Jump to content
SASS Wire Forum

Garrison Joe, SASS #60708

Members
  • Content Count

    9,939
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    5

Posts posted by Garrison Joe, SASS #60708

  1. If the first recommendations fail -

     

    First, run a very fine punch through the connecting pin hole in the bolt's connecting block, to make sure ALL the pin came out.  Should see daylight through it.

     

    Get out two water pump pliers or vise grips, and cut a few leather pads to cover the teeth of the jaws.  Rosin applied to leather surface, if you have some.  Slide bolt assembly  as far rearward as possible.  Hold the block part of bolt in one pliers, twist a little on the firing pin extension.  There's a flat on the bottom surface of the tail of the FPE that really lets you get a good grip on it.

     

    At very worst, the FPE gets a little chewed up, but that is replaceable.    But, a good smith will be done before the tools start chewing on metal.

     

    good luck, GJ

     

     

    • Thanks 1
  2. Yes, collectors pay pretty well for old powder cans in good shape.  More than the powder was/is worth.  Check out Gun Broker and other firearms auction sites, eBay, etc.

     

    There are old copies of loading manual s around that have Hi-Vel #2 data in them.   Even well stored, the powder is probably not very usable at this point.  If it smells acidic, bitter, or has odd colors (red, yellow), then it would not be in shape to use for sure.

     

    Here's and example of a load with Hi-Vel 2 from the Ideal loading handbook #36, published in 1949.

     

    For the 30-06 rifle

    150 grain jacketed bullet   45.0 grains Hi-Vel 2 making 2730 feet per second   (note: no further details on the bullet make, nor primer, nor case published with the data).

     

    HV2 was more of a varmint rifle powder than for use in a big game rifle.

     

    Good luck, GJ     

  3. 14 minutes ago, Cowtown Scout, SASS #53540 L said:

    The only thing that doesn't feel smooth on mine is that something seems to want to hang up when I'm dropping it into half cock.

     

    Probably either the half-cock notch has a burr on it, or the fit between sear/trigger is too tight.  It is also quite possible to damage the half cock notch or the sear/trigger tip by pulling the trigger hard enough when at half cock.  This requires replacing or rebuilding the interface between the two.

     

    With the Rossi samples you tried out, you have already found that fitting work on the trigger and hammer at the factory is far from high quality.   (Like many firearms any more - unfortunately)

     

    good luck, GJ

     

     

    • Like 1
  4. There can be several reasons to use poly coated bullets.  Among them the most important to many loaders is much less need to clean lube out of bullet seating/crimping dies and firearm actions.

     

    But to worry about up to 40 thousandths of OAL variance in a lubed-bullet cartridge that is about 1.600" long (2.5% of the cartridge length variance) when we are shooting at targets 10 yards away is wasting effort.  Now, if you put the two types of loads to a test that looks at mean and standard deviation in group size at 10 yards and you find poly bullets will shoot a STATISTICALLY SIGNIFICANT smaller group size in your guns, THEN you have a good decision point.   I find it always makes sense to measure the things that DO matter to your final result (a match score) than to the things that may be easy to measure.  Until you shoot some groups, you really don't know.

     

    But to try to hold pistol ammo for speed work to the same kinds of OAL criteria some might use for precision benchrest or long range rifle work, is making silk purses out of sows ears.  Especially when you have no indication that the length variation affects the ability to hit steel targets.

     

    Putting your effort into practice on shooting and transitions will pay off more handsomely.

     

    good luck, GJ

     

     

     

     

  5. Quote

    Never seen a "Bolt" installed into an SKB action

     

    The BOLT that he talked about was the sliding action locking bolt in the bottom of the action.   That is the common name for a sliding locking bar.  There is a locking bolt in EVERY hinge action gun that lock up on lugs under the barrel, and even on other locking mechanism designs.

     

    What he "installed" was a notch for the bolt to catch on to hold the action open so the cocking levers don't force the action to close and prevent loading the chambers without a hand holding the action open. 

