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Garrison Joe, SASS #60708

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Posts posted by Garrison Joe, SASS #60708

  1. Vista Outdoors (parent of Federal and CCI and several other firearms related companies) is the conglomerate company that bought the Remington ammunition line from bankruptcy sale and has been producing  ammunition at the existing Lonoke, Arkansas, plant (which Remington built) for several months now.  They have been reporting one of their biggest bumps in the road is getting many of the previous workers rehired and retrained so the plant can step up to full production.  They intend to produce all of the Remington ammo lines, with no immediate plans to change much, and keep the Remington brand alive.  It's good info, but not necessarily "news" at this point.

     

    I've seen estimates that Lonoke being down had turned off about 20% of the total shotshell production in the US 

     

    So, it's certainly not the much-wished for NEW production capability in the ammo business, nor was their restart timing "just because there was a shortage", but it is really good that Lonoke is back in operation. Vista Outdoors has much deeper pockets than the Remington owners had, so they should be able to reach full production and keep it there for years to come, with many fewer feed stock shortage problems, and perhaps even fix some recent quality assurance problems.

     

    good luck, GJ

     

     

    • Like 4
    • Thanks 2
  2. With the big, deep cannelure in the case wall, it is just waiting to split the front half off when fired a few times. 

     

    NOT worth messing with.  Save for a brass collector at a gun show.

     

    good luck, GJ

    • Like 1
  3. I use a Dillon Super Swage on stubborn primer pockets and it fixes them all.    Much easier than a hand held reamer, and about as fast as a power reamer.  I would guess your hand reamer is dull and needs replacement.

     

    First, never load an Amerc case.  So far out of spec that they barely fit in my recycle brass box. B)

     

    In .45 Colt cases, I see the most that need primer pocket help are S&B and Winchester.    In .38 special, it's S&B hands down.  The Super Swage takes care of them all.

     

    good luck, GJ

    • Like 1
  4. Federal has already made public statements that they will continue to produce the Remington line of ammo and components.  I am sure at this point I will be continuing to shoot Remington shotshells for quite a while.   Just picked up a thousand once-fired STS hulls at 6 cents per.  So, I'm covered regardless of Federal's follow through with their statement. 

     

    The Remington made hulls are longer lived and have stronger walls than the Winnies.  The new Win hull design allows bulged rings to form down at the top of the base wad insert of the hull.   I tossed out all my old Win hulls.  It is MUCH easier to NOT mess around with die adjustments that are needed most of the time when changing from one hull type to another!  I even set up two loaders, one for Remington and one for Federal hulls, which I load a few of.

     

    good luck, GJ

    • Like 1
  5. 3.3 grains CleanShot with a light bullet means you are at low chamber pressure.  I am not aware of how cold weather affects CleanShot.  Many pistol powders when loaded in a light load (bottom of recommended range) will get very weak and inconsistent on their burn in cold temperatures.  There's only a few powders I know of that have higher pressures in cold weather - Winchester WST is one.  And Clay Dot is pretty insensitive to cold weather.

     

    So, you aren't going to prove EXACTLY what happened to cause that one squib round.  But you've got some great things to improve your loading techniques already.  I would not continue to water-wash your brass.   If you want to clean off the soot, take an old bath towel, sprinkle a couple of caps of paint thinner on it, dump a hundred pieces of brass on it, and roll the brass in the sagging towel (like bowling balls are cleaned). 

     

    I would not load ammo without my vibratory bowl case cleaner loaded with walnut hull granules to clean up the brass. I sure don't want any range dirt/sand getting into the die bodies and scratching up all my brass.   But the vibratory bowl gets dry cases cleaned up in about 30 minutes- I add a little bit of paint thinner and a used dryer sheet to the bowl to better pull out the soot from cases, and to reduce the amount of dust generated.  Run the bowl at least till all the paint thinner dries up and the media separates cleanly from the brass. 

     

    What you see in the spent primer is, I believe, some unburned powder.  When the primer fired, it generated enough pressure to blow the bullet out into the forcing cone of barrel, and that is enough to force some of the unburned powder back into the primer.  Don't blame the primer - it fired.  Rem primers are just about as easy to fire as Winchester primers.   I think this squib was either a very light powder weight fired in cold weather, or some of your cleaning solution wet down the powder right by the flash hole.

