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  1. LOL! "Spring," as in "Primavera," as in the season of "Spring"...pretty clever.
  2. I talked with Dwayne, the Guru at Ruger. He said that New Vaqueros do not all have the same grip frames, but they do all have the same internal parts and mechanisms, even when there may be subtle differences in the peripheral dimensions of the grip frames. So, Dwayne said that all New Vaquero springs should be the same, if the revolver is categorized as a New Vaquero model. So, the New Vaquero springs at Wolff should fit my model. If I were going to order springs though, I would provide Wolff, Power Custom, Longhunter, or whomever...with my specific grip frame designation before ordering, just to be sure. On another note, lets say you're interested in new grips for your New Vaquero, the online standardized designation of XR-3 for the New Vaquero isn't alway accurate. Dwayne said that it's likely that if you order new grips based on the generalities you read on the web about New Vaqueros, they may not fit without needing to be altered because not all New Vaquero grip frames have the same peripheral dimensions. Dwayne said that Altamont makes all of Ruger's grips, and if you want new grips, you should provide them with the exact grip frame part number, they can cross reference it, and you'll be sure to get grips that fit properly.
  3. Ok, you guys have me convinced...I give in, LOL! I'm gving up on the welding cart. I was an Eagle Scout, and must be prepared!
  4. Yeah, I shouldn't have to, but it seems like it's about the only way I may be able to get an straight answer.
  5. Case in point... I inquired with Ruger Customer Service as to the grip frame designation based on the serial numbers of my New Vaquero revolvers. Here is their response: "The grip frame designation for both of these firearms is KMVQ00301." Oh, that was helpful!!! LOL!
  6. Yes, I do plan to talk with them...thanks for the recommendation, it didn't go unnoticed. I did visit their website, and they're selling Wolff hammer and trigger springs for the New Vaquero. But, talking with them will be one of my next steps in hopes they can recommend a working solution. Ruger most definitely is contributing to the problem, almost to the extent that it appears that they've planned to do it on purpose, as though it's some kind of strategy to keep the end user and gunsmiths at a distinct disadvantage. I notice that Ruger has established a Custom Shop Service. Could it be they're protecting their Custom Gunsmithing business through "smoke 'n mirrors" marketing tactics?
  7. I also sent an inquiry to Ruger Customer Service and asked them the hammer and trigger spring factory spring tension specs for the New Vaquero. They replied as follows: "The standard Main Spring (Hammer) that is in all Single series revolvers, Blackhawk, Super Blackhawk, and New Vaquero has a working weight of 20-25 pounds. The Trigger Return spring has a working weight of 1-3.5 pounds. This isn't the weight you feel on the hammer and trigger because they are working as a levers." If they are working as levers, isn't it logical to assume that the felt weight would be less than 20-25 lbs. on the hammer spring, and 1-.3.5 lbs. on the trigger spring? If that be the case, it doesn't seem logical that changing the hammer spring out to around 19lbs., and the trigger spring to 30 or 40 ounces (1.87 to 2.5 lbs.), would be beneficial. I can test the actual trigger pull on the revolvers with a trigger pull gauge, but not sure if there's a way to test for actual hammer spring pull-back weight, other than trial and error.
  8. They're Model #5159s, .38/.357, New Vaqueros... The selection of springs is more confusing with respect to Ruger Single Action Revolvers than other brands. To illustrate, I inquired directly with Wolff this afternoon via email about which springs they recommend, and I gave them all the details of the revolvers involved. They recommended part numbers for springs they claim will fit my revolvers, but also stated "unless my revolvers have the (smaller) XR-3 grip frame." According to my research, the current manufacture New Vaqueros, since serial number prefix "510," all have XR-3 smaller grip frames, certainly compared to the Old Style Vaqueros, and they also have a unique internal locking hammer mechanism design. Mine have a serial number prefix of "513." This is the problem when selecting springs for New Vaqueros. Even the experts (Wolff) are off with respect to what will work properly in a New Vaquero revolver. I brought this to Wolff's attention in a followup email this afternoon, and I'm still waiting for an answer, which will probably be coming tomorrow. I just don't want to waste money on springs that all look virtually alike, but are wrong, and more importantly, I don't want to waste time putting springs into the revolvers that won't improve the action, and could even possibly create a dangerous or damaging situation.
  9. Can anybody provide me with the links to various replacement spring sets for the Ruger New Vaquero Revolvers. I've checked Brownells, but I'm a little confused by what they have to offer when they lump Anniversary Blackhawks and New Vaqueros together. Plus, my preference would be to lighten the hammer spring tension to around 19oz, rather than to the 14 oz. hammer spring tension offered in the Brownell's kit. I'm not sure what would be best for trigger spring tension either...In that same kit, Brownells offers a 30 or 40 ounce spring in the kit on their website. The spring tension Brownell's offers of 14 oz. just seems a little too touchy to me. I want to lighten the New Vaquero hammer and trigger spring tensions, but I don't want the revolvers going off when the wind blows. Brownell's also offers just a hammer spring kit with three different tensions for the hammer, but I don't see a separate kit for trigger spring tensions. Being a newbie, I'm open to advice about which spring tensions for the hammers and triggers are best for CAS. I would sincerely appreciate reading varying opinions on the topic, and getting some links, or contact information thatI can check out with respect to various brands of spring/hammer tension kits for the Ruger New Vaquero.
  10. Got the axle for the new welding cart attached with small spring loaded hinge pins I had in the barn that I sometimes use on tractor accessories. Not sure it will work as well as a different kind of hinge pin, but so far it seems to work well.
  11. Quizcat