     

    Good luck, GJ

    • Like 1
  6. The original Henry Big Boy centerfire lever rifles without the side loading gate fall apart (literally - they spit out broken action parts) or otherwise are very prone to jamming.   If run VERY slowly and smoothly, they will usually last for a match or two, sometimes longer.  But as soon as the new shooter sees someone run 10 shots in 5 seconds with their toggle link gun or a Marlin or a 92, the new shooter tries to speed way past what the Henry can cycle without damaging internal parts.  And, the tubular magazine loading through removable inner liner and follower is a slow and cumbersome way to load at cowboy matches.

     

    I have seen 5 new shooters come to matches at our own club with a new Henry Big Boy  (none of which have been the new side gate models), and EVERY ONE went home before the match was over in disgust because they tore up their new rifle.   And none came back.  I have seen NO SHOOTER come to any major matches and do well enough to make the awards stand.

     

    Not only are they not the TOP choice, they really are NOT A CHOICE at all for cowboy action shooting games.

     

    I have not seen enough comments on the newer side gate models to know if the same design weaknesses were carried over to those guns.  But at least they got rid of the nasty "plunger loading" magazine tube.

     

    Now, the Henry .22s, that have to move a lot less cartridge, can run very well, and even better with internal smoothing and tuning.  For the price, they are probably a top choice for a .22 lever rifle any more.

     

    good luck, GJ

     

     

    • Like 10
  7. Just about any gunsmith, and lots of parts changers, can put in new 1911 hammers and tune the trigger pull.  One of the simplest jobs going. 

    While doing this, I'd have them put in at least a fresh sear spring and mainspring in each gun.

     

    Would be hard to beat

    Jess Briley

    1230 Lumpkin Rd, Houston, Texas 77043

    (713) 932-6995

     

    Call ahead and see how busy they are.

     

    good luck, GJ

     

    • Like 2
  8. 59 minutes ago, The Original Lumpy Gritz said:

    Volume to weight varies from lot to lot of powder.

    Best to weigh. 

    Case volume never varies.  Better to use volume.  :o

     

    Practically speaking, try both and use what gives best accuracy in your guns.

     

    good luck, GJ

    • Sad 1
  9. Maybe the original owner used dry grass clippings and toothpaste as an action tune-up compound.    Does it smell minty? 

     

    Try rinsing some of that sludge to see if there is hay or straw strands in it.  I could imagine dust and barn chaff combining to fill up the action if it had been a "barn gun."

     

    good luck, GJ

    • Like 1
  10. If using a Lyman powder measure, you have to understand how gravity (and the adjustments) work.   That is, there are three adjustments to internal bars that open up the throat of the measure.  The big, lowest bar has to be open so it's top never sticks out in the throat from under the middle bar.  The middle bar has to be tucked under the edge of the top bar.  Otherwise, the "steps" retain a variable amount of powder on every throw.   When I hear a person say they can't get an accurate weight, that's the first thing I have them check.

     

    good luck, GJ

    • Like 1
  11. As long as you stick with the same brand of Black Powder, the amount of powder will be the same with weighing or volume.  Most folks find a good measure like the Lyman is best, fastest, just as accurate on target as weighing.    As you say, if you need to use drop tube to get as much powder in as you can, you need to use the measure.

     

    good luck, GJ

     

     

    • Like 1
  12. Sometimes inconsistent seating depth is caused by applying no crimp or a very loose crimp.  Then some of the bullets can stick to the seater stem and be pulled out of case slightly.  This will make a longer-than-average OverAll Length (OAL).  Can also happen if you have some brass that is short.  With that problem, there is not enough mouth to the case to have the crimp die press the mouth into the bullet.

     

    OP - you did not specify what DIRECTION your OAL was off.  That is important information for folks trying to troubleshoot over the Wire.

     

    good luck, GJ

  13. Quote

    Hobby lobby wants $35   (for a pencil set)

     

    Went by a Hobby Lobby today.  The cheap set (which works fine) was $10.   I picked up that set as a backup for my other two sets :lol:  Not to put too fine a point on it!

