spring?? Or does it need to be cut?
Thanks Widder
Excellent question, my good friend Eyesa.
Normally, 19 out of 20, work 'as is' from the Ruger factory.
The ONLY thing I have encountered, with ANY aftermarket spring, is when Marlin has OFF CUT the notch that holds the spring retainer CLIP.
If the notch is cut a little closer to the hammer, the retainer CLIP has to compress the spring a little more in order to put the CLIP back in.
When this happens, some springs can 'crunch' when cocking the hammer..... and actually can hinder the hammer from going into
full cock. This situation requires cutting a coil or two off the spring.
If the Marlin factory cuts the retainer clip notch further back, even a few .000's, a washer or two might be needed to help with
consistent primer ignition. Actually, I've never known the 10/22 spring to need any washers, BUT.....I have had to cut a coil (1 coil)
from the 10/22 spring in order to fully cock the hammer without CRUNCHING the spring during its compression mode.
Hope this answer your question and I hope I explained it clearly.
..........Widder
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Dang Cuz Blackwater........ its no wonder some of us down here in E.Tennessee are going deaf.
..........Widder
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3 hours ago, SHOOTIN FOX said:
If it has been a while since you cleaned the rifle, check and clean the firing pin and the hole through the bolt. Old oil can gum it up and cause light strikes.
Shooting Fox make a good suggestion.
StopSign: you mentioned that you have a 1-piece firing pin. Here is a little test to see if your firing pin is sticking.
MAKE SURE THE RIFLE IS EMPTY. Now, with your action closed, manually cock your hammer. With the hammer cocked
and your action closed, point your rifle up and then down. If your firing pin is able to fall back a little when the barrel is upwards and
then recess back into the bolt when the rifle is pointing down, your firing pin probably ain't sticking.. But if it won't freely
'move in and out', you need to remove it and clean up your bolt and firing pin.
If you take out your firing pin, make sure it is back in the bolt in its proper position BEFORE you drive those roll pins back into the bolt.
If that FP ain't aligned correctly, those roll pins can put a nasty burr on it when you push them back in.
..........Widder
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I have......and I shoot a 97.
..........Widder
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I might add.....check to ensure your primers are FULLY seated.
If they are FLUSH, that will give you inconsistent ignition. Primers should sit a little lower in the
primer pocket and you can tell sometimes by looking at them..... but normally, you can feel with
your fingers.
..........Widder
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I don't know if Ruger will sell to individuals, but they will sell to an FFL.
That's where I got mine when I was working on Marlins.
Another possible choice is to check with Brownells.
Midwest gun works might also have them.
..........Widder
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I use a Ruger 10/22 spring in all my 1894 Marlins..... as do a few of my friends.
We get 100% reliability.
The Ruger 10/22 compresses a little easier but has good power when it expands to normal length.
As mentioned above, you can add a washer at the front end of your spring (or even 2 or 3) and these help
somewhat. But, if your spring is too weak, get a new spring.
..........Widder
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QUESTION.....
The news reports 'No Survivors'. Are they telling us that ALL the employees at that facility have died?
Were all the employees at work at that time?
..........Widder
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Just a guess, but if some 'person or group' purposely caused this, they'll do something to take credit, usually send a message
to the FBI or ATF, etc..... and claim responsibility.
My thinking is that something went wrong inside and when someone said..."OOPS"..... it was heard 20 miles away.
Tragic for sure. God bless the families and children. And bless those involved in its investigation.
..........Widder
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My choices would be:
Jimmy Spur
Lassiter
Longhunter
Three Cut
Shotgun Boogie
Their general reputations are top notch and I have handled guns by each of them.
..........Widder
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I talked to OOOOPS this morning and he said he would call you soon.....soon as you win the Big Lotto.
..........Widder
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WHO?
..........Widder
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I figured some of the LEO's might shine some knowledge on this topic.
When Hollywood wants to depict a suicide, they show the victim with the gun still in their hand and the trigger finger still in
the trigger guard.
I always thought that the pistol would probably fly out of the hand of a real suicide victim and land a few feet away.
Would the hand still hold onto the pistol/revolver in a real suicide event?
..........Widder
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4 minutes ago, Frederick Jackson Turner said:
Yes, please! Heck; I'll hold the camera!
Cheers,
FJT
I still have FOND memories shooting with you at GOA, along with Lassiter.
I had more energy to travel back then. Sure hope you are doing well.
..........Widder
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I'm thinking about doing a video/tutorial on spring tensions in the Marlin.
There are 3 particular 'coil' springs in the Marlin that when properly tuned, enhance the overall feeling and
function of the Marlin rifle EVEN if the rifle itself has not been modified.
Hopefully, I can get that done soon.
Thanks
..........Widder
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2 hours ago, Chancy Shot, SASS #67163 said:
replaced the Extractor, tuned it for the rifle, and all is well again. All is well that ends well.
..........Widder
Could you add a little detail about tuning the extractor, please
Chancy
Howdy Clancy. Good question.
Most, if not all, factory extractors are stiff.....real stiff. That stiffness often causes 'bumping' feelings when the cartridge
is trying to sit on the bolt face and the extractor 'snapping' over the rim as it enters the chamber.