    Average cost?

    What got me started thinking about the Rugers needing to be tuned was this You Tube video, which concentrated mostly on Colt SAA and Ruger SAA revolvers. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AW_nYCgPsgQ&t=36s I didn't have time to watch the whole video yet, since it's about three hours long. But, after having watched about an hour of the video, it illustrated to me areas where the Rugers, as production-line revolvers, probably need some attention to make them run smoother, and tighter for accuracy, even though the gunsmith in the video admits the Rugers are probably the most durable and desireable of the CAS production line revolvers right out of the box. Anybody know the name of the gunsmith, and/or the gunsmith's shop, that 's affiliated with the video? I think he must be located in Missouri, where I live, based on things he mentioned in the video that suggested he is located in Missouri.
  12. Quizcat

    Average cost?

    Yep, you've been payin' close attention. I should have been more specific. I ship handguns via USPS Flat Rate, usually under about $25.00, insured, What I really should have asked is for some referals to some gunsmith's that specialize in CAS, and about what to expect as far as cost. I have enough experience as an FFL over the last 40 years to know better than to take it to just anyone claiming to be a "good gunsmith." I have my own "good gunsmiths" pegged for most things, but I think this CAS stuff is kind of a specialty. There are too many "gunsmiths" that hang out a shingle that wouldn't be qualified to address CAS tuning. I figured I would be wisest to inquire with the guys that are really into CAS, and have had the experience of having their guns tuned...the guys on the Wire came immediately to mind. I'm thinking I'll start out with the Ruger #5159, KNV34FD New Vaquero 357/38spl, Talo, 4-5/8" barrel, Stainless, with the short/wide hammer spur. But, they're still made on a production line, need to be tightened up a bit, springs, polishing, etc...for smoother, and tighter function. I figured maybe I can send them off to be tuned while I'm recovering from surgery. I'll check into Cowboy Gun Works, thanks!
  13. Quizcat

    Average cost?

    What's the average cost to send off your revolvers to somebody that has a widely known skilled reputation for tuning SAA revolvers for CAS competition?
  14. I did order one of these carts from Harbr Freight yesterday. I fully expect to have to beef-up this cart based on the reviews I've read at Harbor Freight, but overall the design seems like it will be a good base to start from. Some have commented in the reviews that in addition to problems with tire inflation, the axle only has end caps. Apparently, the axles aren't drilled/cotter pinned, so the wheels can fall off easily as is. But, no big deal, I can drill the axles on the drill press, and cotter pin them. Some don't like the apparent flimsy box in back, but that can be better supported by adding a couple of braces, no big deal. Some complain about the quality of the bolts, screws, etc...I don't know about most guys, but when I am putting stuff together, I usually replace all the hardware with Stainless anyway, especially if I think there might be a corrission issue. IMHO, using the cart for a welding cart, havng to transport heavy tanks, would be much more demanding than I envision the cart needing to be for transporting a couple of guns and enough ammo to get through a stage or two of shooting, and no big deal even if you do have to run back to the car for ammo to participate in subsequent shooting stages, rather than piling too much ammo onto the cart with respect to it being excessive weight for the cart.
  15. Yes, saw those too...thanks! I notice too that there are guys using these for outboard motor stands with just real slight modification, adding a thick board to the frame to clamp the motor to.
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