Garrison Joe, SASS #60708
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Posts posted by Garrison Joe, SASS #60708
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My guess on this head cover ("brass") blowout is due to a part of the extractor body having been completely removed, leaving a gap right where the tears occur. Some Baikal "work" has been done in the past that clipped off the upper extractor ears without pinning the cut-off ears to the barrel breech to hold pressure when the gun fires. I mention Baikals specifically because they have an hour-glass shape on the extractors that wrap almost 180 degrees around the shells, and smith's think that will get in the way of fast easy extraction, so they "dehorn" the top section of the extractor - leaving an "unsupported chamber". Other shotguns may have similar extractor designs.
Take a picture of the extractors as they sit down in the barrel breech (before they lift to extract)!
Yikes! GJ
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Abilene - Correct! I was thinking of the other infamous gun from China, the 97 clone. Parts for those dried up real quick after IAC got their last container, as well.
All this should remind folks that most of the smaller-market imported guns are subject to non-existent parts availability for many different reasons, including an embargo (Russia, China) or a financial crunch, a change of business direction, or just "bureaucracy." If you buy a gun that is NOT a close clone of what was a widely made US gun, then you should probably get 2 or 3 and source your own parts from the safe when you need them. I've already had to snag a butt stock for my old TTN from my new TTN. Now I have to get back to trying to repair the head of that old stock where it rotted from previous oil soaked storage for years (before the receiver of the 1998 vintage TTN gives out)..
And, I patched in some beech to a short Baikal gunstock just like you have done. Also, THAT one got covered with a leather butt cover, for appearances sake.
good luck, GJ
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All these comments should show you by now that a new replacement butt stock is hard to find. IAC does not import these guns now, Norinco/subcontractor has not made any since about 2011. About the only possibility for a new stock would be sending off your short butt stock to a wood worker who can duplicate the stock while adding back the pull length you need. That is common work in the gun stock business, but it's pricey - probably at least $600 for plain straight-grained walnut. And some hand work will be needed most likely to fit the duplicated stock exactly to the action and finish the surface. Unless you find a "junk" gun that still has a decent butt stock you can swap onto your gun.
good luck, GJ
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Win 244 - yes for pistol cartridges.
No for light 12 gauge cowboy shotshells - too slow IMHO. Maybe for a full-speed shotshell for clay targets or upland birds.
good luck, GJ
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On 11/24/2024 at 3:59 PM, Badlands Bob #61228 said:
I still have to use the Dillon system when loading 5.56 because the RCBS only works on straight wall cartridges.
Yeah, that is just one of several reasons that I load rifle cartridges (bottlenecked and straight-wall dinosaurs) on a turret press, with charging using a powder measure dispensing onto a scale pan for weighing each charge.
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OK, I found I did not really know about the Dillon powder check die. I assumed the reference was to the powder hopper sensor. So, the comments below only apply to the Dillon powder hopper sensor.
Remember that a powder
checklevel sensor only catches the absence of powder in the hopper. Any problems that prevent dispensing the powder, including fubar'ing the reload process, powder clumps, foreign matter in the case, partial drops, etc, etc WILL NOT be caught by powder checkers, but WILL BE caught by the powder presence in CASE dies like the RCBS lock-out. From years of loading experience, I have drained all the powder out on my progressive press during a loading session - zero times. All powder charging or obstruction in case problems discovered were caught by RCBS lockout dies.I too would be very concerned that just an audible signal instead of locking the cycle like the RCBS die does would be less useful.
good luck, GJ
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Another RCBS lockout die fan. All my Dillon 550s carry one (yes, that means I seat and crimp in a single die). I get a lock about once per 200 rounds loaded; some are false lockouts and that is OK with me.
good luck, GJ
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Titegroup is about the most available powder right now for doing light loads in most any cowboy cartridge, and it will work fine in .32-20. It is also sold with the name High Gun (exactly the same powder, just another "marketing name" added by Hodgdon).
If you have some on hand, Bullseye would work fine, too. Have not seen it very available now, though.
good luck, GJ
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Yep, my poor experience came with a cart bought in 2008. Wire wheels, busted brakes, poor fabric design.
Replaced in 2010 (IIRC) with another, and that one is still going fairly strong.
My comments
On 11/10/2024 at 3:13 PM, Garrison Joe, SASS #60708 said:older models are just about impossible to get wheels for. Weak early designs (like the spoke wheels which did not have spoke-socket-nuts) and China-sourced product has resulted in their carts being expensive use-for-a-while-and-discard equipment.
were directed at the original design, and that seemed to be what the OP had.
