Garrison Joe, SASS #60708
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Posts posted by Garrison Joe, SASS #60708
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I've read weakly-authenticated articles that the Expansion Industries effort in Texas failed, and even read rumors that the undertaking was a ruse or scam.
With American primer production for reloading now apparently getting back on line, I look forward to obtaining Winchester and Remington primers in the near future.
good luck, GJ
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SAAMI specs hold the dimensions of sizing dies pretty consistent between different manufacturers.
Now, the .45 auto (sometimes called .45 ACP) sizer does do a lot more sizing than a .45 Colt sizer does, overworking the case that originally was a .45 Colt (having thicker case walls than a .45 auto). That is why I use a .45 Colt sizer in my die set for the Cowboy 45 Special cartridge, it sizes close to 0.480, not 0.473" OD.
good luck, GJ
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21 minutes ago, Sarge said:
Starline suggested heating the cases up to about 450-475 degrees for 15 minutes.
That was an attempt by Starline to have you anneal the cases. If they told you to put them in an oven to do this, they gave poor advice, IMO. You annealed the case heads as well as the body of the case, softening the case all over. That can lead to case failures at the head with high pressures.
Fortunately, Cowboy 45 Special is designed to be a very low pressure wild cat, so you may never have a case loaded for SASS use that fails with pressure. And also fortunately, there are commercially made case annealers that properly apply the heat needed to anneal cartridge cases without softening the case head.
good luck, GJ
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Different by brand? Only Starline makes C45Spl cases, by exclusive agreement with original commercial developer.
good luck, GJ
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I have many more purchased Starline Cowboy 45 Special cases split than I do old .45 Colt cases which I have cut down. NOT much better to buy, in my experience. And I've been shooting them 10 years now,. All get loaded the same - the Starline cases just do not seem to be properly annealed at factory.
good luck, GJ
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You all know, of course, that it would not take a complete printer-set-up match book to be printed to update a few of the stage instructions. Reprint those pages with the new instructions and pass those out to the PMs and post one copy on the affected loading table for the stage(s). Done. I do COMPLETE 6 stage descriptions for local matches in less than 15 minutes on my ink jet printer. Staple or tape them in match books for the PMs if you have to.
When posse walk-throughs are done the evening before the match starts, there is time to get any revisions printed out and checked, especially when additional notes come from discussions during the walk-through.
good luck, GJ
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Altered instructions given at marshal walk through, since they are not in writing, really depend upon accurate recall by posse marshals at the time of every stage-start over 3 days and in high pressure situations. It is likely that instructions which make actions more restricted than what is in the handbook sometimes get "conveniently ignored." Our posse marshal made sure we followed the revised instructions as presented in the walkthrough.
Perhaps for big matches, final stage instructions as discussed in the walk through should be posted at EACH loading table with the changes which are to be followed HIGHLIGHTED. As well as the posse marshals all provided a revised set of stage instructions before match begins. There were some 35 or so folks in an outdoor setting for the posse marshal walkthrough, with some no longer blessed with perfect hearing. What would you really expect? Time at big matches exists to do this well - we ought to do it.
good luck, GJ
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I shoot early shift on Saturday. I'd offer to pick you up after 11 AM from visitor parking and drop you where you want to set up, if that works for you. Otherwise, ask the shoot for one of the rangers to come get you with a 4 wheeler (cart).
If you want me to shuttle you, PM me for my phone # and provide me yours so we can connect after my early shift shoot.
If you have connections with pards before 11, then a ranger is probably the way to get where you need to go.
good luck, GJ
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Second that load. Light and reliable. good luck, GJ
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Some molds need special care to keep the sprue plate or the blocks at the right temperature for best bullets. Some that I bottom pour need to hit the bevel of the fill hole through the sprue plate. Some need to be poured right down the hole. Some want to be 50- 100 deg F hotter alloy than other bullets cast from same alloy. Some want fan cooling during casting blowing on the blocks. I find each one has different concerns.
GJ
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In the Cast Bullet Association newsletters there are published match results which record the group sizes and awards earned with both bottom pour and hand ladled cast bullets in a variety of guns and calibers. Used to be most of the winners were hand ladling their slugs. Not any more (last 10 years), more of the winners are bottom pouring.
It seems to me there are no consistent accuracy differences. Time savings are pretty large using a good bottom pour pot with accurate temperature control.
Fellow's shooting ability will rule the roost, however.
good luck, GJ
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but I paid my entry fee, same as everyone else
Yes you did. And, consider that on a posse of 15 folks, 14 are spending their time watching (waiting for) one person to repair something. Remember your manners, and put others on as important a basis as your own interests. If they had to pick up 14 times as much brass for you as for other shooters throwing down only 10+4, because you shot a gatling gun, they would not really want to do that, either.
We have already covered that the RULES allow repair on the line done safely, if done with tools you brought with you. Now it's up to the shooter to execute their shooting well and gracefully.
good luck, GJ
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The REAL effective way to get a clean match is to maintain your guns with serious intent and knowledge, and load (or buy) top quality ammo. No one should be holding up their posse tinkering with a firearm more than about twice as long as the total times most folks are shooting, if they want to stay on the good side of the rest of the posse.
