[Landrun site, has it already crashed???]

Well, sounds like the on-line payment processor was very slow.  If you have no control over the reliability and responsiveness of that function, then you could separate the payment processing (which is not a time-critical function, as long as you get the money in the next week or so, who really is hurt by a delay getting the credit card charge done?) from the match reservation and the RV slot request.   Then folks could be referred to the payment processor with a link to hit at their leisure.  If they ignore paying, after some amount of days you have an automated registration "cancellation" (or even a manual email telling the shooter - sorry, no payment received by deadline).

 

Think of where the problem spots are in the process and fix - that's how improvement happens.  GJ

['73 Winchester problem-need help]

I'd agree there was probably either a high-pressure event or an OOB that sheared the firing pin extension cross pin.  Something should have been noticeable as that occurred.  Any damaged brass or sharp recoil or loud report?

 

So, 2 videos of a very floppy trigger, and still you don't have any spring tension against the sear/trigger.  Find that cause.  Does that spring have normal force downward on the shelf of the sear?

 

Sometimes it is helpful to assemble the three parts (trigger, sear, hammer) on the top surface of the frame laid on the workbench, and push the trigger and hammer pins (or some even longer drill-rod of the same diameter) through the parts so you can examine their fit and function is correct.  Does the trigger nest properly with the sear, and does the sear "tip" fit properly against the hammer?  If the sear tip has been broken off so it does not catch on the hammer's full cock notch, that would be cause of a trigger won't set and hammer will fall when cocked situation.

 

good luck, GJ

[Landrun site, has it already crashed???]

So, is it better to serve the 800 or so shooters, or a staff person running the match?

[Landrun site, has it already crashed???]

Ah, the problems that happen when a large amount of heavy-processing traffic (like electronic payment) tries to hit a non-commercial web site that has not been built for high traffic, just because the club decides to do a "Land Run" (all folks stampede at once to get to the resource) sign-up technique.  Aptly named, BTW. 

 

Could be why EOT and Bordertown still use the two-step process of publishing the registration form at a given time, then having users MAIL IN the completed form.   No load really gets put on the host web site, but instead on the post office, which is staffed for large volumes (of a thousand applications) coming in.  And it prevents the "rushed" completion of applications and forgetting to mark the Wild Bunch match on the form (see another thread) because shooters are trying to get registered "by rushing their work".

 

good luck, GJ

['73 Winchester problem-need help]

Lever is coming right back against the lower tang, so it does not appear to have been bent (open) due to an Out of Battery discharge.  

 

I'd look carefully at how your trigger and sear are installed.  You definitely have no trigger spring (VTI part # 19) tension right now, so either the spring is badly bent, broken or the trigger/sear/hammer parts are not installed correctly with the tip of the trigger leaf spring pulling down on the back of the sear/trigger.  

 

I also see no trigger safety bar sticking out of the lower tang!  Have you removed that part?  Or, if it is still installed, is it jammed so the safety bar cannot get into "locked" position?

 

A photo taken looking down on the trigger, sear, safety bar would be useful - but you have to pull the buttstock, mainspring and the lower tang off to see in that area clearly.

 

good luck, GJ

[Play in progressive tool head?]

I don't have any crushed cases, misaligned bullets, or other notable problems using my Dillon 550s run exactly as the manufacturer designed them.  No problems detectable in cowboy shooting, at least, shooting fast at large targets set close.   Reading and applying a few experimental techniques from high precision or long range shooters seems overkill for our game - wasted time and effort that has no pay-back.  I need more live fire time.

 

Now, for long range rifle, I load on a more precise turret press, but I get no where near doing all the work of a Precision Rifle Shooter.

 

good luck, GJ

[Proper Tension For Extractor on 1873 Rifle]

Tension I use is about 8 pounds on a trigger pull gauge pulling up on the tip of the extractor while mounted in the bolt, using a small loop of wire to connect the gauge hook and the tip of extractor.   With bolt open far enough that the nose (tip) will clear the barrel relief cut for the nose of extractor.

 

Now, that's the precise way.  What works good enough for me is to open the bolt so your finger tip can pull up from under the tip, putting pressure right into your finger tip.   If the extractor lifts up higher than the top of the bolt and it does not really hurt your finger tip, you don't have enough tension any more.

 

But, as said above, the most common problem is the fouling that builds up under the leg of the extractor, and the tip can not lower itself far enough to fully seat over the rim.  Check that visually with a dummy round or fired round.  If fouling is light, it can usually be flushed out with a spray can of gun solvent and the "straw" that came with the can, while you pull up the extractor up to open the gap.  If heavy, then you have to knock out the extractor holding pin and clean out the groove the extract sits in.  (Requires removing bolt from action - major disassembly).

 

Some folks need a "bolt holding block" to hold the bolt for punching out that 1/16" diameter pin (as well as a good steel 1/16" punch.  I can do it just putting the bolt in a brass jaw vise.  It is a fiddly bit of work replacing and fitting (lightening) a replacement, so you may want to seek out your gunsmith to do this job.