I'm glad they have made improvements through the years. Glad too that they now have a field rep who gets out amongst the end users, too!
good luck, GJ
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2 hours ago, John Kloehr said:
As to volume, my thought is once set up, I would like to produce 300 to 500 rounds of any particular flavor.
Volume means how many a month or year do you plan to shoot. Once you load 500 say, you are not done. You have just begun. If you do a match a month, and practice a little once a month, that is maybe 20 rounds for match and 40 rounds for practice. Or 60 rounds a month, which is 720 rounds a year. That volume you can easily do with a single stage press.
I shoot at least 700 rounds a month of cowboy and 700 rounds of Wild Bunch, more in good weather. For me, a Dillon 550 press is just about right. And extra die plates are available for that press, so to change to a different round, it can be as simple as swapping the die plate, the shell plate and maybe the primer feeder/seater. 30 minutes at the most.
Getting advice from an experienced reloader is about the best way to learn this hobby. If they already know how to load for cowboy matches, it's a genuine gift if he will work with you to learn how to load 'light"!
After you load for a couple of months you will start to understand what equipment will work for you. I'd not buy a LOT of stuff until you get that experience under your belt. You may get a recommendation here for every reloading machine ever made. Most will work for you, but costs can range from a few hundred to a couple-three thousand. And production rates run a wide gamut. Learn, then buy once and wisely.
good luck, GJ
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15 minutes ago, John Kloehr said:
split between Dillon and Lee (and maybe others) for a press,
Not even close as to quality and usability and resale value. You sound like you are buying on names you have heard someone mention rather than considering what your real needs are. (I can not imagine what the motivation would be that someone would be "split" between a Dillon progressive and any Lee loader. Sorry, just little comparison.)
The volume of your shooting will make much more difference in a press choice than the wide range of chamberings you are considering. Larger volumes of shooting and small amount of free time means you might really benefit from a Dillon progressive or a Hornady Ammo Plant. Either will be pricey and take some learning time. A simple used RCBS or Lyman single stage press is a great learning tool, though, and the dies you might buy will mostly move up to better productions rates pretty well.
good luck, GJ
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1 minute ago, John Kloehr said:
Except for the press, I have almost everything needed
So get a used single-stage press for $30-50 and start on it. Will pay itself off in 2 boxes of .44-40. GJ
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No, contact the factory. They have made several wheel changes during the years, and older models are just about impossible to get wheels for. Weak early designs (like the spoke wheels which did not have spoke-socket-nuts) and China-sourced product has resulted in their carts being expensive use-for-a-while-and-discard equipment. Got to be real gentle with their carts!
good luck, GJ
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If you REALLY DO NOT want to reload, then you should be shooting .38 special guns. All other chamberings - you need to reload to avoid PREMIUM pricing.m GJ
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The Single Action Army design is designed for not much more than 14K psi. .45 auto data runs mostly a lot hotter than that. I keep C45 Spl loads to about 12K psi. We don't need that much power anyway. GJ
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I've had real difficulties with Competition Dynamics timers missing shots when timing through smallish windows in props and especially with long barreled .38 rifles and most .22 rifles. Don't use a lot of other brands of timers. And yes, that is with adjusting sensitivity to a practical maximum.
Also have seen cross-detection of shots when shooting more than one stage on a single bay (like is done at Ben Avery with the wider bays), if the timers are adjusted to high sensitivity for light reports on "my" stage.
good luck, GJ
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I use the boiled linseed oil commercial gun stock finishes on my guns. Either TruOil or Brownells Linspeed. If you have just "straight" linseed oil, it will take very long drying times between coats. If you have Boiled Linseed Oil BLO - it will be faster drying. But when I have to use the BLO, I still modify it a little with some Japan Dryer liquid, which then gets most coats to dry in a day or two. Read label on the Dryer - in other words, follow directions to get the best results.
Hand apply the oils of any type and rub the finish as applied to warm it up, using the palm and heel of the hand. Friction heat helps those oils polymerize and set better.
good luck, GJ
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Zombies certainly do walk the earth!
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Haven't switched, don't plan to since I cast and lube my own cheaper than any vendor sells. Quite satisfied with lube the way it was done back then.
Good luck, GJ
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If the new configuration for the software is set to Status Updates (by default) then that is the WRONG setting. Pick the one that most folks would want as the normal search- I would guess it would be All Content.
I searched directly from the (simple) search box and did not use the Advanced Search screen which is where a user can see (and change) the focus and the content of the search. Since the same simple search box then worked the next day, I believe I encountered something different that what you are describing.
Good luck,GJ
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https://www.midsouthshooterssupply.com/dept/reloading/primers/large-pistol
Something I've not seen for quite a while - standard Fed LP primers on-line and in stock (at least last 2 days).
The LP Mags have been available, but not these standard load primers.
