Three Foot Johnson
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Posts posted by Three Foot Johnson
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Fun to horse around with, but an 18"er with a butt stock holds more and is easier to shoot & control.
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9 hours ago, Hardpan Curmudgeon SASS #8967 said:
With yours, I'm gonna guess... an eight by three?
Whatever it is, it's a dandy mount!
"It depends". The P&Y and B&C record books say, "To be counted a point, the projection must be at least one inch long, with the length exceeding width at one inch or more of length." That would make him at least 11x5.
My dad harvested that one probably back in the late 40's or early 50's near the small town of York, about nine miles north of here. Following a drunken party at their cabin/home the night before, he picked up his Winchester and planned to walk up a draw behind the house and sleep off his hangover on a sunny hillside. Somewhere up that canyon, this big ol' boy jumped up out of his bed thirty yards away, and he said he just brought that ol' M94 up to hip level and pulled the trigger. The .30-30 bullet went through the neck and down he went... then he had this stinkin' ol' mule deer to take care of instead napping the day away in the sun.
About 40 years ago, I swiped the horns off the garage wall, took 'em to a taxidermist, and gave him the mount for Father's Day. The taxidermist pointed out where the skull had been badly broken some time in the past, and said that's why his horns grew that way.
Back in the 70's, a cousin killed one in the same general area, a typical 4x4, with a spread of just under 36" - this one is a little under 26" extreme spread.
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6 hours ago, Hardpan Curmudgeon SASS #8967 said:
And by the way, for any who may not know, we practice "Western Count" when describing antlers: the points on only one side are counted. Thus, a buck with eight points total is a "four-pointer." Our hunters are a modest bunch.
Which side? His right side has 11+.
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14 hours ago, Slowpoke Joe said:
What is the make and model of the double barrel? Thanks,
SPJ
Says Baikal IZH-43E on the bottom of the action (MP-220) - the E means it originally had ejectors, as evidenced by the split extractor.
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I sprung for one 'bout five years ago from CMP - Springfield, service grade, May 1945, 1+/1+, $750. Cute little things.
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Two years ago, I bought 2000 pounds of lead from a scrap yard for fifty cents a pound - the problem is most of it's in big chunks, some of them easily 200 pounds. Their testing showed it to be 97.83% lead and 1.98% antimony, which should be relatively soft. As such, I water quench my bullets as I cast them, and my old LBT lead hardness tester says they're about 13-14 BHN. I must have tested it without a water drop, but I don't have it in my notes. A chart I found online says a 98% PB/2% SB mix should be around 10.4 without quenching, so the quench is probably unnecessary. Before this, I had a larger supply of even harder stuff, but it's pretty much exhausted after twenty years. I've never noticed a whit of difference at the very short distances we shoot at, nor any leading with any of it.
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I get decent deals now and then, but it only takes two people to put something over the top. For instance, I put a nearly new Kel Tec P-32 here on the SASS classifieds six months ago for $300, shipped, with a bunch of brass, and no bites. I listed it on Gunbroker three weeks ago with a starting bid of $280, a couple bidders got in a bidding war, and it sold for $490, shipped, w/o the brass.
The winning bidder bid FIFTEEN times.
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I haven't seen Unique in a retail store in at least three years. The best deal I see in stock online at the moment is $58.75/lb, delivered.
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"Move to alleyway with shotgun and engage the shotgun targets and the flier. A hit on the flier is a 5 second bonus, a miss can be made up with a round down range.*
That's pretty clear - it was in the air, hence still a "flier" and not a dead target on the ground, and he plainly hit it. Five second bonus, next shooter. Any other shotgun target can be re-engaged, unless the stage instructions state otherwise, why would an aerial be any different?
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Cached page says it was $50 + shipping - pics have apparently been deleted.
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5 hours ago, Gungadin said:
Are they useful?
Guess I'd read they were not very helpful, haven't tried one.
No surprise they're discontinued, they didn't work very well. It's quicker to drop primers onto the seating ram one by one. I removed both of mine and tossed them into a parts box somewhere.
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Different brands of black powder are going to vary widely in their volumetric weights. This is 9 grains by weight of three different black powders in 9mm cases, with Swiss on the right. The cavalry of old used between 28 and 40 grains in .45 Colt, depending, but that number is pretty meaningless without knowing the volume to weight ratio of the powder used. Swiss is dense, and if you weigh out 35 grains, there won't be enough volume to fill the case up to the base of the bullet.