     

    Too bad you are using a Square Deal loader.  It means you cannot put on a low-powder-throw lockout die (like the great one that RCBS has).  I have one of those on all three loaders I run, and those dies have found a light powder drop randomly over the last few years, maybe 1 in every 200 loads.

     

    good luck, GJ

     

     

    • Like 2
  6. What's the problem with an experienced shooter suggesting you might not have got powder in the case?  And you took umbrage at his suggestion?  Did you just wake up one day and find that you load perfect ammo and have done for years?   :rolleyes:    (Actually none of us do.)

     

    What's the load?  I'd guess it's black powder or a sub since you are cleaning with soapy water.  If you are washing with water and it's a smokeless load, don't.  You are wetting the cases for no good reason.

    How cold was it when shooting?

     

    But yeah, a plugged primer flash hole or some water or oil that got into the case during loading.  OR a clog in the powder measure that greatly reduced the weight of powder in that one case.   Again, what powder are you loading, and how are you measuring it, and what is your powder volume check method (mark 1 eyeball, or a powder lockout die or ....)   And what exactly is your cleaning regime?  Have you told us the whole story?

     

    Something a lot of black powder/subs shooters do is deprime cases before a water wash cleaning.  This lets the cleaning step have a chance to work on the fouling in the pocket.

     

    good luck, GJ

     

    • Like 1
  7. All shotshell loaders are a little finicky to adjust.  At least until you really start to develop a sense of how many turns on which die will it take to fix THIS problem.  The 600 Jr actually is a little less trouble since you have a little more access to the adjusting stems and you are running only one shell at a time.

     

    Win AAs are a more flexible plastic than STS and the other Remington hulls.  So they show you that you still have a slight misadjustment in at least one of the three dies.   Crimp starter, crimper or final taper (if you have one, and you should have one).   Most folks find they can put the same load into a Remington target hull as they can a Winchester AA hull without adjusting much of anything.   But if you are on the edge of not adjusted correctly, the Winnie will show you the errors of your ways sooner than the Remington.

     

    You need to develop a sense of how the shell looks when you have proper adjustment of EACH of the dies.   You probably already know what you want at the end of Final Taper.  Looking like a factory load.  But that does not help much when you have two preceding dies and a component stack height to get adjusted right.

     

    Before crimp starter - what you should see is the shot level is just a hair lower than where the rolled edge of the crimp was placed by the factory.  Which on a 12 gauge is about 5/16" down below the uncrimped mouth.  Shot level too high or too low will make forming a good tight, level crimp almost impossible.   Fix the top-of-shot height by a combination of changing out the wad, putting more or less seating pressure on the wad, choosing a bulkier or denser powder, or checking that you really are following a GOOD recipe accurately and without making substitutions that ruin your stack height.

     

    After crimp starter - adjust so the starter brings the petals in to leave you a 1/4" diameter hole open at the top of the cone.   Should look like you could drop a .22 round right down the hole.   Only when you get the starter cone to look right do you adjust the next station.

     

    After crimp die - you want to see a flat crimp surface, which is setting down the thickness of a US dime below the rolled edge (0.050").   You want petals meeting just about at center.  Neither leaving a gap (hole) nor making a severe swirl of the petals.   But, both Winchester and Remington shells over the last few years have been lousy at holding a consistent hull length, which means almost everyone lives with a few hulls that don't close and a few hulls that swirl the petals.  Adjust for average hull looking very good.  If you get ANY buckles or wrinkles in the wall of the hull (about where the collapsible section of the wad is), you have the crimp die setting the flat of the petals too low.   The hull has to go somewhere, so it buckles.  Back off a little on the body of the crimp die and also the center plunger until you get rid of wrinkles.   Severe buckling that is hard to adjust out - probably means you did not get the shot level (stack height) set right back at the "before crimp starter" station.

