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  1. They're Model #5159s, .38/.357, New Vaqueros... The selection of springs is more confusing with respect to Ruger Single Action Revolvers than other brands. To illustrate, I inquired directly with Wolff this afternoon via email about which springs they recommend, and I gave them all the details of the revolvers involved. They recommended part numbers for springs they claim will fit my revolvers, but also stated "unless my revolvers have the (smaller) XR-3 grip frame." According to my research, the current manufacture New Vaqueros, since serial number prefix "510," all have XR-3 smaller grip frames, certainly compared to the Old Style Vaqueros, and they also have a unique internal locking hammer mechanism design. Mine have a serial number prefix of "513." This is the problem when selecting springs for New Vaqueros. Even the experts (Wolff) are off with respect to what will work properly in a New Vaquero revolver. I brought this to Wolff's attention in a followup email this afternoon, and I'm still waiting for an answer, which will probably be coming tomorrow. I just don't want to waste money on springs that all look virtually alike, but are wrong, and more importantly, I don't want to waste time putting springs into the revolvers that won't improve the action, and could even possibly create a dangerous or damaging situation.
  2. Can anybody provide me with the links to various replacement spring sets for the Ruger New Vaquero Revolvers. I've checked Brownells, but I'm a little confused by what they have to offer when they lump Anniversary Blackhawks and New Vaqueros together. Plus, my preference would be to lighten the hammer spring tension to around 19oz, rather than to the 14 oz. hammer spring tension offered in the Brownell's kit. I'm not sure what would be best for trigger spring tension either...In that same kit, Brownells offers a 30 or 40 ounce spring in the kit on their website. The spring tension Brownell's offers of 14 oz. just seems a little too touchy to me. I want to lighten the New Vaquero hammer and trigger spring tensions, but I don't want the revolvers going off when the wind blows. Brownell's also offers just a hammer spring kit with three different tensions for the hammer, but I don't see a separate kit for trigger spring tensions. Being a newbie, I'm open to advice about which spring tensions for the hammers and triggers are best for CAS. I would sincerely appreciate reading varying opinions on the topic, and getting some links, or contact information thatI can check out with respect to various brands of spring/hammer tension kits for the Ruger New Vaquero.
  3. Got the axle for the new welding cart attached with small spring loaded hinge pins I had in the barn that I sometimes use on tractor accessories. Not sure it will work as well as a different kind of hinge pin, but so far it seems to work well.
  4. Quizcat

    Average cost?

    What got me started thinking about the Rugers needing to be tuned was this You Tube video, which concentrated mostly on Colt SAA and Ruger SAA revolvers. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AW_nYCgPsgQ&t=36s I didn't have time to watch the whole video yet, since it's about three hours long. But, after having watched about an hour of the video, it illustrated to me areas where the Rugers, as production-line revolvers, probably need some attention to make them run smoother, and tighter for accuracy, even though the gunsmith in the video admits the Rugers are probably the most durable and desireable of the CAS production line revolvers right out of the box. Anybody know the name of the gunsmith, and/or the gunsmith's shop, that 's affiliated with the video? I think he must be located in Missouri, where I live, based on things he mentioned in the video that suggested he is located in Missouri.
  5. Quizcat

    Average cost?

    Yep, you've been payin' close attention. I should have been more specific. I ship handguns via USPS Flat Rate, usually under about $25.00, insured, What I really should have asked is for some referals to some gunsmith's that specialize in CAS, and about what to expect as far as cost. I have enough experience as an FFL over the last 40 years to know better than to take it to just anyone claiming to be a "good gunsmith." I have my own "good gunsmiths" pegged for most things, but I think this CAS stuff is kind of a specialty. There are too many "gunsmiths" that hang out a shingle that wouldn't be qualified to address CAS tuning. I figured I would be wisest to inquire with the guys that are really into CAS, and have had the experience of having their guns tuned...the guys on the Wire came immediately to mind. I'm thinking I'll start out with the Ruger #5159, KNV34FD New Vaquero 357/38spl, Talo, 4-5/8" barrel, Stainless, with the short/wide hammer spur. But, they're still made on a production line, need to be tightened up a bit, springs, polishing, etc...for smoother, and tighter function. I figured maybe I can send them off to be tuned while I'm recovering from surgery. I'll check into Cowboy Gun Works, thanks!
  6. Quizcat

    Average cost?

    What's the average cost to send off your revolvers to somebody that has a widely known skilled reputation for tuning SAA revolvers for CAS competition?
  7. I did order one of these carts from Harbr Freight yesterday. I fully expect to have to beef-up this cart based on the reviews I've read at Harbor Freight, but overall the design seems like it will be a good base to start from. Some have commented in the reviews that in addition to problems with tire inflation, the axle only has end caps. Apparently, the axles aren't drilled/cotter pinned, so the wheels can fall off easily as is. But, no big deal, I can drill the axles on the drill press, and cotter pin them. Some don't like the apparent flimsy box in back, but that can be better supported by adding a couple of braces, no big deal. Some complain about the quality of the bolts, screws, etc...I don't know about most guys, but when I am putting stuff together, I usually replace all the hardware with Stainless anyway, especially if I think there might be a corrission issue. IMHO, using the cart for a welding cart, havng to transport heavy tanks, would be much more demanding than I envision the cart needing to be for transporting a couple of guns and enough ammo to get through a stage or two of shooting, and no big deal even if you do have to run back to the car for ammo to participate in subsequent shooting stages, rather than piling too much ammo onto the cart with respect to it being excessive weight for the cart.
  8. Yes, saw those too...thanks! I notice too that there are guys using these for outboard motor stands with just real slight modification, adding a thick board to the frame to clamp the motor to.
  9. What are they called? Sorry, I tried a search on Amazon.com and couldn't seem to find them.
  10. I like the looks of the wood framed cut-outs for rifle and shotgun, but it seems like I could get started just transporting the long guns on the cart in their protective cases, and bungy the cases to the frame. When I read some of the reviews on the Harbor Freight Welding Cart, the biggest complaint was the pnuematic tires not holding air. Has anyone had a problem with that? Of course, the wheels could probably be replaced with hard tires, they run around $37 each at Northern Tool, but I'm wondering if there is something I can spray into the tire tube that would fill the air space in the pnuematic tires that come with the cart, virtually turning the pnuematic tires into hard tires, instead of having to worry about tires deflating. I guess I could bring a bicycle pump with me to meets, but that seems like an inconvenience.
  11. Lots of room for ammo too!
  12. Thanks for the recommendation to look at a welding cart. I never really considered that until reading your post. This one looks interesting, costs around $50.00, but it does weigh about 30 lbs, maybe a little too heavy, not sure? If this is the model you purchased from Harbor Freight, how do you like it for weight? I do like the large wheels, a feature that others have mentioned that would allow the cart to roll nice and easy over uneven ground. Seems like it would be pretty easy to clamp some ATV long gun holders on the frame, another good recommendation, and those would be lite. It already has a tray on the back, which according to the specs, will hold up to 35 lbs. (of ammo). I assume you can wear your revolvers in their respective holsters on your gunbelt, unloaded of course, and you wouldn't necessarily need a cart for those, although if you built a lock box for them on the base, you could secure revolvers there instead of wearing them.
  13. I like that cart...seems nice and transportable.
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