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Garrison Joe, SASS #60708

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Posts posted by Garrison Joe, SASS #60708

  1. On 4/24/2021 at 8:40 PM, Waxahachie Kid #17017 L said:

    Reading a rule book, may, or may not, answer the "why" of a matter. It may only state what is allowed. 


    And I (and many others I'm sure) are quite glad the whys of the rules are NOT in the rule books.  They are too long as it is to be either committed to memory or quickly accessed.


    good luck, GJ

    • Like 1
  2. Lots of recycling of lead bullets is done on some SASS ranges.   Copper, zinc, aluminum and other metals that dissolve in lead alloys are not conducive to reclaiming the lead cheaply.


    Cost of frangible ammo is usually much higher than lead bullet loads, too.


    So, not only against rules, but costly and non-recyclable too.


    good luck, GJ

  3. When I shoot BP (Goex FFg) in .45 Colt cases, I drop 22 grains of Black, then enough ground activated charcoal on top of that to be able to get a little compression when I seat a 200 grain bullet.  Even a 170 grain bullet is plenty.  Use one that has large lube grooves and fill those grooves with a good BP compatible bullet lube.  Most bullet lubes are NOT very suitable for use with true BP.  If you don't want to hunt all that down, order pre-lubed black powder slugs from Springfield Slim



    or Desperado Bullets.



    Why the activated charcoal?  It never packs into a tight wad like cereals (grits, cream of wheat, etc) even whn stored for 5 years.  It's a component of BP already (charcoal is the carbon component of BP),  It has no chance of having sand in it like some lizard litter does (lizards don't care if there is a little dirt in their litter tray).  And you can buy it on internet or large pool supply because it is a water filter part.


    But it IS much easier to shoot shortened 45 Colt cases, known as Cowboy 45 Special, that Starline produces.   Just drop in about 20 grains of BP there, and stick on your slug.  That case was designed for shooting steel targets.  Whereas the .45 Colt case was designed to shoot horses out from under the Army's opponents in the 1870s.


    good luck, GJ



  4. BP is a lot more versatile than smokeless powders.  It works as well in .410 as in 10 gauge.  The pressure curve never gets very high.   The guidance that Slim has given will work well for you, too.    You will burn up hulls pretty quickly.  So, lay in a supply.  


    Yes, loading BP in shotshells is a lot different than smokeless powder.  GJ

    • Like 1
  5. On 4/24/2021 at 8:11 AM, bgavin said:

    IMR Red is also a promising powder, but seems to get very little love, as it is still "new" on the market in 2016.


    Not new any longer.  In fact, Red and the other IMR color dot-clones (Green, Blue, Target)  have officially been announced as "production ceased"   I agree Red was a great powder, and perhaps even a better performer than Red Dot.  But, IMR ended production of those powders back in February (or so), and they join some other great IMR powders on the trash heap of the powder industry, like 4756, 4759, 7526, PB, 800-X, etc.


    good luck, GJ

    • Thanks 1
  6. Filling of any "empty" space that a heavy load can shift into is what REALLY makes a solid packing job.  It's not the weight itself, it's the motion that the heavy items go through.    That's why plastic grocery bags are a horrible packing material.   They are just about all air!   They move, they compact down, they are slippery, and they don't hold even what little air they might start with.  Use cardboard scraps cut to make a stack that fills the empty spaces around your item, then wrap strong shipping tape around the stacks.  Or window sealing expanding foam.   Or screw your item down to a base board - that keeps it from moving and building up momentum when the box gets tossed around.  Lots of ways to do it well.  Almost no recovery possible if you don't take the time to get it right. 


    It really is the SHIPPERS TOTAL RESPONSIBILITY to do a great job of packing.  No one else can affect the outcome.  And only the buyer is going to give a rat's patootie about the results.


    good luck, GJ

  7. 1 hour ago, Goody, SASS #26190 said:

    I read his question as being for all shooting, not SASS, not on the range.


    So did I.   And since I don't get out to everyone's sand pit plinking spots, but I do shoot on several public and even some private ranges, my "survey results" came mostly from seeing what folks are shooting on rifle and pistol ranges of all types.


    Kinda hard to compare centerfire ammo to rimfire ammo volumes, unless you can get the ammo manufacturers to give you production numbers, which right now they are particularly "shy" about providing.  CF brass gets picked over pretty quickly, so you really have to see it hit the ground.  RF brass goes largely to trash cans, if picked up at all.



    SASS .... it has to be 30/30 Winchester


    Umm, almost NEVER even shot for SASS matches, let alone left behind after shooting.



    good luck, GJ

    • Like 1
  8. Don't know where you got info about .243 Winchester popularity, but .223/5.56 ammo outsells ALL the other rifle ammo, and 9 MM outsells all the other handgun ammo currently.


    good luck, GJ



    • Like 4
  9. Some clubs will.   Many clubs won't mess with such mixed matches.   Lots of reasons not to, hope you can figure out most of those yourself.   


    Why don't we try to grow Wild Bunch rather than shrink both cowboy and WB? 


    Or, you could favor the clubs that do mix them with your presence, money and time.   IE, vote with your match involvement.  If enough do, you might get wishes come true over time.


    good luck, GJ

    • Like 2
  10. 13 minutes ago, Rex M Rugers #6621 said:

    I am about motivated to anneal some of my 44 Special brass and see if it helps enough to be worth the effort. My 73 is well gunked by the fifth or sixth stage.