     

    You can do well with just these pencils -

    4B - 6 Brinell - 30-1 lead-tin

    3B - 9 Brinell (great for cowboy, and semiautos below 1000 FPS)

    B - 12 Brinell  wheel weights (Old alloy; modern will be softer))

    F - 16 Brinell - 6 Sb - 2 Sn commercial alloy

    H - 20 Brinell water quench Wheel Weight - about right for moderate cast rifle slugs

    2H - 24 Brinell - water quench 6/2 alloy   - high velocity cast rifle slugs

     

    good luck, GJ

    • Like 1
  14. 4 minutes ago, Warden Callaway said:

    Testers can be bought but they are expensive - even the a Lee.  (And mostly out of stock.)  I just thought someone had developed a test method without buying store bought tools.

     

    Several folks have developed something very cheap.   Search Cast Boolits "lead alloys" forum for testing with drawing pencil sets.   A $20 set from Hobby Lobby or Michaels or other art supply store will test bullets for you for next 20 years.  The set come with different hardness marks.   The Cast Boolits forum gives you a conversion from art-pencil hardness to Brinell hardness.  It's just about as accurate as my Cabine Tree hardness tester.

     

    good luck, GJ

    • Thanks 1
  15. Soft bullets (Brinell 8 or 9) are PLENTY hard enough for our loads.  If you are leading at cowboy game velocities, you are shooting a bullet that is too small and/or lubed (or coated) badly.     Of course, when we shoot a game where accuracy largely does not matter, you can shoot almost any hardness of cast bullets and still be on the steel.  How hard is that?   Still soft enough to scratch a groove with the edge of a fingernail if you press hard.

     

    Now, since commercial casters have to make slugs that will work (no leading) at magnum velocities and pressures - about all they want to cast is Brinell 16 alloy "6-2".  Bullet diameter matching to groove diameter (plus one thousandth of an inch) is about all that you have left with what is available from commercial casters.

     

    good luck, GJ

    • Like 1
  16. Shot in size 9 will work fine.  As close as we shoot targets with shotguns, the pattern will be the size of a saucer, and you will never know the difference from #7.5

     

    good luck, GJ

    • Like 1
  17. RCBS handles are built even better than the 2 mentioned above, and will usually fit Lyman molds. 

     

    Lyman makes two sizes of handles. one to fit 1 and 2 cavity molds, and one to fit 4 cavity molds.  Saeco/Redding handles are out there (very high quality), but fit only Saecos unless you grind on the tangs.  Be aware of what you are buying. 

     

    Looked at Lyman's own catalog on-line

    https://www.lymanproducts.com/mould-handles

    and the picture they show looks exactly like a Saeco handle.   Perhaps they are farming out handle production to Saeco/Redding and ensuring that the tangs will fit Lyman?  I've never had a pair of Lyman handles that look like that picture.

     

    NOE mold handles (Night Owl Enterprises) are also very high quality.  And you get them direct from the maker.  See them here:

    https://noebulletmolds.com/site/

     

    good luck, GJ

     

    • Thanks 1
  18. Quote

    I didn't know Uberti used to make the 1873 in 44 mag. 

     

    But they made so few that few of us have ever seen one.  I would bet at least they used high-alloy steel in the frame and bolt and links.  They use lower-strength (high-carbon only) steels for those same parts in the regular 73s. 

     

    Do NOT expect to run 40,000 PSI like a .44 Mag can in a .357 mag rifle, unless it's a Win 92 or 94 design.

     

    Good luck, GJ

  19. I think you may have read too many old articles about the weakness of an original Winchester 73 action. 

     

    And, there are no maximum SAAMI pressure limits.  There are SAAMI pressure limits.  And proof testing runs a little above that.  You either buy factory ammo and reload to factory ammo specifications (from ANY good loading manual), or you hot-rod past those limits.  

     

    Me, I'd stick to a Miroku built 73 in .357 magnum, currently made under the Winchester brand name.  It would be tested to SAAMI factory .357 magnum ammo levels.  Would be fairly slick right out of the box.  And I'd bet you would hunt with factory .357 ammo for longer than your life expectancy.   And you would have fast, slick, and reliable enough to do the job.

     

    Simple, effective, no futzing with gunsmithing.

     

    Otherwise, yep, I would second the older Marlin 1894.  Before Remington moved the plant and tried making guns with worn out machines and inexperienced labor.

     

    good luck, GJ

    • Like 2
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use.