 

I find on my main match guns I replace the extractor after about 3 years of hard use.  GJ

[Black Powder shotshells.]

1 hour ago, Dutch Wheeler said:

Don't you find, that the alcohol eventually evaporates and changes the ratio and cleaning ability of PAM?

Nope.  The H2O2 (hydrogen peroxide) does break down WAY sooner than the alcohol evaporates.   I just make a new batch.  Make maybe a cup of solution at a time.  Lasts fine in a spray bottle at least a couple of weeks! 

 

I get dry skin in the winter, and even with working man's hand lotion used often, I get cracked fingertips.  What do I treat those cuts with?   Hydrogen peroxide to boil out the cut until it doesn't hurt.  Then super glue to coat over the cut to let is heal without getting deeper. 

 

Maybe I just ought to use PAM for a hand lotion...😆

GJ

[Uberti 73 dust cover ball]

Work inside a bead-blasting box or a large cardboard box that will help catch flying loose parts you can't afford to lose!  GJ

[The Miracle of Tig]

When you get good enough to do this quality of TIG ing, let me know and I'll send you some work.  GJ

[Cleaning Brass. Finally...]

Cannelures have been applied by the factory during the loading process.  They do NOT cannelure brass that is sold unloaded, and many times the factory only applies cannelures to specific loads they make.  Sometimes factories claim the cannelure helps hold the bullet in place.  Other times, especially where they applied more than one, they say they applied the cannelures as an identification between different loads they make. 

 

I have had a few .38 special cases split around the cannelure ring, breaking off the front end of the case in the chamber.  Lots of these were nickeled brass cases, which have the property of cracking faster than brass cases.

 

So, in .38 spl, I would not use them in rifle loads.   Could cost you several rounds not fired.    Pistol - meh, I'll use them for local matches or practice. 

 

In .45 Colt, the cannelures (Winchester cases, often made particularly deep and sharp) have never been seen by me to cause a crack.  Case walls in .45 Colt are lots stronger.

 

good luck, GJ

 

 

 

[Black Powder shotshells.]

9 hours ago, Garrison Joe, SASS #60708 said:

PAM is equal parts of

Just as I wrote earlier 🙂

 

Ballistol works, I just don't care for the cost or the smell.

 

good luck, GJ

[Black Powder shotshells.]

I like PAM solution for cleaning BP residue, it's cheap and wife won't complain about the smell.   PAM is equal parts of

* hydrogen peroxide (drug store)

* rubbing alcohol (same)

* Murphy's oil soap (ditto, or a store with household cleaning products)

 

Make small batches, store in the empty peroxide bottle with a label "PAM's magic"  - that will make the wife wonder.

 

Nothing there to harm a gun.  Cleans better than soapy water, and leaves a vegetable oil residue behind prevents rust and is kind to wood stocks, too. 

 

Barrels with BP fouling need a 5 minute wetting down  before running a patch through the barrel. (I keep a small spray bottle with PAM in it, even take that to the range for a mid-shoot cleanup if desired).

 

A couple of 1/4 pieces of paper towel push any moistened fouling out the muzzle, and one wetted towel finishes the barrel cleaning.  Easier than smokeless!

 

PAM also cleans greasy stove tops and counters better than most anything else!

 

As for load, about 40 grains of BP is plenty, and 1 or 1 1/8 ounce of shot - stretch that expensive powder as far as you can.

 

good luck, GJ

 

 

[Titegroup for Shotgun]

Titegroup is fine as a shotgun powder....several folks here used it for light 12 gauge loads years before Hodgdon finally qualified it as a shotgun powder and ALSO labeled some of it as High Gun, likely because they were concerned all the nay saying they had done over the years would hurt trying to sell TG as a shotgun powder now...

 

good luck, GJ

[Uberti 73 dust cover ball]

Just put a new copper plated #4 steel shot pellet in my main match gun!  Last one went to Mars. GJ

[Roll crimping .45 Cowboy Special & Auto Rim]

Yeah, that Redding would be great if you want to keep the seating and crimping steps separate and do a roll crimp.  I use an RCBS .45 Automatic combination seater/crimp die myself, taper crimp. Have used a roll crimp at one time, but find with a fast smokeless powder in the C45Spl, I do fine with a strong taper crimp.

 

Several pards have cut off an old .45 Colt roll crimp die - easiest with a small lathe, but with some work hand tools will "cut it".

 

good luck, GJ

[Uberti 1873 help]

45 minutes ago, Bowtie747 said:

I’m afraid this gun won’t last long

 

Uberti 73 clones can run for 20+ years of hard shooting when they get a tuneup before you start using them.  They can also have a VERY sweet trigger, but that is something few folks in cowboy shooting even worry too much about, since they are slapping the trigger real quick.

 

I have one I bought in 2005 and it still runs GREAT.  Probably 40K cowboy rounds through it now.  I maintain it carefully and replace a FEW parts over the years, I would not shoot anything else for cowboy matches.