     

    If you can only get the crimp to go flat, but not recessed down 0.050", you can probably stop for Cowboy loads.  But for clay target shooting, it's better to get the right amount of recess in the crimp.  The amount of recess affects the pressure the load can develop before the crimp opens and the shot column starts moving.  No recess can lead to lower chamber pressures and inconsistent performance.  And also crimps that open up over time and with vibration.

     

    After final taper die - now it should look like the factory load.  About the top 0.050" should roll over with a nice rounded edge that feeds well into pumps and semi-autos, and even feeds nicer into most doubles, too.  Don't use the taper die to try to FIX a crimp or close a big center hole.  You can buckle an almost complete load with a taper die set way too low.   A lot of reloads that don't want to fall into chambers have no or too little final taper applied to the finished round.

     

    good luck, GJ

     

     

    • Like 4
    • Thanks 1
  8. 3 hours ago, Currituck Kid said:

    I plan on stripping the gun down and making sure everything is good. Trimming all brass and basically try everything. 

     

    Certainly no need to go into "headless chicken" mode.   You changed the load to something lighter.  You had a problem with primer back-out.   Your latest change is the PRIME reason you have the current problem.     Otherwise, you start chasing ghosts.

     

    good luck, GJ

    • Like 1
    • Haha 1
  9. Yep, the common cause of a fired case binding up a cylinder is too-light loads. 

     

    You can see and feel a backed out primer - the primer body sticking out above the rest of the surface of the base of the fired case is the giveaway.  If you FORCED the cylinder to turn, you may even have scrape marks on the fired primer where it rotated past the recoil shield.

     

    One chamber can be cut slightly larger than the rest.  Or perhaps got polished at some point.  That chamber would then be more likely to let a case back out when fired. 

     

    A quick way to get back to shooting (if you are SURE your loads are OK) would be to put some fingernail polish on the stubborn chamber and not load it at the loading table.  That would be your empty chamber to lower the hammer onto at the table.  

     

    Otherwise, with light load problems, bump up the powder another half a grain at a time until primers no longer back out.

     

    good luck, GJ

     

     

     

     

     

     

    • Like 1
  10. 8 hours ago, Larsen E. Pettifogger, SASS #32933 said:

     

    Ummm, nope.  That one is for putting a brand new sight on a new rifle barrel.

     

     

    OP needs this one:

    https://www.brownells.com/aspx/learn/learndetail.aspx?lid=13093

     

    And plugging in the revised distance between sights of about 8.25", you would get a taller front sight addition of 0.138"   So, measure existing front sight body and add 0.138" inches or slightly more.   If the front sight on most single action revolvers looks way too tall, you probably are about right to start sighting in the gun.

     

    good luck, GJ

  11. Sounds right.   6" high at 10 yards is WAY off point of aim.

     

    You need a taller sight by 1/8 of an inch.

     

    But often a feller will shoot to a different spot in unsupported position compared to a revolver off a rest.   Before you make a final choice of sights, try offhand as you would shoot in a match.  Yes, it's work to get to a tight group that lets you really see the POI.  But hey, as a target shooter AND a musician, you know hard work pays off.   :P

     

    good luck, GJ

  12. Lighter bullets need MORE smokeless powder also because they provide less resistance (inertia) to force the pressures to peak as fast.  So, powder burn is less efficient with a lighter bullet (because of the progressive nature of the burning of smokeless).  When the powder burn becomes very incomplete, a switch to a faster burning powder is needed as well as an increase in powder weight.

     

    good luck, GJ

    • Like 1
    • Thanks 1
  13. I did not have good results with Tin Star 10 years ago when it came out, and only when I tested it as a lawn fertilizer was I satisfied.  Dirty, not very consistent at lower velocities, and rather expensive.    

     

    good luck, GJ

  14. If you consider a new front sight that can be tapped in with a brass hammer to be a major alteration, then I'll quit (and you can too) right there.

     

    But if you want to PRECISELY know how much taller front sight you need, here's the calculator found at Brownells:.

     

    https://www.brownells.com/aspx/learn/learndetail.aspx?lid=13093

     

    Same result from calculator can also be applied to the rear sight, if it is adjustable for elevation and has room to be LOWERED..