Do the rules allow a lengthy on-the-line delay? Yes. But common courtesy does not. Folks come to shoot, not so much to see someone repair a gun.
good luck, GJ
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Just about the most commonly covered powder for handgun reloading. Must be looking at the wrong manuals or under cartridges not well suited to a medium burn rate handgun powder.
Unique is distributed by Alliant. If you are looking at the Hodgdon's loading data site or pamphlets, good luck. GJ
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"Patent drawings of revolver innovations ordered by date of patent granting, from 1769 to 1918"
Not as useful for shooters as full exploded isometric drawings of complete firearms, but at least most of the new technology of each innovation can be seen.
Cool.
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Most cast bullet loads are going to be low enough pressure to still work fine even in a low serial number Springfield.
13 grains of Red Dot and a 150 to 180 grain cast bullet will be a very low pressure load, and pretty accurate for at least a 100 yard target, and if the barrel is in good shape, 200 yards.
I have a 1918 made 1903 model, which is in the serial numbers above the "brittle heat treat" problem, that I shoot with much warmer cast bullet loads than that 13 grain load.
I'd bet that an email to the CMP organization down in Anniston AL would get you a lot of information about the limits of your particular gun. Provide them the serial number and and the numbers and markings off the receiver and barrel.
The info cited just above from the CMP is the best case recommendation for the 1903 receivers that are not in the brittle receiver heat treat group. There are lower pressure limits for the "possibly brittle" guns.
good luck, GJ
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It is an Iver Johnson. The owl on the grips faces forward, has the long cylinder leads and a leaf hammer spring.
Yes, those are all characteristics of a BP Iver Johnson top break. I've got two....and if they get shot, it's only with BP.
They both are slightly loose from previous owners doing just what your previous owner did - shot them with light smokeless loads. Smokeless has a much different pressure curve than does BP - spikes up high and fast.
good luck, GJ
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They certainly are less "adventuresome" than they used to be, when half the pistols they sold were single actions. You will have to call them. They have some Policies on cylinder dimensions, and they may just say, "What you were sold is within specs" GJ
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You need to find FIRST if the top break is modern enough to handle smokeless. Many were built in the BP era and they quickly shoot loose even with light smokeless. Tell us what you have for an iron.
Be aware, we might just have to recommend BP or APP if the gun is old. GJ
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You will be able to start out using typical trap shotshells - say 1 1/8 ounce loads at 1145 FPS or so.
After a short while, you will find that hardly no one shoots that heavy a load in SASS. A Winchester Low Noise Low Recoil load is plenty as a light commercial load. Most folks in SASS reload shells and cartridges.
If you think of SASS games as R&D for really light loads with either smokeless or black powder, you won't be far off.
welcome, and good luck, GJ
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1 hour ago, watab kid said:
is there a good load for 45AR and 45ACP in the cowboy loads
PLEASE do not use ANY .45 auto load data at higher pressure levels in .45 auto OR Cowboy 45 Special cases that are going to be shot in single action revolvers! Many of those guns cannot handle 20,000 PSI safely.
Neither Hodgdon nor Alliant have published cowboy match level loads for the .45 Auto Rim, AFAIK. Nor for the Cowboy .45 Special, or for .45 auto cases used in a few single action revolvers that have a rimless cylinder.
Now, from several years of cowboy load "wildcatting" with the Cowboy 45 Special, I can tell you about 3.9 to 4.2 grains of either Red Dot or Clays with 200 grain cast bullets will give you a pretty safe load in the Cowboy 45 Special case such that it makes about 800 FPS. I do not load 45 Auto Rim, but that probably could use the same range to make consistent loads - but that is all up to you. GJ
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Bullseye, Red Dot, Clay Dot, WST, 700-X, many others. Depends upon what you can find to buy, more important than "one powder would be perfect for everything".
But TiteGroup is commonly available (more than most) and as you know, will work for all of them. And somewhat cheaper since it uses so much nitroglycerin in it (cheaper than all nitrocellulose content). Don't change unless you have a REAL GOOD reason.
good luck, GJ
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38 minutes ago, Fallon Kid said:
On a 1050, a small pocket acp case will go pop when you try to install a large primer.
Yeah, I dislike it strongly when shooters leave that non-standard small pocket brass on a range. GJ
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I run the S&B cases through a Dillon primer pocket swager, and they load forever after that without problems.
good luck, GJ
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What ever happened to that new primer facility in Texas???
in SASS Wire
Posted · Edited by Garrison Joe, SASS #60708
The rumors of financial failure and abrupt layoff of a majority of employees at Expansion Industries site, supposedly from first hand accounts, caught my attention the most. Exp Ind is the firm which the original question was about.
White River Energetics is totally different company, AFAIK. Based in Arkansas, not Texas. Don't conflate them. GJ