Garrison Joe, SASS #60708
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Posts posted by Garrison Joe, SASS #60708
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Yes, it is a known problem that some lots of at least Winchester 209 and Federal 209A shotshell primers have deep set primers inside the battery cup of the primer assembly. And then (mostly) double barrel shotguns have problems hitting the primer cup hard enough with the firing pins. I've had both Win 209s and Fed 209As fail to get good hits in my TTN hammered double gun (well known for not having a lot of FP protrusion)
Here's a page that shows most of the parts of shotshell primers, with labels. The dark gray section around the primer is the "battery cup". It's made of steel (magnetic) even though it may be plated with copper or tin or nickel.
http://claybuster100.tripod.com/claybuster100sshotshellreloadingpage/id13.html
The manufacturing problem is that the primer cup gets pushed too deep into the battery cup. So the surface of the primer cup is below the rim of the battery cup by a few thousandths. I've had some Federals that have been as low as 0.013" below the rim! Firing pins sometimes don't have that much protrusion, especially on doubles.
So, solutions:
1. Check that tips of firing pins are not damaged or peened and that protrusion is good - this condition causes LOTS of failures to happen from a specific gun, so it's NOT likely for your two SKB guns that both very occasionally have a FTF. That speaks more to ammo problems. So, keep reading.
2. INSPECT for deeply seated primers in the battery cups. If the dome of the primer cup is not level with the rim of the battery cup of the primer, don't load it. If you have loaded it already, don't use that ammo in doubles!
3. Switch to better made primers. I'm now exclusively using Cheddite 209 primers since the primer cup is flat, always (knock wood) made flush with the outer battery cup, and are cheaper as well.
4. Alter the gun or firing pins to give a deeper strike to the primer. With SxS doubles, this can cause the primer to swell back around the tip of the firing pin and lock the gun shut!! Or at least drag against the primer causing gun to be hard to open. So, this "solution" is not often the right thing to do, especially with SxS guns.
Good luck, GJ
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Most shooters DON'T do this particular modification on their own. They let one of our good gunsmiths do it. It usually involves changing the cocking points for both hammers to be a little more in the open position, so the gun hangs open after cocking instead of the cocking springs pushing the gun slightly closed. This sometimes also means the hinge has to be "retimed" to prevent the gun from tearing up the hinge and forearm hangers. It's not just a drop-in part or one single simple "grind this spot right here" operation.
Send the gun off to
Goatneck Clem (above)
Johnny Meadows
Jared at Long Hunter Supply
or one of several other fellers who do good SxS work.
It will be worth it.
Good luck, GJ
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I just slide the cardboard cover back to expose the number of primers needed, then put cover of primer flip tray over and turn over. Poof all primers are on the cover primer end up.
Yep! No need to leave a credit card stuck in a primer tray, either, and not remember that until you get to the LGS!
Good luck, GJ
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Telling folks the belt size would probably enhance your possibilities for a sale....often it's stamped on inside of belt near buckle.
Good luck, GJ
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(I) quit using toilet tissue, went to a card wad atop the powder and corn meal to take up the rest of the volume.
Probably unnecessary but a little knowledge is a dangerous thing and I know just enough to get in trouble.
Well, you can get away with that practice in a straight-walled rifle case like 45-70. Doing that in 38-55 or other more pronounced-shoulder cartridge can quickly ring the chamber or cause high pressures (trying to blow a cereal plug through the constriction and down the barrel in addition to the bullet itself).
Be aware that none of the powder manufacturers recommend an over-powder card or ANY type of filler or powder positioning puffs any more with smokeless powders! Too many guns damaged.
If an unwadded charge of Unique doesn't work well, then you are MUCH better off going to a larger volume charge of a more suitable powder. TrailBoss or 5744 or 4198 all will work well with cast bullets, and give you a 50% case fill too.
Good luck, GJ
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Still quite satisfied with Hornady One Shot for cowboy loading. For rifle cases, good old case lube on an ink pad.
Good luck, GJ
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The string is 10 shots even if it's split,
WRONG! Not applicable when a different gun type is what causes the split. It is true when movement to a new position causes the "split" - but then, that is not a split by the definition below, either.