'Tuning' an Extractor is a result of lightning the spring tension AND slightly changing the angle of the extractor head
to minimize that 'snapping' sensation and in most cases.....totally eliminate any feeling of the cartridge moving onto the
bolt face and into the chamber.
On Widdermatics, basically during the cycling of your cartridge, the shooter really can't tell if a round is chambered or not
because the 'Angle-Slant' feed system is really smooth. And part of that smoothness is due to a 'Tuned' extractor for that
rifle.
Remember, the hole on the bolt face that the extractor sits in, is not always drilled in the same position from the factory.
And an Extractors position can either enhance or hinder smooth.....effortless feeding.
I hope this answers your question.
Have a blessed day.
..........Widder
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If you're only gonna use it for Cowboy (SASS) competition, ya gotta consider a Uberti or Marlin.
If you're gonna load up some hot stuff and hunt deer and bear, ya better stick with Marlin, the 1892, or the Henry 'steel' frame.
(just my opinion).
There are numerous GREAT gunsmiths that can slick up and short stroke the Uberti.
There are just a couple of GREAT gunsmiths that I would consider 'tuning' up the Marlin.
If you want a really fine short stroked Marlin, ya gotta stand in line for a 'Cowboy Carty' Marlin.
If you want a really fine, NON-short stroked, Marlin, the line is a little shorter to get a 'Widdermatic' from SLATER, at 'Slaters In-House Guns'.
Longhunter use to be at the top of my list, but he retired..... as did myself.
The .45 Colt is a great setup in the Marlin 1894, which I own 2 of them.
But I mostly shoot the hotter fodder in mine.
ROOSTER mentioned above to ...'stay away from the jamomatic Marlin'.
Well, I hope his problem is soon fixed and he can become another 'HMO'..... Happy Marlin Owner.
God Bless,
..........Widder
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Howdy Waimea.
I will email Deadhead and ask him to make you 'Outlaw JEDI'.
If TN Williams can be a 'Duelist Pimp', surely you can be an Outlaw JEDI.
..........Widder
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The JEDI Council, and on behalf of all the JEDI's, want to say....THANK YOU, to Deadhead for all he does on the JEDI website.
Deadhead keeps up with all the names and numbers..... and even pictures when he can get them.
He is also constantly changing special titles to JEDI's as warranted by some of the types of shooting they do, i.e......soot lord, dark lord, pale rider, etc.......
He runs a darn good website: shootingbums.org
Thanks again, Pard, from ALL of us!
..........Widder
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All our guns are subject to wear and breakage of any part.
Just last week, a gunsmith friend welded up a 'chipped' area on a Marlin lever.
I reshaped it, ensured the effected area worked correctly, and gave it back to the owner.
No LESS than 50 rounds later in last weekends match, that same Marlin failed to eject an empty.
And after test firing another 50 rounds later, 2 of the empties failed to EJECT. The other brass
barely ejected.
I got the rifle and checked it out. The TIP of the EXTRACTOR has sheared off. It was only about a 32nd or less, but enough
to prevent the case from holding onto the bolt face secure enough to give 'consistent' ejections.
I replaced the Extractor, tuned it for the rifle, and all is well again. All is well that ends well.
..........Widder
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Great.
I was just wanting to share the cause of that deep cut in the upper portion of your timing ramp.
Best regards
..........Widder
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5 hours ago, Nostrum Damus SASS #110702 said:
In other words, is it bad enough to be causing what seems like the dreaded Marlin jam?
First of all, I'm glad JR Joe is able to help you out in a timely manner. Rumor has it that he does great work and a great feller to
deal with.....and talk to.
As for your picture of the carrier, my guess is that your timing ramp has worn a little too much on the LOWER portion, which
can cause the Marlin Jam. The connection between the carrier ramp and 'snail cam' on the lever determines the initial timing
(downward stroke of the lever) that allows a round to come onto the carrier and then the front of the carrier STOPS the next round
in the portal.
That deep cut on the upper edge of the carrier ramp is caused by the sharp edge at the end of the 'snail cam' oval.
That sharp edge of the snail cam oval stops at that position and then releases when you start closing the lever.
That particular function creates a deep 'scratch' over time to creat that cut.
You can minimize that 'cut' by slightly (SLIGHTLY) rounding that edge.....JUST EDGE, of the snail cam on the lever.
..........Widder
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Besides those helpful info above, I would also try Rim Rock bullets.
..........Widder
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A friend of mine who loves Colts, actually really likes the Springfield models.
And from my experience and the price range you are wanting..... SPRINGFIELD.
As for other, more refined 1911's under 1K, ya gotta check out some of the BUL's (I have one), Magnum Research (mine is made by BUL),
the new SAVAGE 1911 (I have a pair and love em both) and last but not least..... Rock Island Armory (I have one of those)
Also under 1K is my Kimber 'Long Slide'..
If ya want to add a few $$$ to your purchase, the Springfield 'EMISSARY' has been a top notch 1911 for me.
..........Widder
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check it for poison
in SASS Wire Saloon
Posted
I hope her wedding night wasn't that instructional. 😮
..........Widder