 

Almost ALL of the guns used in cowboy shooting are machined and assembled with very little tuning and fitting.  They are kit guns, really - machined and assembled with minimum trained labor.

 

So, our cowboy guns at the store ALL feel rough and hard to run.  Let Lassiter work one over for you and you will think he substituted another firearm for yours - that much difference in speed, feel, and longevity.  The factory puts heavy springs in and does very little fitting and polishing.  A good tuneup replaces most of those springs  and fits and polishes the rough and tight spots.  

 

good luck, GJ

[Starline 45 Cowboy Special]

FOR THE RECORD -

Starline made a mistake typing up the web page.

 

I have even scolded them about it in the past, and they did not take up the opportunity to correct their web pages.

 

Here's to Adirondak Jack!  GJ

[BP Shotshell Question Anyone use a powder baffle (or a bottle with built-in baffle) on a Mec??]

Several PETE bottles have threads that fit a MEC measure assembly.  1 liter soda bottles work well, I hear.  The bottle has to be put on and taken off with measure assy tipped back.

 

It would be worth buying a new MEC bottle JUST to use with black powder (or sub) so as to make possible switching from black to smokeless quick and easy.  Without having to wash out the BP salts.

 

Then you could save the baffle-attached bottle for smokeless.

 

good luck, GJ

[BP Shotshell Question Anyone use a powder baffle (or a bottle with built-in baffle) on a Mec??]

BP is larger grain size than smokeless, and tends to resist packing.  Besides, a shotshell has pretty stable ballistics even with varying amounts of powder in the shell.

 

A baffle will just be a hindrance, even IF you can get the powder to run through it easily.  

 

I've never used one loading BP shotshells.  GJ

[Question about fillers for 45 Schofield rounds]

Yep, I find I need about 0.008" (8 thousandths) barrel to cylinder face gap for running 6 stages without having to hose down the cylinder face.

The 3 thou that Ruger likes to have on Vaqueros, for example, is just too tight for BP loads.   And, opening the gap did not have any major downsides in accuracy for smokeless loads.

good luck, GJ

[Question about fillers for 45 Schofield rounds]

Your loads did not substitute enough of either filler to make much difference in the recoil.  Drop down to 15 grains of Black and you will feel some difference.   That then will take maybe 12 grains of filler to eliminate any air space.

 

Good charcoal is what is ALREADY IN black powder.   Unless  you used some very poor quality charcoal, there is no way the use of charcoal as a filler will cause extra fouling problems.  I shoot .44-40 and .45 Colt cases with about half BP and half activated charcoal, layered, and get no extra fouling.  Now, if you ground up cheap BBQ briquettes, that stuff has a bunch of sand and other garbage in it.

 

I'd betcha it's not the filler that is locking your cylinder, but the barrel/cylinder gap is too small.  And also pay special attention to using a GOOD BP lube, and plenty of it. 

 

I too am a fan of Cowboy 45 Special cases.  I cut old .45 Colt cases down and they last a LONG time.

 

I'm sure you can solve this if you try some of the simple stuff.   GJ

 

[Uberti 73 failure to extract]

Quote

I could not push the bolt any further forward.

So, that tells you something besides links that are not "long" enough is causing your problem.

 

As you push the bolt forward, look down at the extractor tip and the cartridge support tab tip.  See if one of those is jamming into a part of the action or barrel which stops the forward motion.  In order for the bolt to make full travel, the bolt face has to come within about 8 thousandths of an inch (0.008") (or closer) from the rear of the barrel (the breech) back of a cartridge case.  Without the bolt having full travel forward, the extractor may not hook over the rim, and the fired case (or an unfired round) will not be extracted.  As well, the firing pin may not be hitting the primer hard enough to set it off.

 

About time to get the gun to a smith for a close examination.  This could be caused by a number of root causes, and with what I can read of your level of experience with the 73 action, you may hunt for a long time.

 

good luck, GJ

[Taylor 1873 Firing Pin Extension]

42 minutes ago, Tall John said:

could it be the depth I’m priming my cases? 

 

Never seat primers intentionally HIGH, or any deeper than flush or a couple of thousandths of an inch below the top edge of the primer pocket.  Then you don't have to worry about feeding/chambering high primer cases, or crushing the priming pellet in the primer, or about a good Firing Pin not being able to set it off.    So, NO,  high or deep seating are never a good idea.  Fix the gun to work with flush-seated primers! 

 

Your gun can be fit with a slightly longer firing pin by a good gunsmith, or even can be DIY if you know how to file to the proper FP protrusion and shape, IF that is what is needed.  But check your hammer(main) spring tension first - it's just an adjustment.

 

good luck, GJ

[High quality SASS double shotgun?]

I have an Ithaca NID - it's not a cowboy match suitable double.   IMO.  It's well made, for a gun made in the 1930s.  Doll's head projects between barrels (so a little slower to load), heavy, stiff action, and where's any spare parts?  Parts will have to be made, and few smiths will want to do that. 

 

good luck, GJ