Here's the applicable definition:
A shooting string is defined as shots from one type of firearm prior to the next type of firearm engaged.Shooter's Handbook, Page 23
When shooter goes to any other gun but another revolver, the first revolver string ends!
Either holster by stage convention, or override the need to holster with instructions in the stage description.
It's really pretty simple to do EITHER and avoid arguments at the match.
Good luck, GJ
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Is a pistol string all rounds from both pistols or does the inclusion of other guns between the pistol create two separate pistol strings?
Are two pieces of string separated by a wall one string or two? Sure it's two strings.
Write it into the stage if you want to override standard stage conventions and NOT require immediate re-holstering of revolver after the first five shots for anyone but GF style.
Or make it real simple and REQUIRE restaging revolvers back on the table! Collect them after the stage is done.
Good luck, GJ
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A small but fairly aggressive grit carborundum stone would be my first choice - a sliver that can be hand-worked back and forth with careful strokes. Could even be roughed in with a small diamond coated bit in an angle-head die grinder, then finished to square corners with the stone.
Pulling the barrel would make it so much easier, however. Then you just run an end-mill down the slot.
EDM machining would be the high-end, very accurate approach. If you had a buddy in high-tech metal shop.
Good luck, GJ
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Leather stays loose rolled in my plastic "packer" boxes with the rest of the gear needed for Cowboy or Wild Bunch. Labeled Box for each so I don't take the right box to the wrong match. All the stuff I need makes it to a match - nothing left hanging on the wall 30 or 300 miles away from the match.
But then again, perhaps your rememberer is sharper than mine.
Good luck, GJ
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To reinforce what DS stated, because you are getting into a gray area with your stage where the rules could get argued either way, your stae description had better make it clear which way you are going to allow shooters to run the guns.
It sounds like your design intent here is to split the pistols with shotgun following each of 5 revolver shots. A GF can accomplish that either by double duelist (and either by drawing one gun at a time, or drawing two and shooting only one, staging, and picking up one or both but only firing the second pistol duelist). So, state the SEQUENCE of guns clearly. In this case, yes, you would have two separate revolver strings and two separate shotgun strings. Meaning the first pistol should be returned to leather for non GF, UNLESS your stage instructions give the shooter permission to stage the revolver(s) between strings.
If you don't care if a shooter mixes the sequence of guns and only want a revolver to start and rifle not last, state it that way. And you will get folks who shoot all 10 revolver shots first. And some shooting all 10 rifle shots first. More of a shooter's choice stage.
All will depend upon how you write the stage to make it clear.
Good luck, GJ
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They weight 158 gr.
I'd think they were cores for making jacketed bullets but they are already formed into a shape and lubed.
Ummm, probably not cores. Cores usually don't get lubed and knurled, as far as I understand bullet swaging processes.
Perhaps some experiment where standard .38 bullets were run through a sizer die for some reason?
In any case, melt 'em.
Good luck, GJ
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PPU ammo is very nice quality. And no longer made under communist management. And makes reasonable empty brass to reload.
It is, however, not made in USA.
Good luck, GJ
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Pretty long to be pistol slugs. Do those weigh 158 grains, or more?
Sounds like feedstock for the melting pot. They will be soft lead, most likely.
Good luck, GJ
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No, a full case of even FFFg black will NOT blow up a SAA. Will be well under the SAAMI pressure standards for .44 WCF cartridge, which are 13,000 Copper Units of Pressure (11,000 PSI).
Original .44-40 loads by Winchester were loaded with 40 grains of FFg powder, according to rounds that have been broken down for inspection, and that amount of powder will not fit in modern cases.
Good luck, GJ
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SOMEONE needs to check the timing on the gun, and the condition of the cartridge support tab on the bolt face! Second, the slot in the chamber face into which the extractor extends when bolt is in battery. The common "breakage" comes from the tip of the extractor slamming into either the case rim or an obstruction. It's hard to wear out a .45 Colt extractor in just a few months.
But, yeah, for us to tell you more, we need to know much more - about the gun, about any damage to the broken extractors, what vendor of extractor he's using, how fast and smooth he runs the gun!