     

     

    As mentioned above, one sure way to get the bullet to hit lower is - a lighter load.   Reduce muzzle velocity.  Now, how much?   Well, that means you need to look at exterior ballistics calculators and perhaps do a few test loads.

     

    good luck, GJ

     

     

     

  15. I too use my 550s as dedicated presses.  One .45 cartridge to each.  Did I mention I hate spending my loading time making die/power adjustments?

     

    Quote

    at horrendous prices

     

    I have broken myself of the bad habit of buying a new gun of a different cartridge than I already shoot during panics.   Or in a newly developed cartridge for the first couple of years.   Eliminates chasing scarce parts around the shooting universe, and saves a ton of money and time.  

     

     

    good luck, GJ

    • Like 1
  16. Quote

    RL550C - 3 weeks

     

    One MORE reason to use a 550!   Simple enough that Dillon can make them fast, fast enough to load all the components you can scrounge.

     

    good luck, GJ

    • Like 3
  17. Depends upon whatcha mean -  "old". 

     

    Two of the best are Browning BSS and Ithaca / SKB 100, 150, 200 series.   Both of which are at least 40 years old now.   

     

    If older, how about the Colt 1878?  :lol:

     

    You will not be even close to the first cowboy to try to find a jewel in old SxS guns that no one else thought of.   The really good models have been picked out of the pawn shops and gun shops long ago.  

     

    If you like a little unusual but very serviceable gun, look for some of the Husqvarna SxS guns - very well built.

  18. Hamilton Bowen would be fantastic.

     

    I'd also trust that Oglesby Gun Works near Springfield IL could do this work. Pretty close by.   (217) 487-7100

     

    good luck, GJ

  19. OK, as in safe and legal?  Yes.

    OK as in fast?  Not up at the top.  Has a large dolls head divider between the two chambers.

    OK as in spare parts available?  Not a great choice.  When it breaks, you probably have to hang it up on the wall.

    Have one, didn't pay a lot, didn't shoot it a lot, would not expect to get a lot for it.

     

    good luck, GJ

     

     

    .

    • Like 1
  20. Well, Accurate can't cut a true round nose design (since they lathe cut molds instead of making cherries).  You may have to "get used to" a flat nose, or switch over to a mold from Night Owl Enterprises (which are every bit as good as Accurate).  They do make some round nose molds. 

    https://noebulletmolds.com/site/product-category/458-460/

    Some of Accurate's designs carry a fairly small diameter flat nose (meplat), however.

     

    I use a lot of Accurate molds, but I don't have a single one in .458 size.   My go-to bullet for BP in .45-70 has been the Lyman 457193.  Four good sized lube grooves and lots of data available for the 405 grain bullet.  Has run 2 MOA or better with a good lube and Goex 2Fg.

     

    But, choosing a real good bullet depends a LOT upon what maximum distance you want to set up for, and what gun you are using.  Sounds like you prefer to throw lots of weight (which for MOST SASS work will not necessarily be beneficial).  Single shots of course can go with as heavy a slug as you want (and can spin), but if you ever want to shove something in a lever gun, you may need to be at the mid range or lighter bullet to get OAL short enough to match the action's capability.

     

    As I am sure you are aware, it's sometimes pretty hard to make a good mold decision just by looking at other folks recommendations - cast bullets being pretty finicky about which gun they want to perform well in.   If you don't want to "fish around" to find a good design, you might be able to find some already cast that you could test run.  Although .458 cast bullets are not widely available, especially in the heavy weights (above 405 grains)..  Chey-Cast has a few selections, lubed with BP compatible lube (including a 530 grain Postell design).

     

    Good luck, GJ

     

     

    • Like 1
  21. Yep, the website was re-directed to Online Outpost just a few days ago.   The Smith Shop site had been filling orders until then  (as I understand, with help from his kid(s)).   The modified lifter for toggle link short cartridges was custom made by Bill, probably upon order.  Does indeed look like existing stock went to Online Outpost.   A sad loss, but a well deserved retirement!    Enjoy, Bill!

     

    good luck, GJ

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