Garrison Joe, SASS #60708
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Posts posted by Garrison Joe, SASS #60708
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Could be lots of cowpokes hitting the server to find out stuff about EOT! GJ
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Love Norma's brass - which is mostly rifle calibers. GJ
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There of course are differences between a timer holder and a Timer Operator. Laid out one difference above. 😆 GJ
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2 hours ago, Nostrum Damus SASS #110702 said:
By the way, the TO thought only four rounds were shot with the second pistol, but when he asked the counters about it, none of them noticed it so the TO assumed he was mistaken when, in fact, all three counters just missed it.
The TO is responsible for supervising the number of rounds fired. A really good TO could have assisted the shooter by saying "One more!". At which point the shooter would probably have the "light go on" that a P had just been earned. But he could have saved the "round not fired going to count as a miss" penalty by putting another round on any revolver target.
good luck, GJ
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The instructions as printed in the stage instruction sheet seem to me to say exactly what you wrote in the OP. No difference in the target order, the round counts, or the requirement needed to be awarded a bonus.
"A miss cannot cause a procedural" - this "shorthand" rule of thumb is not applicable here. The P was earned by the 9th shot being placed on a target other than the one specified (target #3). When the shot #9 was fired at target #5, that was the P. The "round not fired counts as a miss" is due to the 10th round found in the revolver at the unloading table.
good luck, GJ
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A P when the 9th revolver round did not get shot on the last of the triple-tap targets, and a miss for not firing the 10th round. I'll say no bonus earned for the revolver set, as the bonus could only be earned by firing the tenth round (and that shot hitting the distant revolver target).
So, P and a miss (for round not fired). And only the bonus for the rifle set can be awarded.
good luck, GJ
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Battle Borne grease unless it turns faster than 100 RPM. Used to be Mobil 1 but I like the no-color of the Battle Borne synthetic. good luck, GJ
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Ballistic Products has been about 15% too high on prices since the Old Curmudgeon passed on. IMHO. good luck, GJ
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Will work fine for .38 special and 105 grain bullets. Start with minimum loads published by Hodgdon (aka Winchester powder distributor) and work down to a load that fulfills your wildest dreams. Hodgdon data has a 125 grain cast bullet load with a minimum charge of 700-X of 3.7 grains. I'll betcha that would be a great charge weight for the 105 grain slug, too. good luck, GJ
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1 hour ago, wyliefoxEsquire said:
During the process of pressing the primer into the brass it is important that those three wings are fully set inside the cup.
This is designed to ALWAYS happen if the primer is set to flush, or even better, to 0.003" (3 thousandths) deeper than the case head. Measure to see if you are seating deep enough. If you are not, look for WHY.
If no one else has problems, it's probably something YOU are doing.
good luck, GJ
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5 hours ago, John Kloehr said:
PrecisionReloading appears to be a legitimate company.
I'll guarantee that Precision Reloading is a valid vendor. Really great for shotgun supplies! Have ordered for several years from them, GJ
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Loose shell plate
Mis-aligned primer punch
Brass with tight primer pockets - S&B brass is real bad about this
Brass that has a mil crimp on primer pocket
Dirty primer pockets
Check for all those things. If the spring on the primer seater were causing Federal primers to be seated too shallow, it would do it a lot of the time, not 10% of the time.
But the most likely reason - you are trying to speed up your rifle shooting and you are tripping the trigger when the action is not yet closed. THAT will give light hits 10% of the time (or 20%, or 2% just depends on how poor your "lever first, trigger second" discipline is). Almost everyone who is fairly quick with rifle has hit this pothole. good luck, GJ
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The bottleneck design of all the DASH cartridges also makes chambering more reliable. It's like sticking a refuling probe into the tanker plane's refueling drogue (if you ever in-air refueled). 😄
The chamber acts like a funnel, able to take cartridges with a wide variety of dimensional differences, centering them up as they finish the forward motion into the chamber. Toggle link guns with loose tolerances really benefit from that automatic adjustment of the cartridge positioning during chambering.
good luck, GJ
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I cut a piece of scrap steel to fit over the break, and gas welded things back up. That was 8 months ago, still running strong. But I won't put three other feller's guns in it again and run it over rough ground! good luck, GJ
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Several guns I have restored or had restored to some extent. Most extensive was a CMP rebuild of a 30-40 Krag. Nicer results than I expected, but their work made a great shooter out of a sewer-pipe barrel and rusty spots on exterior.
The ONLY goal I have had on all of those was to make a reliable shooter with factory level accuracy (or better if I got lucky). The few guns that have any family or historic value have not been retouched, just maintained. I don't have a gun that is a "collector piece." They are shooting tools. A wall hanger is just a piece of art, and collects dust in my hands.
But different folks have different goals for their firearms. Satisfy yourself. You'll only hear what your descendants REALLY think if you plant a bug on the coffin.
good luck, GJ
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5 hours ago, Abilene Slim SASS 81783 said:
We can guess at a diagnosis
See several suggestions above for easy to do things to get the point of making an accurate diagnosis. Not a guess, which is often wrong. If those don't get the OP to the point of finding the problem, he needs to let us know what he DOES find out from that work, and perhaps we can suggest more diagnostics. Until he provides real indicators to the part(s) involved with the problem, he should not be even thinking about what to do to fix the problem. good luck, GJ
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Since you are in some part of the Bluegrass state, Lassiter might be a close (and EXCELLENT) feller to tune them hoglegs.