Good luck, GJ
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Only have had 1 buy where I had to spend a couple of months running the feller to ground to convince him to send the gun to me. He was a pard on the way out of the game, and I guess it didn't matter much to him what his reputation would be. Probably twenty other transactions with you pards, and every one has been from good to wonderful.
Thanks to you all, and keep up the good work. It's the Cowboy Way.
WE ARE NOT POST_TRUTH AGE HERE! GJ
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Don't get a cap stuck in the works!
Best wishes for quick and easy recovery, Dawg.
Good luck, GJ
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Tree Bone Carving in NM is my first thought.
He's not far from the NRA Whittington Center.
Do a search on the web. He's easy to find.
MG
He's relocated recently to the PNW, if I recall.
good luck, GJ
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I cast my own, so I would need a mould.Accurate Molds makes several designs that would work well in C45S. In fact, they make a mold that I designed and use.
http://www.accuratemolds.com/catalog.php
See page 11. 45-150S, 45-160S are good candidates. My design is the 45-175B - accurate in my revolvers. Tom at Accurate will cut the mold to drop .454" or even slightly larger if you want. Since he cuts every mold on order.
PMing you my favorite load with 175 grain slug.
Several dies can be mixed and matched to load C45Sp. It is easiest with a full 45 Auto Rim die set - the roll crimp die will be included with that set standard. But this sizes the case down smaller than a .45 Colt die does, The "trick" way to size is use a .45 Colt, and size only far enough down from the mouth to give you tension as you seat the slug. Sizing farther than where the base of the slug sits is just overworking the brass.
Good luck GJ
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Certainly no inside reaming is needed to shoot in revolvers. And I can't see where it would be needed in rifle either, as the .45 Colt chamber dimensions are VERY large.
Chop saw and a jig to get close - then a case trimmer to get right on (0.898"). And a mouth deburring tool to take of the burrs!
We'll probably use 200-230 gr .454" bullets with Red Dot or 700x.MUCH less recoil loading a 160 to 175 grain bullet, which is now fairly easy to find! I've used both of those powders. Crimp tightly.
Good luck, GJ
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Griff - yeah, that is a REAL fat nosed slug. And poly coating it just makes it a couple thousandths fatter.
There is a reamer that will long-taper the leade in 1911 barrels to help you if you really want to shoot that slug.
But otherwise, get a smaller nose on the slug. Accurate Molds has a couple of truncated cone mold designs that are really nice in the .45 auto.
I shoot the 45-200E a lot. And when I want a 230 grain slug, the 45-230E,
good luck, GJ
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Same discussion (just about) from a week ago: http://www.sassnet.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=258793&hl=laser
Have Drifter (Old West Laser Graphics) or some other laser expert cut you some standard checkering on the forearm with their laser setup. Much faster and almost always quite a bit cheaper than true cut checkering. But just as effective at keeping your hand from slipping. If his prices are about the same as last work I got done, expect about $75.
http://oldwestlasergraphic.com/
http://oldwestlasergraphic.com/Checkering.html
Also:
Taz - http://www.shootingbums.org/klassiclaserworks/. He'll be at Winter Range!
Good luck, GJ
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Bucks Beavers Flux
in SASS Wire
Posted · Edited by Garrison Joe, SASS #60708
Nope, the usual suspects for Casting accessories no longer list it. If I remember right, Midway was where I got the can, ten years ago, that I hardly used because I found it was a very nasty sticky messy flux that did not do a good job. I would suggest that it is no longer being sold because it was never that good in the first place.
I recommend one or more of the following VERY CHEAP fluxes:
1. Wood chips and shavings. My planer makes lots of pine chips quickly from old 2x4's
2. Paraffin wax or better yet, beeswax candle shavings.
3. 2 cycle motor (fuel-mix) oil. Some of the best stuff for bringing dross and dirt up out of a melting pot.
4. 20 MuleTeam Borax. Makes a little bit of a sticky flux if the melt is too hot, and will soak up atmospheric water, so you have to stir it in carefully.
Yes, all of them (except borax) will smoke. A propane torch held next to the pot will let you burn off almost all the smoke.
I've used Marvelux, available from Midway and Brownells, but I find it hardly any better than Buck Beavers, and it tended to accelerate rust on my casting tools.
Good luck, GJ