    Probably would be useful for keeping your rifle action cleaner.  good luck, GJ

  11. 8 hours ago, Chief Rick said:

    I understand the difference between an AE and non-AE rifle, but not the significance.


    Angle eject allows one to use a top-of-receiver mounted scope.   That's about it.


    good luck, GJ





  12. Yep, some benefits will be seen.  Especially because .45 Colt rifles all seem to have oversized chambers that allow lots of blowback. If you have blowback problems, anneal.  Or load heavier.  Annealing to prevent case failure is kind of a waste of effort until you get to splitting 5 to 10% of your cases every time you fire them.  Especially if you can buy new brass at 20 centavos each.


    Any general proclamation of goodness or badness of loading practices, gun choices, what underwear you wear to win championships, etc. can be "proven" to be correct or incorrect depending upon the situation you personally are in.   Make good choices and be satisfied you are close to your personal optimums.  When you are proven hopelessly wrong, be willing to adapt. 


    good luck, GJ

  13. The web site as they first posted it up had none of the "guarantees" of a well-designed business, and many signs of a cyber scam. 


    Here's what is needed for a web-based business site to look legitimate.  Anything less is a warning sign in the cyber security world, which I know something about.


    Physical address

    Point of contact information, including a business phone

    A business logo

    Advertising by other methods than just an email message (which is essentially free)

    Referrals by folks you know


    None of those "conventional indicators of a legitimate business" were available at the time that the OP posted his questions about the site.


    Perhaps I do know the principals.  But they haven't identified themselves yet on this post nor put any of those indicators on their web site yet. 


    They seem to be delivering orders to their early customers.  Which is a good sign.


    So, that's about the last of my free business or customer cyber-protection consulting that I need to offer.   :lol: 


    good luck, GJ





    • Like 1
  14. Chinese, huh.


    Chinese firing pin retainer nut is tapered, so I find a "slit" nut driver socket fits better than most.  I took a 9/32" nut driver socket, ground down the outside to get it into the boss around the nut, and with a hacksaw sliced down about halfway into the socket, putting the cut on the nut opposing "corners."  This gives me a socket that better fits the tapered nut, and is self adjusting.  In metric, an 8 mm socket, IIRC.   Has worked for me for 15 years now.


    good luck, GJ



  15. Also note that 1st and 2nd models don't "bolt lock" the cylinder.  The hand presses the cylinder so that the lock bolt sits against the flat end of the latch cut.  That means the trigger has to be pulled without backing off pressure during the stroke. 


    The 3rd Models drop the latch bolt into the transverse slot and locks the cylinder when it's aligned with the barrel.


    For pocket pistol side match, you may never notice this.  When the early models get included in main matches and shot by pards not familiar with the gun, they may be less than enthusiastic with their trigger pull, and fail to keep cylinder rotated fully.  The cylinder is "free-spinning" when the trigger is not applying pressure to the hand, too.   So, pulling a 1st or 2nd model over a table top can roll the cylinder off of the position where you expect it to be.


    good luck, GJ



    • Like 1
  16. The Iver Johnson top Breaks that were made for BP only have a cylinder latching lead-in cut that is long, like the picture of the blued IJ above.  Their smokeless era top breaks have the shorter cut, like the nickeled S&W in the picture from HH.  Perhaps the easiest way to tell for the IJ guns.   Since their model labeling scheme is rather complicated.


    If original gutta percha grips are on the gun (never swapped out with replacements), the owl on the top of grip is also an indicator.  Owl looks at cylinder for BP era guns (1st and 2nd Models).  Away from cylinder for 3rd Model.   But, grips are VERY often not original on lots of the guns you will run into, since they break easily.


    Here's some pics from Goforth's book.


    Good luck, GJ


    IJ top-break made for BP.jpg

    IJ top-break made for Smokeless.jpg

    • Thanks 1
  17. 16 hours ago, 9245 said:

    probably have to hand load though to get those.

    Nope.  B&P makes commercial 2.5" shells.  I used to keep those on hand for my 97s, then I snipped the mag spring down to let 6 in the mag tube.  Believe there are other manufacturers (think British, like GameBore) that also make 'em.


    good luck, GJ

  18. I do have problems with some lots of Federal 209A primers being hit by my TTN shotguns.  After I put in a set of SlixSprings pins in one of them, that TTN has not found a lot which has failed to fire.  Put a flat edge across the primer face - if you find a big gap, be careful with that lot of primers.  Or use the Winchester or Cheddite primers, which have much flatter faces that seem to be easier for the factory to control the seating depth of the primer cup within the battery cup (outer steel shell) of the primer assembly.


    good luck, GJ

  19. Asking WHY for SASS rules is usually an exercise in frustration.  Unless you personally are going to be writing rules for the sport, it really doesn't matter much.   The use of Model 97s is because the SASS cowboy action shooting decided to allow Model 97 pumps into that game early on (and only 97s), and lots of potential WB shooters already had one or more of them.   IAC 93/97s hybrids were allowed in to allow the enlarged loading port.   Model 12s were allowed in because it was in the WB movie, after all.    Others were not.  Buy that way, shoot that way, enjoy the sport. 


    Save other shotguns for other uses.


    good luck, GJ

    • Like 1
    • Thanks 2
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