Good luck, GJ
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As well as power factor, there are muzzle velocity limits for rifle and handgun loads. Found in the shooter's handbook.
As your question kind of implies, monthly matches usually will just use eyeballs and ears for guessing if your loads are acceptable. Sanctioned state and above matches should have a chronograph and scale available, because it is possible there will be times where loads need to be measured, not just "guesstimated" to be legal.
We don't have a lot of problems with this now that several major matches got serious about measuring suspected loads several years ago - the lessons learned stuck pretty well.
Good luck, GJ
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Nope, the usual suspects for Casting accessories no longer list it. If I remember right, Midway was where I got the can, ten years ago, that I hardly used because I found it was a very nasty sticky messy flux that did not do a good job. I would suggest that it is no longer being sold because it was never that good in the first place.
I recommend one or more of the following VERY CHEAP fluxes:
1. Wood chips and shavings. My planer makes lots of pine chips quickly from old 2x4's
2. Paraffin wax or better yet, beeswax candle shavings.
3. 2 cycle motor (fuel-mix) oil. Some of the best stuff for bringing dross and dirt up out of a melting pot.
4. 20 MuleTeam Borax. Makes a little bit of a sticky flux if the melt is too hot, and will soak up atmospheric water, so you have to stir it in carefully.
Yes, all of them (except borax) will smoke. A propane torch held next to the pot will let you burn off almost all the smoke.
I've used Marvelux, available from Midway and Brownells, but I find it hardly any better than Buck Beavers, and it tended to accelerate rust on my casting tools.
Good luck, GJ
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Yes, it is a known problem that some lots of at least Winchester 209 and Federal 209A shotshell primers have deep set primers inside the battery cup of the primer assembly. And then (mostly) double barrel shotguns have problems hitting the primer cup hard enough with the firing pins. I've had both Win 209s and Fed 209As fail to get good hits in my TTN hammered double gun (well known for not having a lot of FP protrusion)
Here's a page that shows most of the parts of shotshell primers, with labels. The dark gray section around the primer is the "battery cup". It's made of steel (magnetic) even though it may be plated with copper or tin or nickel.
http://claybuster100.tripod.com/claybuster100sshotshellreloadingpage/id13.html
The manufacturing problem is that the primer cup gets pushed too deep into the battery cup. So the surface of the primer cup is below the rim of the battery cup by a few thousandths. I've had some Federals that have been as low as 0.013" below the rim! Firing pins sometimes don't have that much protrusion, especially on doubles.
So, solutions:
1. Check that tips of firing pins are not damaged or peened and that protrusion is good - this condition causes LOTS of failures to happen from a specific gun, so it's NOT likely for your two SKB guns that both very occasionally have a FTF. That speaks more to ammo problems. So, keep reading.
2. INSPECT for deeply seated primers in the battery cups. If the dome of the primer cup is not level with the rim of the battery cup of the primer, don't load it. If you have loaded it already, don't use that ammo in doubles!
3. Switch to better made primers. I'm now exclusively using Cheddite 209 primers since the primer cup is flat, always (knock wood) made flush with the outer battery cup, and are cheaper as well.
4. Alter the gun or firing pins to give a deeper strike to the primer. With SxS doubles, this can cause the primer to swell back around the tip of the firing pin and lock the gun shut!! Or at least drag against the primer causing gun to be hard to open. So, this "solution" is not often the right thing to do, especially with SxS guns.
Good luck, GJ
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Most shooters DON'T do this particular modification on their own. They let one of our good gunsmiths do it. It usually involves changing the cocking points for both hammers to be a little more in the open position, so the gun hangs open after cocking instead of the cocking springs pushing the gun slightly closed. This sometimes also means the hinge has to be "retimed" to prevent the gun from tearing up the hinge and forearm hangers. It's not just a drop-in part or one single simple "grind this spot right here" operation.
Send the gun off to
Goatneck Clem (above)
Johnny Meadows
Jared at Long Hunter Supply
or one of several other fellers who do good SxS work.
It will be worth it.
Good luck, GJ
Feed issue with 1873
in SASS Wire
Posted · Edited by Garrison Joe, SASS #60708
Lifter looks like it is coming up a little too high - the top edge is well above the adjacent flat cut on the top of receiver. This may be catching the lower edge / face of the bolt by contact with the lifter channel (it has a hole from back to front in it where the bolt runs going forward to chamber the round) A catch here would interrupt forward travel at the position in the picture. To test this, put a little thumb pressure pushing the lifter block down 1/4" while you try to lever. Report back if this helps or does nothing. If this is the case, you may see a bright shiny spot looking down at that channel in the carrier once you remove all rounds. Let us know about the lifter carrier.
good luck, GJ