Figure out where the base of the seated bullet is going to be, and fill to that level, "plus a little extra" so it's slightly compressed for uniform ignition - about 1/32 to 1/16". Set your measure to that volume, and load away. If you use an .030 or .060" over powder wad, greased felt wads, or filler, adjust the volume of the powder column accordingly.
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Supposedly, a police officer was disarmed by a bad guy by grabbing his gun, pulling the top latch up, and flipping it open. S&W said, "We'll fix that by putting a side latch on it too". In just a few short years, the company realized the top latch was unnecessarily redundant and did away with the top latch design.
The side latch, does NOT unlock the top latch - both of them lock independently and have to be manipulated simultaneously. About impossible for the bad guy, and also pretty clumsy for the cop.
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There's a box of ammo on Gunbroker, 42 loaded rounds and 8 empties, for $194, shipped. The stuff hasn't been made in awhile and probably won't be for at least a few years still. I haven't seen .25-20 component brass from ANYBODY in probably at least fifteen years, but it can be made easily enough from .32-20 or .218 Bee, also a unicorn. RMC will make 'em for you for $5.20 each, plus $20 shipping.
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Dang, I don't have either of those.
I've got a Glock and Walther CO2 pistols, if that would be OK.
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A couple of these maybe...
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The base Henry H001 can be had for three fiftyish, and this time of year the big retailers - Sportsman's Warehouse, Scheels, Cabela's, etc., are going to be running Black Friday sales on them, as well as the bigger online outlets. I wouldn't be surprised to see someone offer them for $299 as part of a Black Friday promotion. PSA has them for $349 right now, $18 shipping.
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I bought one a couple years ago, and figured the production date would make it ineligible for side matches, but PW said the basic design predates 1900, so it's GTG.
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The Tisas is still only $299.99/$18 shipping.
They must have bought a truckload of 'em.
https://palmettostatearmory.com/sds-imports-45-acp-semi-automatic-pistol-blk-1911a1.html
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12 minutes ago, Dakota Rambler said:
Throw in some knockdowns with single shot shotgun, or a shot and a follow up shot with a muzzle loader. Maybe a blunderbus grand finale!
I'm in...
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Looks like battery powered little cars is exactly what they're describing.
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On 11/5/2023 at 1:11 PM, Leroy Luck said:
Is 10.5 grains enough powder?
I’m running 12 grains of promo (red dot) with everything else you’ve got and it gives the perfect crimp and everything. 7/8oz shot.
Several guys I shoot with are loading 13-14 grains red dot/promo with the same components and get good results.
There was a family here, dad, mom, and two boys, who used 9.0 Red Dot for many years - you could actually see the shot ball going downrange.
Maybe he finally got a wad stuck, because he eventually bumped it up to 10.0 grains. I've settled on 12.0 grains Red Dot with 7/8 oz shot and a Windjammer wad. If the crimp collapses in due to the shot column not being high enough, I use a piece of plastic packing peanut on top. 
On 11/9/2023 at 7:02 AM, Rooster Ron Wayne said:10.5 gr Unique powder
Clay buster gray wads
7/8 Oz #8
Good knockdown & light recoil .
10.5 grains of Unique? That's not a typo?
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My daughter shot .22's her first year, then moved up to .38 Model P Jr's combined with her Henry .22 the next spring. She was kind of intimidated by how much larger those .38's were than the .22's
. To ease her into it, I loaded her pistol ammo with a .360" 70 grain round ball from a Lee mold seated flush+ in the case for the first couple of matches. I doubt it met power factor, but the club allowed it, and the mixed centerfire pistol/.22 rifle combo, and after a couple matches, when she was comfortable with those huge .38 cases , I went to 105's and 125's so they'd meet PF and and she could use a centerfire rifle too. To meet PF with a 70 grain bullet, velocity would have to be about 860 fps. I used up some left over 90 grain .380 bullets in .38 pistol loads once - I suppose they could be roll crimped into the lead enough to work in a rifle without collapsing, or maybe use a Lee FCD - velocity has to be around 670 fps to meet PF. A little undersized at .355", but it didn't present a problem shooting barn doors at the length of a parking spot.
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Starting fluid
in SASS Wire Saloon
Posted
It still needs air, so anything sprayed into the air intake will eventually get to the combustion chamber, BUT... why would you ever use starting fluid on an injected engine? If the injectors are working, fuel is getting into the combustion chamber and starting fluid won't accomplish anything more. If the injectors aren't working, the fluid won't accomplish anything... unless someone rides on top of the engine and keeps spraying the stuff into the intake until you get to where you're going. Seems I read somewhere that starting fluid in injected gas engines with turbos and intercoolers is a bad combination...?