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Posts posted by The Original Lumpy Gritz
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Get ahold of Outlaw Gambler
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JB, very good post
Hopefully, ALL club TG's will see this.
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Drop the hammers and store it.
You might want a couple spare firing pins.
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I liked it
TNX
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Check the city laws of where you will ship to.
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1 hour ago, Skiddsteer1 said:
Yes, they have the lock inside the grip area. Thanks.
Get rid of the locks.
I formed a #10 fender washer to fit where the lock was.
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2 hours ago, Wild Eagle said:
I run 14# wolf springs in mine. They reliably set off Federal, Winchester, and Fiocchi primers. If you want to run CCI primers, you'll probably need to stick with the 17# factory spring to set them off. My 14# springs only work on the CCI primers about 1/2 the time. While you're in there changing the hammer spring I would recommend going to a 30 oz trigger spring too. After that run the guns for a couple of thousand rounds and then decide what, if any, additional work you want to have done to them. Rugers usually don't need too much work to be competitive in SASS. The only other thing I have done to mine is go to a Super Blackhawk hammer, and added the sure hit wrap around brass front sight.
They come with a 30oz trigger return spring from the factory
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55 minutes ago, Eyesa Horg said:
Pound
Well, DA
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1 minute ago, slow poke gear said:
We are going make a trip to lee shavers place to get the sight for the sharps
Where are you located.
I'm in SW, SGF, Mo.
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56 minutes ago, Skiddsteer1 said:
PS I have a set of New Model Vaquero's so one would think I know the difference. Thanks.
What's a "LB" mainspring?
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3 hours ago, slow poke gear said:
The shoot we are looking at has knock down buffalo targets. Not planing on shooting for group size
What sights are on the Sharps?
You want Soule type for easy windage and elevation.
Also, a Hadley Eye Cup is good to have.
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2 hours ago, Larsen E. Pettifogger, SASS #32933 said:
The honest answer is no one can tell you the answer to your question. I just tuned a pair of NMVs for a Chronicle article. One was a nightmare. The other was easy. Just a few things that can impact mainspring selection. A - firing pin protrusion. B - the fit of the tail of the pawl (the part sticking straight down) to the gripframe. What length strut and what spring seat the gun has - I or H. G are Longhunter 15 pound springs. The one on the left for I and the one on the right for H. AND depending on how much friction your gun has you can use the shorter spring to get a lighter hammer pull in a gun with the I springseat. F is a Shotgun Boogie spring that I was able to use after adjusting/eliminating some key friction points.
Springs are cheap. Buy several and try different springs with the primers you want to use and adjust until the gun fires reliably.
Curious, as to what the issues were with the problem version.
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39 minutes ago, Skiddsteer1 said:
The guns say New Ruger Vaquero's and nothing else. They are not New Model Vaquero;s.. They sat around un-fired for a few years. Thanks.
Do they have the lock inside the grip area?
The factory hammer spring is 17lbs.
The factory trigger return spring is 30oz.
Folks refer to them as New Model Vaqueros.
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1 minute ago, Skiddsteer1 said:
Lumpy, these are not NMV's. They are NRV's. Thanks.
NRV?
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1 hour ago, Skiddsteer1 said:
I have a new set of consecutive New Ruger Vaqueros. I want to shoot duelist with them. I have plenty of Federal and CCI primers. Obviously I wish to reduce the hammer pull. I have 3 sets of Wolff main springs. 17,18, & 19 lb. Which should I use? I would also like a recommendation on who could work on these revolvers for me. Thanks.
Bet you ordered old model Vaquero springs.
NMV come with 17 lb hammer springs.
Order directly from Wolff and ask that the springs be pulled from the same lot run. This will keep them equal....
Do some research and maybe call Wolff Gunsprings.
https://www.gunsprings.com/RUGER/SMALL+FRAME+(XR-3)+SINGLE+ACTION/cID3/mID52/dID229
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7 hours ago, Artemus Von Schutze said:
2F, I started with a brass powder measure that worked fine (like for muzzle loaders). Compression die is awesome, can be made from Lee die and plug from track of the wolf. If you are casting, you might look at the Lee 405 HB mold. SPG lube. If you get the mold and want the most fun version, go for a Springfield trap door. You guys are welcome to try mine. It might be taller then Jed....
I don't know that I would even consider a primer card, but using a 3/32 drill bit to oversize the flash hole would be good.
Lots of us use a over primer wad of paper at the bottom of the case.
Montana Vintage Arms makes a fantastic powder measure.
Always 'listen' to your target.
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Just now, slow poke gear said:
He has a 74 sharps (iab manufacturer)
I am looking at a rolling block possibly.
200 to 500 yards I anticipate.
Get rid of that IAB.
Can't get any parts for them.
You want a barrel R.O.T. of at least 1/18.
Do not use smokeless powder bullet lube with BP.
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Better choices than that 405.
Look at Postell and Creedmoor profile.
Load with black until you compress the powder about 1/8" when the bullet is seated.
What do you call long range?
What rifle are you looking at?
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Those bbl rings are not good.
I would see what a target a 25 yds sez.
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I want one
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DONE
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Not rust!
Copper fouling from test firing.
Your gun is made of stainless steel.
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1 hour ago, Skiddsteer1 said:
In fact, with all of your help, in the 14 years I have owned this rifle, it has never run better. I am electric. Skid.
Best of news.
I do suggest you look into a 1 piece firing pin.
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Lead casting bullets
in SASS Wire
Posted
For BPCR, most use a 1/16-1/20 tin/lead mix.