Tom's Single Action Shop New Lebanon, OH 45345 937-687-1039
good luck, GJ
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.45 auto headspaces on the mouth. So it needs about 0.471" so the case stays a little proud of the slug, not making the case mouth disappear by crimping into the bullet! It is very different than a conventional revolver cartridge that spaces on the rim and CAN take a good rolled crimp. good luck, GJ
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My personal load ( which some other folks expressed pain over) is a 200 grain TC bullet, conventional lubes, at Brinnell 9 hardness, over 4.7 grains of WST. Clean, clean, clean and very accurate. Makes 168 power factor every time my 1911 is tested. Takes down every KD target.
(TC is truncated cone, NOT a semi-wadcutter!)
good luck, GJ
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1 hour ago, Go West said:
Check to see if your bullets are crooked in the carrier before you attempt to lever it.
If the rim of the cartridge inside the lifter is cocked to the right (toward loading gate), then you can be running into the Loading Mortise jam. Take a look at the problem and how to fix it by checking this Pioneer Gunworks page:
Pioneer GunWorks Technical Information
and click the article title: Frame Modification for 1866/73 (Round Alignment Fix)
A way to tell if you really have a loading mortise jam is to push the base of the cartridge farther into the loading gate with a stick or your pinky finger. If the lever then operates simply by having pushed the cartridge in the carrier forward, it's a sure sign the frame is not beveled correctly! Happens on a lot of the Uberti toggle link guns.
good luck, GJ
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Take one side plate off, keep that side upward, cycle gun and watch closely until you see what is the "catch in the git-along". Then fix it.
You have not got a real common problem. Watch that your link set does not bind by having the "knee joint" go past perfectly straight.
Watch the tip of the bolt to see if it is colliding with the lifter block as you open the lever. If so, retime the travel of the lifter.
Tell us what you may have changed about the time you started noticing the lever binding. Tell us what non-factory parts and work has been done, Take a real good picture of what the innards look like with the action closed, when it binds just before it opens. Probably we need more clues, and you are the one who has to find them. good luck, GJ
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Dropping the recoil spring to 15 pounds AND the mainspring (in the housing in the lower section of the grip frame) down to 19 pounds lets most 1911's run with easy slide retraction but still enough force to chamber rounds and strip rounds from magazines that are in good shape. Colt factory originals are usually 16 and 23 pounds, respectively. Change both, don't run one factory and one lighter than factory. good luck, GJ
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Conventional (historical within the game) cast bullet load with Win 231 would be 225-230 grain round nose (so called ball) bullet, over about 4.3 grains of 231 to make about 160 power factor. (This is the starting load on Hodgdon's data site by the way).
Seat the bullet so only the rounded part of nose sticks out from mouth, not any of the full diameter bands of the shank of the bullet - the 1911s all have very short "throats" at the end of the chamber, and you can get failures to chamber completely if the full band sticks out the mouth of the case. Taper crimp to just return the diameter of the mouth of the case to about 0.472". This gets rid of any seating bell that you put on the case before seating the bullet.
Either a powder coated slug or conventional lubed slug sized to 0.452". Brinnell hardness of slug between 9 and 11 is best, to prevent the conventional hard cast bullet tendency to lead the barrel due to gas cutting of the base of the slug with the low pressures this load will generate.
good luck, GJ.
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Think .44-40 for rifle. The thin case walls and bottleneck case REALLY keep the action much cleaner.
Only use a 92 action (complex to take down and reassemble) with .45 Colt black powder loads (the dirtiest cartridge) if you are a real masochist and enjoy slaving over the gun. Revolvers - much simpler to maintain with black powder.
good luck, GJ
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Does anyone use a Dillon for Cowboy 45 Special
in SASS Wire
Posted · Edited by Garrison Joe, SASS #60708
YEAH, for a long time. On a Dillon 550.
First - you DO NOT want to run a .45 auto resizer! It's 0.007" too tight and it splits a lot of C45Spl cases during sizing. Extra work on the case that is not needed AT ALL.
Yes, the Dillon .45 Colt expander plug is the right thing for expanding back out to the right size for a slug.
Seat and crimp with a .45 Auto Rim die myself. A .45 auto puts a taper crimp on, and you want a firm roll crimp on the C45S. Another way, usually involving lathe work, is to use a shortened .45 Colt crimp die. The SEATING step can be done with almost any die. It's the CRIMPING part that is finicky. Since I'm on a 550 with 4 stations, and always run a powder check die, I seat and crimp with a single SEATER/CRIMPER die. Made for .45 AR.
Most other die combinations are less than desirable.
I even run a LOT of trimmed .45 Colt cases, because I find the Starline C45S cases have pretty short case life. The cut-off cases work real well and rarely split.
good luck, GJ